Mabie  House,  Rotterdam,  N.  Y. 

The  oldest  house  in  the  Mohawk  Valley. 

Built, in  1680. 


The  Mohawk  Valley 


Its  Legends  and  Its  History 


By 

W.  Max  Reid 


WITH    ILLUSTRATIONS    FROM    PHOTOGRAPHS    BY 


J.  Arthur  Maney 


4- 


NEW  YORK  AND  LONDON 

G.  P.  PUTNAM'S   SONS 

^be  ftntclierbochei;  press 

1901 


Copyright,  igoi 


W.  MAX  REID 


Ube  ftnicfierbocfier  press,  Tlew  ^otb 


^ 

^ 


^ 


t 


TO 
CHRISTINE 

WHO  HAS  GIVEN  THE  SYMPATHY  AND  ASSISTANCE 

IN  THE  PREPARATION  OF  THIS  VOLUME 

THAT  ONLY  A  LOVING  DAUGHTER  CAN  OFFER 

THIS  BOOK  IS  DEDICATED 


195303 


PREFACE 

THE  Mohawk  Valley,  with  its  stirring  scenes  connected 
with  the  French  and  Indian  wars  and  the  War  of  the 
Revolution,  has  been  sadly  neglected  by  historians 
and  writers  of  fiction.     Yet  within  its  borders  have 
been  enacted  tragic  events  and  heroic  endeavors  that  helped 
materially  in  crowning  with  victory  the  efforts  and  sacrifices 
of  the  patriots  of  the  Revolution. 

There  is  no  section  of  pleasant  valley-land,  of  lake-and  for- 
est-dotted wilderness,  of  rushing  streams  and  cultivated  fields, 
east  of  the  Mississippi,  that  surpasses  in  its  wealth  of  scenery 
this  bit  of  the  Empire  State,  It  is  natural  that  such  a  land 
should  be  rich  in  romance  both  legendary  and  historical. 
From  Schenectady  to  Rome,  every  town  has  its  romantic 
story  of  the  early  wars;  every  bit  of  woodland  has  its  wealth 
of  prehistoric  legend.  The  book,  after  all,  is  only  a  written 
record  of  oft-told  tales.  But  such  tales  hitherto  were  widely 
scattered.  Some  are  familiar  to  every  American  boy  who  has 
read  TJic  Last  of  the  Mohicans  and  its  companion  stories ;  some 
may  be  heard  from  the  lips  of  gray-haired  citizens  of  many 
villages,  who  retell  the  tales  their  grandfathers  told  them  of 
frontier  fights  and  Indian  massacres;  and  the  musty  archives 
of  every  Valley  town  have  their  own  story  of  war  and  sacrifice 
and  the  struggles  of  early  border  life. 

This  work  deals  with  the  period  embraced  between  the 
years  1609  and  1780.  Many  characters  of  national  interest 
figure  prominently  in  the  book,  and  its  illustrations  have  been 


vi  Preface 

carefully  selected  so  that  the  reader  may  not  only  read  of,  but 
see,  the  more  notable  landmarks  that  remahi. 

In  compiling  this  work  I  have  become  indebted  to  many 
individuals  and  many  publications  for  information  received, 
and  take  this  opportunity  to  gratefully  acknowledge  assistance 
from  the  following-named  persons  and  documents: 

Augustus  C.  Buell,  W.  M.  Beauchamp,  A.  N.  Ruttenber, 
John  Fiske,  Prof.  E.  N.  Horsford,  Gen.  John  S.  Clark,  Gil- 
bert Wemple,  A.  R.  Grider,  Hon.  Stephen  Sanford,  Cyrus  B. 
Chase,  Washington  Frothingham,  Rev.  W.  E.  Grififis,  W.  L. 
Stone's  Life  of  Sir  William  Johnson,  Beers's  History  of  Mont- 
gomery, B.  J.  l^ossxngs  Field-Book  of  the  Revolution,  Colonial 
History  of  Nezv  York,  Doctunentary  History  of  Neiv  York, 
Francis  Parkman,  Gen.  James  Grant  Wilson,  Prof.  Jonathan 
Pearson's  Schenectady  Patent ;  J.  Wynne,  S.  J.  ;  David  Hutchi- 
son, Library  of  Congress;  Reuben  Gold  Thwaites'  Jesuit  Re- 
lations;  Victor  Hugo  Paltsits,  Lenox  Library;  New  York 
State  Library,  F.  W.  Halsey,  and  a  large  number  of  friends 
that  want  of  space  will  not  permit  me  to  enumerate. 


W.  Max  Reid. 


Amsterdam,  N.  Y. 

Oct.  21,  I  go  I. 


CONTENTS 


I- 

II- 

III- 

IV- 

V- 

VI- 
VII- 

VIII- 

IX- 
X- 

XI- 


-The  Mythical  City  of  Norumbega 

-The  Mohawks 

-Journal  of  Arent  Van  Curler 

-ScHONOWE  OR  Schenectady     . 

-Immigration     and     Settlement     of     the 
Palatines        


-Queen  Anne's  Chapel 

-Count  Frontenac  and  the  Mohawk 
Valley    

-Sir  William  Johnson 

-Guy  Park  and  Fort  Johnson 

-In  the  Old  Town  of  Amsterdam   . 

-The  Last  Battle  between  the  Mohawks 
AND  Mohicans,  The  Famous  Butler 
Mansion 

XII — Johnstown,  New^  York 

XIII 


XIV- 
XV- 


-SoME  Accounts  of  the  Notorious  Butler 
Family 

-Legend  of  Mrs.  Ross 

-The  Joseph  Brant  of  Romance  and  of  Fact 


I 

5 

19 
49 

77 
84 

98 

113 
123 

155 

181 
193 

21 1 
240 

^59 


viii  Contents 

CHAPTER  PAGE 

XVI — Incidents  Rel.\ting  to  the  Early  His- 
tory OF  Amsterdam  and  the  Mohawk 
Valley 275 

XVII — Canagera,  One  of  the  Mohawks'  Castles     298 

XVIII — Early  Industries 321 

XIX — Old  Indian  Names  and  Sites— The  Legend 

OF  Little  Falls 344 

XX— Canajoharie — The  Hills  of  Florida         .     376 

XXI— Oriskany 411 


ILL  USTRA  TIONS. 


Mabic  Ho7ise,  Rotterdam,  N.  Y.     .       Frontispiece 

The  Oldest  House  in  the  Moha^ok  J'alley.     Built  in  1680. 

The  Primitive  Mohazvk  Valley      .... 

The  Rocky  Walls  of  the  Canajoharie     . 

O71  the  Road,  Crauesville,  N.  Y.  ( Ad-ri-21-che ) 

A   Valley  By-Road  and  the  Yantaputchabei^g 

Kinaquarone  (  Hoffmans )     ..... 

Old  St.  George  s  Cluirch,  Schenectady,  ly S9 

Interior  of  Old  St.  George  s,  Schenectady,  ly^g 

The  Old  Glen-Sanders  House,  Scotia,  ijij    . 

Door  in  the  Glen-Sanders  House  . 

The  De  Graaf  House,  Beukendaal 

The  A  rent  Bradt  House,  JVoestyne,  i/j6 

The  fan  Mabie  House,  Rotterdam,  1680 

On  the  Old  Mohazuk  Turnpike 

The  Old  Queen  Anne  Parsonage,  Fort  Hunter,  iyi2 

Queen  Anne s  Alohazvk  Communion  Plate,  ly  12 

Falls  on  the  South  Chuctanunda   . 

The  Juchtanunda,  Amsterdam 

Sir  William  fohnson,  Bart.,  I'/i^-iyy^ 


7 
15 
25 
31 
35 
51 
55 
59 
63 
67 

71 

75 

79 
Sg 

95 

lOI 

105 
1^5 


X  Illustrations 

A  Window  in  the  Old  Chui^ch  at  German  Flats 

An  Attic  Coi'-ner,   Glen-Sanders  House,  Schenec 
tady        ....... 

The  Attic  Window,  Old  Fort  JoJinson  . 

An  Old  Colonial  Mansion,  Guy  Park,  Amsterdam 

^7^3 •  • 

Old  Fort  Jolinsorc,  Mount  Johnson,  Akin,  1^42 

A  Fireplace  of  the  Olden  Time,  Old  Van  Alstyne 
HoiLse,  Canajoharie,  ly^o 

Map  of  Schenectady  in  i6g^ 

Winter  on  the  Evcs-Kil  Road,  Cranesville   . 

Interior  of  Old  Croot  Mill,  Cranesville 

The  Dooj'way  of  Old  St.  Marys   . 

CiLrious    Windoiu,     Old    Ehle   Ho2(,se,    Nelliston 

^752 

On  the  CJuLctanunda,  West  Gakuay 

Old  St.  Mary  s.  Blue  Corners 

Sunset  in  the  Mohazvks  Land,  Tribes  Hill    . 

The  Butler  House  on  Siuitzer  Hill,  1743 

Caughnazvaga  CJitLrch,  Fonda,  176J-1S68     . 

The  Old  Stone  Fort  at  Johnson  Hall,  Johnstozvn 
lySj       ....... 

Johnson  Hall,  Johnstown,  iy6j    . 

St.    Johns    ChurcJi   and   Grave  of  Sir    William 
Johnson,  Johnstozvn,  .V.   }\ 


Illustrations  xi 

Page 

The  Old  Johnstown  Jail,  i'/y2      ....  20^ 

The  Court  House,  Johnstown,  ly/z       .         .         .  21^ 

Along  the  Mohawk 22 j 

The  Druinm  House,  Johnstown,  ijdj  .          .          .  2j/ 

The  Black-Horse    Tavern,   Younglove  Ho7nestead, 

Johnstown,  lyS —  ......  2§j 

Joseph  Brant  ( Thayendanegea )    ....  260 

Church  at  German  Flats      .....  26J 

hiterior  of  Old  Dutch  Church  at  German  Flats  .  26g 

The   Old   Van  Alstyne  House,   Fort  Renssalaer, 

Canajoharie,  ly^o          .....  2^/ 

The  Old  Academy,  formerly  a  Stage  House,  called 

"  Globe  Hotel,''  Amsterdam,  N.  Y.          .          .  28^ 

The  Old  Stone  Kitchen  at  Wemfs         .         .         ,  jo/ 

The  Ancient  Burial-Ground  at  Wemfs         .         .  jo/ 

The  Road  through  Wolf  Hollow  ....  jiy 

The  Road  to  Galway  ( Hagamans)       .         .         .  j2j 

An  Old  Deserted  Home,  West  Galway  .  -331 

Tekakwitha  Spring,  Fonda  .....  j^y 

The  Falls  of  the  Cariajoharie         ....  j^i 

Adrintha  Falls,  Cranesville           ....  j^j 

Moss  Rock  at  the  Foot  of  the  Rapids,  Little  Falls  j6i 

The  Ragged  Rocks  at  Little  Falls          .          .          .  j6^ 

On  the  Tow-Path,  Little  Falls      ....  j6(^ 


xii  Illustrations 

Page 

The  Old  Aqueduct,  Little  Falls     ....  j/j 

The  Old  Frey  House,  Palatine,  lyjg     .         .         .  syg 

The  Peter  Ehle  Ho2tse,  Ncllistou,  iy^2           .          .  j8j 

Brant's  Church  at  Indian  Castle,  lyOj          .          .  jSy 

The  Home  of  General  Herkimer,  Danube      .         .  jgi 

The  Old  Scotia  Bridge  ......  jg^ 

The  Oriskaiiy  Monum,ent      .....  /fij 

Oriskany  Battle-field,  East  Side  of  Ravine    .          .  421 

The  Oriskany  Battle-field,  with  Remains  of  Old 

Wood-Road  in  the  Foreground       .          .         .  42"/ 

The  Old  Pulpit  in  the  Church  at  German  Flats   .  ^jj 

The  Oriskany  Battle-field     .....  ^.^g 

Guard  Lock — Site  of  Queen  Annes  Chapel           .  441 


THE  MOHAWK  VALLEY 


The  Mohawk  Valley 

Chapter  I 
The   Mythical   City  of   Norumbega 

IT  may  seem  strange  to  readers  of  a  book  that  purports  to 
be  a  history  of  the  Mohawk  Valley,  that  the  author 
should  go  so  wide  afield  as  to  connect  it  with  a  mysteri- 
ous country  a  thousand  miles  away  and  whose  exact 
locality  is  unknown  to  this  day.  Undoubtedly  the  mythical 
city  of  Norumbega,  together  with  the  equally  mythical  North- 
west Passage  to  India,  was  an  incentive  to  early  navigators,  to 
visit  the  shores  of  the  New  World  and  to  explore  its  eastern 
coast.  Mystery  and  the  marvellous  is  even  now,  at  the  be- 
ginning of  the  twentieth  century,  attractive  to  the  majority  of 
mankind,  but  how  much  more  so  in  the  sixteenth  century, 
with  the  imagination  quickened  by  the  discoveries  of  the 
Spaniards  under  Cortez  and  Pizarro  and  the  wonderful  treas- 
ures secured  in  Mexico  and  Peru. 

That  the  northeast  coast  of  America  was  visited  by  Bre- 
ton (1504)  and  Basque  fishermen,  in  search  of  fish  for  the  Cath- 
olic countries  of  Europe,  before  the  discovery  and  naming  of 
the  St.  Lawrence  River  by  Jacques  Cartier  in  1534-5,  is  a 
matter  of  history,  and  that  they  should  have  made  temporary 
homes  on  the  shores  near  their  fishing  grounds  seems  natural, 
and  that,  in  some  cases,  it  became  necessary  to  protect  their 


2  The  Mohawk  Valley 

camps  by  rude  forts,  more  or  less  strong,  seems  reasonable. 
We  are  therefore  inclined  to  believe  that  there  may  be  some 
truth  in  the  traditionary  French  (Breton)  fort,  said  to  have  been 
located  on  an  island  near  Albany,  many  years  before  the  voy- 
ages of  Henry  Hudson. 

The  land,  river,  and  city  of  Norumbega  seems  to  have 
been  known  to  nearly  all  of  the  early  navigators  of  the  Atlan- 
tic, and  the  incentive  for  many  a  quest  by  Verrazano  in  1524, 
Alleforce  under  Roberval  in  1543,  Thevet  in  1556,  and 
Champlain  in  1603-14. 

And  is  it  a  wonder,  when  such  a  story  as  the  following 
was  told  and  believed  : 

An  Englishman  had  left  a  record  of  having  seen  a  city  bearing 
the  name  of  Norumbega,  and  the  city  was  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
long. 

This  man,  David  Ingram,  a  sailor,  had  been  set  on  shore  by  Sir 
John  Hawkins  in  1568,  at  Tampico,  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  with 
some  hundred  and  twenty  others  in  stress  for  food.  He  had  wan- 
dered all  the  way  across  the  country,  visiting  many  large  Indian 
towns,  and  coming  at  length,  in  1569,  to  the  banks  of  the  Norum- 
bega. He  sailed  from  the  harbor  of  St.  Mary's  (one  of  the  earlier 
names  for  Boston  Bay)  a  few  hours  distant  from  the  Norumbega  he 
visited,  and  ultimately  got  back  to  England,  where  he  again  met  and 
was  kindly  received  by  Sir  John  Hawkins.  He  told  a  story  that 
surpasses  belief.  He  had  seen  monarchs  borne  on  golden  chairs, 
and  houses  with  pillars  of  crystal  and  silver.  He  had  visited  the 
dwelling  of  an  Indian  chief  where  he  saw  a  qicart  of  pearls;  and 
afterwards  increased  it  to  a  peck  of  pearls.  He  was  brought  in 
audience  before  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert,  the  kinsman  of  Sir  Walter 
Raleigh.  Thevet  who  had  been  at  Norumbega,  on  the  banks  of 
what  he  pronounced  "  one  of  the  most  beautiful  rivers  in  all  the 
world,"  was  present  and  confirmed  Ingram  in  part." 

Whittier,    in   his  poem   "  Norumbega,"   makes  the  weary 

'From  monograph  by  Prof.  E.  N.  Horsford,  who  claimed  to  liave  found  the  site 
of  Norumbega  City,  on  the  banks  of  the  Charles  River  at  Weston,  near  Boston,  and 
that  the  Charles  was  the  Norumbega  River. 


The  Mythical  City  of  Norumbega  3 

Christian  Knight  who  is  dying  in  his  fruitless  search  for  the 
mythical  city,  "at  shut  of  day,"  see  a  vision  like  a  pipe  dream. 
"  I  see,  he  said,  "  the  domes  and  spires  of  Norumbega 
town  "  — "  What  sounds  are  these  but  chants  and  holy 
hymns  " — "  It  is  a  chapel  bell  that  fills  the  air  with  its  low 
tones  " — "  The  Christ  be  praised — He  sits  for  me  a  blessed 
cross  in  sight  " — "  I  fain  would  look  before  I  die  on  Norum.- 
bega's  walls." 

Pierre  Biard,  Lescarbot,  and  other  Jesuits,  repeatedly 
speak  of  Norumbega  as  being  on  the  Pentegoet  or  Penobscot 
River.  In  fact,  La  Saussaye,  when  he  sailed  from  Port  Royal 
(now  Annapolis,  Nova  Scotia),  intended  to  establish  the  settle- 
ment of  St.  Sauveur  on  the  Norumbega  or  Penobscot,  at  the 
place  now  known  as  Bangor,  Maine,  but  finally  settled  on 
Mount  Desert  Island. 

Champlain  sailed  up  the  Penobscot  in  his  search  for  the  city 
of  Norumbega,  and  his  map  of  1613  shows  the  name  of  Nor- 
umbega on  the  Penobscot  in  the  vicinity  of  Bangor. 

The  map  of  Ortelius,  1570,  and  Solis's  map  of  1598,  shows 
the  country  of  the  Montagues  Indians  east  of  Norumbega. 
(The  country  of  the  Montagnes  was  between  Three  Rivers 
and  the  Saguenay,  in  the  province  of  Quebec.)  If  these  maps 
are  correct,  it  would  make  the  Penobscot  the  Norumbega 
River. 

John  Fiske,  in  his  very  excellent  book  called  TJic  Dutch 
and  Quaker  Colonics  of  America,  by  very  ingenious  reason- 
ing, and  with  the  help  of  Maiollo's  map  of  Verrazano's  discov- 
eries, 1527,  Gastaldi's  map  of  1550,  and  Mercator's  Duisburg 
map  of  1569,  claims  that  the  Hudson  was  the  Norumbega,  and 
that  Manhattan  Island  was  the  site  of  the  city  and  that  it  was 
located  on  the  border  of  the  collect  or  pond  now  marked  by 
the  gloomy  prison  called  the  Tombs.  He  suggests  that  the 
name  may  be  a  corruption  of  Anormee  Berge,  which  he  says 


4  The  Mohawk  Valley 

means  Grand  Scarp  in  sixteenth-century  French,  and  was  ap- 
pUed  to  the  Hudson  River  by  Verrazzano,  who  describes  it  as 
a  very  broad  river  running  between  small  steep  hills,  evidently 
referring  to  the  Palisades.  Fiske  says:  "  What  better  epithet 
than  Grand  Scarp  could  be  applied  to  those  majestic  cliffs.  It 
is  clear  that  for  a  quarter  of  a  century  or  more  after  the  voyage 
of  Verrazzano  (1524)  the  Hudson  River  was  visited  by  French 
fur  traders,  and  that  they  had  block-houses  on  Manhattan  Is- 
land and  at  Albany,"  This  was  at  least  a  half-century  before 
the  voyage  of  Henry  Hudson  and  the  renaming  of  the  Hud- 
son River. 

If  the  Hudson  River  was  the  Norumbega,  and  if  a  city 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  long,  with  domes  and  spires  and  pil- 
lars of  crystal  and  silver  existed,  it  must  have  been  known  to 
the  Aborigines  of  the  Mohawk  Valley,  but,  so  far,  we  have 
been  unable  to  find  any  traditionary  evidence  of  the  mythical 
city  having  been  located  within  the  bounds  of  New  York 
State. 

We  do  not  expect,  however,  to  find  evidence  among  the 
Mohawks,  because  they  are  known  to  have  been  located  at 
Hochelaga  (Montreal)  in  1535,  and  the  lower  Mohawk  Valley 
was  then  occupied  by  tribes  of  the  Algonquin  nation,  probably 
the  Mohicans,  the  Abinakas,  or  the  Andastes. 


Chapter  II 
The  Mohawks 

THE  earliest  record  of  the  Mohawk  Indians,  whose  ab- 
original name,    as  given   by  the  Jesuit  priest,    Jean 
Brebeuf,  was  Agnierrhonons,  contracted  to  Agniers, 
"  the  people  of  the  flint,"  later  called   Mahaqua  by 
the  Algonquins,  Maquas  by  the  Dutch,  and  Mohawk  by  the 
English,  is  derived  from  Jacques  Cartier's  account  of  his  voy- 
age up  the  St.  Lawrence  to  Hochelaga  (Montreal),  in  1535. 

From  their  traditions,  they  were  driven  out  of  Canada  by 
the  Algonquins,  probably  during  the  latter  part  of  the  six- 
teenth century,  because  the  large  village  that  Cartier  visited 
in  1535  was  deserted  and  destroyed  when  Champlain  visited 
this  spot  in  1608. 

It  is  probable  that  they  made  their  way  direct  to  the  Mo- 
hawk Valley,  but,  being  numerically  weak,  chose  for  new 
homes  secluded  spots  deep  in  the  forest,  four  or  five  miles 
from  the  Mohawk  River,  to  build  their  palisaded  castles,  one 
of  which,  but  recently  discovered,  I  visited  in  the  month  of 
July,  1899.  ^t  that  season  of  the  year  we  find  men  all  over 
the  country  attacked  with  a  desire  for  a  little  relaxation  from 
business  or  the  regular  routine  of  life,  and  a  longing  to  flee 
from  urban  surroundings  and  spend  a  season  in  the  fields  and 
forests  away  from  the  abode  of  men,  and,  with  gun  and  line, 
provide  their  daily  food.  We  are  apt  to  call  it  sport,  but  is  it 
not,  rather,  the  "  old  Adam  "  that  is  asserting  itself,  an  in- 
mate longing  to  return  to  the  primitive  condition  of  man  and 

5 


6  The  Mohawk  Valley 

battle  awhile  with  nature  for  our  own  sustenance  ?  It  is  true 
that  we  like  to  take  some  of  the  luxuries  of  life  with  us  when 
we  go  into  the  forests,  but  the  greatest  pleasure  of  it  all  is  the 
freedom  from  care  and  the  feeling  that  we  are  providing  for 
our  wants  with  our  own  hands  and  by  our  own  exertions.  Our 
thoughts  are  apt  to  revert  to  the  time  when  the  hardy  pioneer 
was  obliged  to  live  as  we  are  living,  with  the  addition  of  a 
great  deal  of  hard  work  and  suffering  thrown  in.  And  then 
we  think  perhaps  of  the  aborigines.  Their  mode  of  life  and 
apparent  freedom  from  cares  has  a  charm  for  us  for  the  time 
being,  and  we  imagine  we  would  like  to  adopt  their  customs 
and  be  forever  free  from  the  requirements  of  society  and  the 
fear  of  protested  notes  and  overdue  bills  payable,  and  the  un- 
certainty of  bills  receivable.  But  thisdonging  lasts  only  a  short 
season,  and  education  asserts  itself  and  we  are  glad  to  get  back 
to  the  old  treadmill,  thankful  if  we  can  but  bring  with  us  re- 
newed health  and  strength  for  our  battle  with  "  the  world,  the 
flesh,  and  the  devil." 

Our  sojourn  in  the  northern  forests,  however,  lacks  one 
element  of  the  life  of  the  Aborigines;  and  that  is  the  constant 
watchfulness  against  savage  enemies  and  the  necessity  of 
selecting  for  a  home  some  secluded  spot  which  nature  and 
their  rude  art  could  make  into  a  fortress. 

I  have  in  mind  such  a  spot  which  has  lately  been  discov- 
ered by  accident  after  having  been  abandoned  for  three  or  four 
centuries.  In  the  year  1892,  George  W.  Chapin,  a  woodman 
residing  between  Fonda  and  Johnstown,  returning  to  his  home 
from  the  latter  place  through  a  lonely  wood  on  the  bank  of 
the  Cayudutta  Creek,  observed  a  hole  in  the  ground  that  had 
lately  been  made  by  a  woodchuck.  Examining  the  earth 
thrown  out  by  the  nimble  feet  of  the  rodent,  he  observed  a 
fragment  of  pottery,  which,  upon  examination,  was  found  to 
be  a  piece  of  decorated  earthenware  of  Indian  manufacture. 


The  Mohawks  9 

The  discovery  having  been  communicated  to  the  late  A.  G. 
Richmond,  W.  M.  Beauchamp  of  the  New  York  State  Mu- 
seum, and  others,  excavations  were  made  which  estabHshed 
the  fact  that  the  site  of  an  ancient  Indian  fort,  hitherto  not 
known  or  suspected,  had  been  discovered.  Many  interesting 
articles  of  Indian  manufacture  have  been  unearthed,  some  of 
which  have  been  illustrated  by  W.  M.  Beauchamp  in  the  New 
York  State  Museum  Bulletins,  and  the  spot  described  by 
Robert  M.  Hartley  in  the  Popular  Science  Nezvs,  June,  1896. 

Within  a  few  weeks  I  made  three  visits  to  this  interesting 
spot  with  various  friends,  and  must  confess  that  it  has  a  great 
charm  to  me;  but  although  the  articles  brought  away  were 
numerous,  they  were  of  small  value  when  compared  with  those 
secured  by  earlier  visitors.  I  wish  to  thank  Mr.  Charles  Gar- 
diner of  Johnstown  for  his  explicit  instructions  how  to  find 
the  place.  He  said:  "  Get  off  at  the  station  of  Sammons- 
ville;  walk  up  the  track  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  or  until  you 
come  to  an  old  stump  field;  pass  through  the  stump  field  and 
the  woods  adjoining,  until  you  come  to  a  ravine;  cross  the 
ravine,  and  there  you  are." 

My  first  visit  was  made  with  Myron  W.  Reid  for  a  com- 
panion, but  when  we  arrived  at  the  stump  field,  he  was  so 
charmed  by  the  liquid,  jingling  notes  of  numerous  bobolinks, 
that  he  deserted  me  for  the  time  being  and  left  me  to  pursue  my 
quest  alone.  Thanks  to  Mr.  Gardiner's  instructions,  the  place 
was  found  without  any  trouble.  Subsequent  visits  were  made, 
and  each  time  resulted  in  interesting  discoveries.  (I  wish  to 
say,  however,  that  previous  investigators,  undoubtedly  were 
just  as  succcessful  or  perhaps  more  so  than  I  was.) 

The  site  of  this  ancient  Indian  fort  is  located  on  a  high, 
broad  point  of  land,  between  two  ravines,  which  grow  deeper 
as  they  approach  the  bed  of  the  Cayudutta  Creek,  that  flows 
by   its  western  boundary.     Both    ravines  run  in  a  southerly 


lo  The  Mohawk  Valley 

direction  and  through  the  easterly  ravine  flows  a  small  perma- 
nent stream.  The  approach  to  the  high  ground  of  the  Indian 
village  from  the  Cayudutta  Creek  seems  to  have  been  through 
the  latter  ravine,  which  becomes  a  narrow,  slaty  gorge  as  it 
approaches  the  flats  of  the  Cayudutta  Valley,  and  owing  to 
the  dense  growth  of  small  trees  and  underbrush  the  entrance 
is  not  easily  seen  from  the  creek  below.  The  gorge  itself  is 
quite  picturesque,  and  its  present  condition  suggests  a  possible 
method  of  defence  used  by  the  Indians,  large  trees  having 
been  felled  and  thrown  into  the  bed  of  the  creek,  forming  a 
rude  breastwork.  Even  in  the  present  condition  of  the  huge 
rotten  trunks  they  present  an  obstacle  not  easily  overcome  by 
the  investigator.  As  you  enter  the  gorge  from  below,  you 
encounter  a  series  of  slaty  ledges,  over  whose  moss-covered 
surface  the  stream  trickles  slowly,  making  a  series  of  slimy 
steps  extending  upward  for  twenty  or  thirty  feet,  or  to  the 
level  of  the  higher  ground  of  the  forest.  On  the  west  side  of 
the  gorge  these  slaty  steps  have  been  worn  smooth  and 
rounded  by  countless  footsteps,  up  to  a  point  about  ten  feet 
from  the  entrance,  where  a  trail  is  seen  ascending  the  side  of 
the  hill  to  the  plateau  above.  As  the  trail  or  path  approaches 
the  top,  it  is  worn  in  some  places  from  four  to  six  inches  deep 
along  the  edge  of  the  hill,  showing  that  the  place  had  been 
occupied  for  a  considerable  space  of  time  by  a  numerous 
population. 

The  plateau  itself  extends  north  to  a  considerable  distance 
and  is  well  covered  with  trees  of  large  size  and  the  rotten 
trunks  of  many  monarchs  of  the  forest.  The  place  suggests 
seclusion,  and  its  stillness  is  almost  oppressive.  The  only  evi- 
dence of  life  observable  was  the  scurry  of  a  solitary  partridge 
chick  and  the  dismal  croak  of  ^  pater  faviilias  crow,  evidently 
solicitous  for  the  safety  of  his  little  family  in  the  top  of  one  of 
the  tall  pines.     Take  it  all  in  all,  I  would  not  recommend  it 


The  Mohawks  ii 

as  a  very  desirable  place  for  a  Sunday-school  picnic.  This 
spot  has  undoubtedly  been  visited  by  a  number  of  "  diggers," 
as  is  seen  by  the  upturned  black  earth,  plentifully  sprinkled 
with  small  fragments  of  fresh-water  clam-shells  and  occasional 
bits  of  pottery. 

It  is  evident  that  this  spot  was  once  an  Indian  forti- 
fication, as  the  line  of  the  palisade  is  seen  stretching  across  the 
plateau  from  ravine  to  ravine.  Although  I  was  unable  to 
secure  many  relics  of  intrinsic  value,  my  search  was  quite  suc- 
cessful and  resulted  in  unearthing  a  stone  axe,  a  broken  stone 
pestle,  a  few  bone  tools,  and  flint  implements,  together  with 
forty  fragments  of  as  many  decorated  vessels  of  Indian  pot- 
tery. One  of  the  most  interesting  articles  that  have  been  un- 
earthed is  a  brass  or  copper  bead,  about  six  inches  long.  This 
was  found  by  Mr.  A.  G.  Richmond  a  few  years  ago,  and  is 
valued  from  the  fact  that  it  enables  archaeologists  to  fix  the 
probable  date  of  the  occupation  of  this  secluded  spot  by  the 
Indians.  As  this  is  the  only  article  found  there  that  would 
indicate  that  the  occupants  had  ever  come  in  contact  with 
white  men,  it  must  have  been  occupied  previous  to  1609,  and 
subsequent  to  the  discovery  of  the  river  St.  Lawrence,  in  1535. 
Many  archaeologists  are  of  the  opinion  that  the  Iroquois  were 
the  people  whom  Jacques  Cartier  met  at  Hochelaga  (Montreal) 
and  Stadacone  (Quebec)  on  the  occasion  of  his  ascent  of  the 
St.  Lawrence  in  1535,  and  they  advance  the  theory  that  they 
were  driven  out  of  Canada  between  that  time  and  1609,  when 
Champlain  found  a  new  people  at  Stadacone  (Quebec)  and 
Hochelaga  (Montreal)  entirely  deserted. 

W.  M.  Beauchamp,  in  a  recent  communication,  says: 
"I  should  date  the  Mohawk  Fort  (Cayudutta)  a  little  be- 
fore 1600,  and  think  they  had  these  long  brass  beads  from 
the  French,  they  are  much  alike  and  unquestionably  Euro- 
pean.     We  are  to  remember,  however,  that  the  Iroquois  had 


12  The  Mohawk  Valley 

villages  as  far  down  as  Quebec  in  1535,  and  seem  to  have 
often  visited  the  mouth  of  the  river  where  vessels  often 
touched." 

Parkman  says:  "  In  the  vocabulary  of  the  language  ap- 
pended to  the  journal  of  Cartier's  second  voyage,  Canada  is 
set  down  as  a  word  for  town  or  village.  It  bears  the  same 
meaning  in  the  Mohawk  tongue."  "  The  language  of  Stada- 
cone,  or  Quebec,  when  Cartier  visited  it,  was  apparently  a 
dialect  of  the  Iroquois."  You  will  probably  remember  that 
Cartier's  first  voyage  was  made  in  1534,  at  which  time  he  struck 
the  mainland  at  Gaspe,'  opposite  the  island  of  Anticosta,  and 
that  he  kidnapped  two  young  Indians.  These  young  savages 
returned  with  him  in  1535,  acting  as  interpreters,  and  are  said 
to  have  been  a  part  of  a  war  party  from  Hochelaga,  speaking 
a  different  language  from  the  Indians  of  Gaspe,  at  which  place 
they  were  found  by  Cartier.  There  was  also  a  tradition 
among  the  Agnies  (Mohawks)  that  their  ancestors  were  once 
settled  in  Quebec,  and  relics  found  at  Montreal  correspond 
with  articles  found  in  Iroquois  burial-places  in  western  New 
York.  Therefore  we  think  it  is  safe  to  assume  that  the 
Cayudutta  fort  was  probably  one  of  the  earliest  settlements  of 
the  Iroquois  (Mohawks)  in  the  valley  of  the  Mohawk  and  a 
place  of  great  historic  interest  from  the  prehistoric  character 
of  the  relics  found  there. 

Parkman,  in  his  Pioneers  of  France  in  the  Nciv  World,  says: 

When  America  was  first  made  known  to  Europe,  the  part  assumed 
by  France  on  the  borders  of  that  new  world  was  peculiar,  and  is 
little  recognized.  While  the  Spaniard  roamed  sea  and  land,  burning 
for  achievement,  red-hot  with  bigotry  and  avarice,  and  while  Eng- 
land, with  soberer  steps  and  a  less  dazzling  result,  followed  in  the 
path  of  discovery  and  gold  hunting,  it  was  from  France  that  those 
barbarous  shores  first  learned  to  serve  the  ends  of  peaceful  commer- 
cial industry. 

A   French   writer,    however,    advances    a  more    ambitious 


The  Mohawks  13 

claim.  In  the  year  1488,  four  years  before  the  first  voyage  of 
Columbus,  America,  he  maintains,  was  found  by  a  French- 
man. Cousin,  a  navigator  of  Dieppe,  being  at  sea  off  the 
African  coast,  was  forced  westward,  it  is  said,  by  winds  and 
currents,  to  within  sight  of  an  unknown  shore,  where  he  pres- 
ently descried  the  mouth  of  a  great  river.  On  board  his  ship 
was  one  Pinzon,  whose  conduct  became  so  mutinous  that,  on 
his  return  to  Dieppe,  he  made  complaint  to  the  magistracy, 
who  thereupon  dismissed  the  offender  from  the  maritime  ser- 
vice of  the  town.  Pinzon  went  to  Spain,  became  known  to 
Columbus,  told  him  of  his  discovery,  and  joined  him  on  his 
voyage  in  1492, 

In  the  year  1535  Jacques  Cartier,  a  Frenchman,  sailed  from 
the  ancient  town  of  St.  Malo,  France,  and  entered  the  bay  of 
St.  Lawrence,  as  Cartier  named  it,  in  August  or  September  of 
the  same  year.  Having  with  him  the  two  Indian  lads  cap- 
tured in  his  former  visit  to  these  shores,  he  found  them  of 
great  assistance  in  communicating  with  the  natives.  They  are 
supposed  to  have  spoken  the  Mohawk  dialect.  It  is  said  that 
the  Indian  name  for  the  St.  Lawrence  River  was  Hochelaga, 
and  that  the  present  site  of  Quebec  was  called  Stadacona, 
whose  king's  name  was  Donnacona.  Cartier  says  that  the 
country  below  Stadacona  (Quebec)  was  called  Saguenay,  and 
that  above,  Hochelaga.  At  Stadacona,  Cartier  was  told  of  a 
large  Indian  town,  many  days'  journey  above,  which  was 
called  Hochelaga,  and  had  given  the  name  to  the  river  and 
country  also.  Passing  up  the  river  with  a  small  galleon  and 
two  open  boats  and  about  fifty  sailors,  on  the  2d  of  October, 
1535,  they  reached  the  mysterious  Hochelaga.  Their  landing 
was  made  just  below  the  present  quays  of  Montreal,  and 
thronging  the  shores  were  a  thousand  or  more  Indians  await- 
ing the  strangers.  The  next  morning  they  were  conducted  to 
the  Indians'  town,  lying  under  the  shadow  of  the  mountain 


14  The  Mohawk  Valley 

which  Cartier  named  Mont  Royal — Montreal;  "hence  the 
name  of  the  busy  city  which  now  holds  the  site  of  the  vanished 
Hochelaga," 

A  later  writer,  Lescarbot,  insists  that  the  country  on  both 
sides  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  from  Hochelaga  to  its  mouth,  was 
called  Canada,  The  derivation  of  the  name  Canada  is  un- 
doubtedly Indian,  and  not  Spanish,  and  it  is  a  singular  fact  that 
in  the  vocabulary  of  the  language  of  Hochelaga  appended  to  the 
journal  of  Cartier's  second  voyage,  Canada  is  set  down  as  mean- 
ing town  or  village,  and  that  it  bears  the  same  meaning  in  the 
Mohawk,  and  both  languages  are  dialects  of  the  Iroquois. 

Quoting  still  from  Parkman's  notes:  "  That  the  Indians  of 
Hochelaga  belonged  to  the  HuronTroquois  family  of  tribes  is 
evident  from  the  affinities  of  their  language  and  from  the  con- 
struction of  their  houses  and  defensive  works.  This  was 
identical  with  the  construction  universal,  or  nearly  so,  among 
the  Huron-Iroquois  tribes."  It  is  said  that  in  i860  a  quantity 
of  Indian  remains  were  dug  up  at  Montreal  that  evidently  be- 
longed to  the  Iroquois  and  not  to  the  Algonquin  type.  There 
is  said  to  be  a  tradition  among  the  Agniers  (Mohawks),  one  of 
the  five  nations  of  the  Iroquois,  that  their  ancestors  were  once 
settled  at  Quebec.  A  tradition  recorded  by  Colden  in  his  his- 
tory of  the  Five  Nations  (Iroquois),  that  they  were  formerly 
settled  near  Montreal,  is  of  interest.  The  tradition  declares 
that  they  were  driven  thence  by  (he  Adirondacks,  which  was 
the  distinctive  name  of  the  tribes  of  the  Algonquins  located  in 
Canada. 

It  is  said  that  when  Champlain,  in  1603,  passed  up  the  St. 
Lawrence,  sixty-eight  years  after  Cartier's  visit,  "  Hochelaga 
and  its  savage  population  had  vanished,  and  in  their  place  were 
a  few  wandering  Algonquins  of  different  tongues  and  lineage." 

Champlain,  in  1609,  met  them  again  on  the  shores  of  Lake 
Champlain,  called  by  the  natives  Iroquois  Lake.    Champlain's 


^f^ 


THE    ROCKY    WALLS    OK    JlIK    CANAJUUAKIE 


15 


The  Mohawks  17 

account  of  the  meeting  is  so  interesting  that  I  will  transcribe 
it  in  his  own  words: 

At  nightfall  we  embarked  in  our  canoes  to  continue  our  journey, 
and  as  we  advanced  very  softly  and  noiselessly,  we  encountered  a 
party  of  Iroquois,  on  the  twenty-ninth  of  the  month  (July,  1609), 
about  ten  o'clock  at  night,  at  a  point  off  a  cape  which  juts  into  the 
lake  on  the  west  side.  They  and  we  began  to  shout,  each  seizing 
his  arms.  We  withdrew  towards  the  water  and  the  Iroquois  repaired 
on  shore  and  arranged  all  their  canoes,  the  one  beside  the  other, 
and  began  to  hew  down  trees  with  villainous  axes,  which  they  some- 
times got  in  war,  and  others  of  stone,  and  fortified  themselves 
securely. 

Our  party,  likewise,  kept  their  canoes  arranged,  the  one  along- 
side the  other,  tied  to  poles  so  as  not  to  run  adrift,  in  order  to  fight 
all  together,  should  need  be.  We  were  on  the  water  about  an  arrow 
shot  from  their  barricade. 

When  they  were  armed  and  in  order,  they  sent  two  canoes  from 
the  fleet,  v/hich  consisted  of  twenty-four  canoes  and  sixty  savages, 
to  know  if  their  enemies  wished  to  fight,  who  answered  they  desired 
nothing  else;  but  that  just  then  there  was  not  much  light,  and  that 
we  must  wait  for  day  to  distinguish  each  other,  and  they  would  give 
us  battle  at  sunrise.  This  was  agreed  to  by  our  party.  Meanwhile 
the  whole  night  was  spent  in  dancing  and  singing,  as  well  on  one  side 
as  on  the  other,  mingled  with  an  infinitude  of  insults  and  other  taunts 
such  as  the  little  courage  they  had;  how  powerless  their  resistance 
against  our  arms,  and  that  when  day  would  break  they  should  ex- 
perience this  to  their  ruin.  Ours,  likewise,  did  not  fail  in  repartee, 
telling  them  they  should  witness  the  effect  of  arms  they  had  never 
seen  before,  and  a  multitude  of  speeches  as  is  usual  at  a  siege  of  a 
town.  After  the  one  and  the  other  had  sung,  danced,  and  parlia- 
mented  enough,  day  broke.  My  three  companions  and  I  were 
always  concealed  for  fear  the  enemy  should  see  us  preparing  our 
arms  as  best  we  could,  being,  however,  separated,  each  in  one  of 
the  canoes  belonging  to  the  savage  Montagnaes. 

After  being  equipped  with  light  armor,  we  took  each  an  arquebus 
and  went  ashore.  I  saw  the  enemy  leave  their  barricade;  they  were 
about  200  men,  of  strong  and  robust  appearance,  who  were  coming 
slowly  towards  us,  with  a  gravity  and  assurance  which  greatly  pleased 
me,  led  on  by  three  chiefs.    Ouis  were  marching  in  similar  order,  and 


1 8  The  Mohawk  Valley 

told  us  that  those  who  bore  three  lofty  plumes  were  the  chiefs,  and 
that  there  were  but  three,  and  they  were  to  be  recognized  by  those 
plumes,  which  were  considerable  larger  than  those  of  their  com- 
panions, and  that  I  must  do  all  I  could  to  kill  them.  I  promised  to 
do  what  I  could,  and  that  I  was  sorry  they  could  not  clearly  under- 
stand me,  so  as  to  give  them  the  order  and  plan  of  attacking  their 
enemies,  as  we  should  undoubtedly  defeat  them  all ;  but  there  was 
no  help  for  that;  that  I  was  very  glad  to  encourage  them  and  to 
manifest  to  them  my  good  will  when  we  should  be  engaged. 

The  moment  we  landed  they  began  to  run  about  two  hundred 
paces  toward  their  enemies, who  stood  firm, and  had  not  yet  perceived 
my  companions,  who  went  into  the  bush  with  some  savages.  Ours 
commenced  calling  me  in  a  loud  voice,  and  making  way  for  me 
opened  in  two,  and  placed  me  at  their  head,  marching  about  twenty 
paces  in  advance,  until  I  was  within  thirty  paces  of  the  enemy. 
The  moment  they  saw  me,  they  halted,  gazing  at  me  and  I  at  them. 
When  I  saw  them  preparing  to  shoot  at  us,  I  raised  my  arquebus, 
and  aiming  directly  at  one  of  the  three  chiefs,  two  of  them  fell  to 
the  ground  by  this  shot  and  one  of  their  companions  received  a 
wound  of  which  he  died  afterwards.  I  had  put  four  balls  in  my 
arquebus.  Ours  on  witnessing  a  shot  so  favorable  for  them,  set  up 
such  tremendous  shouts  that  thunder  could  not  have  been  heard; 
and  yet  there  was  no  lack  of  arrows  on  one  side  and  the  other. 

The  Iroquois  were  greatly  astonished  seeing  two  men  killed  so 
instantaneously,  notwithstanding  they  were  provided  with  arrow- 
proof  armor,  woven  with  cotton  thread  and  wood;  this  frightened 
them  very  much.  Whilst  I  was  reloading,  one  of  my  companions 
in  the  bush  fired  a  shot  which  so  astonished  them  anew,  seeing  their 
chiefs  slain,  they  lost  courage,  took  to  flight  and  abandoned  the 
field  and  their  fort,  hiding  themselves  in  the  depths  of  the  forest, 
whither  pursuing  them,  I  killed  some  others.  Our  savages  also 
killed  several  of  them  and  took  ten  or  twelve  prisoners.  The  rest 
carried  off  the  wounded.  Fifteen  or  sixteen  of  ours  were  wounded 
by  arrows;  they  were  promptly  cured. 

After  having  gained  the  victory,  they  amused  themselves  plunder- 
ing Indian  corn  and  meal  from  the  enemy;  also  their  arms  which 
they  threw  away  in  order  to  run  better.  And  having  feasted,  danced 
and  sung,  we  returned  tliree  hours  afterward  with  the  prisoners. 

The  place  where  this  battle  was  fought  is  in  forty-three  degrees, 
some  minutes  latitude,  and  I  named  it  Lake  Champlain. 


Chapter  III 
Journal  of  Arent  Van  Curler 

CONNECTED  with  the  early  history  of  the  colony  or 
province  of  New  York,   the  names    of  three    men 
stand  out  bold  and  clear  for  their  honesty,  energy, 
and    kindly    treatment    of    the    Iroquois    Indians,^ 
namely : 

Arent  Van  Curler,  from  1634  to  the  time  of  his  death  by 
the  overturning  of  a  boat  during  a  storm  on  Lake  Champlaiii 
in  1667,  and  who  was  held  in  such  high  esteem  by  the  Mo- 
hawks that  they  used  liis  name  when  addressing  the  governors 
of  New  York  and  called  them  "  Brother  Corlear, "  a  fitting 
tribute  to  him  whom  they  called  "  good  friend." 

Peter  Schuyler  and  Sir  William  Johnson  were  the  two  other 
men  referred  to.  Peter  Schuyler  seems  to  have  gained  the 
good  will  of  the  Indians  to  the  extent  that  they  called  him 
Quiddar,"  which  was  as  near  as  they  could  pronounce  the 
word  Peter,  as  the  labials  /,  b,  m,  are  not  to  be  found  in  their 
language.  He  was  the  first  mayor  of  Albany,  and  afterward 
acting  governor  of  New  York  for  a  short  period.  Like  Van 
Curler,  he  had  unbounded  influence  over  the  Indians,  b}^  whom 
he  was  greatly  admired. 

Sir  William  Johnson,  of  our  own  section  of  the  Mohawk 
Valley,  seems  to  have  succeeded  Van  Curler  and  Schuyler  in 
the  affections  of  the  Mohawks,  and  from  1738  until  the  time 
of  his  death  at  Johnstown,  in  1774,  used  his  power  to  the 
benefit   of  the   colonists  of  the    Mohawk  Valley,   and   to  the 

19 


20  The  Mohawk  Valley 

defeat  of  the  Canadian  French  and  Indians,  But  at  this  time 
it  is  of  Van  Curler  that  we  would  speak.  Professor  Pearson 
says: 

The  acknowledged  leader  of  the  little  colony  at  Schenectady,  in 
1662,  was  Arent  Van  Curler.  He  came  over  in  1630,  as  superin- 
tendent of  the  Colonic  Rensselaerswyck,  and  continued  in  office 
until  1646,  besides  acting  as  colonial  secretary.  In  1643  he  mar- 
ried Antonia  Slaagboom,  widow  of  Jonas  Bronk,  and  soon  after 
settled  on  the  "  Flatts  "  above  Fort  Orange  [Albany].  Here  he 
remained  until  the  spring  of  1662,  when  he  took  up  his  residence  at 
Schenectady,  where  he  remained  directing  and  furthering  the 
interests  of  the  settlers  until  his  unfortunate  death. 

While  yet  living  in  Albany,  in  1642,  he  heard  that  a  Jesuit 
priest  named  Isaac  Jogues  was  being  shamefully  treated  by 
the  Mohawks  and  threatened  with  death,  and  on  a  mission  of 
mercy  he  penetrated  the  Mohawk  country  to  the  first  Castle, 
and  succeeded  in  saving  the  life  of  Father  Jogues  for  the  time 
being,  but  could  not  procure  the  release  of  the  prisoner. 
Father  Jogues  afterward  escaped  and  returned  to  France, 
where  he  remained  until  1643,  when  he  returned  to  Canada, 
and  in  1646  to  the  Mohawk  country,  to  ineet  a  shameful  death 
by  the  hands  of  the  Indians,  at  Os-se-ru-e-non,  October  18, 
1646. 

It  was  after  Van  Curler  returned  from  his  mission  of 
mercy,  in  1642,  that  he  wrote  to  Killian  Van  Rensselaer, 
the  Patroon,  in  Amsterdam,  Holland,  that  "  a  half  day's 
journey  from  the  Colonie,  on  the  Mohawk  River,  there 
lies  the  most  beautiful  land  that  the  eye  of  man  ever  be- 
held." It  was  on  this  land  that  in  1662  he  settled  the 
colony  of  Schenectady.  It  has  been  thought  that  his  journey 
of  1642  was  his  first  advent  into  the  Mohawk's  country;  but 
recent  events  have  brought  to  light  a  diary  of  a  journey  he 
made  through  this  locality  as  early  as  1634,  and  it  ante- 
dates  all    other   records    of    the    Mohawk   Valley,    between 


Journal  of  Arent  Van  Curler  21 

Schenectady  and  Oneida.  In  the  Independent  of  October  3, 
1895,  we  find  the  following: 

CORLEAR    AND    HIS    JOURNEY    OF    1634. 

A  Great  Discovery  in  New  York  History. 

The  Oldest  Record  of  the  Dutch  Period. 

A  Notable  Visit  to  the  Mohawk  Indians. 

By  General  James  Grant  Wilson. 

The  original  journal  of  an  expedition  to  the  country  of  Mohawks 
and  Sennekens  [this  should  read  Oneidas],  made  in  1634-35, by  Arent 
Van  Curler — or  Corlear,  according  to  the  pronunciation  of  the  name 
in  English — is  now  before  the  writer.  It  consists  of  thirty-two  well- 
preserved  pages  of  foolscap,  which  have  lain  perdu  in  a  Dutch 
garret  for  two  hundred  and  sixty  years.  It  is  of  great  historical 
value,  antedating  as  it  does  any  existing  document  relating  to  the 
history  of  New  Netherland,  and  coming  from  the  pen  of  one  of  the 
leading  actors  in  the  early  annals  of  the  colony. 

[The  miles  spoken  of  in  this  journal  are  Dutch  miles,  and 
were  equal  to  about  three  English  miles,] 

This  diary  records  that  Van  Curler,  with  two  other  white 
men  and  five  Maquaase  Indians,  as  guides,  left  Fort  Orange 
December  1 1,  1634, 

travelling  mostly  northwest  about  eight  miles,  and  arrived  at  half- 
past  twelve  in  the  evening,  at  a  hunter's  little  cabin,  where  we  slept 
for  the  night,  near  the  stream  that  runs  into  their  [Mohawks']  land, 
and  of  the  name  of  Vyoge  (?).  The  land  is  most  full  of  oak  trees, 
and  the  flat  land  is  abundant.  The  stream  runs  into  their  land 
near  their  [Mohawks']  Castle,  but  cannot  be  navigated  up  stream, 
on  account  of  the  heavy  current. 

Dec.  12. — At  three  o'clock,  before  daylight,  we  proceeded 
again,  and  the  savages  that  went  with  us  would  have  left  us  there 
secretly,  if  I  had  not  perceived  that  their  dogs  had  eaten  our  bread 
and  cheese.  So  we  had  to  be  contented  with  dry  bread  on  which 
to  travel;  and  after  going  for  an  hour  we  came  to  the  branch 
[Mohawk  River]  that  runs  into  our  river,  and  passed  the  Maquas 
villages,  where  the  ice  drifted  very  fast.      Jeronimus  crossed  first, 


22  The  Mohawk  Valley 

with  one  savage  in  a  canoe  made  of  the  bark  of  trees,  because  there 
was  only  room  for  two;  after  that  Willem  and  I  went  over;  and  it 
was  so  dark  that  we  could  not  see  each  other  if  we  did  not  come 
close  together.     It  was  not  without  danger. 

When  all  of  us  had  crossed  we  went  another  mile  and  a  half  and 
came  to  a  hunter's  cabin,  which  we  entered  to  eat  some  venison,  and 
hastened  further,  and  after  another  half  mile  we  saw  some  Indians 
approaching,  and  as  soon  as  they  saw  us  they  ran  off  and  threw  their 
sacks  and  bags  away,  and  fled  down  a  valley  behind  the  underwood, 
so  that  we  could  not  see  them.  We  looked  at  their  goods  and  bags, 
but  took  only  a  piece  of  bread.  It  was  baked  with  beans,  and  we 
ate  it.  We  went  further,  and  mostly  along  the  aforesaid  kil  [Mo- 
hawk River]  that  ran  swiftly.  In  this  kil  there  are  a  good  many 
islands,  and  on  the  sides  upward  of  500  or  600  morgens  of  flat  land. 
Yes,  I  think  even  more.  And  after  we  had  been  marching  about 
eleven  miles  we  arrived  at  one  o'clock  in  the  evening,  half  a  mile 
from  the  first  Castle,  at  a  little  house.  We  found  only  Indian 
women  inside.  We  should  have  gone  further,  but  I  could  hardly 
move  my  feet  because  of  the  rough  road,  so  we  slept  there.  It  was 
very  cold,  with  northerly  wind. 

Dec.  13th. — In  the  morning  we  went  together  to  the  Castle  over 
the  ice  that  during  the  night  had  frozen  on  the  kil,  and,  after  going 
half  a  mile,  we  arrived  in  their  first  Castle,  which  is  built  on  a  high 
mountain  [hill].  There  stood  but  thirty-six  houses,  in  rows  like 
streets,  so  that  we  could  pass  nicely.  The  houses  are  made  and 
covered  with  bark  of  trees,  and  mostly  are  flat  at  the  top.  Some 
are  one  hundred,  ninety,  or  eighty  paces  long,  and  twenty-two  and 
twenty-three  feet  high.  There  were  some  inside  doors  of  hewn 
boards,  furnished  with  iron  hinges.  In  some  houses  we  saw  different 
kinds  of  iron  chains,  harrow  irons,  iron  hoops,  nails — all  probably 
stolen  somewhere.  Most  of  the  people  were  out  hunting  deer  and 
bear.  The  houses  were  full  of  corn  that  they  lay  in  store,  and  we 
saw  maize;  yes,  in  some  of  the  houses,  more  than  three  hundred 
bushels. 

They  make  barrels  and  canoes  of  the  bark  of  trees,  and  sew  with 
bark  as  well.  We  had  a  good  many  pumpkins  cooked  and  baked, 
that  they  called  anansira.  None  of  the  chiefs  were  at  home,  but 
the  principal  chief  is  named  Adriochten.  He  lived  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  from  the  fort  in  a  small  house,  because  a  good  many  savages  in 
this  Castle  died  of  smallpox.     I  sent  him  a  message  to  come  and  see 


Journal  of  Arent  Van  Curler  23 

us,  which  he  promptly  did;  he  came  and  bid  me  welcome,  and  said 
that  he  wanted  us  very  much  to  come  with  him.  We  should  have 
done  so,  but  when  already  on  the  way  another  chief  called  us  and 
so  we  went  to  the  Castle  again. 

This  one  had  a  big  fire  lighted,  and  a  fat  turkey  cooked,  which 
we  ate.  He  gave  us  two  bearskins  to  sleep  upon,  and  presented  me 
with  three  beaver  skins.  In  the  evening  William  Tomassen,  whose 
legs  were  swollen  from  the  march,  had  a  few  cuts  made  with  a  knife 
therein,  and  after  that  had  them  rubbed  with  bear's  grease.  We 
slept  in  this  house,  ate  heartily  of  pumpkins,  bear's  meat  and  veni- 
son, so  that  we  were  not  hungry;  but  were  treated  as  well  as  they 
could  possibly  do.     We  hope  that  all  will  succeed  well. 

They  stayed  at  this  castle  three  days,  or  until  December 
l6th,  when  they  resumed  their  journey. 

Dec.  i6th, — After  midday,  a  famous  hunter  came  here,  named 
Sickarus,  who  wanted  very  much  that  we  should  go  with  him  to  his 
Castle.  He  offered  to  carry  our  goods,  and  to  let  us  sleep  and 
remain  in  his  house  as  long  as  we  liked ;  and  because  he  was  offering 
us  so  much  I  gave  him  a  knife  and  two  awls  as  a  present,  and  to  the 
chief  in  whose  house  we  had  been,  I  presented  a  knife  and  a  pair  of 
scissors;  and  then  we  took  our  departure  from  this  Castle,  named 
Onekagoncka,  and  after  going  another  half  mile  over  the  ice,  we 
saw  a  village  with  only  six  houses,  of  the  name  Canowarode;  but 
we  did  not  enter  it,  because  it  was  not  worth  while;  and  after 
another  half  mile  we  passed  again  a  village  where  twelve  houses 
stood.  It  was  named  Senatsycrosy.  Like  the  others,  it  was  not 
worth  while  entering,  and  after  another  mile,  or  mile  and  a  half,  we 
passed  by  great  stretches  of  flat  land  and  came  into  this  Castle, 
Medashet,  about  two  o'clock  in  the  evening.  I  did  not  see  much 
beside  a  good  many  graves.  This  Castle  is  named  Canagere.  It  is 
built  on  a  hill  without  any  palisades  or  any  defense.  We  found  only 
seven  men  at  home,  beside  a  party  of  old  women  and  children. 
The  chiefs  of  this  Castle,  named  Tonnosatton  and  Tamwerot,  were 
hunting,  so  we  slept  in  the  house  of  Sickarus,  as  he  had  promised 
us;  and  we  counted  in  his  house  one  hundred  pieces  of  salable 
beaver  skins  that  he  captured  with  his  own  dogs. 

Van  Curler  continued  his  journey  to  the  Sinncken  (Onei- 
das)  where  he  arrived  on   December  30th,  and  remained  with 


24  The  Mohawk  Valley 

the  Indians  until  the  12th  of  January,  1635,  when  he  took  his 
departure  for  Fort  Orange,  following  the  same  route  he  had 
travelled  in  his  outward  journey,  and  arrived  at  Onekagoncka, 
the  first  castle,  at  sunset,  January  19th. 

January  20th  in  the  morning,  before  daylight,  Jeronimus  sold 
his  coat  for  four  beaver  skins.  We  departed  at  one  hour  before 
daylight,  and  after  marching  by  guess  two  miles,  the  savages  pointed 
to  a  high  mountain  [hill]  where  their  Castle  stood  nine  years  before. 
They  had  been  driven  out  by  the  Mahicans  [Mohicans]  and  after  a 
time  they  did  not  want  to  live  there. 

On  January  21st  the  party  reached  Fort  Orange.  This 
ends  the  journal.  At  this  time  I  wish  to  speak  of  his  journey 
of  December  nth,  12th,  13th,  14th,  and  i6th,  or  of  that  por- 
tion of  the  journey  that  brought  him  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
present  city  of  Amsterdam.  It  is  conceded  by  good  authority 
that  the  stream  he  crossed,  which  was  named  "  Vyoge " 
(probably  Oioghi,  which  was  the  Indian  name  for  river),  was 
the  Mohawk  River  and  that  he  crossed  to  the  north  side  of  the 
Mohawk  (the  kil  that  ran  so  swiftly)  on  December  12th,  west 
of  Schenectady.  On  the  morning  of  December  13th  he  re- 
crossed  to  the  south  side,  over  the  ice,  and  after  going  a  half 
mile  arrived  at  the  castle  of  Onekagoncka,  which  was  situated 
on  a  high  hill,  and  whose  chief's  name  was  Adriochten. 

It  was  this  name,  Adriochten,  that  suggested  the  possi- 
bility of  Onekagoncka  having  been  located  a  short  distance 
below  Amsterdam,  instead  of  at  Auriesville  as  suggested  by 
some  of  the  historians  of  the  valley. 

In  Pearson's  Schenectady  Patent  we  find  record  of  a  deed  of 
land  given  by  the  Mohawks,  December  16,  1686,  to  Hendrick 
Cuyler,  of  Albany,  which  is  described  as  "  a  piece  of  land 
situate  mostly  on  the  north  side  of  the  Mohawk,  Adriutha  or 
Adriuche,  above  Schenectady,  beginning  on  the  north  side  of 
the  river  from  a  white  oak  tree  that  is  marked  with  a  wolf 


Journal  of  Arent  Van  Curler  27 

standing  on  the  west  side  of  a  creek  (Lewis),  to  a  beech  tree, 
also  marked  with  a  wolf,  standing  on  the  east  side  of  a  small  kill 
or  creek  (Eva's  Kill),  and  thence  over  the  river  on  the  south 
side  from  a  great  black  oak  tree,  which  is  also  marked  with 
a  wolf,  together  with  all  the  small  islands,  or  banks  that  lie 
within  said  limits,  to  an  old  oak  tree  marked  with  a  bear, 
wolf  and  turtle  (the  arms  of  the  three  clans  of  the  Mohawks)." 
The  property  described  as  on  the  north  side  is  the  old  Groot 
place,  now  in  possession  of  Francis  Morris,  and  that  on  the 
south  side  is  part  of  the  settlement  now  called  Kline. 

Having  in  mind  the  similarity  of  the  names  Adriochten  and 
Adriuche,  or  Adriutha,  I  made  strict  inquiry  among  the  old 
settlers  in  the  vicinity  of  Kline,  and  found  traditions  of  Indian 
occupation,  and  also  found  that  arrowheads  and  hatchets  had 
been  found  in  the  fields  and  woods.  Also  a  well  authenti- 
cated account  of  Indian  remains,  together  with  a  pipe  and 
other  articles  having  been  unearthed  in  this  locality,  between 
the  canal  and  the  railroad,  during  the  construction  of  the 
West  Shore  Railroad. 

Inquiring  of  Mr.  Oliver  S.  Kline,  whose  ancestors  have 
Hved  in  that  vicinity  for  about  a  century,  he  informed  me  that 
on  an  elevation  of  land  on  the  homestead  farm,  about  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  river,  and  in  a  field  that  was 
covered  with  woods  in  his  boyhood,  had  been  a  clearing  of 
about  three  or  four  acres,  and  in  this  clearing  were  several 
holes  about  four  feet  deep  and  perhaps  about  three  feet  wide 
and  six  feet  long.  (These  holes  were  undoubtedly  corn  pits, 
and  were  used  by  the  Indians  as  storehouses  for  their  grain  in 
winter.)  Between  this  clearing  and  the  edge  of  the  hill  that 
slopes  to  the  flats  below  on  the  river  side  were  to  be  found 
crystals  of  flint,  attached  to  much  rock,  that  appeared  above 
the  surface  of  the  sod  in  many  places,  also  chips  of  flint  in  the 
earth  near  the  rocks.    With  this  valuable  information  I  visited 


28  The  Mohawk  Valley 

this  field,  of  about  twenty  acres,  and  found  a  place,  which, 
with  my  limited  knowledge  of  Indian  sites,  seemed  to  have 
been  an  ideal  place  for  an  Indian  stronghold. 

The  plateau,  which  I  have  said  had  an  elevation  of  about 
one  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  was  protected  on  the  west  and 
south  by  a  deep  ravine  whose  steep  banks  were  not  very 
easy  to  ascend,  and  the  bed  of  a  creek  that  at  some  seasons 
of  the  year  and  during  heavy  rainstorms  becomes  a  short- 
lived torrent.  Two  ever-flowing  springs  are  located  in  this 
ravine  and  one  on  the  slope  towards  the  river,  and  an  ex- 
tensive fiat  and  islands.  About  a  mile  west  of  this  point 
is  the  Cowilligan  Creek,  which  runs  into  the  Mohawk  River. 

Gen.  John  S.  Clark  informs  me  that  the  word  Canowaroda 
probably  signifies  place  of  canoes  from  Canowha,  canoes,  and 
that  the  Indians  were  in  the  habit  of  placing  their  canoes  at 
some  nearby  creek  for  safe-keeping. 

Being  in  possession  of  this  information,  and  assuming  that 
Canowaroda — one-half  Dutch  mile  from  Onekagoncka — was 
located  at  Cowilligan  Creek,  I  proceeded  to  search  for  further 
information  in  regard  to  Onekagoncka.  From  the  fact  that 
Van  Curler,  on  December  12th,  speaks  of  travelling  eleven 
(Dutch)  miles,  which  would  be  thirty-three  English  miles,  I 
assume  that  he  meant  that  he  had  travelled  eleven  Dutch  or 
thirty-three  English  miles  from  Fort  Orange  (Albany).  As 
the  average  rate  for  his  whole  journey  of  twelve  days'  travel 
was  about  ten  English  miles,  he  could  not  in  one  day  travel 
thirty-three  English  miles  over  that  part  of  his  journey  that 
he  describes  as  being  the  most  difficult.  As  the  distance 
from  Albany  to  Amsterdam  by  railroad  is  thirty-three  miles, 
and  to  Kline  about  thirty  miles,  it  seems  to  me  that  we 
should  look  for  the  ancient  site  of  Onekagoncka  on  the  south 
side  of  the  Mohawk  River  and  on  a  hill  near  Kline. 

A  journey  to  the  State  Library,  and  an  examination  of  the 


Journal  of  Arent  Van  Curler  29 

Vanderdonk  map,  reveals  the  fact  that  Vanderdonk  located 
Carenay,  an  Indian  village  of  his  time  (1656)  on  the  bank  of 
the  Mohawk  River,  and  directly  north  of  a  small  lake  or  pond. 

("  Vanderdonk  resided  at  Fort  Orange  from  1641  to  1646. 
The  material  for  this  map  was  of  about  the  period  of  1635, 
and  may  have  been  the  map  of  Lacrock  (Lacrois)  who  accom- 
panied Van  Curler." — Gen.  J.  S.  Clark.) 

On  the  Amsterdam  section  of  the  topographical  map  of  the 
State  of  New  York,  we  find  the  pond  at  Mariaville  to  lie  directly 
south  of  Kline,  and  the  only  lake  or  pond  in  that  section  of  the 
country.  Most  historians  concede  that  the  Carenay  of  the 
Vanderdonk  map,  1656,  and  Onekagoncka  of  Van  Curler's  jour- 
nal, 1834-35,  are  only  different  names  for  the  same  castle  site. 

["  Previous  to  1642  the  village  had  been  removed  to  near 
Schoharie  Creek,  and  became  the  Osseruenon,  of  Isaac  Jogues, 
1642,  and  where  he  suffered  death  in  1646.  The  sites  of  In- 
dian villages  were  changed  frequently,  seldom  remaining  more 
than  ten  years  in  the  same  place,  and  frequently  not  more 
than  six." — J.  S.  Clark.] 

Van  Curler  did  not  enter  Canowaroda,  but  after  going  an- 
other half-mile  he  passed  a  village  named  Senatsycrosy,  with- 
out entering.  And  after  another  mile,  or  mile  and  a  half,  they 
passed  by  great  stretches  of  fiat  land,  and  came  to  a  castle 
which  he  calls  Wetdashet ;  and  immediately  after  he  says: 
This  Castle  is  named  Canagere."  "  In  this  Castle  are  16 
houses  50,  60,  70,  or  80  paces  long." 

December  20th  we  took  our  departure  from  the  second  Castle, 
and  after  marching  a  mile — came  to  a  stream  that  we  had  to  ]:)ass. 
This  stream  ran  very  fast,  besides  big  flakes  of  ice  came  drifting. 
We  were  wet  up  to  above  our  waists. 

This  would  seem  to  be  a  very  good  description  of  the  mouth 
of  the  Schoharie  Creek,  and  that  the  site  of  Canagere  must 
be  looked  for  two  or  three  English  miles  east  of  said  creek. 


30  The  Mohawk  Valley 

After  passing  the  creek  they  travelled  about  a  half-mile 
(Dutch)  and  came  to  the  third  castle,  named  Sohanidisse,  on 
the  top  of  a  very  high  hill.  This  would  seem  to  be  the  Scha- 
natissa  of  Vanderdonk. 

I  do  not  feel  competent,  from  my  limited  knowledge  of 
the  Indian  villages,  formerly  located  in  the  western  part  of  the 
county  of  Montgomery,  to  follow  Van  Curler  in  his  journey 
west  of  this  immediate  locality,  and  therefore  will  confine  my 
researches  to  this  vicinity,  and  wait  for  the  acceptance  or  re- 
jection of  these  conclusions  by  others  who  are  interested  in 
Indian  history. 

On  the  return  journey  of  Van  Curler  and  party,  when  they 
had  travelled  by  guess  (?)  two  miles,  his  guide  pointed  to  a 
high  mountain  (?)  where  their  castle  stood  nine  years  before, 
or  in  1625,  when  they  were  driven  out  by  the  Mohicans.  They 
were  undoubtedly  travelling  on  the  south  side  of  the  river 
where  the  high  hills  to  the  south  could  not  be  seen  until  they 
were  in  the  vicinity  of  Pattersonville,  where  the  high  country- 
called  Yantaputchaberg  may  be  seen  to  the  southeast.  As  the 
range  is  very  long,  and  of  nearly  uniform  height,  he  would  be 
imparting  very  indefinite  information.  The  hill  at  Kinaqua- 
rone  on  the  north,  however,  and  the  high  hill  to  the  east  of  it, 
are  said  to  be  rich  in  Indian  relics,  the  highest  point  of  the 
eastern  hill  in  particular;  and  as  it  is  situated  about  five  Eng- 
lish miles  east  of  the  supposed  site  of  Onekagoncka,  Carenay, 
etc.,  it  is  very  probably  the  site  of  the  ancient  village  de- 
stroyed by  the  Mohicans. 

General  J.  S.  Clark,  in  a  letter  dated  Sept.  5,  1898,  saysr 
"  There  is  no  doubt  whatever  as  to  the  site  described  by  you  ;  it 
is  certainly  the  Carenay  of  the  earliest  maps,  and  the  Onekagon- 
cka of  Van  Curler.  Carenay  was  indicated  directly  north  of  a 
small  lake  or  pond,  and  there  is  no  other  than  Maria  Pond  or 
Featherstonhaugh  Lake  anywhere  in  that  neighborhood." 


Journal  of  Arent  Van  Curler  33 

A  theory  of  Van  Curler's  journey  is  as  follows:  Van  Curler 
called  the  first  castle  of  the  Mohawks  Onekagoncka,  in  1634- 
35.  In  1642  he  again  visited  the  Jirst  castle  on  a  mission  of 
mercy  to  rescue  Jogues  from  death.  He  does  not  make 
mention  of  any  change  in  the  site  which  was  near  extensive  flat 
lands  and  fertile  islands.  The  Mohicans  had  been  driven  to 
Connecticut,  and  as  the  Mohawks  were  always  the  aggressors 
when  at  war  with  the  French  and  Indians,  they  at  least  had  no 
great  fear  of  an  attack  from  them  at  the  eastern  end  of  the 
Iroquois  Confederacy.  In  addition  to  the  above,  they  were 
near,  and  in  communication  with,  the  traders  at  Fort  Orange. 

In  1642  and  1643  Isaac  Jogues  was  a  captive  at  the  castle, 
which  he  names  Osseruenon ;  and  again  in  1646,  when,  as  he 
says,  he  was  led  naked  to  Gandawague,  the  place  of  his  for- 
mer captivity.  He  also  says  that  the  name  of  the  place  was 
changed  from  Osseruenon  to  Oneongoure,  evidently  showing 
that  the  names  of  the  Indian  castles  changed  frequently,  and 
not  the  sites.  On  the  Vanderdonk  map  of  1656,  made  from 
data  obtained  from  Van  Curler,  "  with  whom  he  resided  from 
1641  to  1646,"  is  an  Indian  castle  called  Carenay,  located  di- 
rectly north  of  a  pond  (Mariaville  Pond),  and  near  the  Mohawk 
River,  which  corresponds  with  the  recently  discovered  site  of 
Onekagoncka  at  Kline,  or  Adriuche.  If  Vanderdonk  obtained 
his  information  of  the  Indian  sites  from  Van  Curler  in  1656,  it 
is  evident  that  the  first  castle  was  then  located  at  Kline  and 
was  known  by  the  following  names  at  the  periods  mentioned : 

Onekagoncka,  1634-35,  Van  Curler. 

Onekagoncke,  1642,  Van  Curler. 

Osseruenon,  1642,  Jogues. 

Oneougoure,  1646,  Jogues. 

Carenay,  1656,  Vanderdonk. 

Adriuche,  1686,  Hendric  Cuyler. 

Kline,  1898,  W.  M.  R. 
3 


34  The  Mohawk  Valley 

In  1666  two  expeditions  of  French  and  Indians  visited  the 
Mohawk  country,  in  February  and  in  September.  In  Sep- 
tember, 1666,  they  destroyed  all  three  of  the  Mohawk  castles, 
together  with  their  stores  of  provisions.  It  was  probably  at 
this  time  that  the  Mohawks  moved  to  the  flats  at  Fort  Hunter 
and  Auriesville,  and  beyond,  as  they  had  good  reasons  for 
changing  their  location.  Vanderdonk  says:  "  The  Indian 
villages  changed  their  location  quite  frequently;  but  their 
castles  or  fortified  places  were  occupied  a  longtime,"  or  until 
they  were  destroyed  by  fire  or  by  an  enemy.  But  it  is  quite 
evident  from  the  foregoing  list  that  the  names  of  the  castles 
were  frequently  changed,  and  from  this  circumstance  a  confu- 
sion of  location  of  sites  has  probably  arisen. 

Parkman,  in  speaking  of  Labatie's  account  of  the  murder 
of  Isaac  Jogues,  says:  "  He  (Labatie)  was  the  interpreter  at 
Fort  Orange,  and  being  near  the  scene  of  the  murder,  took 
pains  to  learn  the  facts."  This  would  indicate  that  Osseuru- 
non  in  1646  was  not  far  from  Fort  Orange. 

It  is  generally  conceded  that  the  words  Gandawaga,  Caha- 
niaga,  and  Kanyea-geh  are  the  same,  and  that  their  definition 
is  not  "  At  the  rapids,"  but  "  The  people  of  the  flint."  Why 
"  of  the  flint  ?  " 

I  am  aware  that  the  above  theory  does  not  conform  to  pre- 
conceived ideas  of  Indian  sites  that  have  always,  more  or  less, 
been  mere  conjecture,  built  around  some  vague  statements 
that  in  some  cases  admit  of  different  interpretation;  but  it  is 
the  theory  of  a  student  in  Indian  history,  after  a  careful  re- 
search of  available  material,  and  without  being  hampered  by 
the  haze  of  preconceived  theories. 

The  Indian  history  of  the  Mohawk  Valley  is  very  interest- 
ing; but  the  section  between  Fort  Hunter  and  Hoffmans  has 
received  scant  consideration  from  local  historians,  whose  atten- 
tion has  been  directed  to  their  immediate  locality,  and  theories 


Journal  of  Arent  Van  Curler  2^1 

built  up  from  the  later  occupation  of  the  valley,  which  did  not 
extend  below  Fort  Hunter  to  any  great  extent. 

It  will  be  noticed  that  Van  Curler  gives  two  names  to  the 
second  Castle,  located  one  Dutch  mile  east  of  a  large  stream, 
"  where  the  flakes  of  ice  drifted  fast  "  (Schoharie  Creek). 
Wetdashet  and  Canagere,  going  to  confirm  the  fact  that  the 
names  of  the  castles  were  frequently  changed. 

In  locating  castle  sites,  one  thing  should  be  taken  into 
consideration,  and  that  is  that  the  Mohawks  were,  in  a  meas- 
ure, an  agricultural  people,  as  they  raised  corn,  beans,  pump- 
kins, and  tobacco  in  such  quantities  that  they  stored  it  for 
winter  use.  The  fertile  flats  of  the  Mohawk  are  not  evenly 
distributed  along  the  river.  The  bottom  lands  are  quite  wide, 
all  the  way  from  Schenectady,  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  par- 
ticularly so  on  the  south  side.  At  Adriuche,  or  Cranesville, 
are  fertile  flats  and  large  islands,  and  again  at  Fort  Hunter, 
Auriesville,  Fonda,  and  so  on.  The  river  from  Cranesville 
to  Schenectady  was  the  home  of  a  large  body  of  Mohawks, 
owing  to  the  fertile  flats  situated  along  the  river  bottom,  and 
from  the  fact  that  navigation  practically  ended  there,  and  the 
"  carry  "  over  the  trail  to  Albany  began.  Probably  the  reader 
is  aware  that  the  French  and  Indians  always  spoke  of  being  in 
the  Mohawk  country  when  they  arrived  at  the  upper  or  south- 
ern end  of  Lake  Champlain  and  Lake  George.  Saratoga  Lake 
and  vicinity  were  frequently  visited  by  Mohawk  hunting  and 
fishing  parties,  and  all  Indian  trails  from  the  north,  of  early 
date,  seem  to  lead  to  points  between  Hoffmans  and  Albany. 
Taking  all  these  things  into  consideration,  I  am  inclined  to 
think  that  prehistoric  sites  of  Indian  castles  should  be  sought 
for  between  Sandsea  or  Zandige  Creek,  and  the  Schoharie 
River, 

Van  Curler's  journal  seems  to  indicate  that  one  Dutch  mile 
east  from  Schoharie  River  the  second  Castle  of  the  Mohawks 


195308 


33  The  Mohawk  Valley 

was  situated.  Some  very  interesting  prehistoric  remains  and 
embankments  and  evidences  of  Indian  occupation  have  been 
found  on  the  flats  and  hills  at  the  Wemple  place,  near  Fort 
Hunter. 

One  of  the  earliest  and  most  tragic  events  that  is  recorded, 
of  the  advent  of  the  Jesuit  priests  in  the  Mohawk  Valley, 
occurred  in  this  locality,  the  massacre  of  Jogues  and  Goupil. 

In  all  the  early  expeditions  of  France  and  Spain  to  the 
coast  of  America,  the  priest  seems  to  have  been  a  very  neces- 
sar}^  part  of  the  equipment.  Some  of  them  were  from  the  order 
of  the  Franciscans  or  Recolects,  and,  later,  from  the  Society  of 
Jesus,  or  Jesuits,  as  the  disciples  of  St.  Ignatius  Loyola  are 
called.  They  were  found  with  Cortez  in  Mexico,  Ponce  de 
Leon,  Menendes,  Narvaez,  and  the  Frenchman,  Jean  Ribault, 
in  Florida,  and  Hernando  de  Soto  on  the  Mississippi.  Also 
with  Jacques  Cartier  when  he  discovered  the  river  St.  Law- 
rence, in  1535,  at  which  time  he  visited  the  Indian  villages 
Stadacone,  afterward  the  site  of  Quebec,  and  Hochelaga, 
named  by  Cartier  Mont  Royal,  from  the  mountain  in  the  rear 
of  the  Indian  village,  and  now  known  as  Montreal.  At  an 
early  period  in  the  history  of  ^^lontreal  it  was  also  called  Ville 
Marie.  They  came  again  with  Champlain  in  1603,  also  in  1609. 
But  among  the  first  of  the  long  lines  of  French  Jesuits  who 
made  the  conversion  of  the  Indians  their  life-work,  were 
Fathers  Baird  and  Masse,  in  1610,  who  were  joined  in  161 3  by 
Father  Ouentin  and  Brother  du  Thet,  and  in  1625  by  Charles 
Lalemant  and  Jean  de  Brebeuf. 

In  this  age  we  look  with  wonder  upon  the  records  of  the 
Jesuits  of  that  period  and  marvel  at  the  zeal  and  self-sacrific- 
ing spirit  of  those  pioneers  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church  in 
America.  Parkman,  in  speaking  of  the  Jesuits  of  Canada, 
says:  "  No  religious  order  has  ever  united  in  itself  so  much  to 
be  admired  and  so  much  to  be  detested."     "  A  fervor  more 


Journal  of  Arent  Van  Curler  39 

intense,  a  self-abnegation  more  complete,  a  self-devotion  more 
constant  and  enduring,  will  scarcely  find  its  record  on  the 
page  of  human  history,"  "  In  all  the  copious  records  of  this 
period,  not  a  line  gives  occasion  to  suspect  that  one  of  this 
loyal  band  flinched  or  hesitated."  The  fate  of  Jean  de 
Brebeuf  will  illustrate  the  perils  with  which  they  were  beset, 
the  ferocity  of  the  Mohawk  warriors,  and  their  hatred  of  the 
French  and  the  "  black-robed  "  Jesuits. 

With  your  permission  I  will  quote  from  Parkman's  Jesuits 
in  North  America,  to  illustrate  the  fate  of  many  of  these  de- 
voted priests.  Brebeuf  and  Lalemant  were  captured  by  the 
Mohawks  at  the  final  destruction  of  the  Huron  nation  on  the 
shores  of  Lake  Huron  in  1649.      Parkman  says: 

On  the  sixteenth  of  March  (1649) — the  day  when  the  two  priests 
were  captured — Brebeuf  was  led  apart,  and  bound  to  a  stake.  He 
seemed  more  concerned  for  his  captive  converts  than  for  himself, 
and  addressed  them  in  a  loud  voice,  exhorting  them  to  suffer 
patiently,  and  promising  heaven  as  their  reward.  The  Iroquois, 
incensed,  scorched  him  from  head  to  foot,  to  silence  him;  where- 
upon, in  the  tone  of  a  master,  he  threatened  them  with  everlasting 
flames  for  persecuting  the  worshippers  of  God.  As  he  continued  to 
speak  with  voice  and  countenance  unchanged,  they  cut  away  his 
lower  lip  and  thrust  a  red-hot  iron  down  his  throat.  He  still  held 
his  tall  muscular  form  erect  and  defiant,  with  no  sign  or  sound  of 
pain;  and  they  tried  another  means  to  overcome  him.  They  led 
out  Lalemant,  that  Brebeuf  might  see  him  tortured.  They  had 
tied  strips  of  bark,  smeared  with  pitch,  about  his  naked  limbs. 
When  he  saw  the  condition  of  Brebeuf  he  could  not  hide  his  agita- 
tion, and  threw  himself  at  the  feet  of  his  Superior,  upon  which  the 
Iroquois  seized  him,  made  him  fast  to  a  stake  and  set  fire  to  the 
bark  that  enveloped  him.  As  the  flame  rose,  he  threw  his  arms 
upward  with  a  shriek  of  supplication  to  heaven.  Next  they  hung 
around  Brebeuf 's  neck  a  collar  made  of  hatchets  heated  red-hot; 
but  the  indomitable  priest  stood  like  a  rock.  A  kettle  was  slung, 
and  the  water  boiled  and  poured  slowly  on  the  heads  of  the  two 
missionaries.  "  We  baptize  you,"  they  cried,  "  that  you  may  be 
happy  in  heaven,  for  nobody  can  be  saved  without  a  good  baptism." 


40  The  Mohawk  Valley 

Brebeuf  would  not  flinch,  and  in  rage,  they  cut  strips  of  flesh  from 
his  limbs  and  devoured  them  before  his  eyes.  Others  called  out  to 
him,  "  you  told  us  that  the  more  one  suft'ers  on  earth,  the  happier 
he  is  in  heaven."  After  a  succession  of  other  revolting  tortures, 
they  scalped  him;  when,  seeing  him  nearly  dead,  they  laid  open  his 
breast  and  came  in  a  crowd  to  drink  the  blood  of  so  valiant  an 
enemy,  thinking  to  imbibe  with  it  some  portion  of  his  courage.  A 
chief  then  tore  out  his  heart  and  devoured  it. 

Thus  died  Jean  de  Brebeuf,  the  founder  of  the  Huron  mis- 
sion, its  truest  hero,  and  its  greatest  martyr.  It  is  said  that 
he  was  a  noble  specimen  of  manhood,  being  of  great  size  and 
strength,  and  with  noble  features,  better  fitted  to  be  a  knight 
than  a  priest. 

As  Brebeuf  was  a  martyr  of  the  Huron  mission,  so  Isaac 
Jogues  may  be  called  the  martyr  of  the  mission  to  the  Mo- 
hawks. On  the  bank  of  the  Mohawk,  at  the  little  hamlet  of 
Auriesville,  the  society  of  which  he  was  a  member  has  erected 
a  shrine,  as  a  tribute  to  the  memory  of  that  noble,  self-sacrific- 
ing priest.  In  this  age  we  may  smile  at  his  belief,  and  at  some 
of  his  methods ;  but  we  cannot  help  admiring  him  for  his  strict 
obedience  to  the  dictates  of  his  conscience,  and  his  humility 
and  heroism  in  the  discharge  of  his  duties. 

It  is  said  that  he  was  born  at  Orleans,  of  a  worthy  family, 
January  lo,  1607,  and  at  an  early  age  entered  the  college  of 
the  Jesuits,  at  his  native  place,  and  at  the  time  he  was  or- 
dained priest,  in  1636,  he  was  an  exceedingly  well-educated 
man.  He  accompanied  a  fleet  that  sailed  for  Canada  in  April, 
1636,  arrived  at  Quebec  in  July  of  the  same  year,  and  was 
almost  immediately  assigned  to  one  of  the  missions  in  the 
country  of  the  Hurons,  being  one  of  the  companions  of  Father 
Brebeuf,  spoken  of  above.  For  five  years  he  labored  among 
those  savages,  suffering  all  manner  of  hardships  and  privations 
among  the  Hurons,  Tobacco  Indians,  Ottawas,  and  Chippe- 
was  (Ojibwas)  of  northern  Canada,      Returning  to  the  Huron 


Journal  of  Arent  Van  Curler  41 

country,  from  Quebec,  in  1642,  he  was  captured  by  a  war 
party  of  Agniers.  The  Agniers,  or  Mohawks,  were  located 
near  the  Dutch  post  of  Rensselaerwyck  (the  Albany-  of  the 
present  time).  They  were  noted  for  their  deadly  hatred  of  the 
French  and  the  apostles  of  the  Catholic  faith,  and  were  contin- 
ually at  war  with  the  Hurons  and  Algonquins  of  Canada.  In 
parties  of  from  ten  to  a  hundred,  they  would  leave  their  vil- 
lages on  the  Mohawk  and  descend  Lake  Champlain  and  the 
river  Richelieu  to  lay  in  ambush  on  the  banks  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence and  attack  passing  boats,  follow  the  trails  of  travellers 
or  hunters,  or  break  upon  unguarded  camps  at  midnight,  and 
often  in  large  parties  attack  the  palisaded  villages  of  their  en- 
emies. The  account  of  the  capture  of  Father  Jogues,  Rene 
Goupil,  and  Couture,  is  taken  from  the  Relations  of  the  Jesuits: 

In  the  early  morning  of  the  second  of  August,  1642,  twelve 
Huron  canoes  were  moving  slowly  along  the  northern  shore  of  the 
expansion  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  known  as  Lake  St.  Peter,  west  of 
Three  Rivers.  There  were  on  board  about  forty  persons,  including 
four  Frenchmen.  Jogues  sat  in  one  of  the  leading  canoes.  His 
oval  face  and  the  delicate  mold  of  features  indicated  a  modest, 
thoughtful,  refined  nature.  He  was  constitutionally  timid,  with  a 
sensitive  conscience  and  great  religious  susceptibilities.  He  was 
a  finished  scholar,  and  might  have  gained  a  literary  reputation;  but 
lie  had  chosen  another  career,  and  one  for  which  he  seemed  but 
little  fitted. 

Physically,  however,  he  was  well  matched  with  his  work;  for 
though  his  frame  was  light,  he  was  so  active  that  none  of  the  Indians 
could  surpass  him  in  running.  In  stature  he  was  the  opposite  to 
the  majestic  Brebeuf. 

With  him  were  two  young  men,  Rene  Goupil  and  Guillaume 
Couture — donnes  of  the  mission — that  is  to  say,  laymen,  who,  with- 
out pay,  had  attached  themselves  to  the  services  of  the  Jesuits, 
(xoupil  was  formerly  a  Jesuit  novitiate  at  Paris,  but  while  in  Quebec 
had  been  an  attendant  at  the  hospital.  His  surgical  skill  was  of 
great  help  to  Jogues  in  case  of  sickness  among  the  savages.  Cout- 
ure was  also  a  man  of  intelligence  and  vigor. 


42  The  Mohawk  Valley 

The  twelve  canoes  had  reached  the  western  end  of  Lake 
St.  Peter,  when  from  the  forests  on  the  bank  was  heard  the 
dreaded  war  cry  of  the  Mohawks,  mingled  with  the  reports  of 
guns  and  the  whistling  of  bullets,  and  several  Iroquois  canoes, 
filled  with  warriors,  bore  down  upon  Jogues  and  his  com- 
panions. The  Hurons  were  seized  with  a  shameful  panic,  and 
leaving  canoes,  baggage,  and  weapons,  fled  into  the  woods, 
but  not  soon  enough  to  prevent  many  being  either  killed  or 
captured.  Jogues  and  Couture  sprang  into  the  bulrushes,  and 
could  have  escaped;  but  seeing  Goupil  in  the  clutches  of  the 
Mohawks,  they  came  out  of  their  hiding-place  and  gave  thein- 
selves  up  to  their  astonished  victors,  rather  than  desert  a 
friend. 

As  Couture  advanced,  five  Iroquois  sprang  forward  to  meet  him, 
and  one  of  them  snapped  his  gun  at  his  breast,  but  missed  fire.  In 
his  confusion  and  excitement,  Couture  fired  his  ow^n  piece  and  laid 
the  savage,  who  was  a  chief,  dead.  The  remaining  four  sprang 
upon  him,  tore  off  his  clothing,  beat  him  with  clubs  and  with  their 
fists,  and  finally  tore  out  his  fingernails  with  their  teeth,  gnawing  his 
fingers  with  the  fury  of  famished  dogs,  and  thrust  a  sword  through 
the  offending  hand  that  had  fired  the  shot.  Jogues  broke  away  from 
his  guards,  and  ruslied  to  the  assistance  of  his  friend.  He  was 
dragged  away  and  beaten  with  war-clubs  until  he  was  senseless. 
Goupil  was  also  subjected  to  the  same  treatment  and  his  hands  and 
those  of  Jogues  were  badly  lacerated  by  the  teeth  of  the  savages. 

The  Iroquois  started  at  last,  ascending  the  Richelieu  and 
entered  Lake  Champlain.  On  the  eighth  day  they  ascertained 
that  about  two  hundred  Iroquois  (Mohawks)  were  encamped 
on  an  island  in  the  lake,  about  one  day's  distance  away. 
Reaching  the  island,  the  captives  were  forced  to  run  the 
gauntlet,  and  were  tortured  in  various  ways. 

Jogues,  the  last  of  the  line,  fell  drenched  in  blood  and  half 
dead,  but  was  forced  to  resume  the  journey  the  next  morning, 
and  on  the  loth  of  August  reached  Lake  George,  four  days' 


Journal  of  Arent  Van  Curler  43 

march  from  the  first  Mohawk  Castle.  The  hardships  of  this 
march  were  rendered  even  more  intense  by  the  want  of  food. 
The  nth  of  August  they  crossed  the  upper  Hudson,  which 
they  called  Oiogue  (the  river),  and  on  August  15th  reached 
the  end  of  their  journey. 

In  a  letter  to  the  Provincial  of  the  Jesuits,  at  Paris,  Jogues 
says: 

On  the  eve  of  the  Assumption  of  the  Blessed  Virgin,  about  3 
o'clock,  we  reached  the  bank  of  the  second  river  (Mohawk),  about 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  from  their  village  called  Os-se-ru-e-non. 
Both  banks  were  filled  with  Iroquois,  who  received  us  with  clubs, 
fists  and  stones.  When  satisfied  with  their  cruelty,  which  we  thus 
received  by  the  river  side,  they  crossed  the  river  and  led  us  to  their 
village  on  the  top  of  the  hill.  At  its  entrance  we  met  the  youth  of 
all  that  district  awaiting  us  in  line  on  each  side  of  the  road,  all 
armed  with  clubs, 

and  through  this  double  row  of  savages  the  captives  were  led, 
single  file,  Couture  in  front;  because  he  had  killed  a  chief, 
after  him  some  Huron  captives,  then  Goupil,  then  the  remain- 
ing Hurons,  and  at  last  Jogues.  Some  of  the  prisoners  were 
killed,  but  the  three  Frenchmen  managed  to  drag  themselves 
through  that  line  of  torture,  and  were  all  placed  on  a  high 
platform  in  the  middle  of  the  village.  They  were  kept  on  this 
platform  for  three  days,  and  were  then  led  in  triumph  to  the 
second  castle,  and  afterward  the  third,  suffering  at  each  a  repe- 
tition of  the  former  cruelties.  Jogues  and  Goupil  were  after- 
ward led  back  to  the  first  castle,  where  they  expected  to  be 
burned  at  the  stake.  Couture,  according  to  custom,  had  been 
adopted  into  one  of  the  families  and  taken  to  the  farthest 
town,  named  Ti-o-non-to-guen. 

About  this  time  the  Dutch  of  Rensselaerwyck,  which  was 
not  forty  miles  from  this  town,  having  heard  of  the  capture 
and   torture  of  several  Frenchmen,  desired  to  interpose   and 


44  The  Mohawk  Valley 

obtain  their  deliverance.  On  September  17th,  Arendt  Van 
Corlear,  commandant  of  the  fort,  Jean  Labatie,  his  interpreter, 
and  Jacob  Jansen  of  Amsterdam,  went  as  ambassadors  to  the 
town  of  An-da-ga-ron,  the  second  castle,  and  although  they 
made  flattering  offers  and  a  promise  of  two  hundred  dollars, 
they  were  unable  to  obtain  the  release  of  the  prisoners.' 

One  day,  after  they  had  been  in  the  hands  of  the  Mohawks 
about  six  weeks,  Goupil  attempted  to  make  the  sign  of  the 
cross  on  some  children,  but  was  warned  that  if  he  did  any- 
thing of  the  kind  he  would  be  killed.  Shortly  after,  Goupil,  in 
placing  his  cap  on  the  head  of  a  child,  attempted  to  make  the 
sign  of  the  cross  on  its  forehead.  The  grandfather  of  the  child 
detected  him,  and  as  Goupil  left  the  cabin  said  to  one  of  his 
nephews,  a  young  buck  just  ready  for  the  war-path:  "  Go  kill 
that  dog  of  a  Frenchman;  the  Hollanders  tell  us  the  sign  he 
has  made  is  not  good."  The  young  brave  was  only  too  glad 
of  the  order,  and  watched  to  catch  Goupil  outside  of  the  pali- 
sade when  he  would  be  at  liberty  to  kill  him. 

Shortly  after,  as  the  two  captives  were  returning  from,  the 
forest,  saying  their  rosary,  they  met  two  Mohawks  near  the 
gate.  One  of  them  raised  a  tomahawk  and  struck  it  into 
the  head  of  Goupil,  who  fell  on  his  face.  Jogues  fell  on  his 
knees  and  uncovering  his  head  awaited  the  same  fate,  but  the 
Indians  told  him  he  had  nothing  to  fear,  for  he  belonged  to  an- 
other family.'  The  body  of  Rene  Goupil  was  dragged  through 
the  village  by  the  children  to  a  ravine  at  a  considerable  dis- 
tance, where  they  flung  it  in.  The  next  day  Jogues  instituted 
a  search  for  the  body  in  the  ravine,  at  the  bottom  of  which 
ran  a  torrent.  Here  Jogues,  with  the  help  of  an  old  Indian, 
his  master,  found  it  stripped  naked  and  gnawed  by  dogs.     He 

'  /\i'latioiis  of  the  Jesuits  state  that  one  of  tlie  men  was  on  horseback — jirobably 
Van  Corlear. 

^  The  Mohawks  were  in  the  habit  of  giving  tlieir  prisoners  to  different  families. 


Journal  of  Arent  Van  Curler  45 

dragged  it  into  the  water  and  covered  it  with  stones  to  hide  it 
and  save  it  from  further  mutilation,  intending  to  return  the 
following  day  and  bury  it.  He  was  not  able  to  return  until  two 
days  after,  when  he  found  the  stream  a  rolling,  turbulent 
flood,  from  a  recent  storm,  and  the  body  nowhere  to  be  seen. 
I  quote  his  words  from  the  Relations,  in  a  letter  to  the 
Provincial : 

I  returned  to  the  spot,  I  ascended  the  mount  at  the  foot  of  which 
the  torrent  ran.  I  descended  again  and  searched  the  woods  on  the 
opposite  bank;  my  search  was  useless.  In  spite  of  the  water,  which 
came  up  to  my  waist,  for  it  had  rained  all  night,  and  in  spite  of  the 
cold  (as  it  was  the  first  of  October),  I  sounded  with  my  feet  and  with 
my  staff,  to  see  if  the  current  had  not  carried  the  corpse  further 
along.  The  Indians,  who  are  liars  by  nature,  told  me  it  had  been 
carried  down  by  the  current  to  the  river  near  by,  which  was  untrue." 

They  also  told  him  that  they  had  dragged  it  to  the  river 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  away,  "  which  I  did  not  know,"  be- 
cause no  such  river  existed ;  they  lied  to  hirn.  It  was  some 
young  Indians  and  not  the  torrent  that  had  borne  the  body 
away.  In  the  spring,  when  the  snows  were  melting  in  the 
woods,  he  was  told  by  some  Mohawk  children  that  the  body 
was  in  the  ravine  in  a  lonely  spot  lower  down  the  stream. 
There  he  found  the  scattered  bones  and  hid  them  in  the  earth, 
hoping  that  a  time  would  come  when  he  could  give  them 
Christian  burial. 

Jogues  remained  with  the  Mohawks  at  Os-se-ru-e-non  until 
July,  1643,  when  he  Avent  to  a  fishing-place  on  the  Hudson 
about  twenty  miles  below  Fort  Orang<;.  Having  learned  of 
prisoners  having  been  burned  to  death  t,t  Os-se-ru-e-non,  dur- 
ing his  absence,  his  conscience  smote  him  because  he  had  not 
been  on  hand  to  baptize  them,  and  he  urged  the  Indians  to  al- 
low him  to  return.  Reaching  Rensselaerwyck,  he  was  advised 
by   Megapolensis,    the    Dutch   clergyman    at    that    post,    and 


46  The  Mohawk  Valley 

others  not  to  return  to  the  Mohawk  Castle,  as  he  would  surely 
be  killed.  Taking  their  advice,  and  with  their  help,  he 
secretly  went  aboard  a  vessel  bound  for  Manhattan  (New 
York),  and  from  there  was  assisted  to  a  passage  on  a  ship 
bound  for  France.      In  1644  he  returned  to  Canada. 

In  1645  a  treaty  of  peace  was  confirmed  between  the  Iro- 
quois and  the  French  and  Algonquins  after  some  reverses  to 
the  Iroquois  on  Lake  Champlain,  which  treaty  was  broken  by 
the  western  tribes.  The  Mohawks  were  becoming  uneasy  and 
it  was  felt  by  the  governor,  General  Chevalier  de  Montmagny, 
that  it  would  be  policy  to  send  an  envoy  of  higher  rank  than 
Couture,  the  former  ambassador,  to  win  over  the  turbulent 
Mohawks. 

Jogues  was  chosen  for  the  task;  also  to  found  a  new  mis- 
sion, which  was  named  "  The  Mission  of  the  Martyrs." 
Jogues  for  the  past  two  years  had  been  at  Montreal,  and  as 
soon  as  he  received  his  orders  started  for  Three  Rivers,  which 
he  left  on  May  i6th  with  Mr.  Bourdon  and  four  Mohawk  de- 
puties and  two  Algonquins  as  guides.  Their  route  to  the  Mo- 
hawk country  was  up  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the  river  Richelieu, 
and  Lake  Champlain  and  Lake  George.  It  was  on  this  jour- 
ney that,  having  reached  Lake  George  on  the  eve  of  Corpus 
Christi,  he  named  it  Lac  St.  Sacrament,  which  name  it  pre- 
served until  1757.  when  Sir  William  Johnson  christened  it  Lake 
George  in  honor  of  King  George  II. 

From  Lake  George,  being  short  of  food,  they  crossed  over 
to  Fish  Creek,  ''  where  the  Indians  catch  a  small  fish  like  her- 
ring." (Jogues)  Borrowing  canoes,  June  4th,  of  the  Iroquois, 
they  descended  the  Hudson  to  Fort  Orange.  After  two  days' 
rest  they  continued  their  journey,  and  reached  the  first  Mo- 
hawk town  on  the  evening  of  June  7th,  about  one  day's  travel. 
He  says:  "  We  reached  the  first  castle  on  the  evening  of  June 
7th.      Its  name  had  been  changed  from  Os-se-ru-e-non  to  On- 


Journal  of  Arent  Van  Curler  47 

e-ou-gou-re."  Crowds  came  from  the  neighboring  Indian  vil- 
lages to  gaze  on  the  abused  slave,  who  now  came  among  them 
as  an  ambassador  of  power.  A  semblance  of  peace  was 
patched  up,  but  the  old  hatred  of  the  French  still  burned  sul- 
lenly, making  the  prospect  of  the  future  very  ominous. 

Hardly  had  the  business  of  the  embassy  been  finished  be- 
fore the  Mohawks  (probably  the  Wolves),  urged  them  to  de- 
part for  fear  some  of  the  western  tribes,  who  were  already 
preparing  for  a  predatory  raid  to  the  St.  Lawrence,  would  lie 
in  ambush  and  kill  their  Algonquin  guides,  if  not  the  French- 
men themselves.  Upon  his  departure,  Jogues  left  a  small 
chest  containing  his  scanty  outfit  and  a  few  religious  articles, 
expecting  to  return  soon  to  the  valley  and  establish  the  "  Mis- 
sion of  the  Martyrs  "  among  the  savage  Mohawks. 

On  the  24th  of  August  he  again  set  out  for  his  dangerous 
post  among  the  Iroquois  (Mohawks).  His  only  companions 
were  a  young  Frenchman  named  Lalande,  and  three  or  four 
Hurons.  On  the  way  they  met  some  Indians,  who  warned 
them  not  to  continue  their  journey,  as  a  change  of  feeling  had 
taken  place  in  the  Mohawk  towns  and  they  would  surely  be 
killed  if  they  persisted  in  going  there.  The  Hurons,  becoming 
alarmed,  refused  to  go  any  farther,  but  Jogues  and  his  young 
companion,  Lalande,  would  not  turn  back. 

The  reported  change  had  taken  place  owing  to  the  super- 
stitious ignorance  of  the  Indians.  The  small  box  left  by 
Jogues  seemed  mysterious  to  them  and  they  imagined  it  to 
contain  some  secret  charm.  At  this  time  a  contagious  disease 
was  raging  among  them,  and  many  of  the  Mohawks  were  dy- 
ing; besides,  the  caterpillars  had  destroyed  nearly  the  whole 
harvest,  and  this  they  ascribed  to  the  little  box  and  the  sor- 
ceries of  the  Jesuits.  The  trunk  was  thrown  into  the  river  un- 
opened, and  they  were  ready  to  wreak  vengeance  on  the 
supposed  author  of  all  their  woes.     A  war  party  on  the  march 


48  The  Mohawk  Valley 

to  Fort  Richelieu  came  upon  Father  Jogues  and  Lalande  two 
days'  march  from  their  village,  and  in  fury  fell  upon  them, 
stripped  them  of  their  clothes,  beat  them,  and  in  triumph  led 
them  to  the  first  castle.  Jogues  says:  "  I  was  led  naked  to 
Gandawague,  the  place  of  my  former  captivity."  This  place 
was  variously  called  by  Jogues,  Os-se-ru-e-non,  On-e-ou-gou-re, 
and  Gan-d^va-gue.  Here  they  cut  thin  strips  of  flesh  from  the 
back  and  arm.s  of  Jogues,  the  crowd  shouting,  "  You  shall  die 
to-morrow."  Of  the  three  great  clans  of  the  Mohawks,  the  Bear, 
the  Tortoise,  and  the  Wolf,  the  Bear  chiefs  were  clamorous 
for  his  death,  but  the  Wolves  especially  were  more  friendly  to 
the  captive.  However,  the  Bears  prevailed.  Francis  Parkman 
describes  his  death  as  follows; 

In  the  evening — it  was  the  eighteenth  of  October — Jogues, 
smarting  from  his  wounds  and  bruises,  was  sitting  in  one  of  the 
lodges,  when  an  Indian  entered  and  asked  him  to  a  feast.  To 
refuse  would  have  been  an  offense.  He  arose  and  followed  the 
savage,  who  led  him  to  the  lodge  of  a  bear  chief.  Jogues  bent  his 
head  to  enter,  when  another  Indian,  standing  concealed  within,  at 
the  side  of  the  doorway,  struck  at  him  with  a  hatchet.  An  Iroquois, 
called  by  the  French  Le  Berger,  who  seems  to  have  followed  in  order 
to  defend  him,  bravely  held  out  his  arm  to  ward  off  the  blow,  but 
the  hatchet  cut  through  it  and  sank  into  the  missionary's  brain. 
He  fell  at  the  feet  of  his  murderer,  who  finished  his  work  by  hack- 
ing off  his  head.  Lalande  was  left  in  suspense  all  night,  and  in  the 
morning  was  killed  in  a  similar  manner.  The  bodies  of  the  two 
Frenchmen  were  then  thrown  into  the  Mohawk,  and  their  heads 
displayed  on  the  points  of  the  palisade  which  enclosed  the  town. 

Thus  died  Isaac  Jogues,  one  of  the  purest  examples  of 
Roman  Catholic  virtue  which  this  western  continent  has  seen, 
Le  Berger,  who  tried  to  save  the  priest's  life,  had  at  one  time 
been  taken  prisoner  and  kindly  treated  by  the  French.  He 
showed  his  gratitude  by  his  unsuccessful  attempts  to  defend 
the  life  of  the  French  Jesuit. 


Chapter  IV 
Schonowe  or  Schenectady 

THE  Mohawk  River  practically  ends  at  Cohoes,  al- 
though its  juncture  with  the  Hudson,  through  its 
various  deltas,  is  made  at  Cohoes,  Waterford,  and 
West  Troy.  The  Mohawk  Valley  of  the  tourist, 
however,  begins  at  Schenectady  and  ends  at  Rome,  N.  Y. 

It  is  supposed  that  Henry  Hudson  ascended  the  Hudson 
as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the  Mohawk  in  the  small  boats  of  the 
Half  Moon,  and  that  the  falls  prevented  further  exploration  in 
that  direction.  The  Cohoes  Falls  at  that  period  must  have 
appeared  grand  and  beautiful.  At  that  point  the  Mohawk  is 
more  than  one  hundred  yards  wide  and  perfectly  rock-ribbed 
on  both  sides.  The  fall  is  nearly  seventy  feet  perpendicular, 
in  addition  to  the  turbulent  rapids  below. 

Before  entering  the  Hudson  the  river  is  divided  into  four 
mouths  by  three  rocky  islands,  Peobles,  Van  Schaicks,  and 
Green  Islands,  and  in  those  early  days  formed  a  scene  both 
beautiful  and  picturesque. 

The  earliest  maps  of  the  valley,  made  previous  to  the  set- 
tlement of  Schenectady  in  1661-69,  shows  an  Indian  village 
at  a  bend  in  the  Mohawk,  about  half-way  between  Schenec- 
tady and  the  Hudson  River,  called  Nsarcane  (Niskayuna), 
while  Schenectady  is  designated  by  the  word  Schoo,  and  also 
by  the  term  Flack-landt;  the  word  Schoo  being  undoubtedly 
a  Contraction  of  the  word  Schonowe,  "  the  gate." 

In  Professor  Pearson's  very  excellent  article  on  the  origin 

49 


so  The  Mohawk  Valley 

of  the  word  Schenectady  we  find  that  it  was  probably  derived 
from  the  Indian  word  Schonowe  or  S'Gaun-ho-ha,  meaning 
door  or  gate,  and  was  first  appHed  to  the  Indian  village  for- 
merly on  the  site  of  Albany,  meaning  the  door  or  gate  to  the 
long  house  (Iroquois)  or  the  Mohawk  country.  Afterwards  it 
was  applied  to  Schenectady  as  the  Schonowe,  or  gate.  Later, 
as  the  Indians  retired  westward  before  the  advance  of  the 
white  man,  the  same  name  was  given  to  Tiononderoga  (Fort 
Hunter)  as  being  the  gate  or  door  to  their  country,  and  from 
it  we  have  undoubtedly  the  name  of  Schoharie,  being  the  real 
door  or  gate  to  the  Mohawk  country. 

This  name,  "  Schonowe,"  becomes  poetical  when  we  re- 
flect upon  a  broader,  grander  application  of  the  term,  the 
"  Gate." 

The  Hudson  and  Mohawk  valleys  taken  together  are  the 
avenue  to  the  great  West,  although  the  early  settlers  did  not 
realize  it. 

First  the  Indian  trail  and  canoes,  then  the  bateaux  and  the 
stage-coach,  and  then,  after  long  years  of  waiting,  the  Erie 
Canal,  reaching  from  tidewater  to  the  Great  Lakes.  Then  the 
primitive  railroad  from  Albany  to  Schenectady,  Schenectady  to 
Utica,  and  then  on  to  Buffalo,  Chicago,  and  so  on  and  on  un- 
til now  the  iron  rails  passing  through  our  beautiful  valley  reach 
from  ocean  to  ocean. 

And  now  we  hear  of  the  building  of  a  ship  canal  in  the 
bed  of  the  Mohawk,  and  of  ocean  steamers  and  possibly  ves- 
sels of  war  passing  through  the  Mohawk  Valley  to  the  Great 
Lakes,  in  the  near  future. 

In  the  fifteenth  century  it  was  the  desire  of  navigators  of 
the  then  known  world  to  reach  India  by  sailing  west,  and  it 
was  with  this  object  in  view  that  the  expeditions  of  Christo- 
pher Columbus,  John  and  Sebastian  Cabot,  and  others  were 
fitted  out.     After  the  discovery  of  America,  even  up  to  the 


OLD    ST.    GEORGE  S    CHURCH,    SCHEMtCTADY,    I759 


51 


Schonowe  or  Schenectady  53 

voyage  of  Henry  Hudson,  the  desire  of  navigators  was  to  dis- 
cover the  "  northwest  passage  to  India." 

When  Henry  Hudson  entered  the  bay  of  New  York  and 
sailed  up  the  broad  river  that  bears  his  name,  with  its  tide,  he 
fondly  hoped  that  he  had  at  last  found  the  "  northwest  pas- 
sage," little  dreaming  that  a  great  continent  three  thousand 
miles  wide  lay  between  him  and  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

The  Indians,  with  their  limited  knowledge,  call  the  Mo- 
hawk Valley  "  Schonowe,"  the  Gate.  They  little  knew  how 
truly  it  was  named. 

Henry  Hudson  was  right,  however.  With  its  two  great 
railways,  its  Erie  Canal,  and  the  promise  of  a  second  Suez, 
with  its  millions  of  tons  of  merchandise,  and  myriads  of  tour- 
ists streaming  across  the  continent  to  meet  the  steamers  of  the 
Pacific  to  Asia,  the  Mohawk  Valley  may  well  be  called  the 
northwest  passage,"  the  Gate  to  India. 

Every  history  of  Schenectady  begins  with  a  quotation  from 
the  letter  of  Arent  Van  Curler  to  the  Patroon,  Killian  Van 
Rensselaer,  when,  in  1642,  he  returned  from  his  unsuccessful 
journey  to  Osseruenon  to  rescue  Father  Jogues:  "  dat 
Schoonste  landt  "  that  the  eye  of  man  ever  beheld. 

Then  we  read  of  Van  Curler's  efforts  to  organize  a  small 
colony,  and  of  the  purchase  of  the  "  great  flats  "  from  the  Mo- 
hawks in  1661,  and  its  settlement  in  1662,  also  of  their  troubles 
with  the  authorities  at  Fort  Orange,  who  declined  to  survey 
their  lands  or  to  give  them  the  right  to  trade  with  the  Indi- 
ans, and  the  final  adjustment  of  the  difificulty  in  1664. 

We  iind  that  the  settlement  was  successful  from  the  begin- 
ning, and  that  in  1670  additional  land  was  purchased  from  the 
Mohawks,  making  the  township  up  and  down  the  river,  six- 
teen miles  long,  and  eight  miles  wide,  the  western  limit  being 
the  Kinaquarone,  or  Towereune  hill  at  Hoffmans. 

The  land  west  of  the  "  irreat  flats"  was  divided  into  five 


54  The  Mohawk  Valley 

flats,  or  farms,  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  and  eight  flats  on 
the  north  side,  reaching  up  to  and  adjoining  the  present 
townships  of  Amsterdam  and  Florida. 

It  is  quite  interesting  to  read  the  names  of  the  original 
owners,  as  the   names  of  their  descendants  may  be  found  in 
nearly  every  town  in  the  Mohawk  Valley. 
South  side  of  the  river: 

First  flat:  Jaques  Cor.  Van  Slyke. 

Second  flat:  Jacobus  Peek  and  Isaac  De  Trieux. 

Third  flat :  Simon  Mabie,  Abraham  N.  Bratt. 

Fourth  flat:   Pieter  Vrooman. 

Cowillegen,  or  Willow  Flat:  Pieter  Van  O'Linda,  Chas. 
Williamse  Van  Coppernol. 

Flats  on  the  north  side : 

Claus  Graven  Hoek — Claus  Andrise  DeGraff. 

Maalwyck — Benjamin  Roberts. 

Second  flat:   Petier  Cornelis  Viele. 

Third  flat :  Jan  Janse  Joncker. 

Fourth  flat:  Lewis  Cobes  and  Johannes  Kleyn. 

Fifth,  or  Wolfe  Flat:   Jasaias  Swart. 

Sixth  flat :  Philip  Philipse  De  Moer. 

Seventh  flat:  Carel  Hanson  Toll,  Reyer  Schermerhorn. 

The  hardy  first  settlers  saw  perilous  times  from  the  very 
beginning,  and  must  have  been  endowed  with  an  abundance 
of  Dutch  grit  and  persistency  to  withstand  and  overcome  the 
dangers  and  vicissitudes  of  the  early  years  of  their  struggle  for 
existence.  For  more  than  half  a  century  the  frontier  town  of 
the  great  West,  and  surrounded  by  the  most  warlike  and  ag- 
gressive of  the  aborigines  of  America,  who  were  continually 
at  war  with  their  savage  kindred  and  the  French  of  Canada, 
this  little  band  of  frontiersmen  lived  in  continual  alarm,  from 
their  dusky  neighbors  and  their  neighbor's  foes.  Protected 
by  a  stockade  of  posts,  built  after  the  manner  of  the  castles  of 


Schonowe  or  Schenectady  57 

the  Mohawks,  which  we  would  think  inadequate  protection 
against  the  wild  beasts  of  the  forests,  they  lived  and  thrived, 
and  in  time  made  firm  friends  of  the  fierce  Mohawks,  and 
thereby  raised  a  human  barrier  against  the  white  and  red  sav- 
ages of  New  France. 

We  can  imagine  the  consternation  of  these  "  Dutch  Boers  " 
(as  Governor  Courcelle  called  them)  when  one  morning  in  Feb- 
ruary, 1666,  a  few  Mohawk  warriors  appeared  at  the  gate  of 
their  little  palisaded  village  with  the  heads  of  four  Frenchmen, 
and  the  information  that  an  army  of  six  hundred  men,  on 
snowshoes,  was  at  their  gates.  This  alarming  news  was  sent 
in  haste  to  Albany,  and  "  the  next  day  three  of  the  principal 
inhabitants  were  sent  to  the  commander  of  the  troops.  Gover- 
nor Courcelle,  to  inquire  of  his  intention  to  bring  a  body  of 
armed  men  into  the  dominions  of  his  Majesty  of  Great  Britain 
without  acquainting  the  Governor  of  these  parts  with  his 
designs." 

Governor  Courcelle  replied  that  he  had  come  to  seek  and 
destroy  his  enemies,  the  Mohawks,  without  the  intention  of 
visiting  the  plantations,  and  that,  indeed,  this  was  the  first  that 
he  had  heard  that  the  English  were  rulers  instead  of  the  Dutch. 

This  expedition  seems  to  have  been  the  most  foolhardy  and 
aborti\>e  of  the  many  raids  of  the  French  in  the  Mohawk 
Valley. 

Having  suffered  from  recent  incursions  of  the  Mohawks, 
Governor  Courcelle  and  M.  de  Tracey  organized  an  expedition 
of  retaliation,  consisting  of  six  hundred  French  and  Canadian 
soldiers,  and  began  their  march  to  the  Mohawks'  country  in 
mid-winter.  Their  route  was  through  the  Lake  Champlain 
Valley,  over  the  frozen  lake,  and  with  snow  on  the  ground 
four  feet  deep.  The  soldiers  were  all  provided  with  snow- 
shoes  and  the  provisions  were  loaded  on  light  sleds,  drawn  by 
dogs.     The  soldiers  suffered  greatly  from  cold,  and  through  a 


58  The  Mohawk  Valley 

mistake  of  the  guides  found  themselves,  on  February  gth, 
within  two  miles  of  Schenectady  instead  of  the  Mohawk 
castles.  A  party  of  Mohawk  warriors  appearing,  Courcelle 
despatched  sixty  of  his  best  fusileers  after  them.  These 
soldiers  were  drawn  into  an  ambush  and  eleven  killed,  a  large 
number  wounded,  and  the  balance  forced  to  retreat  to  the 
main  body. 

Although  the  Canadian  Governor  did  not  dare  allow  his 
soldiers  inside  of  the  stockade  of  the  poor  village,  or,  as  he 
said,  "  within  the  smell  of  a  chimney  corner,"  he  did  not  hesi- 
tate to  ask  that  care  be  given  to  his  wounded,  half-starved 
soldiers,  and  that  he  be  supplied  with  provisions  for  pay. 

The  next  day  seven  wounded  Frenchmen  were  taken  to 
the  village,  and  after  their  wounds  were  carefully  dressed, 
were  sent  on  to  Albany;  while  the  "  Dutch  Boers  "  carried  to 
their  camps  provisions,  such  as  they  had,  and  were  well  paid 
for  them. 

The  French,  being  refreshed  and  having  a  supply  of  pro- 
visions, put  on  a  bold  front  and  marched  away  in  the  direction 
of  the  Mohawk  castles;  but  when  well  out  of  sight  of  the  vil- 
lage, "  with  faces  about  and  great  silence  and  diligence  re- 
turned towards  Canada." 

In  October  of  the  same  year  Governor  Courcelle  and 
Tracey,  with  twelve  hundred  soldiers,  again  visited  the  Mo- 
hawks' country,  and  destroyed  their  castles  and  their  crops, 
but  did  not  succeed  in  killing  any  of  the  Indians,  who,  with 
their  families  had  fled  to  the  wooded  hills. 

The  Frontenac  expedition  of  1690,  which  resulted  in  the 
burning  of  Schenectady,  February  9th,  of  that  year,  was 
organized  at  Montreal  for  the  purpose  of  attacking  Fort 
Orange,  and  consisted  of  two  hundred  and  ten  men, 
eighty  of  whom  were  Caughnawaga,  or  Praying  Indians,  un- 
der Kryn,  a  noted  Mohawk  convert  to  the  Catholic  religion. 


Schonowe  or  Schenectady  6i 

As  in  the  expedition  of  Courcelle,  just  twenty-four  years  be- 
fore, they  suffered  severely  from  cold  and  lack  of  provisions. 
After  having  marched  five  or  six  days,  the  Indians  demanded 
of  the  French  their  intentions,  and  were  told  by  the  comman- 
ders, Sieurs  La  Moyne  and  De  Mantet,  that  they  were  going 
to  attack  Fort  Orange,  Kryn,  having  in  mind  the  disaster  of 
the  last  year,  inquired,  "  Since  when  have  you  become  so  des- 
perate ?  "  It  was  finally  decided,  however,  to  take  the  route 
leading  to  Corlear,  or  Schenectady,  instead  of  Fort  Orange. 

After  a  further  journey  of  seventeen  days  they  arrived 
within  two  leagues  of  Corlear  at  four  o'clock  P.M.,  and  were 
harangued  by  the  great  Mohawk  chief.  Shortly  after,  four 
squaws  were  discovered  in  a  wigwam,  who  gave  the  necessary 
information  for  the  attack  on  the  town.  At  eleven  o'clock 
that  night  they  came  wathin  sight  of  the  place  and  resolved  to 
defer  the  assault  until  two  o'clock  in  the  morning,  but  the  ex- 
cessive cold  admitted  of  no  further  delay. 

The  French  account  says: 

The  town  of  Corlear  forms  a  sort  of  oblong,  with  only  two  gates 
— one  opposite  the  road  we  had  taken,  the  other  leading  to  Orange, 
six  leagues  distant.  Messieurs  de  Sainte  Helene  and  de  Mantet 
were  to  enter  the  first,  which  the  squaws  pointed  out,  and  which  in 
fact  was  found  wide  open.  Messieurs  d'Iberville  and  de  Montesson 
took  the  left  with  another  detachment  in  order  to  make  themselves 
masters  of  that  leading  to  Orange.  But  they  could  not  discover  it, 
and  returned  to  join  the  remainder  of  the  party.  A  profound 
silence  was  observed  until  the  two  commanders,  who  separated  at 
their  entrance  of  the  town  for  the  purpose  of  encircling  it,  had  met 
at  the  other  extremity. 

Within  the  stockade  were  about  fifty  houses,  and  a  small 
fort  or  block  house  with  a  garrison  of  ten  or  twelve  men,  while 
the  total  population  is  supposed  to  have  been  about  two  hun- 
dred. Weary  with  the  festivities  of  the  early  evening,  the  vil- 
lagers   were    slumbering    peacefully,   unconscious    of    danger. 


62  The  Mohawk  Valley 

Suddenly,  and  seemingly  from  every  point,  on  earth  and  sky, 
arose  the  fearful  war  cry  of  the  savages,  mingled  with  the  ex- 
plosion of  firearms,  the  hoarse  shouts  of  command  in  a  strange 
language,  the  crash  of  timber  and  the  agonizing  cries  of 
women  and  children  under  the  fatal  blows  of  tomahawk  and 
knife.  Soon  the  fitful  flames  cast  a  lurid  glow  on  the  snow- 
covered  streets,  already  stained  with  scarlet  splashes  and  the 
dark  still  forms  of  the  unfortunate  Hollanders,  while  the  howl- 
ing, painted  warriors  dashed  hither  and  thither,  plying  blazing 
torch  and  reeking  scalping  knife  with  the  zeal  of  the  fanatic 
and  the  barbarity  of  the  savage. 

It  is  said  every  house  was  destroyed  but  four  or  five;  sixty 
men,  women,  and  children  were  killed,  about  the  same  number 
of  old  men,  women,  and  children  spared,  thirty  men  and  boys 
taken  prisoners,  while  many  hid  themselves  in  the  forests,  or 
fled  through  the  snow  to  Fort  Orange. 

Adam  Vrooman,  one  of  the  villagers,  saw  his  wife  shot  and 
his  child  brained  against  the  door-post,  but  he  fought  so  des- 
perately that  his  assailants  promised  him  his  life  and  liberty  if 
he  would  surrender.  His  son  and  negro  servant  were  carried 
away  captives. 

In  the  morning  a  small  party  crossed  the  river  to  the  house 
of  Glen.  It  was  loopholed  and  palisaded,  and  Captain  Glen 
was  prepared  to  defend  it.  The  French  told  him  they  owed 
him  a  debt  for  kindness  shown  to  French  prisoners  in  the 
hands  of  the  Mohawks,  and  that  no  harm  should  come  to  him 
or  his  kindred.  Even  two  or  three  houses  inside  the  palisade 
were  saved  from  the  flames  because  he  requested  it. 

The  alarm  having  been  given  at  Orange,  fifty  young  men, 
under  Peter  Schuyler,  proposed  to  follow  the  French  in  their 
retreat.  Reinforced  by  a  troop  of  iMohawk  warriors,  they  fol- 
lowed them  nearly  to  Montreal,  when  they  fell  upon  the  rear- 
guard, killing  and  capturing  fifteen  or  more. 


m 


UUUK    I.N    THE    GLliN-SANDEKS    HOUSE 


63 


Schonowe  or  Schenectady  65 

After  a  period  of  heartrending  grief  and  depression,  with 
true  Dutch  grit,  the  pioneers  set  to  work  to  rebuild  their 
ruined  village;  and  with  the  help  of  their  neighbors  at  Orange, 
and  the  friendly  Mohawks,  they  again  assumed  the  title  of 
the  frontier  town  of  the  West,  and  became  the  port  of  entry 
and  departure  of  produce  and  supplies  by  the  bateaux  and 
canoes  of  the  Inland  Lock  and  Navigation  Company,  until  the 
building  of  the  Erie  Canal. 

In  1819  occurred  the  "  great  fire,"  by  which  disaster  the  vil- 
lage— then  a  city — was  again  nearly  wiped  out  of  existence. 
The  whole  west  end  and  business  portion  was  destroyed,  in 
all  one  hundred  and  sixty-nine  houses.  There  was  little,  or 
no  insurance,  and  it  was  a  long  time  before  Schenectady  re- 
covered from  the  effects  of  the   great  fire. 

It  is  said  that  Arent  Van  Curler,  when  in  1642  he  returned 
from  an  errand  of  mercy  in  behalf  of  some  French  prisoners  in 
the  hands  of  the  Mohawks  at  Osseruenon,  wrote  that  he  had 
seen  "  the  most  beautiful  land  the  eye  of  man  ever  beheld." 
Just  one  hundred  and  six  years  later  this  "  beautiful  land  " 
was  the  scene  of  a  typical  Indian  fight. 

Travellers  on  the  New  York  Central  going  east,  if  they  sit 
on  the  left-hand  side  of  the  coach,  probably  have  seen  one  of 
the  oldest  houses  in  the  Mohawk  Valley  and  the  scene  of  the 
Beukendaal  massacre  without  being  conscious  of  it.  About 
midway  between  Hoffman's  Ferry  and  Schenectady  and  about 
forty  rods  from  the  railroad,  with  nothing  to  intercept  the 
sight  except  a  thin  fringe  of  trees  in  front  of  the  building, 
stands  the  Toll  mansion.  In  the  spring  and  autumn  its  dull 
yellow  color  shows  plainly  through  the  trees  which  in  summer 
time  nearly  hide  the  dwelling  from  view.  We  have  nothing 
to  do  with  this  dwelling  except  to  use  it  as  a  landmark  to 
point  out  the  huinble  historic  building  at  the  east  of  it  and 
known  as  the  DeGraaf  house. 


66  The  Mohawk  Valley 

Near  the  railroad  at  this  point  is  a  substantial  brick  coun- 
try schoolhouse,  to  the  west  of  which  is  the  road  that  leads 
past  the  DeGraaf  house  and  the  hollow  to  the  right  of  the 
road  in  which  the  fight  took  place. 

It  ought  not  to  be  called  a  massacre,  as  it  was  a  square 
stand-up  fight  with  the  whites  as  the  attacking  party,  who  on 
that  account  suffered  more  severely  than  the  savages. 

The  following  account  published  in  the  Schenectady  Demo- 
crat and  Reflector,  April  22,  1836,  was  gathered  from  tradi- 
tions  then  floating  about  among  the  aged  people  at  that  date. 

In  the  beginning  of  the  month  of  July,  1747,  Mr.  Daniel  Toll 
and  his  favorite  servant,  Ryckert,  and  Dirck  Van  Vorst  went  in 
search  of  some  stray  horses  at  Beukendaal,  a  locality  about  three 
miles  from  Schenectady.  They  soon  heard  what  they  supposed  was 
the  trampling  of  horses;  but  the  sound  they  mistook  for  that  made 
by  horses'  hoofs  on  the  clayey  ground  proceeded  from  the  quoits 
which  the  Indians  were  playing. 

Mr.  Toll  discovered  his  danger  too  late  and  fell  pierced  by  bul- 
lets of  the  French  savages,  for  such  they  were.  Ryckert,  more  for- 
tunate, took  to  his  heels  and  fied.  He  reached  Schenectady  in 
safety  and  told  the  dreadful  news  of  the  death  of  his  master,  and 
the  presence  of  the  enemy. 

In  less  than  an  hour  about  sixty  volunteers  were  on  the  march  to 
Beukendaal.  The  greater  part  of  these  were  young  men,  and  such 
was  their  zeal  that  they  would  not  wait  until  the  proper  authorities 
had  called  out  the  militia.  Without  discipline  or  experience  and 
even  without  a  leader  they  hastened  to  the  Indian  camps. 

Those  in  advance  of  the  main  body  before  they  reached  the  en- 
emy were  attracted  by  a  singular  sight.  They  saw  a  man  resem- 
bling Mr.  Toll  sitting  near  a  fence  in  an  adjoining  field  and  a  crow 
flying  up  and  down  before  him.  On  coming  nearer  they  discov- 
ered it  to  be  the  corpse  of  Mr.  Toll  with  a  crow  attached  to  it  by  a 
string. 

This  proved  to  be  a  stratagem  of  the  Indians  to  decoy  their  ad- 
versaries. The  Schenectadians  fell,  alas!  too  easily  into  the  snare 
laid  for  them,  and  were  in  a  few  moments  surrounded  by  the  In- 
dians, who  had  been  lying  in  ambush.     Thus  taken  by  surprise  they 


Schonowe  or  Schenectady  69 

lost  many  of  their  number  and  some  were  taken  prisoners  before 
they  could  make  good  their  retreat. 

They,  however,  succeeded  in  reaching  the  house  of  Mr.  DeGraaf 
in  the  neighborhood,  which  had  been  for  some  time  deserted. 
But  while  retreating  they  continued  to  fire  upon  the  enemy.  On 
reaching  the  DeGraaf  house  they  entered,  bolted  the  doors  and  as- 
cended to  the  second  floor.  Here  they  tore  off  the  boards  near  the 
eaves  and  through  the  opening  thus  made  fired  with  success  at  the 
savages  and  succeeded  in  keeping  them  at  bay.  In  the  meantime 
Dirck  Van  Vorst,  who  had  been  left  in  charge  of  two  young  Indians, 
effected  his  escape. 

The  two  youngsters  were  anxious  to  see  the  fight  and  secured 
their  prisoner  by  tying  him  to  a  tree  and  left  him  alone.  He  suc- 
ceeded in  getting  his  knife  from  his  pocket  and  cutting  the  cord 
with  which  he  was  bound.  On  the  approach  of  the  Schenectady 
militia  under  Col.  Jacob  Glen  the  party  in  Mr.  DeGraaf's  house 
were  relieved  from  their  perilous  situation  and  the  enemy  took  up 
their  line  of  march  for  Canada,  probably  along  the  Sacandaga  trail. 

In  this  engagement  twenty  whites  were  killed  and  thirteen  or 
fourteen  taken  prisoners  and  a  number  wounded.  The  bodies  of 
Nicholas  A.  DeGraaf  and  Jacob  Glen,  Jr.,  were  found  lying  in 
close  contact  with  their  savage  antagonists,  with  whom  they  had 
wrestled  in  deadly  strife. 

The  corpses  were  taken  to  Schenectady  the  evening  of  the 
massacre  and  deposited  in  a  large  barn  of  Abraham  Mabee, 
being  the  identical  one  now  standing  on  the  premises  (1883) 
of  Mrs.  Benjamin  in  Church  Street. 

The  above  account  is  interesting  because  it  shows  what 
perils  the  settlers  had  to  undergo  before  they  could  establish  a 
peaceful  home  for  their  families. 

The  DeGraaf  house,  as  seen  from  the  cars,  does  not  appear 
any  different  from  many  unpainted  weather-worn  houses  to  be 
seen  by  driving  a  few  miles  on  any  of  the  country  roads  that 
lead  from  the  city  except,  perhaps,  that  the  roof  is  higher  and 
more  pointed  than  those  erected  at  a  later  date. 

In  1706  a  new  fort  was  erected  near  the  site  of  the  old  fort, 


70  The  Mohawk  Valley 

and  called  the  Queen's  Fort,  and  from  that  time  until  the  com- 
mencement of  the  Revolution  was  garrisoned  by  British 
troops. 

From  a  Paris  document  we  find  the  following  description 
of  Schenectady  in  1757; 

Chenectedi,  or  Corlar,  situated  on  the  bank  of  the  Mohawk 
River,  is  a  village  of  about  three  hundred  houses.  It  is  surrounded 
by  upright  pickets,  flanked  from  distance  to  distance.  Entering 
the  village  by  the  gate  on  the  Fort  Hunter  side,  there  is  a  fort  to  the 
right  which  forms  a  species  of  citadel  in  the  interior  of  the  village  it- 
self. It  is  a  square  flanked  with  four  bastions,  or  demi-bastions,  and 
is  constructed  half  of  masonry  and  half  of  timbers,  piled  one  over 
the  other  above  the  masonry.  It  is  capable  of  holding  two  hundred 
men.  There  are  some  pieces  of  cannon  as  a  battery  on  the  ram- 
parts. It  is  not  encircled  by  a  ditch.  The  entrance  is  through  a 
large  swing  gate,  raised  like  a  draw-bridge.  By  penetrating  the 
village  in  attacking  it  at  another  point,  the  fire  from  the  fort  can  be 
avoided.  The  greatest  portion  of  the  inhabitants  of  Chenectedi  are 
Dutch. 

The  presence  of  English  soldiers  probably  suggested  the 
occasional  holding  of  the  services  of  the  Church  of  England 
for  the  English-speaking  residents,  as  the  Rev.  Thomas  Bar- 
clay, an  English  clergyman  and  missionary  to  the  Mohawks  from 
1 708-1 7 1 2,  says  in  1710:  "  There  is  a  convenient  and  well- 
built  church  at  Schenectady,  which  they  freely  give  me  the 
use  of."     (The  second  building  of  the  Dutch  Church.) 

The  natural  increase  of  the  English  population  as  the 
years  rolled  by,  called  for  a  church  of  their  own,  but  the  com- 
paratively small  number  of  English-speaking  people,  and  the 
lack  of  means,  delayed  this  for  years,  although  the  foundation 
was  begun  as  early  as  1759.  It  was  not  completed,  however, 
until  about  1767,  and  named  St,  George's  Episcopal  Church. 
It  is  said  that  the  Presbyterians  subscribed  to  its  erection 
with  the  understanding  that  it  should  be  used  in  common  by 


Schonowe  or  Schenectady  11 

both  denominations.  Sir  William  Johnson  is  known  to  have 
contributed  liberally,  and  also  obtained  subscriptions  from  his 
friends — at  one  time  sixty-one  pounds  and  ten  shillings  from 
the  Governors  of  Pennsylvania  and  New  Jersey. 

This  old  stone  church  is  still  standing  near  the  site  of  the 
Queen's  Fort,  beautiful  and  picturesque  in  its  time-worn  stone 
walls  and  quaint  interior  decorations. 

Eight  miles  above  the  city  of  Schenectady,  on  the  south 
side  of  the  Mohawk  River  and  situated  on  the  easterly  half  of 
what  was  termed  the  third  flat  in  the  original  division  of  land 
under  the  Schenectady  patent,  is  seen  to-day  an  old  brick 
house  known  as  the  Bradt  house,  erected  in  1736. 

This  house  was  built  of  brick,  front  and  sides,  and  wood 
in  the  rear.  In  1883  it  presented  the  forlorn  appearance  of  a 
vacant  dwelling  with  its  rotten  roof,  toppling  chimneys,  and 
broken  windows,  but  to-day  it  presents  a  scene  of  rural  beauty 
with  its  dormer  windows  and  frame  additions  and  general  reno- 
vation, with  the  aid  of  paint  and  putty,  together  with  its  set- 
ting of  foliage  and  flowers.  I  do  not  know  that  it  is  noted  for 
anything  but  its  antiquity. 

On  the  same  flat,  about  a  mile  to  the  west  of  the  eastern 
border  of  the  little  but  old  village  of  Rotterdam,  is  another 
dwelling,  called  the  Mabie  house,  which  holds  itself  remark- 
ably strait  and  prim  in  spite  of  its  age. 

It  is  situated  on  a  bluff  on  the  edge  of  the  Mohawk  and  at 
the  concave  side  of  a  bend  commanding  a  view  of  the  river  for 
a  considerable  distance  in  either  direction.  It  is  built  of  stone, 
with  steep  roof,  which  gives  it  the  appearance  of  being  one 
story  on  its  sides  and  two  stories  and  attic  on  its  gable  front. 

It  still  retains  its  windows  with  small  panes  of  glass,  the 
heavy  exposed  timbers  in  the  lower  story,  and  its  outside 
doors  in  two  parts. 

It  is  supposed  to  have  been  erected  about  1680,  making  it 


74  The  Mohawk  Valley 

the  oldest  house  in  the  valley.  On  its  south  side,  but  de- 
tached from  the  main  building,  is  a  structure  built  of  brick, 
also  bearing  the  impress  of  antiquity. 

From  its  large  brick  ovens  and  appearance  of  general  utility 
it  is  probable  that  it  was  used  as  a  kitchen  and  servants' 
quarters. 

Professor  Pearson  says:  "  In  view  of  the  fact  that  a  brick 
or  stone  wing  across  the  end  would  connect  the  detached 
building  and  afford  increased  space  with  all  modern  conveni- 
ences and  yet  preserve  unaltered  this  old  '  hofstede  '  to  the 
Mabie  family,  and  a  time-honored  landmark  in  the  Mohawk 
Valley,  its  destruction  would  be  regretted." 


wW 


«H^ 


m 

I    Mm. 


Chapter  V 

Immigration  and  Settlement  of  the  Palatines 

AMONG  the  earliest  settlers  of  the  Mohawk  Valley, 
after  the  Dutch  Boers,  were  their  kindred  from  the 
Palatinate.  We  call  them  kindred  because  they  also 
received  the  name  of  Mohawk  Dutch  and  assisted  in 
the  construction  of  that  almost  untranslatable  language  called 
"  Mohawk  Dutch,"  a  mixture  of  German,  Dutch,  and  Mo- 
hawk, making  a  dialect  that  when  found  in  public  documents 
proves  a  puzzle  to  philologists. 

The  Story  of  the  Palatines,  by  the  Rev.  Sanford  H.  Cobb, 
dedicated  "  To  the  Children  of  the  Palatines,  my  Old  Parish- 
ioners in  the  High  Dutch  Churches  of  Schoharie  and  Sauger- 
ties,"  is  very  interesting.  While  following  the  records  of 
history  strictly,  he  attempts  to  correct  many  impressions  that 
have  prevailed  in  regard  to  the  social  status  of  the  immigration 
to  the  banks  of  the  Hudson,  in  1710.  He  protests  against  the 
term,"  poor  Palatines,"  and  quotes  Mrs.  Lamb's  disparaging 
remarks  by  the  side  of  Macaulay's  description  of  the  people. 
Mrs.  Lamb  says: 

These  earlier  German  settlers  were  mostly  hewers  of  wood  and 
drawers  of  water,  differing  materially  from  the  class  of  Germans 
who  have  since  come  among  us,  and  bearing  about  the  same  rela- 
tion to  the  English,  Dutch,  and  French  settlers  of  their  time,  as  the 
Chinese  of  to-day  bear  to  the  American  population  on  the  Pacific 
coast. 

Macaulay  justly  describes  the  same  people  as  follows: 

77 


78  The  Mohawk  Valley 

"  Honest,  laborious  men,  who  had  once  been  thriving  bur- 
gers of  Manheim  and  Heidelberg,  or  who  had  cuhivated  the 
vine  on  the  banks  of  the  Neckar  and  the  Rhine,  their  in- 
genuity and  their  dih'gence  could  not  fail  to  enrich  any  land 
which  should  afford  them  an  asylum."  They  rather  resembled 
the  Huguenots,  as  they  were  driven  from  their  homes  by  the 
armies  of  France,  who  laid  waste  their  lands  and  destroyed 
their  cities,  and  the  persecutions  of  their  own  Palatine  princes, 
who  were  alternately  Calvinists,  Lutherans,  or  Romanists. 
They  came  to  this  country  for  freedom  to  worship  God,  and 
the  Calvinists  and  the  Reformed  built  their  churches  side  by 
side  on  the  Hudson  and  on  the  Schoharie  and  Mohawk.  The 
exodus  of  the  Palatines  bears  some  resemblance  to  the  exodus 
of  the  children  of  Israel,  from  the  fact  that  it  seems  to  have 
been  a  movement  of  nearly  the  whole  people.  Some  went  to 
Holland,  others  to  north  Germany;  but  the  larger  number 
found  their  way  to  England,  and  thronged  the  streets  of  Lon- 
don to  that  extent  that  they  were  lodged  in  warehouses  and 
barns,  and  in  some  instances  buildings  were  erected,  while  on 
the  Surrey  side  of  the  Thames  one  thousand  tents  were 
pitched,  and  the  generous  and  charitably  disposed  people  were 
taxed  to  the  utmost  to  provide  subsistence  for  this  destitute 
army  of  immigrants.  It  became  evident  to  Queen  Anne  and 
her  advisers  that  something  must  be  done  to  find  employment 
or  new  homes  for  the  wanderers.  About  five  thousand  were  ab- 
sorbed in  various  employments  within  the  kingdom,  while 
nearly  four  thousand  were  sent  over  to  Ireland,  and  about 
ninety-two  families,  or  in  the  neighborhood  of  six  hundred 
persons,  were  sent  to  the  Carolinas  in  charge  of  a  Swiss  gentle- 
man named  Christopher  de  Graffenreid,  a  native  of  Berne, 
who  named  the  settlement  Newberne. 

While  the  Palatines  were  yet  in  London  there  came  to 
England  an  important  delegation  from  the  province  of  New 


Immigration  and  Settlement  of  Palatines      8i 

York,  consisting  of  Peter  Schuyler,  then  Mayor  of  Albany, 
and  Colonel  Nicholson,  one  of  Her  Majesty's  officers  in 
America,  and  five  Mohawk  sachems.  Their  mission  was  to 
urge  the  need  of  more  generous  measures  on  the  part  of  the 
home  government  for  the  defence  of  the  province  against  the 
French  and  their  allied  Indians. 

"  The  arrival  of  the  sachems,  in  their  barbaric  costume,  oc- 
casioned great  observation  throughout  the  kingdom.  Crowds 
followed  them  in  the  streets,  and  small  pictures  of  them  were 
widely  sold."  The  court  was  in  mourning  for  the  Prince  of 
Denmark,  and  the  Indians  were  dressed  in  black  underclothes, 
but  a  scarlet  ingrain  cloth  mantle  was  thrown  over  all  other 
garments. 

The  English  and  the  Indians  alike  vvere  delighted  with  the  exhi- 
bitions. The  guards  were  reviewed  for  their  entertainment,  and 
they  were  taken  to  see  plays  in  the  theatres.  They  were  given  an 
audience  by  the  queen,  to  whom  they  presented  belts  of  wampum, 
and  represented  that  not  only  the  English,  but  the  friendly  Indians 
needed  a  more  efficient  defence  against  the  French.  The  reduction 
of  Canada  would  be  of  great  weight  to  their  free  hunting. 

It  is  said  that  in  the  walks  of  the  Indian  chiefs  about  the 
outskirts  of  London,  they  became  interested  in  the  homeless 
and  houseless  Palatines,  and  one  of  them  voluntarily  presented 
Queen  Anne  a  tract  of  his  land  on  the  Schoharie,  for  the  use 
and  benefit  of  the  distressed  Germans.  This  was  in  1709. 
The  next  year  a  colony  of  three  thousand  Palatines  under  the 
charge  of  Governor  Robert  Hunter,  as  "  servants  of  the 
crown,"  sailed  for  the  port  of  New  York  and  settled  on  land 
provided  for  them  near  the  Uvingston  manor,  and  on  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  Hudson  at  Saugerties. 

On  this  land,  and  under  the  direction  of  Governor  Hunter, 
they  attempted  the  production  of  turpentine,  resin,  or  pitch, 
which  proved  a  failure.     Becoming  dissatisfied  with  their  lot, 

6 


82  The  Mohawk  Valley 

which  was  only  a  little  less  than  slavery,  they  petitioned  to  be 
allowed  to  go  to  the  promised  land  of  "  Schorie,"  which  the 
Indians  and  Queen  Anne  had  given  them.  Permission  being 
refused,  they  rebelled  and  about  fifty  families  migrated  to  the 
valley  of  "  Schorie,"  as  they  called  it,  in  the  fall  of  1712.  In 
March,  1713.  "  the  remainder  of  the  people  (treated  by  Gov- 
ernor Hunter  as  Pharaoh  treated  the  Israelites)  proceeded  on 
their  journey,  and  by  God's  assistance  joined  their  friends  and 
countrymen  in  the  promised  land  of  '  Schorie.'  " 

They  had  hardly  got  settled  in  the  several  settlements,  be- 
fore they  found  themselves  again  in  trouble,  with  the  "  Gen- 
tlemen of  Albany,"  and  various  other  persons,  who  claimed 
the  land  by  earlier  grants  from  the  Mohawks.  Adam  Vroo- 
man,  the  surviving  hero  of  the  massacre  of  Schenectady,  was 
one  of  the  settlers  who  came  into  conflict  with  the  Palatines, 
also  Lewis  Morris,  Jr.,  and  Andries  Coeymans.  There  is  also 
an  account  of  their  treatment  of  Sheriff  Adams,  who  at- 
tempted to  serve  papers  on  some  of  the  Germans  without  a 
posse. 

The  first  attempt  brought  on  a  riot,  in  which  the  stalwart  Palatine 
women  took  an  active  and  leading  part.  Led  by  IMagdalena  Zeh, 
the  women  attacked  the  sheriff,  knocked  him  down  and  beat  him; 
then  they  dragged  him  through  the  nastiest  puddles  of  their  barn- 
yards, and  putting  him  on  a  rail,  rode  him  skimmington  through  the 
settlements  for  seven  miles  or  more,  and  finally  left  him  with  two 
broken  ribs,  on  a  bridge  well  out  on  the  road  to  Albany. 

These  continual  conflicts  made  life  a  burden  to  the  Pala- 
tines in  their  promised  "  Schorie,"  and  at  last,  despairing  of 
receiving  justice  from  the  authorities  at  Albany,  a  large  num- 
ber of  them,  in  1722,  accepted  offers  from  Pennsylvania  to  lo- 
cate in  that  province.  Probably  about  three  hundred  remained 
in  the  Schoharie  Valley,  some  having  already  settled  along 
the  Mohawk,  west  of  Schoharie  River. 


Immigration  and  Settlement  of  Palatines      S;^ 

I  have  before  me  a  list  of  some  of  the  Palatines  located 
along  the  Mohawk  and  Schoharie  rivers,  and  among  them 
find  names  belonging  to  the  most  respected  families,  who  are 
doubtless  descendants  of  those  sturdy  Germans: 

Becker,  Kneiskern,  Conrad,  Schnell  (Snell),  Nelles  (Nellis), 
Young,  Houck,  Angell,  Snyder,  Wagner,  Neff,  Newkirk, 
Klein,  Cline,  Kline,  Planck,  Bronck,  Timmerman,  and  a  host 
of  others. 


Chapter  VI 
Queen   Ann's  Chapel 

THE  delegation  spoken  of  on  page  8i  was  in  England 
in  the  year  1708.  At  an  audience  given  them  by 
Queen  Anne,  among  other  requests,  they  prayed 
that  Her  Majesty  should  build  them  a  fort  and  erect 
a  church  at  their  castle  at  the  junction  of  the  Schoharie  and 
Mohawk  rivers,  called  Tiononderoga.  This  she  promised  to 
do,  and  when  Governor  Robert  Hunter  arrived  in  New  York 
in  1 7 10  he  carried  with  him  instructions  to  build  forts  and 
chapels  for  the  Mohawks  and  Onondagas.  These  orders 
were  carried  out  as  far  as  the  Mohawks  were  concerned  and 
the  fort  named  Fort  Hunter,  but  the  Onondaga  Chapel  was 
never  built. 

The  contract  for  the  construction  of  the  fort  was  taken 
October  11,  171 1,  by  Garret  Symonce,  Barant  and  Hendrick 
Vrooman,  Jan  Wemp,  and  Arent  Van  Patten,  all  of  Sche- 
nectady. 

The  walls  were  formed  of  logs,  well  pinned  together, 
twelve  feet  high,  the  enclosure  being  one  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  square.  Surrounded  by  the  palisades  of  the  fort  and 
in  the  centre  of  the  enclosure  stood  the  historic  edifice 
known  as  Queen  Ann's  Chapel.  It  was  erected  by  the 
builders  of  the  fort,  being,  in  fact,  part  of  their  contract. 
It  was  built  of  limestone,  was  twenty-four  feet  square,  and 
had  a  belfry. 

S4 


Queen  Anne's  Chapel  85 

The  ruins  of  the  fort  were  torn  down  at  the  befrinning-  of 
the  Revolution,  and  the  chapel  surrounded  by  heavy  pali- 
sades, block-houses  being  built  at  each  corner,  on  which  can- 
non were  mounted. 

It  is  said  that  soon  after  the  erection  of  Queen  Anne's 
Chapel  the  Dutch  built  a  log  "  meeting-house  "  near  what  was 
afterwards  know  as  Snook's  Corners,  but  all  trace  of  the  build- 
ing long  ago  disappeared.  The  first  missionaries  to  the  Mo- 
hawks of  whom  we  can  find  any  account,  who,  under  the 
auspices  of  the  Society  for  the  Propagation  of  the  Gospel  in 
Foreign  Parts,  connected  with  the  Church  of  England,  sent  out 
to  teach  the  Indians,  were  the  Rev.  Mr.  Talbot,  in  1702,  fol- 
lowed shortly  afterwards  by  the  Rev.  Thoroughgood  Moore,  in 
1704.  It  is  said  that  the  Rev,  Mr.  Moore  was  driven  away  from 
Tiononderoga  by  the  Indian  traders  and  went  to  New  Bruns- 
wick, Connecticut.  He  was  so  scandalized  at  the  conduct  of 
Governor  Cornby  and  the  Lieutenant-Governor  that  he  re- 
fused to  allow  the  Lieutenant-Governor  to  approach  the  table 
of  the  Lord's  Supper,  for  which  act  he  was  arrested  and  im- 
prisoned in  jail.  He  succeeded  in  escaping  and  took  passage 
in  a  vessel  sailing  for  England.  As  the  vessel  never  reached 
its  destination,  it  is  supposed  to  have  foundered  in  mid-ocean 
and  all  on  board  lost. 

The  Rev.  Thomas  Barclay,  chaplain  of  Fort  Orange,  in  the 
city  of  Albany,  was  then  called.  He  labored  among  the  Mo- 
hawks from  1708  to  17 12,  and  was,  in  1712,  succeeded  by  the 
Rev,  William  Andrews.  The  parsonage  or  manse  was  built  in 
1712.  The  next  record  we  find  regarding  Queen  Anne's  Chapel, 
is  the  purchase  or  grant  from  the  Crown  of  a  tract  of  land  con- 
taining three  hundred  acres.  I'his  was  called  the  Barclay  tract 
and  was  granted  to  the  Rev.  Henry  Barclay,  November  27,1741, 
presumably  for  the  benefit  of  Queen  Anne's  Chapel,  and  was 
afterwards  known  as  Queen  Anne's  Chapel,  "  glebe,"  the  term 


86  The  Mohawk  Valley 

glebe  being  used  to  denote  lands  belonging  to,  or  yielding 
revenue  to  a  parish  church,  an  ecclesiastical  benefice. 

The  records  say  that  the  Rev.  Mr.  Andrews  was  no  more 
successful  than  his  predecessors,  and  in  1719  abandoned  his 
mission.  The  most  cordial  relations  existed  between  the 
ministers  of  the  Reformed  Dutch  Church,  who  also  sent  mis- 
sionaries from  Albany  to  the  Mohawk  Indians,  and  the  Epis- 
copal Church  in  their  Indian  mission  work.  After  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Andrews  abandoned  his  mission,  the  Church  of  England  had 
no  resident  missionary  among  the  Mohawks  until  the  Rev. 
Henry  Barclay  came  in  1735,  being  appointed  catechist  to  the 
Indians  at  Fort  Hunter.  His  stay  with  them  was  made  very 
uncomfortable  by  the  French  war  and  the  attitude  of  his 
neighbors.  He  had  no  interpreter  and  but  poor  support,  and 
his  life  was  frequently  in  danger.  In  1745  he  was  obliged  to 
leave  Fort  Hunter  and  in  1746  was  appointed  rector  of  Trinity 
Church,  New  York,  where  he  died.  The  Rev.  John  Ogilvie 
was  Dr.  Barclay's  successor.  He  commenced  his  work  in 
March,  1749,  and  succeeded  Dr.  Barclay  also  at  Trinity  Church, 
New  York,  after  the  latter's  death  in  1764.  Queen  Anne's 
Chapel  seems  to  have  been  a  stepping-stone  to  the  rectorship 
of  Trinity  Church. 

Sir  William  Johnson  and  the  Rev.  Mr,  Inglis,  of  New 
York,  obtained  from  the  Society  for  the  Propagation  of  the 
Gospel  in  the  year  1770,  the  Rev.  John  Stuart,  as  missionary 
for  service  at  Queen  Anne's  Chapel  and  vicinity. 

The  Rev.  John  Stuart  was  a  man  of  gigantic  size  and  strength 
— over  six  feet  high— called  by  the  Mohawks  "  the  little  gen- 
tleman." He  preached  his  first  sermon  at  Indian  Castle  on 
Christmas  Day,  1770.  He  had  a  congregation  at  the  chapel 
of  two  hundred  persons  and  upwards.  In  1774  he  was  able  to 
read  the  liturgy  and  the  several  offices  of  baptism,  marriages, 
etc.,  to  his  flock  in  the  language  of  the  Mohawks. 


Queen  Anne's  Chapel  87 

This  practically  is  the  end  of  our  knowledge  of  Queen 
Anne's  Chapel  as  a  church.  When  we  hear  from  it  again  it 
will  be  as  a  ruin. 

Right  here  it  may  be  well  to  give  a  description  of  the  same, 
as  a  church.  We  already  know  that  it  was  built  of  limestone, 
was  twenty-four  feet  square,  and  had  a  belfry.  It  also  had  a 
bell  which  was  afterward  placed  in  an  institution  of  learning 
at  Johnstown  and  did  good  service  for  a  number  of  years  until 
the  building  and  the  bell  were  destroyed  by  fire  a  few  years 
ago. 

The  entrance  to  the  chapel  was  in  the  north  side.  The 
pulpit  stood  at  the  west  and  was  provided  with  a  sounding- 
board.  There  was  also  a  reading-desk.  Directly  opposite  the 
pulpit  were  two  pews  with  elevated  floors,  one  of  which,  with 
a  wooden  canopy,  in  later  times  was  Sir  William  Johnson's; 
the  other  was  for  the  minister's  family.  The  rest  of  the  con- 
gregation had  movable  benches  for  seats.  The  chapel  had  a 
veritable  organ,  the  very  Christopher  Columbus  of  its  kind,  in 
all  probability  the  first  instrument  of  music  of  such  dignity  in 
all  the  wilderness  west  of  Albany.  It  was  over  fifty  years 
earlier  than  the  erection  of  the  Episcopal  church  at  Johnstown, 
which  had  an  organ  brought  from  England,  of  very  respectable 
size  and  great  sweetness  of  tone,  which  continued  in  use  up  to 
the  destruction  of  the  church  by  fire  in  1836.  Queen  Anne 
sent  as  furniture  for  the  chapel: 

A  communion  table-cloth. 

Two  damask  napkins. 

A  carpet  for  the  communion  table. 

An  altar  cloth. 

A  small  tasselled  cushion  for  the  pulpit. 

One  Holland  surplice. 

A  small  cushion  for  the  desk. 

One  larere  Bible. 


88  The  Mohawk  Valley 

Two  common  pra3'er  books. 

One  common  prayer  book  for  the  clerk. 

A  book  of  homilies. 

One  large  silver  salver. 

Two  large  silver  flagons. 

One  silver  dish. 

One  silver  chalice. 

Four  paintings  of  Her  Majesty's  arms  on  canvas,  one  for 
the  chapel  and  three  for  the  different  IMohawk  castles. 

Twelve  large  octavo  Bibles  bound  for  use  of  the  chapels 
among  the  Mohawks  and  Onondagas. 

Two  painted  tables  containing  the  Lord's  Prayer,  Creed, 
and  Ten  Commandments,  "  at  more  than  twenty  guineas 
expense." 

A  candelabrum,  with  nine  sockets,  arranged  in  the  form  of 
a  triangle,  an  emblem  of  the  Trinity,  and  a  cross,  both  of 
brass,  were  in  the  parsonage  many  years,  but,  regarded  as  use- 
less, were,  in  our  late  civil  war,  melted  and  sold  for  old  metal. 

In  1877  the  manse  was  still  standing  and  in  a  fair  state  of 
preservation,  though  parts  of  the  woodwork  showed  signs  of  de- 
cay. At  the  present  time  it  has  the  appearance  of  a  very  dura- 
ble stone  building  with  main  entrance  to  the  south.  It  is  two 
stories  high  and  about  twenty-five  by  thirty-five  feet  in  size. 
The  walls  are  thick,  making  the  recesses  of  the  quaint  old 
windows  very  deep,  the  glass  being  six  by  eight  and  the  sash 
in  one  piece.  The  glass  for  the  windows  and  the  bricks  for 
the  single  large  chimney  were  brought  from  Holland.  On  the 
east  end  of  the  building  and  over  the  cellar  arch  the  characters 
**  1712  "  are  still  legible. 

In  1888  the  late  owner,  Mr.  DeWitt  Devendorf,  repaired 
the  old  parsonage  and  tore  down  the  old  chimney  and  very 
thoughtfully  presented  about  fifty  of  the  old  Dutch  brick  to 
St.  Ann's  Church,  Amsterdam,  N.  Y. ,  the  lineal  descendant 


f^B^'P'ni'^'W^^f^^^' 


Queen  Anne's  Chapel  91 

of  Queen  Anne's  Chapel  and  the  principal  recipient  of  the 
funds  derived  from  the  sale  of  the  old  glebe  farms. 

On  June  8,  1790,  Rev.  Mr.  Ellison  preached  at  Fort  Hunter. 
He  says:  "  The  church  is  in  a  wretched  condition,  the  pulpit, 
reading-desk,  and  two  of  the  pews  only  being  left,  the  win- 
dows being  destroyed,  the  floor  demolished,  and  the  walls 
cracked." 

Except  on  a  few  occasions  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Dempster,  the 
chapel  had  not  been  used  for  a  number  of  years,  when  it  was 
demolished  about  the  year  1820,  to  give  place  to  the  Erie 
Canal.  The  roof  was  burned  off  to  get  its  stone  walls,  the 
stone  being  used  in  constructing  guard-locks  for  the  canal 
near  its  site.  It  is  said  that  at  the  beginning  of  the  Revolu- 
tion the  silver  service,  curtains,  fringes,  gold  lace,  and  other 
fixtures  of  the  chapel  were  put  in  a  hogshead  by  the  Mohawks 
and  buried  on  the  side  of  the  hill  south  of  the  Boyd  Hudson 
Place  near  Auriesville,  N.  Y.  At  the  close  of  the  war,  when 
found  by  sounding  with  irons  rods,  it  was  discovered  that  the 
silver  service  had  been  removed  and  the  cask  reburied,  but  by 
whom  or  when  it  was  never  known.  Most  of  the  articles  re- 
maining were  so  damaged  by  moisture  as  to  be  unfit  for  use. 

The  question  is  often  asked  why  was  not  the  old  canal  con- 
structed in  the  same  straight  line  that  the  new  canal  follows  in 
passing  through  Fort  Hunter  ?  At  the  time  the  old  canal  was 
built,  about  1820,  there  was  a  bridge  across  the  Schoharie  just 
above  the  chapel,  and  the  channel  was  diverted  from  a  straight 
line,  passed  through  the  site  of  the  chapel,  and  the  building 
destroyed  in  order  to  make  use  of  the  bridge  in  towing  the 
boats  across  the  stream  at  this  point,  as  it  was  deemed  more 
economical  to  destroy  this  historic  landmark  than  go  to  the 
expense  of  building  a  new  bridge. 

Commenting  upon  this  act  at  the  present  time  we  call  it 
vandalism,  but  you  must  remember  that  in  those  days  there 


92  The  Mohawk  Valley 

were  no  churchmen  in  that  locality,  and  that  its  roof  had  been 
a  "  refuge  from  the  storm  "  for  the  sheep  and  cattle  that  were 
pastured  on  the  land  near  by.  For  years  the  voice  of  prayer 
and  thanksgiving  had  been  hushed,  and  instead  of  the  solemn 
notes  of  the  deep-toned  organ  within  walls  that  had  echoed 
alike  to  the  song  of  praise  and  the  war  cry  of  the  Mohawks, 
naught  was  heard  but  the  lowing  of  cattle  and  the  plaintive  call 
of  the  sheep  for  its  young.  We  condemn  this  act  of  vandalism, 
but  are  we  in  our  day  any  more  careful  to  preserve  the  old  land- 
marks around  which  cling  so  many  sweet  and  tender  memories. 

With  the  assistance  of  Trinity  Church,  New  York,  an  Epis- 
copal church  was  erected  in  1835  at  Port  Jackson,  (the 
present  fifth  ward  of  Amsterdam,  N.  Y.),  and  maintained  with 
the  assistance  of  funds  derived  from  the  sale  of  Queen  Anne 
Chapel  glebe  farms.     This  church  was  named  St.  Ann. 

The  church  of  Port  Jackson  seems  to  have  had  a  hard 
struggle  for  existence,  probably  on  account  of  its  locality. 
During  the  rectorship  of  Rev.  A.  N.  Littlejohn  (the  lately 
deceased  Bishop  of  Long  Island)  the  edifice  was  sold  and 
steps  taken  to  erect  a  stone  building  on  Division  Street, 
Amsterdam,   N.  Y. 

The  building  of  this  little  stone  church  marked  an  era  in 
church  building  in  Amsterdam,  which  previous  to  its  erection 
were  of  the  plain,  unpretentious  style  of  the  fore  part  of  the 
nineteenth  century.  Even  in  its  unfinished  state,  no  one 
could  look  at  its  gray  walls  and  Gothic  arches  without  seeing 
its  possibilities  for  beauty  when  completed.  The  building  of 
185 1  was  of  Gothic  style,  the  nave  only  being  constructed. 
A  wide  aisle  in  the  centre  led  up  to  the  narrow  chancel  in  the 
north  end.  The  chancel  rail  enclosed  the  altar-table  with  a 
modest  reredos  behind  it  and  the  reading-desk  on  the  west  side 
of  it.  Outside  of  the  rail,  and  a  little  in  advance  from  it  on  the 
east  side,  stood  a  small  octagonal  elevated  pulpit.    In  the  rear. 


Queen  Anne's  Chapel  93 

or  south  end,  of  the  church  and  over  the  vestibule,  the  choir 
was  located.  The  first  organ,  purchased  in  1841,  was 
bought  in  New  York  City,  was  second  hand,  and  the  name 
of  the  maker  has  been  forgotten.  A  new  organ  was  purchased 
in  1874  of  Johnson  and  Co.,  Westfield,  Mass.,  for  $1500. 
This  organ  is  still  in  use  in  the  new  church. 

The  present  edifice  was  repaired  and  enlarged  in  1888  to 
accommodate  a  largely  increased  congregation.  The  interior 
is  spacious,  the  whole  depth  being  about  one  hundred  and 
thirty  feet,  and  width  sixty-five  feet,  with  nave,  north  and 
south  aisles,  and  choir.  It  is  lighted  with  numerous  windows 
painted  to  represent  scenes  in  the  life  of  Christ  and  emblems 
of  Christianity.  All,  or  nearly  all,  of  the  windows  are  in  me- 
moriam  and  are  beautifully  executed. 

Approaching  the  church  from  the  east  the  eye  rests  on  the 
green,  well-kept  lawn,  with  here  and  there  a  tall  maple  or  elm 
springing  from  its  surface  in  pleasing  irregularity.  Through 
their  branches  we  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  little  stone  church 
and  tower,  which  partially  hides  from  view  the  main  body  of 
the  edifice.  Then  we  see  a  portion  of  the  stone  pillars  of  a 
•Grecian  porch  with  its  iron  railings  and  gateway.  A  few 
steps  more  and  the  panorama  is  complete  and  the  whole  south 
front  of  the  church  is  in  view.  The  gray  walls  of  the  older 
portion  when  compared  to  the  completed  church  is  "  as  moon- 
light unto  sunlight  and  as  water  unto  wine." 

The  dull  red  of  the  superstructure,  the  rough  ashler  of  the 
gray  stone  walls  peeping  through  the  dense  foliage  of  the  Jap- 
anese ivy,  the  green  carpet  of  the  lawn,  dotted  here  and  there 
with  trees  of  venerable  age,  whose  branches  "  half  conceal  yet 
half  reveal"  the  grandeur  of  the  completed  edifice,  make  a 
picture  that  no  artist  can  ever  reproduce. 

As  the  visitor  enters  the  church  at  the  western  or  main  en- 
trance, the   heavy  oaken    doors  and   bare   stone   walls  of   the 


94-  The  Mohawk  Valley 

vestibule  impress  one  with  the  idea  of  soHdity,  and  the  view  of 
the  interior  after  passing  the  swinging  baize  doors,  is  in  a  de- 
gree a  surprise.  The  low  aisles  on  each  side  with  slender 
pillars,  and  the  lofty  nave  with  its  graceful  arches,  with  colors 
of  gray  and  brown,  and  blue  and  brilHant  tints  of  the  beautiful 
windows,  give  a  feeling  of  rest  to  the  beholder;  and  as  the  eye 
wanders  and  is  finally  held  by  the  graceful  choir,  a  little  som- 
bre perhaps,  in  the  distance,  relieved  somewhat  by  the  glitter 
of  lecturn  and  pulpit,  its  churchliness  impresses  one,  and  the 
thought  of  the  visitor  might  well  be,  "  truly  this  is  the  house 
of  God." 

From  Oronhyatekha,  the  Supreme  Chief  Ranger  of  the 
Foresters  of  Canada  and  descendant  from  the  Mohawks  of 
Tiononderoga,  and  from  Rev.  R.  Ashton,  the  present  incum- 
bent of  the  Mohawk  Church  at  Brantford,  Ontario,  Canada,  I 
have  received  the  following  information: 

It  appears  that  the  communion  service  that  Queen  Anne 
sent  to  the  Mohawks  Vv'as  buried  on  their  old  reservation  at 
Fort  Hunter  during  the  Revolution,  and  remained  there  some 
years  or  until  the  Mohawks  became  settled  in  the  reservation 
near  Brantford  (1785),  and  on  the  Bay  of  Ouinte;  then  a  party 
was  sent  back,  resurrected  the  plate,  and  brought  it  back  to 
Canada.  For  a  period  of  twenty-two  years  prior  to  July, 
1897,  the  plate  was  safely  kept  by  Mrs.  J.  M,  Hill,  the  grand- 
daughter of  the  celebrated  chief,  Capt.  Joseph  Brant,  whose 
mother  was  the  original  custodian,  having  kept  it  from  the 
time  of  its  arrival  in  Canada  till  her  death. 

Of  course  the  custodian  was  required  to  take  the  com- 
munion plate  to  the  church  on  communion  days. 

Later  the  Mohawks  were  presented  with  a  communion  set, 
after  which  the  Queen  Anne  plate  was  only  used  on  state 
occasions. 

In  1785  some  of  the  Mohawks  settled  at  the  Bay  of  Quinte 


Queen  Anne's  Chapel  97 

and  the  larger  body  on  Grand  River,  Brantford.  The  Rev. 
John  Stuart,  D.D.,  who  had  been  their  missionary  at  Fort 
Hunter  and  fled  to  Canada  with  the  Indians  and  Tories,  was 
appointed  to  the  charge  of  both  bands,  and  a  church  was  built 
at  both  places  by  King  George  III,  The  plate  was  then 
divided;  it  consisted  of  seven  pieces,  two  flagons,  two  chal- 
ices, two  patens,  and  one  alms  basin. 

To  the  Grand  River  band  was  given  the  alms  basin  and  one 
each  of  the  other  pieces,  also  a  large  Bible. 

The  Indians  at  the  Bay  of  Quinte  have  a  flagon,  paten, 
and  chalice  in  the  hands  of  Mrs.  John  Hill,  at  Deseronto, 
Canada,  The  chalice  at  Grand  River  is  much  bent,  the  other 
pieces  are  in  good  order,  as  is  also  the  Bible.  Each  piece  of 
plate  is  inscribed:  "  The  Gift  of  Her  Majesty  Ann,  by  the 
Grace  of  God,  of  Great  Britain,  ffrance  and  Ireland  and  Her 
Plantations  in  North  America,  Queen,  to  Her  Indian  Chappel 
of  the  Mohawks."  The  Bible,  printed  in  1701,  is  in  good  con- 
dition and  bears  on  the  cover,  "  For  Her  Majesty's  Church  of 
the  Mohawks,  1712." 

This  plate  has  a  value  aside  from  its  intrinsic  value,  as  ex- 
plained by  Rev.  R.  Ashton : 

You  are  probably  aware  that  all  pure  silver  plate  manufactured 
in  England  is  stamped  by  the  Government,  which  stamp  is  called 
the  "  hall  mark,"  which  indicates  that  the  article  is  of  standard  sil- 
ver or  standard  gold.  From  March,  1696,  to  June,  1720,  Britannia 
and  the  lion's  head  erased,  were  substituted  for  leopard's  head 
crowned  and  the  lion  passant  on  silver,  which  both  before  and 
since  have  been  in  use  as  the  "  hall  mark."  All  silver  bearing  the 
former  mark  (and  it  is  plainly  seen  on  every  piece  of  the  Mohawk 
and  Onondaga  silver),  is  greatly  prized,  and  is  termed  Queen  Anne 
silver. 


Chapter  VII 
Count  Frontenac  and  the  Mohawk  Valley 

COUNT  DE  FRONTENAC,  who  was  twice  Governor 
of  Canada,  is  so  closely  connected  with  the  history 
of  the  Mohawk  Valley  by  his  warlike  expeditions 
against  the  Iroquois  and  the  massacre  of  the  inhabi- 
tants of  Schenectady,  that  we  cannot  write  the  history  of  the 
valley  without  frequent  mention  of  his  name. 

He  was  born  in  France  in  1620,  and  in  early  manhood 
served  in  the  French  army  and  distinguished  himself  in  a  war 
against  the  Turks.  In  1648  he  married  Anne  de  LaGrange 
Trianon  against  her  father's  wishes.  She  was  a  favorite  com- 
panion of  Mademoiselle  de  Montpensier,  Princess  of  Orleans, 
and  was  one  of  the  beauties  of  the  Court  of  Louis  XV.  The 
happiness  of  the  newly  wedded  pair  was  of  short  duration,  as 
love,  on  her  part  at  least,  soon  changed  to  aversion,  and  after 
the  birth  of  a  son,  the  countess  left  her  husband,  to  follow  the 
fortunes  of  Mademoiselle  de  Montpensier. 

In  1672  Count  de  Frontenac  received  the  appointment  of 
Governor  of  all  New  France. 

It  is  said  that  he  accepted  the  appointment  to  deliver  him- 
self from  the  imperious  temper  of  his  wife  and  afford  him  some 
means  of  living.  Another  story  is  that  he  had  found  favor  in 
the  eyes  of  Madame  de  Montespan,  one  of  the  favorites  of 
Louis  XIV.,  and  the  jealous  King  appointed  him  Governor  of 
New  France  to  get  him  away  from  Madame. 

Frontenac's  administration  was  vigorous  and  satisfactory. 


Count  Frontenac  and  the  Mohawk  Valley    99 

but  coming  in  contact  with  the  Jesuits  was  recalled  in  1681, 
and  a  new  Governor,  named  La  Fevre  de  la  Barre,  appointed 
in  his  place. 

The  affairs  of  New  France  soon  going  from  bad  to  worse 
under  the  new  administration  of  LaBarre,  he  was  also  recalled, 
and  Marquis  de  Denonvi^le  assumed  the  vacant  of^ce.  The  new 
Governor  soon  found  himself  involved  in  a  war  with  the  Iro- 
quois of  such  magnitude  that  the  colony  of  New  France  was 
brought  to  the  brink  of  ruin.  He,  also,  was  recalled,  and 
Frontenac  again  made  Governor.  It  is  said  that  his  wife  used 
her  influence  in  having  him  appointed  the  second  time,  in 
order  to  get  him  out  of  the  country.  This  was  in  1689. 
Frontenac  entered  into  the  campaign  of  1690  with  vigor,  and 
sent  three  war  parties  of  French  and  Indians  against  the  Eng- 
lish, one  against  Albany,  which  was  diverted,  and  resulted  in 
the  massacre  of  Schenectady,  one  against  the  border  settle- 
ments of  New  Hampshire,  and  the  third  to  those  of  Maine, 
all  of  which  were  successful  in  murdering  defenceless  men, 
women,  and  children. 

In  1696  Frontenac  organized  the  famous  expedition  against 
the  Onondagas  and  Oneidas,  for  the  purpose  of  exterminating 
them,  and  thereby  conquering  the  Iroquois.  On  the  4th  of 
July  of  that  year  he  left  Montreal  at  the  head  of  about  twenty- 
two  hundred  men,  about  one-third  of  whom  were  Canadian 
Indians.  The  result  of  that  expedition  is  well  known  to  his- 
tory, and  may  be  called  a  failure  in  more  ways  than  one. 

It  is  said  that  the  destruction  of  the  Indian  villages  was 
secondary  to  the  real  object  of  this  expedition. 

It  may  be  stated  here  that  Frontenac,  when  he  arrived  at 

the  Onondaga  villages,  found  nothing  but  burned  and  deserted 

ruins  and  the  Indians*  standing  crops.     These  he  destroyed 

and  took  up  his  march  home  again.     It  is  said  that  the  Count 

was  so  infirm  that  he  was  carried  most  of  the  way  on  a  litter. 
7 


loo  The  Mohawk  Valley 

Tradition  says  that  in  one  of  the  periodical  raids  of  the 
Mohawks  on  their  foes,  the  Algonquins,  during  the  absence 
of  Frontenac  in  France,  they  secured  a  number  of  prisoners, 
among  whom  was  a  beautiful  half-breed  girl  that  Frontenac 
had  a  paternal  interest  in,  and  who  had  received  the  rudiments 
of  education  by  his  efforts. 

Every  effort  had  been  made  in  vain  during  occasional  ces- 
sations of  hostilities  between  the  French  and  the  Mohawks  to 
recover  this  child.  But  beyond  the  report  of  a  wandering 
Jesuit,  that  he  had  seen  a  Christian  captive  living  contentedly 
as  the  wife  of  a  young  Mohawk  chief,  he  had  not  been  able  to 
hear  from  his  nut-brown  daughter.  The  real  object  of  the 
expedition  of  1696  was  to  recover  this  child,  whom  he  had 
learned  to  love. 

We  will  now  trace  this  child  from  her  home  in  Canada  to 
her  new  home  on  the  banks  of  the  Mohawk  River. 

The  usual  route  of  war  parties  between  Canada  and  the 
Mohawk  and  Hudson  valleys  was  by  the  way  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain  as  far  as  Ballston,  where  the  trail  divided,  one  striking 
the  Mohawk  at  Schenectady,  another  through  Glenville  to 
Lewis  Creek  at  Adriuche,  and  another  through  Galway  and 
down  the  Juchtanunda  Creek. 

It  is  probable  that  the  latter  route  was  taken  by  the  party 
of  Mohawks  with  the  half-breed  daughter  of  Count  Frontenac, 
as  one  of  the  captives.  At  that  time  she  was  about  sixteen 
years  old,  of  medium  height,  well  developed,  and  just  budding 
into  womanhood  ;  her  black  hair  and  eyes,  her  erect  form  and  firm 
step,  while  on  the  march,  were  indicative  of  her  Huron  mother 
and  forest  training,  while  the  clear  complexion,  with  its  dusky 
hue,  and  the  large,  half-closed  eyes  and  dignity  of  carriage, 
proclaimed  the  sin  of  her  father.  While  encamped  near  the 
division  of  the  trail  at  Ballston  the  warriors  were  joined  by  an 
Indian  hunting  party  well  laden  with  the  spoils  of  the  chase. 


FALLS    ON    THE    SOUTH    CHUCTANUNDA 


Count  Frontenac  and  the  Mohawk  Valley    103 

The  leader  of  the  hunting  party,  Achawi,  a  young  Indian 
already  noted  in  his  tribe  for  his  courage  and  skill  in  battle 
and  his  wisdom  in  council,  was  a  model  of  savage  beauty.  His 
tall,  well-proportioned  form  and  well-poised  head,  his  long 
black  hair  flowing  from  under  a  band  of  eagle  feathers,  his 
piercing  black  eyes  and  noble  features  unadorned  with  the  war 
paint  that  marred  the  faces  of  his  companions,  were  enhanced 
by  the  picturesque  costume  he  wore.  Over  the  short  leggings 
which  left  his  shapely  limbs  bare  half-way  above  the  knee, 
hung  a  heavy  beaded  skirt  of  buckskin,  while  depending  from 
the  left  shoulder,  and  passing  under  the  right  arm,  leaving  the 
upper  part  of  the  breast  bare,  was  a  short  robe  of  otter.  Out- 
side the  robe  on  his  right  side  hung  a  highly  ornamented  bow 
and  quiver  of  arrows,  and  his  feet  were  covered  with  beaded 
moccasins.  His  name,  Achawi  (settler  of  disputes),  would 
indicate  that  he  was  a  man  of  more  than  ordinary  ability  in 
the  councils  of  his  tribe  at  Tiononderoga  (Fort  Hunter). 

As  soon  as  the  identity  of  the  newcomers  was  established, 
the  party  assumed  the  usual  stoical  indifference  of  Indians,  al- 
though their  advent,  well  ladened  with  fresh  venison,  was  wel- 
come to  the  weary  and  hungry  warriors  and  their  captives. 

Oneta  and  her  female  companions  were  seated  near  the 
fire,  their  forms  well  covered  with  blankets,  and  did  not  at- 
tract the  attention  of  Achawi,  but  out  from  the  folds  that 
covered  her  head,  Oneta  gazed  with  increasing  interest  on  the 
form  of  this  young  warrior,  who,  compared  with  her  war- 
stained  and  painted  captors,  with  their  belts  decorated  with 
the  scalps  of  her  slain  friends,  seemed  like  a  creature  from 
another  world.  On  the  following  morning  the  young  maiden 
was  early  awake,  and  hastened  to  the  stieam  to  wash  away  tiie 
stains  of  travel  and  pay  additional  care  to  the  details  of  her 
simple  toilet.  Returning  slowly  through  the  forest,  her  eyes 
radiant  and  her  cheeks  glowing  from  her  ablution,  she  became 


I04  The  Mohawk  Valley 

aware  of  the  approach  of  the  young  warrior.  No  wonder  this 
untutored  son  of  the  forest  gazed  entranced  at  the  vision  that 
so  unexpectedly  appeared  before  him.  Her  beautiful  form, 
but  scantily  covered  by  the  simple  robe  worn  by  the  denizens 
of  the  forest,  was  revealed  in  all  its  beauty  of  outline;  her 
long  black  hair,  bound  with  a  band  of  silver  across  her  forehead, 
and  the  tresses  brought  forward,  half  concealed  yet  half  re- 
vealed the  beauty  of  her  naked  arm  and  shoulder.  Hastily 
drawing  her  blanket  around  her  she  returned  his  gaze  of  ad- 
miration with  a  smile  that  disclosed  her  pearly  teeth  and  her 
delight  at  the  accidental  meeting.  It  was  a  case  of  love  at 
first  sight  and  after  a  few  words  in  the  Huron  language  they 
returned  together  to  the  camp,  and  found  preparation  being 
made  for  immediate  departure  for  the  Mohawk  River,  where 
they  arrived  in  a  drizzling  rain  at  nightfall  and  at  once  found 
shelter  along  the  shore  "  under  the  hanging  rocks  of  the 
Juchtanunda.  Some  of  the  party,  however,  were  soon  sent 
forward  to  procure  boats  to  convey  the  captive  women  to 
Tiononderoga. 

In  the  morning,  the  canoes  having  arrived,  Achawi  was 
placed  in  charge  of  one  of  the  canoes  containing  the  women, 
one  of  whom  was  Oneta,  and  improved  his  opportunity  by 
making  love  to  the  stranger.  Arriving  at  Tiononderoga  it  was 
decided  that  the  canoe  of  Achawi  should  continue  to  Kan- 
yeageh  and  that  Oneta  should  be  placed  in  the  family  of  the 
aunt  of  Kateri  Tekakwitha,  who  was  formerly  a  Huron 
captive. 

Although  Oneta  pined  for  her  home  on  the  St.  Lawrence, 
the  presence  of  the  Jesuit  Father  De  Lamberville  and  the 
frequent  visits  of  Achawi  made  her  life  on  the  Mohawk  more 
bearable  than  if  she  had  been  left  entirely  to  the  mercy  of  the 
fretful  aunt  of  Tekakwitha. 

Although  Indian  maids  had  occupied  Achawi's  lodge  for  a 


Count  Frontenac  and  the  Mohawk  Valley    107 

limited  period  in  experimental  marriages,  which  was  made  law- 
ful by  custom,  he  had  never  met  a  maiden  before  that  he  was 
willing  to  take  as  his  wife.  It  was  not  long  therefore  before  he 
gained  the  consent  of  Oneta  and,  with  the  blessing  of  Father 
De  Lamberville,  and  according  to  the  simple  rites  of  his  tribe, 
he  took  her  to  his  lodge  at  Tiononderoga. 

The  repeated  attempts  made  by  the  Count  to  regain  his 
daughter  kept  them  in  constant  fear  that  he  would  at  last  suc- 
ceed, and  it  was  on  this  account  that  Achawi  removed  his  lodge 
to  a  secluded  glen  near  the  Juchtanunda,  within  the  limits  of 
the  present  city  of  Amsterdam.  This  precaution  was  well 
taken,  for  in  1693  Count  Frontenac  sent  an  expedition  against 
the  Mohawks,  destroyed  their  three  castles  or  villages,  and 
three  hundred  men,  women,  and  children  were  taken  pris- 
oners, hoping  that  among  them  he  might  find  his  lost  daugh- 
ter. This  expedition  was  pursued  by  General  Schuyler  and  a 
party  of  Mohawks,  and  narrowly  escaped  destruction.  The 
fleeing  Frenchmen  reached  the  Hudson,  where,  to  their  dis- 
may, they  found  the  ice  breaking  up  and  drifting  down  the 
stream.  Happily  for  them  a  large  sheet  of  it  became  wedged 
at  a  turn  of  the  river  forming  a  temporary  bridge,  over  which 
they  crossed  in  safety. 

Among  the  border  scouts  and  traders  that  were  scattered 
along  the  valley  of  the  Mohawk  was  a  renegade  Fleming  by 
the  name  of  Hanyost.  In  early  youth  he  had  deserted  from 
the  French  ranks  in  Flanders,  came  to  New  France,  after- 
ward made  his  way  down  to  the  Dutch  settlements  on  the 
Hudson,  and  later  became  domiciled  among  the  Mohawks, 
and  adopted  the  life  of  a  hunter.  Up  to  this  time  he  had  been 
faithful  to  the  interests  of  the  Dutch  settlers  and  the  Mo- 
hawks, and  was  aware  of  the  presence  in  the  valley  of  Count 
Frontenac's  half-caste  daughter,  and  of  the  efforts  of  the  count 
to  recover  her. 


io8  The  Mohawk  Valley 

Previous  to  the  expedition  of  the  French  against  the  Onon- 
dagas,  Hanyost  had  a  difficulty  with  an  Indian  trapper  which 
had  been  referred  for  arbitration  to  the  young  Mohawk  chief, 
Achawi  (settler  of  disputes)  and  had  felt  aggrieved  at  the 
award  that  had  been  given  against  him.  The  scorn  with  which 
the  young  chief  met  his  charge  of  unfairness  stung  him  to  the 
soul,  but  fearing  the  strong  arm  of  the  young  savage  he  had 
nursed  his  revenge  in  secret. 

Hearing  of  the  presence  of  Frontenac  on  the  shores  of  Lake 
Ontario  he  deserted  his  friends  and  offered  his  services  to  the 
count  as  guide,  at  the  same  time  informing  him  of  the  where- 
abouts of  his  daughter  and  her  husband. 

Achawi,  ignorant  of  the  hostile  force  that  had  entered  his 
country,  was  off  with  his  party  at  a  summer  camp  near  Kon- 
nediega,  or  Trenton  Falls.  Hanyost  having  informed  the  com- 
mander of  the  French  forces  that  by  surprising  this  party  he 
would  be  able  to  recover  his  long-lost  daughter,  Frontenac  at 
once  detached  a  small  but  efficient  force  from  the  main  body 
of  the  army  to  strike  the  blow.  It  is  said  that  a  dozen  mus- 
keteers, with  twenty-five  pikemen  led  by  Baron  de  Baken- 
court  and  Chevalier  de  Grais,  the  former  having  the  chief 
command,  were  sent  upon  this  duty,  with  Hanyost  to  guide 
them  to  the  village  of  Achawi. 

Just  before  dawn  of  the  second  day,  the  party  found 
themselves  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Indian  village,  and  at 
once  made  preparations  for  an  attack  while  yet  the  savages 
were  wrapped  in  repose. 

The  baron,  after  carefully  examining  the  hilly  passes,  de- 
termined to  head  the  attack,  while  Chevalier  de  Grais,  with 
Hanyost  to  mark  out  his  prey,  should  pounce  upon  the  chief- 
tain's wife.  The  followers  were  warned  not  to  injure  the 
female  captives,  but  to  give  no  quarter  to  their  defenders. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  fated  village,  secure  in  their  isolated 


Count  Frontenac  and  the  Mohawk  Valley    109 

situation,  had  neglected  all  precautions  against  surprise,  and 
were  aroused  from  slumber  with  the  whizzing  of  hand  gre- 
nades, which  set  fire  to  the  main  row  of  frail  wigwams  which 
formed  the  little  street,  and  kindled  the  dry  mats  stretched 
over  them  into  instant  flames.  And  then,  as  the  startled 
warriors  leaped,  all  naked  and  unarmed  from  the  blazing  lodges, 
they  found  themselves  surrounded  by  the  French  pikemen. 
Waiting  only  for  a  volley  from  the  musketeers,  the  soldiers 
rushed  upon  the  wretched  savages,  slaughtering  them.  Many 
there  were,  however,  who,  with  Achawi  at  their  head,  acquit- 
ted themselves  like  warriors.  Snatching  their  weapons  from 
the  flames,  they  sprang  upon  the  pikemen  vv^th  irresistible 
fury.  Their  heavy  war-clubs  beat  down  and  splintered  the 
fragile  spears  of  the  Frenchmen,  while  their  corselets  rang  with 
the  blows  of  tomahawk  and  knife. 

De  Grais,  in  the  meantime,  watched  the  shrieking  forms  of 
the  females,  expecting  each  moment  to  see  the  pale  features 
of  the  Christian  captive.  The  Mohawks  began  now  to  wage  a 
more  successful  resistance,  and  just  when  the  fight  was  raging 
hottest  he  saw  a  tall  warrior  disengage  himself  from  the 
melee  and  dash  upon  and  brain,  with  his  tomahawk,  a  French- 
man who  had  also  separated  himself  from  his  party.  The 
quick  eye  of  De  Grais  caught  a  glimpse  of  a  lithe  female  form, 
with  an  infant  in  her  arms,  in  pursuit  of  whom  the  luckless 
Frenchman  met  his  death  by  the  strong  arm  of  Achawi.  It 
was  the  wife  of  Achawi  fleeing  to  the  hills  for  safety.  De 
Grais  raised  his  pistol  to  fire  at  the  chieftain,  when  the  track 
of  the  flying  girl  brought  her  directly  in  his  line  of  sight,  and 
he  held  his  fire. 

Achawi,  in  the  meantime,  had  been  cut  off  from  his  people 
by  the  soldiers,  who  closed  in  upon  the  space  which  his  terri- 
ble arm  had  a  moment  before  kept  open.  Seeing  the  hopeless- 
ness of    his  position,   he    made  a  dash  at    his  foes    with    his 


no  The  Mohawk  Valley 

war-club,  fairly  cleaving  a  path  to  his  fleeing  wife,  and  with 
arms  outstretched  to  protect  her  from  the  dropping  shots  of  the 
enemy,  he  bounded  after  her,  and  before  De  Grais  and  Han- 
yost,  with  seven  others  fairly  got  in  pursuit,  Achawi,  who  still 
kept  behind  his  wife,  was  far  in  advance  of  the  pursuing  party. 
Her  forest  training  had  made  Oneta  fleet  of  foot,  and  hearing 
the  cheering  voice  of  her  loved  warrior  behind  her,  she  urged 
her  flight  over  crag  and  fell,  and  soon  reached  the  head  of  a 
rocky  pass  which  it  would  take  some  moments  for  any  but  an 
American  forester  to  climb.  Lifting  his  wife  to  the  ledge 
above,  he  placed  her  infant  in  her  arms,  and  bade  her  speed 
her  way  to  the  cavern  among  the  hills.  Achawi  looked  a  mo- 
ment after  her  retreating  form,  and  then  coolly  swung  himself 
to  the  ledge  which  commanded  the  pass.  His  tomahawk  and 
war-club  had  been  lost  in  the  strife,  but  he  still  carried  at  his 
back  his  bow  and  quiver.  There  were  but  three  arrows  in  the 
quiver,  and  the  Mohawk  was  determined  to  have  the  life  of  an 
enemy  in  exchange  for  each  of  them. 

Placing  himself  behind  a  rock  that  partly  concealed  his 
form,  he  strung  his  bow,  and  fitting  an  arrow  to  the  string,  he 
aimed  at  the  foremost  soldier  that  was  climbing  the  crags  be- 
low. With  the  swiftness  of  a  bullet  the  arrow  took  its  flight 
and  buried  itself  in  the  throat  of  its  victim,  who  fell,  dislodg- 
ing two  of  his  comrades  in  his  fall,  and  temporarily  checking 
pursuit.  Achawi,  waiting  until  the  soldiers  were  again  ad- 
vancing, sent  another  arrow  in  their  midst,  with  almost  the 
same  result.  Fitting  his  last  arrow  to  the  string,  he  raised  his 
bow,  but  before  he  could  fire,  a  shot  from  the  gun  of  Hanyost 
struck  his  thumb,  disablinj?  it.  Again  fleeing,  he  took  a 
different  direction  from  that  taken  by  his  wife,  hoping  to  draw 
the  soldiers  in  pursuit  of  himself  until  she  should  reach  a  place 
of  safety.  After  a  while  he  observed  that  three  of  the  soldiers 
were  following  him,  while  De  Grais,  Hanyost,  and  one  of  the 


Count  Frontenac  and  the  Mohawk  Valley    1 1 1 

pikemen  were  taking  a  direct  route  to  the  cavern,  with  Han- 
yost  in  the  lead,  who  was  undoubtedly  aware  of  the  situation 
of  this  hidden  rendezvous,  and  rightly  guessed  the  ruse  of 
Achawi. 

The  young  Mohawk  at  once  saw  the  object  of  Hanyost, 
and  quick  as  thought  took  a  few  steps  within  the  thicket  to 
still  mislead  his  pursuers,  bounded  across  a  mountain  torrent, 
leaving  his  footmarks  in  its  banks,  and  then  turned  shortly  on 
a  rock  beyond,  re-crossed  the  stream,  and  concealed  himself 
behind  a  fallen  tree,  until  his  pursurers  had  passed  by  on  the 
false  trail.  A  rocky  hillock  now  only  divided  him  from  the 
point  to  which  he  had  directed  his  wife  by  another  route,  and 
to  which  Hanyost  and  his  party  were  urging  their  way. 
Springing  from  crag  to  crag,  the  hunted  warrior  at  last  planted 
his  foot  on  the  roots  of  a  blasted  oak,  that  shot  its  limbs  above 
the  cavern,  just  as  his  wife,  with  her  babe  clasped  to  her 
bosom,  sank  exhausted  within  the  shadows  of  the  cavern. 
Looking  down,  he  saw  De  Grais  and  his  followers  making  a 
laborious  ascent  of  the  crags  below,  with  Hanyost  in  advance, 
and  De  Grais  and  the  mustketeer  close  behind.  The  scout, 
who  had  evidently  caught  sight  of  the  exhausted  female  at 
the  mouth  of  the  cavern,  gave  an  exultant  cry. 

God  help  thee,  bold  archer!  the  game  of  life  is  nearly  up; 
thy  quiver  is  empty.  In  his  agony  at  the  thought  of  his  wife, 
he  raised  his  bow  and  became  aware  that  the  forgotten  arrow 
was  clasped  in  his  bleeding  fingers.  Although  his  stiffened 
thumb  forbade  its  use,  Achawi  fitted  the  remaining  arrow  to 
the  string,  prepared  to  take  the  life  of  one  more  of  his  enemies 
if  possible.  Bracing  his  knee  upon  the  flinty  rock,  while  the 
muscles  of  his  body  swelled  as  if  all  of  its  energies  were  em- 
bodied  in  this  supreme  effort,  he  drew  the  arrow  back  with  his 
two  fingers,  without  the  use  of  his  bleeding  thumb,  and  aimed 
at  the  treacherous  scout.     The  twanging  bowstring  dismissed 


112  The  Mohawk  Valley 

his  last  arrow  straight  to  the  heart  of  Han3'ost.  The  dying 
wretch  clutched  the  sword  chain  of  De  Grais,  and  the  two 
went  rolling  down  the  glen  together;  and  De  Grais  was  not 
unwilling  to  abandon  the  pursuit  when  the  musketeer,  hasten- 
ing to  his  assistance,  had  disengaged  him,  bruised  and 
bloody,  from  the  rigid  embrace  of  the  corpse. 

Achawi,  descending  from  his  cavern,  collected  the  rem- 
nants of  his  band  and  wreaked  terrible  vengeance  upon  the 
murderers,  most  of  whom  they  cut  off  before  they  could  join 
the  main  body  of  the  French  army. 

Count  Frontenac  returned  to  Canada  and  died  in  1698,  and 
the  existence  of  his  half-caste  daughter  was  soon  forgotten. 


Chapter  VIII 

Sir  William  Johnson 

IN  examining  the  early  records  of  history,  particularly  the 
colonial  and  documentary  history  of  New  York,  I  was 
impressed  with  the  fact  that  Sir  William  Johnson  filled 
a  very  large  place  in  the  history  of  the  colony  between 
1740  and  the  time  of  his  death  in  1774. 

We  are  apt  to  connect  Sir  William's  life  with  Johnstown, 
N,  Y.,  and  forget  that  although  he  founded  and  practically 
created  the  village  that  was  named  for  him,  he  lived  there 
only  eleven  years,  during  which  time  he  was  occupied  in 
building  up  the  village,  erecting  churches,  court-house,  jail, 
and  his  own  spacious  mansion. 

But  in  fact  twenty-four  years  of  his  manhood  were  passed 
in  this  valley,  and  for  twenty  of  those  years  he  lived  in  the  old 
stone  mansion  sometimes  called  Mount  Johnson,  and  now 
called  Fort  Johnson,  within  a  mile  of  the  city  of  Amsterdam. 

It  was  probably  here  that  his  wife,  Catherine  Weisenberg, 
died,  but  the  date  is  not  known.  It  was  from  a  Mr.  Phillips 
who  lived  opposite  Cranesville,  that  he  purchased  the  Ger- 
man girl  who  afterward  became  his  wife  and  the  mother  of  his 
legitimate  children.  Sir  William  came  to  the  valley  in  1738, 
and  soon  after  purchased  the  German  girl  Catherine  for  a 
housekeeper.  They  were  probably  married  by  the  Rev.  Dr. 
Henry  Barclay,  then  the  rector  in  charge  of  Queen  Anne's 
Chapel  at  Fort  Hunter.  In  1742  his  son,  John  Johnson,  was 
born,  probably  in  Warrensbush,  as  Sir  Peter  Warren's  estate 

113 


114  The  Mohawk  Valley 

of  fourteen  thousand  acres  in  the  present  town  of  Florida  was 
then  called. 

It  was  in  Fort  Johnson,  built  in  1743,  that  Molly  Brant 
presided  as  mistress  and  it  was  here  that  most  of  the  confer- 
ences with  the  Iroquois  were  held  and  here  Sir  William 
gained  influence  over  them  on  account  of  his  kind  and  strictly 
honorable  treatment  of  those  warlike  tribes.  It  was  here  that 
he  was  made  superintendent  of  the  Indians  and,  in  1746,  in- 
vested by  the  Mohawks  with  the  rank  of  a  chief  of  that  nation. 
In  Indian  costume  he  shortly  after  led  the  tribe  to  a  council 
at  Albany. 

It  was  at  this  house  in  1755  that  he  held  a  council  with  the 
Iroquois  which  resulted  in  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  of 
their  warriors  following  him  to  victory  over  the  French  at  the 
battle  of  Lake  George. 

It  was  from  this  mansion  that  most  of  the  letters  on  col- 
onial affairs  were  written  by  Sir  William  to  His  Majesty  King 
George  II.  and  to  the  governor  of  the  colony  and  the  lords  of 
the  board  of  trade. 

Here  also  were  born  his  two  daughters,  Nancy  and  Mary. 

Whatever  may  be  said  of  Sir  William's  private  life,  no  one 
can  read  those  letters  without  being  impressed  with  the  honesty 
of  purpose  of  the  writer. 

While  frauds  were  being  practised  on  the  Indians  by  the 
land-grabbing  officials  at  Albany  and  elsewhere,  Johnson,  was 
firm  in  his  desire  that  the  Iroquois  should  not  be  cheated  but 
should  be  dealt  with  justly.  And  while  fraudulent  grants,  like 
the  seven  hundred  thousand  acres  Kayaderosseras  grant,  were 
obtained  with  ease,  he  would  not  claim  or  occupy  any  land 
that  was  not  justly  granted  to  him  by  his  friends  the  Indians. 

We  remember  Sir  William  Johnson  as  a  loyalist,  and  as  a 
friend  of  the  savages  who  a  little  later  spread  terror  through- 
out the  Mohawk  Valley.     But  we  must  not  forget  that  Sir 


SIK    WILLIAM    JOHNSON,    BAKT. ,     I715-I774 


"5 


Sir  William  Johnson  117 

William  Johnson  died  in  1774,  and  that  it  was  Sir  John  John- 
son and  Col.  Guy  Johnson  and  the  Butlers  who  were  respon- 
sible for  many  of  the  savage  acts  of  the  Indians  in  the 
Mohawk  Valley  and  vicinity,  and  that  it  was  Col.  Guy  John, 
son,  the  founder  of  Guy  Park,  who  alienated  the  Six  Nations 
from  the  colonists. 

In  reading  the  acts  of  Sir  William  and  becoming  ac- 
quainted with  his  character  as  it  shows  forth  in  his  letters,  I 
do  not  hesitate  to  say  that  if  he  had  lived  and  sided  with  the 
colonists,  his  name  would  have  been  written  on  the  pages  of 
history  side  by  side  with  that  of  George  Washington  and  other 
heroes  of  the  Revolution. 

In  Frothingham's  history  of  Montgomery  County  is  found 
the  following  paragraph : 

Had  Sir  William  lived  it  is  confidently  believed  he  would  have 
espoused  the  cause  of  the  colonies  against  the  mother  country,  in 
which  event  one  of  the  most  magnificent  estates  in  the  country 
would  have  been  confirmed  to  him,  but  his  successors,  and  particu- 
larly his  son  John,  allied  themselves  to  the  British,  and  as  a  result 
the  estate  was  confiscated  and  sold  for  the  public  benefit. 

Sir  John  Johnson,  who  occupied  Fort  Johnson  after  Sir 
William  moved  to  Johnson  Hall,  Johnstown,  in  1763,  was  a 
man  of  different  character  from  his  father.  He  and  his 
brothers-in-law,  Guy  Johnson  and  Daniel  Claus,  were  crea- 
tures of  the  King,  having  no  sentiment  in  cominon  with  the 
people.  "  He  was  a  bloodthirsty  and  relentless  enemy,  com- 
bining the  worst  elements  of  toryism  with  the  inhuman  meth- 
ods of  war  only  resorted  to  by  savages." 

Simms  says:  "  He  was  not  the  amiable-tempered,  social, 
and  companionable  man  his  father  was  and  hence  was  not  the 
welcome  guest  in  all  society  that  his  father  had  been." 

In  early  life,  while  living  at  Fort  Johnson,  he  wooed,  won, 
but  did  not  wed  Miss  Clara  Putnam,  a  very  pretty  girl  of  good 


ii8  The  Mohawk  Valley 

family  at  Tribes  Hill,  by  whom  he  had  two  children,  a  son 
and  a  daughter.  Miss  Putnam  was  keeping  house  for  him  at 
the  old  Fort  Johnson  mansion  when  he  married  Miss  Mary 
Watts,  of  New  York  City,  on  June  29,  1773,  but  before  his  re- 
turn from  New  York  Miss  Putnam  and  her  children  were  sent 
into  the  town  of  Florida.  The  son,  when  he  grew  up,  was 
nicely  established  by  his  father  in  some  kind  of  business  in 
Canada,  and  the  daughter,  who  was  said  to  have  been  a  tall, 
beautiful  girl,  and  at  one  time  quite  a  belle  in  the  valley,  mar- 
ried a  James  Van  Home,  by  whom  she  had  one  or  more  chil- 
dren. She  had  dark  hair  and  dark  eyes,  was  brunette  in 
complexion,  and  was  graceful  in  her  carriage.  Only  a  few 
years  after  her  marriage,  while  visiting  friends  at  Tribes  Hill, 
she  ate  too  freely  of  fruit,  became  sick,  and  died  suddenly, 
universally  lamented. 

Late  in  life  Sir  John  Johnson  (he  was  sixty-seven  years 
old)  sent  word  to  Miss  Clara  Putnam  to  come  to  Canada  at  a 
certain  time  (which  was  chosen  in  the  absence  of  his  wife),  and 
he  would  give  her  some  property.  She  went  in  the  summer 
of  1809.  He  at  that  time  gave  her  $1200  in  money  and  pur- 
chased a  house  and  lot  for  her  in  Schenectady.  She  died  about 
the  year  1840. 

In  Griffis's  Life  of  Sir  William  yohnson  we  find  the  follow- 
ing account  of  "  the  brown  Lady  Johnson." 

After  the  death  of  his  wife,  Catherine,  Sir  William  lived 
with  various  mistresses,  as  tradition  avers,  but  after  a  year  or 
two  of  such  life,  dismissed  them  for  a  permanent  housekeeper — 
Molly  Brant,  the  sister  of  Joseph  Brant,  the  noted  Indian  chief. 

According  to  the  local  traditions  of  the  valley,  Johnson 
first  met  the  pretty  squaw  when  about  sixteen  years  old  at  a 
militia  muster  at  or  near  Fort  Johnson.  In  jest,  she  asked  an 
officer  to  let  her  ride  behind  him.  He  assented,  returning 
fun  for  fun.      To  his  surprise  she  leaped  like  a  wild  cat  upon 


A    WINDOW    IN    THE    OLD    CHURCH    AT    GKRMAN    KLATTS 


119 


Sir  William  Johnson  121 

the  space  behind  the  saddle,  holding  on  tightly,  with  hair  fly- 
ing and  garments  flapping,  while  the  excited  horse  dashed 
over  the  parade  ground.  The  crowd  enjoyed  the  sight,  but 
the  most  interested  spectator  was  Sir  William,  who,  admiring 
her  spirit,  resolved  to  make  her  his  paramour. 

From  this  time  Molly  Brant,  the  handsome  squaw,  was 
Johnson's  companion.  Molly  Brant  was  undoubtedly  a 
woman  of  ability,  and  with  her  Johnson  lived  happily.  She 
presided  over  Fort  Johnson  and  later  Johnson  Hall  at  Johns- 
town, and  became  the  mother  of  a  large  brood  of  his  natural 
children,  and  as  "  the  brown  Lady  Johnson  "  she  was  always 
treated  with  respect  by  the  white  guests  and  visitors. 

While  Molly  Brant  presided  over  the  mansion,  and  her 
dusky  children  attended  the  manor  school,  the  daughters  of 
Johnson  and  Catherine  Weisenberg,  Nancy  and  Mary,  were 
trained  under  the  care  of  a  governess,  who  made  them  ac- 
quainted with  the  social  graces  of  London  and  the  standard 
literature  of  England.' 

Nancy,  his  first  daughter,  married  a  son  of  a  German  Pala- 
tine and  a  noted  Indian  fighter  named  Daniel  Claus,  in  July, 
1762.  Mary  married  her  cousin,  Guy,  a  nephew  of  Sir  Wil- 
liam, and  later  Colonel  Guy  Johnson,  in  1763. 

The  mansion  now  known  as  Guy  Park  in  the  western  part 
of  the  city  of  Amsterdam  was  built  for  Colonel  Guy  and  his 
wife  by  Sir  William  in  1766,  and  was  occupied  by  them  until 
their  removal  to  Canada  during  the  Revolution. 

'  These  two  daughters,  who  were  left  by  their  dying  mother  to  the  care  of  a 
friend,  were  educated  almost  in  solitude.  They  were  carefully  instructed  in 
religious  duties,  and  in  various  kinds  of  needlework,  but  were  themselves  kept 
entirely  from  society.  At  the  age  of  sixteen  they  had  never  seen  a  lady,  except 
their  mother  and  her  friend  (who  was  the  widow  of  an  English  officer),  or  a  gen- 
tleman except  Sir  William,  who  visited  their  room  daily.  Their  dress  was  not 
conformed  to  the  fashions,  but  always  consisted  of  wrappers  of  finest  chintz  over 
green  silk  petticoats.  Their  hair,  which  was  long  and  beautiful,  was  tied  with  a 
simple  band  of  ribbon.  After  their  marriage  they  soon  acquired  the  habits  of 
society,  and  made  excellent  wives. — Lossi.ng. 


122  The  Mohawk  Valley 

A  mansion  not  quite  as  pretentious  was  built  for  Colonel 
Claus  and  wife  about  a  mile  east  of  Fort  Johnson.  It  was 
located  opposite  the  present  Boulevard  Hotel.  The  house 
was  burned  down  subsequently,  but  the  ruins  of  the  founda- 
tion and  the  old  brick  oven  were  to  be  seen  up  to  within  a  few 
years.  Subsequently  a  tavern  was  erected  on  the  same  lot  and 
on  part  of  the  old  foundation,  and  was  known  as  the  Charley 
Chase  Hotel.  All  trace  of  this  old  building  is  entirely 
obliterated. 

Since  writing  the  above,  accident  has  thrown  in  my  way 
some  new  material  in  reference  to  the  family  of  Sir  William 
Johnson.  The  facts  were  transmitted  to  me  by  one  of  the 
descendants,  a  man  of  undoubted  ability  and  probity  of  char- 
acter, and  they  furnish  a  missing  link  between  Catherine  Weis- 
enberg  and  Molly  Brant.  It  seems  that  Molly  Brant  had  a 
predecessor  in  the  affections  of  Sir  William,  in  the  grand- 
daughter or  grand-niece  of  King  Hendrick.  She  bore  to  Sir 
William  two  daughters,  and  died  in  childbirth  with  a  third,  in 
1753.  This  woman  took  the  English  name  of  Caroline,  and 
her  daughters  were  named  Charlotte  and  Caroline.  Charlotte 
Johnson  married  Henry  Randall,  a  subaltern  in  the  King's 
Royal  Provincial  Regiment,  about  two  years  before  the  war  of 
the  Revolution.  When  the  war  came  on  he  resigned  from 
the  King's  service  and  entered  Schuyler's  Regiment  of  Militia, 
He  afterwards  joined  Clinton's  Regiment  of  Continentals,  and 
was  killed  at  Monmouth  Court  House.  Charlotte  accom- 
panied her  husband  to  Albany,  turning  her  back  forever  on 
her  kith  and  kin.  She  had  two  children,  one  named  Charlotte 
Randal],  who  married  George  King.  They  had  a  daughter, 
Charlotte  King,  who  was  the  grandmother  of  my  informant. 
The  other  daughter  of  Sir  William  Johnson  by  Molly  Brant's 
predecessor,  named  CaroHne,  is  said  to  have  married  Walter  N. 
Butler,  who  was  killed  at  West  Canada  Creek  in  1781. 


Chapter  IX 
Guy  Park  and  Fort  Johnson 

SIR  WILLIAM  JOHNSON,  when  he  built  Guy  Park 
mansion  for  his  nephew,  Guy  Johnson,  and  his  wife, 
Mary,  the  second  daughter  of  Sir  WiUiam,  set  apart 
a  mile  square  of  his  large  tract  of  land  to  be  connected 
therewith.  The  easterly  line  of  this  farm  formerly  extended 
to  the  sand  hole  on  West  Main  Street  and  the  westerly  line 
to  the  creek  that  runs  into  the  river  near  Steadwell  Avenue 
in  the  cit)^  of  Amsterdam.  He  also  gave  to  his  daughter 
Nancy,  the  wife  of  Colonel  Daniel  Glaus,  a  similar  tract  of 
land,  extending  from  said  creek  west,  until  it  met  the  mile 
square  of  the  Fort  Johnson  farm  at  Dove  Creek,  which  runs 
from  a  ravine  through  Jacob  Lepper's  farm,  near  the  brick 
schoolhouse  on  the  turnpike  at  Fort  Johnson. 

It  is  of  this  ravine  that  I  wish  to  speak  at  this  time.  The 
mouth  of  this  gorge  has,  in  the  course  of  many  years,  been 
widened  by  the  stream  spoken  of  (which  at  times  becomes  a 
furious  torrent),  leaving  a  fertile  flat  of  a  number  of  acres,  pro- 
tected from  the  storms  and  cold  winds  by  the  hills  and  forests 
which  almost  surround  it ;  but  being  open  to  the  south,  it  re- 
ceives the  benefit  of  the  light  and  heat  of  the  sun,  tempered 
somewhat  by  cool  breezes  which  blow  from  the  upper  ravine 
in  the  rear.  The  hills  on  the  west  are  at  an  elevation  of  about 
two  hundred  feet  above  the  Mohawk  River,  being  on  the  five- 
hundred-feet  level.  North  of  the  flat  the  creek  winds  through 
these  wooded  hills  with  many  an  abrupt  turn. 

123 


124  The  Mohawk  Valley 

Crossing  the  creek  to  the  western  bank,  in  a  recent  visit  to 
this  place,  we  ascended  to  the  highest  point  of  the  hills  on  the 
west,  with  "  painful  steps  and  slow,"  and  were  well  repaid 
for  our  labor.  We  found  ourselves  on  a  comparatively  level 
plateau,  except  that  at  the  outer  edge  of  one  side  is  a  higher 
ridge  extending  north  and  south,  while  from  the  outer  edge  of 
this  ridge  is  a  very  steep  declivity  to  the  creek  far  down  below. 
This  ridge  has  long  been  known  as  an  Indian  burying-ground, 
on  account  of  the  mounds  that  were  scattered  over  its  surface. 

But  instead  of  mounds  we  found  excavations,  and  from  the 
nature  of  the  holes  we  were  somewhat  in  doubt  whether  to 
call  them  graves  or  cornpits.  By  cutting  into  the  side  of  one 
of  the  excavations  (which  was  about  three  feet  deep  and 
straight  down)  we  laid  bare  a  strata  of  discolored  earth,  mixed 
with  bits  of  charcoal.  The  plateau  is  surrounded  by  steep  de- 
clivities except  at  one  point,  where  it  connects  with  the 
cleared  farm  land  to  the  west.  From  the  ridge  spoken  of, 
there  are  three  separate  "  hogsbacks  "  lunning  to  the  west, 
north,  and  northeast,  and  extending  to  the  creek,  which 
makes  a  sharp  turn  to  the  west  at  this  point.  Although  these 
ridges  are  found  on  nearly  every  ancient  Indian  site,  with  a 
trail  leading  from  the  top  of  a  hill  to  a  ravine  below,  it  is  hard 
to  believe  that  the  acclivity  of  their  trails  could  be  more  inac- 
cessible than  those  spoken  of  above.  The  ridges  are  from  ten 
to  twenty  feet  high,  and  about  two  feet  broad  on  top,  but  are  so 
steep  that  great  danger  would  attend  any  attempt  to  descend 
from  above  without  flexible  shoes  or  bare  feet  and  a  very 
steady  head. 

Our  guide,  Mr.  Jacob  Lepper,  informed  us  that  he  had 
been  familiar  with  this  spot  from  boyhood,  and  that  the 
mounds  were  plainly  discernible  the  last  time  he  visited  this 
spot,  about  six  years  ago.  The  numerous  excavations  that  we 
found  would  seem  to  indicate  that  an  extended  examination 


ATTIC    COKNKR,    GLKN-SANUEKS    HOUSE,    SCHENECTADY 


125 


Guy  Park  and  Fort  Johnson  127 

had  been  made,  but  by  whom,  or  with  what  results,  I  have 
been  unable  to  ascertain.  The  cultivated  plateau  to  the  west 
comprises  the  farms  of  John  and  Spencer  Sweet.  Many  relics 
have  been  found  on  these  farms,  particularly  in  a  field  north 
of  the  farm  buildings. 

Mr.  John  Sweet  exhibited  to  me  quite  a  number  of  pre- 
historic relics  which  were  the  remnants  of  an  extensive  collec- 
tion gathered  by  his  father  in  the  early  years  of  his  life,  one 
of  which  was  a  half  of  a  gorget,  or  banner  stone,  as  the  cere- 
monial stones  are  called.  The  fragment  was  about  four  inches 
long  and  two  inches  wide,  of  highly  polished  variegated  stone, 
and  when  whole  must  have  resembled  a  butterfly  with  its  wings 
spread,  a  hole  one-half  inch  in  diameter  extending  lengthwise 
through  that  part  which  would  represent  the  body  of  the 
insect.  Numerous  arrow-points,  drills,  and  spears  of  flint 
were  also  in  the  collection. 

Returning  through  the  wood  from  the  ridge,  we  passed  to 
a  lower  level,  which  has  the  appearance  of  having  been  partly 
cleared,  and  were  shown  a  partially  walled-up  excavation 
about  fifteen  feet  square,  evidently  the  cellar  of  a  primitive 
log  cabin  of  some  early  hunter  or  pioneer.  Near  by,  in  a  ra- 
vine, is  an  excellent  spring,  which  probably  furnished  water  to 
this  lone  resident  of  the  forest. 

It  is  known  that  large  numbers  of  Indians  of  the  Six  Na- 
tions frequently  visited  Sir  William  Johnson  at  Fort  Johnson, 
many  of  whom  undoubtedly  found  rude  shelter  on  the  flats 
and  in  the  woods  around  his  mansion,  but  it  must  be  remem- 
bered that  the  savage  visitors,  at  that  period,  had  been 
familiar  with  firearms  and  metal  tools  for  more  than  a  century, 
and  the  finding  of  rude  flint  implements  in  this  locality  would 
seem  to  indicate  a  previous  occupation.  The  surroundings  are 
of  the  character  usually  chosen  by  the  Mohawks  for  their  vil- 
lages and  hunting-grounds,  namely,  streams,  springs,  wooded 


128  The  Mohawk  Valley 

hills,  and  extensive  flats  for  their  rude  husbandry.  The  only 
ford  across  the  Mohawk  for  miles  east  or  west  in  close  prox- 
imity to  the  valley  of  the  Kayaderos  Creek,  together  with  the 
extensive  flat  lands  in  this  vicinity  and  fertile  islands  in  mid- 
stream, would  also  seem  to  point  to  this  locality  as  a  place  of 
probable  occupation  by  the  early  Mohawks,  although  it  may 
or  may  not  have  been  a  palisaded  castle. 

All  the  land  from  Steadwell  Avenue  for  six  miles  along  the 
Mohawk  west  and  for  a  mile  and  a  half  north  was  comprised 
in  what  was  called  the  Wilson  and  Abeel  patent.  This 
patent  was  one  of  the  earliest  transfers  of  land  in  the  town  of 
Amsterdam,  being  dated  February  22,  1706.  This  property 
came  into  the  hands  of  William  Johnson  soon  after  he  estab- 
lished "Johnson  settlement"  (afterwards  Warrensbush)  on 
the  south  bank  of  the  Mohawk,  about  one-half  mile  below  the 
river  bridge  at  Amsterdam,  in  1738. 

It  would  seem  from  a  letter  to  his  uncle  and  patron,  Sir 
Peter  Warren,  dated  May  10,  1739,  that  his  purchase  was 
made  previous  to  that  date,  and  that  it  displeased  Sir  Peter, 
who  feared  he  would  remove  there  and  neglect  the  store  at 
the  settlement. 

Johnson  wrote  to  him  that  he  had  no  design  of  removing 
to  his  new  purchase,  having  made  it,  he  said,  for  the  purpose 
of  securing  a  valuable  water-power,  on  which  he  proposed 
erecting  a  grist  mill.  In  less  than  three  years,  however, 
Johnson  erected  the  Fort  Johnson  mansion  and  removed  his 
family  to  it. 

The  first  covering  to  the  roof  of  Fort  Johnson  was  prob- 
ably of  shingles,  as  Johnson  did  not  order  the  lead  covering, 
which  was  purchased  in  London,  until  the  year  1749.  When- 
ever I  look  at  that  old  stone  building,  my  thoughts  revert  to 
the  time  when,  as  a  young  man  of  twenty-four  years,  he 
selected  this  spot  to  build  himself  a  home,  and  I  wonder,  for 


Guy  Park  and  Fort  Johnson  131 

whom  did  he  build  it  ?  Was  it  for  Catherine,  his  housekeeper, 
or  maid-of-all-work,  to  whom,  at  this  period,  he  was  not 
married,  or  was  it  for  a  home  for  the  young  girl  he  loved  in 
the  little  Irish  town  which  was  his  birthplace  ? 

In  the  early  years  of  his  manhood  he  had  fallen  in  love 
with  a  pretty  Irish  girl.  History  is  silent  about  her  name  or 
family.  We  are  merely  told  that  "  at  the  age  of  twenty-two 
he  fell  in  love  with  a  young  girl  whom  his  parents  would  not 
permit  him  to  marry."  Sir  Peter  Warren,  his  uncle,  hearing 
of  his  experience,  ofTered  him  the  position  of  agent  of  his  re- 
cently acquired  estate  on  the  Mohawk  River,  comprising  what 
is  now  known  as  the  town  of  Florida.  Perhaps  this  offer 
came  when  he  was  depressed  at  the  thought  of  never  being 
able  to  marry  the  girl  of  his  choice,  and  in  a  fit  of  despon- 
dency he  accepted  it  as  an  opportunity  to  bury  himself  in  the 
wilds  of  the  New  World,  and  perhaps  make  for  himself  a  name 
and  a  fortune.  He  is  described  as  being  a  tall,  robust  young 
man,  full  of  animal  life  and  spirits,  manly  and  commanding 
in  his  deportment.  Arriving  at  the  port  of  New  York,  in 
1738,  he  immediately  found  his  way  to  the  valley  of  the  Mo- 
hawk, and  the  same  year  erected  a  storehouse  and  dwelling  on 
his  uncle's  estate,  near  the  present  residence  of  Walter  Major, 
east  of  the  river  bridge  in  the  city  of  Amsterdam.  It  was  to 
this  dwelling  that  he  brought  Catherine  Weisenberg,  whom  he 
had  purchased  of  his  neighbor,  Lewis  Phillips,  for  sixteen 
pounds.  It  is  said  that  at  some  period  before  her  death  he 
married  her,  but  no  record  of  their  marriage  has  ever  been 
found,  although  he  speaks  of  her  in  his  will  as  my  beloved 
wife  Catherine. 

The  old  building  at  Fort  Johnson  stands  to-day,  a  monu- 
ment to  the  pluck,  energy,  and  ambition  of  young  William 
Johnson,  and  will  undoubtedly  remain  as  such  after  his 
wooden  baronial  mansion  at  Johnstown  has  crumbled  to  dust. 


132  The  Mohawk  Valley- 

Very  few  historians  have  given  any  extended  account  of  his 
early  Hfe  at  Warrensbush ;  in  fact,  very  little  is  known,  except 
what  can  be  gathered  from  a  few  letters  from  his  uncle,  Sir 
Peter  Warren.  That  he  erected  a  storehouse  at  Warrensbush 
and  engaged  in  trade  with  the  Indians  and  white  settlers,  is 
well  known,  and  that  he  also  had  charge  of  the  estate,  and  oc- 
cupied himself  in  selling  lots  or  farms,  and  in  the  arduous 
labor  of  clearing  the  land  of  the  forests,  are  matters  of  record. 
From  a  letters  dated  Boston,  November  20,  1738,  from  Sir 
Peter  to  William  Johnson,  we  learn  that  in  addition  to  form- 
ing settlements  for  his  uncle,  he  was  also  clearing  land  for 
himself.  The  letter  advises  him  that,  "  the  smaller  the  farms, 
the  more  land  that  will  be  sold,  and  the  better  the  improve- 
ment will  be.  I  hope  you  will  plant  an  orchard  in  the 
spring."  "  As  you  have  great  help  now,  you  will  girdle  many 
trees."  In  a  note  in  W.  L.  Stone's  Life  of  Sir  William  John- 
son, the  method  of  gridling  trees  is  described : 

The  operation  consists  in  making  a  deep  circular  cut  around  the 
trunk  of  large  trees,  which  draws  off  the  sap  and  causes  the  trees 
to  die  in  the  course  of  a  couple  of  years.  The  trunks  and  limbs 
becoming  dry,  are  readily  subject  to  the  action  of  fire,  and  the 
foresters  are  thereby  often  relieved  of  much  heavy  labor,  while  by 
the  absence  of  foliage,  the  earth  has  already  been  partially  warmed 
by  the  sun,  and  is  in  respect  of  decaying  roots,  rendered  much 
easier  of  cultivation. 

One  of  the  sources  of  revenue  of  the  colonist  was  potash, 
obtained  by  burning  forest  trees  that  were  cut  down  to  clear 
the  land,  and  leaching  the  wood  ashes.  An  average  of  two 
tons  to  the  acre  was  obtained.  A  market  for  the  potash  was 
found  in  Europe,  at  a  fair  price. 

Both  W.  L.  Stone  and  W.  S.  Griffis  made  statements  in 
regard  to  William  Johnson  at  this  period  of  his  life  which  are 
not  correct.     Stone  merely  quotes  from  a  statement  made  by 


Guy  Park  and  Fort  Johnson  133 

the  late  Thomas  Sammons,  but  does  not  endorse  it.  Sam- 
mons's  statement,  which  Griffis  repeats,  was  that  "  young 
Johnson  was  wont  to  ride  to  mill  on  horseback  to  Caughna- 
waga,  distant  from  Warrensbush  fifteen  miles."  Griffis 
writes  of  this  period:  "  That  his  [Johnson's]  eye  was  keenly 
open  to  every  new  advantage  or  possibility  of  progress  was 
seen  in  his  buying,  as  early  as  1739,  after  one  year's  residence 
I'n  the  valley,  a  lot  of  land  across  the  Mohawk  [the  Fort 
Johnson  property]  on  which  ran  a  stream  of  water,  the  Chuc- 
tanunda  Creek  [?],with  abundance  of  potential  mill  power.  To 
ride  horseback  with  bags  fifteen  miles  to  Caughnawaga  [?] 
every  time  meal  was  needed,  was  too  much  loss  of  time." 
The  facts  are  these  :  Lewis  Groot's  mill  at  Cranesville  was  only 
two  miles  from  Warrensbush,  and  was  established  in  1730. 
Caughnawaga  was  only  ten  miles  away,  instead  of  fifteen,  and 
did  not  have  a  grist  mill  until  after  175 1,  which  was  the  date 
that  Dowe  Fonda  moved  from  Schenectady  to  the  place  after- 
wards known  as  Dutch  Caughnawaga.  As  Johnson  erected  his 
grist  mill  at  Fort  Johnson  in  1744,  and  Groot's  mill,  built  in 
1730,  the  only  grist  mill  west  of  the  Schenectady  patent,  was 
only  two  miles  away,  it  is  plain  that  Griffis's  statements  are 
somewhat  mixed. 

The  settlement  on  the  Kayaderos  Creek  was  formerly 
called  Mount  Johnson,  but  when  the  place  was  threatened  by 
the  French,  in  1755,  it  was  fortified,  and  in  1756  named  Fort 
Johnson.  During  the  last  few  years  the  place  has  been  called 
Akin.  While  we  can  appreciate  the  desire  of  a  family  to  per- 
petuate its  name,  we  cannot  help  a  feeling  of  regret  that  this 
old.  historic  spot,  from  which  Sir  William  Johnson  ruled  the 
savage  Iroquois,  does  not  continue  to  bear  the  name  which  he 
gave  it,  and  by  which  it  was  known  for  a  century  and  a  half. 

It  was  on  these  flats  that  William  Johnson  first  met  Molly 
Brant  (whose  home  was  at  the  Canajoharie  Castle).     W.  L. 


134  The  Mohawk  Valley 

Stone  gives  the  date  of  this  meeting  as  1746,  Griffis,  1759. 
The  former  date  is  nearer  correct.  Stone  assumes  that  Cath- 
erine was  dead  at  that  date,  because  she  was  not  mentioned 
in  a  letter  written  by  Mr.  James  Wilson,  of  Albany,  dated 
November  26,  1745,  inviting  William  Johnson  to  make  his 
home  at  his  (Wilson's)  mother's  house,  until  all  fears  of 
French  invasion  were  dispelled.  Stone  says:  "  The  entire 
silence  of  this  letter  in  regard  to  Mrs.  Johnson,  and  the  ap- 
propriation of  only  a  single  room  for  his  occupancy,  induces 
the  supposition  that  she  must  have  died  previous  to  the  time 
when  it  was  written.  Still  this  is  merely  conjectural,  and,  to 
say  the  truth,  but  little  can  be  ascertained  respecting  Mr- 
Johnson's  domestic  relations  for  several  years  of  this  portion 
of  his  life. 

An  examination  of  the  records  at  the  Montgomery  County 
clerk's  oflfice  at  Fonda,  in  order  to  ascertain  what  disposition 
was  made  of  the  lands  of  Sir  John  Johnson,  Colonel  Guy 
Johnson,  and  Daniel  Claus,  reveals  the  following  facts :  First, 
that  the  Guy  Park  mile  square  was  formerly  the  Hoofe  patent, 
granted  to  Henry  Hoofe  December  12,  1727,  and  the  Daniel 
Claus  property  and  the  Fort  Johnson  mile  square  were  parts 
of  the  Wilson  and  Abeel  patent,  granted  to  Ebenezer  Wilson 
and  John  Abeel,  the  father  of  the  celebrated  half-breed  Corn- 
planter  who  was  on  General  Washington's  staff  during  the 
Revolution.  This  patent  was  granted  February  22,  1706,  but 
it  is  thought  that  the  patentees  did  not  settle  on  it.  The 
records  show  that  it  was  subsequently  included  in  the  Kings- 
land  or  Royal  Grant  to  Sir  William  Johnson. 

We  are  unable  to  find  the  name  of  the  purchaser  of  the 
Fort  Johnson  property  from  the  commissioners  of  forfeiture, 
but  we  find  that  in  1800  the  property  belonged  to  Jacob  C. 
Cuyler  and  John  C.  Cuyler,  who  sold  to  Jeremiah  Schuyler 
on  February  22,    1817.     Schuyler  conveyed  to  John  J.  Van 


Guy  Park  and  Fort  Johnson  137 

Schaick,  January  8,  1820;  Van  Schaick  to  George  Maxwell, 
December  14,  1824;  Maxwell  to  George  Smith,  January  26, 
1826.  George  Smith  died  intestate  August  26,  1828;  the 
property  was  then  divided  into  nine  parcels  and  all  sold  be- 
tween 1836  and  1844. 

The  Fort  Johnson  mansion  and  the  land  adjoining  was  pur- 
chased by  Dr.  Oliver  Davidson,  and  subsequently  sold  to 
Almarin  Young,  who  afterwards  sold  it  to  the  present  owner, 
Ethan  Akin. 

The  Daniel  Claus  property,  which  embraced  about  eight 
hundred  acres,  was  sold  by  the  commissioner  of  forfeiture  to 
James  Caldwell,  October  16,  1786. 

Guy  Park  was  conveyed  by  the  commissioners  to  John 
Taylor  and  James  Caldwell,  who  conveyed  to  Daniel  Miles, 
July  6,  1 790;  Miles  conveyed  to  Sarah  and  James  McGorck 
in  1 800;  McGorck  to  John  V.  Henry  in  1805;  John  V.  Henry 
to  Henry  Bayard ;  Bayard  to  James  Stewart  in  1845  of  4^- 

After  the  flight  of  the  Johnsons  and  previous  to  the  act  of 
attainder  and  confiscation  in  1779,  the  Fort  Johnson  mansion 
was  occupied  by  Albert  H.  Vedder,  the  Daniel  Claus  residence 
by  Col.  John  Harper,  and  Guy  Park  by  Henry  Kennedy. 

Guy  Park  was  built  in  1766  and  was  originally  constructed 
of  wood.  It  is  said  that  this  building  was  burned  by  being 
struck  by  lightning  and  was  replaced  with  the  present  stone 
structure  or,  rather,  the  main  part  of  it.  In  general  appearance 
and  construction  it  was  similar  to  the  mansion  at  Fort  John- 
son, being  \jjf  11  built  with  irregular  blocks  of  limestone  and  the 
usual  substantial  walls,  having  the  deep  recessed  windows  that 
are  so  often  seen  in  Colonial  buildings.  The  roof  was  four 
square  and  must  have  had  the  same  appearance  as  the  former 
roof  of  Queen  Anne's  parsonage  at  Fort  Hunter.  The  ap- 
pearance of  the  front  and  rear  of  the  house  was  similar,  both 
having  a  long,  wide  piazza.       A   wide  hall  ran  through  the 


138  The  Mohawk  Valley 

centre  of  the  house,  broad,  winding  stairs  leading  to  the  broad 
hall  of  the  floor  above.  The  rooms  were  spacious  and  well 
finished,  with  panelled  wainscoting,  and  must  have  impressed 
the  beholder  in  those  primitive  days  with  the  thought  of 
grandeur.  We  may  try  as  much  as  we  can  to  imagine  that  it 
was  constructed  on  the  same  general  plan  as  Fort  Johnson, 
still  there  was  something  about  its  proportions  that  must  have 
made  it  more  pleasing  to  the  eye  than  that  sombre  building. 

Mr.  James  Stewart  must  have  been  a  man  of  taste,  and 
had  a  proper  conception  of  the  fitness  of  things  when  he  made 
the  necessary  changes  in  the  building  after  purchasing  it. 
While  retaining  the  old  building  he  made  such  changes  and 
additions  to  it  that  to-day  it  is  one  of  the  most  attractive  and 
I  might  say  the  only  colonial  mansion  in  the  Mohawk  Valley. 
There  are  a  few  other  old  buildings,  but  none  of  them  impresses 
one  at  once  with  both  age  and  beauty  as  this  one  does. 
Surrounded  as  it  is  by  green  fields  and  stately  elms,  and  with  a 
background  of  the  Mohawk  with  its  wooded  islands  and  the 
hills  with  their  evergreen  slopes,  one  would  almost  expect  to 
see  the  birchen  canoe  of  the  painted  Mohawk  gliding  by,  or 
hear  the  war  cry  of  the  Algonquin  in  the  woods  in  the  rear, 
were  it  not  for  the  rattle  and  roar  and  rumble  of  the  Empire 
State  express,  while  the  West  Shore  on  the  opposite  bank 
adds  to  the  uproar  with  shrieks  that  would  make  the  red  man 
green  with  envy. 

J.  R.  Simms,  in  Frontiersmen,  speaks  of  a  visit  to  this 
building  and  of  a  conversation  with  Henry  Bayard  in  1846, 
who  was  then  the  owner  and  occupant.  "  After  the  revolu- 
tion it  was  for  years  a  public  house  known  as  a  stage  house. 
The  front  room  on  the  east  side  of  the  hall  was  the  bar  room. 
While  occupied  as  an  inn  the  house  was  literally  surrounded 
by  sheds — a  custom  of  the  times — to  accommodate  the  large 
wagons  then  transporting  merchandise  and  produce." 


Guy  Park  and  Fort  Johnson  139 

The  building  is  said  to  have  been  built  by  mechanics  from 
Europe,  probably  by  Samuel  Fuller,  the  architect  of  Johnson 
Hall,  Johnstown. 

Tradition  says  that  in  one  of  the  rooms  at  Guy  Park  a 
ghost  resembling  the  then  deceased  wife  of  Guy  Johnson  oc- 
casionally appeared,  to  the  great  annoyance  of  the  credulous 
Kennedy  family.  Even  in  the  daytime  they  were  more  than 
once  alarmed.  About  this  time  a  German,  a  stranger  to  the 
family,  called  there  and  seemed  very  much  interested  in  the 
ghost  story  and  expressed  a  willingness  to  pass  the  night  in 
the  "  spook  room,"  asking  if  the  spook  resembled  Guy  John- 
son's wife.  Being  told  that  it  did  and  receiving  permission  to 
occupy  the  room  at  night  he  retired  early,  saying  that  he  was 
well  armed.  Before  daylight  a  commotion  was  heard  in  the 
haunted  room  followed  by  the  report  of  a  pistol. 

The  family  thus  aroused  procured  a  light  and  upon  enter- 
ing the  room  found  the  stranger  up  and  dressed.  He  de- 
clared he  had  seen  or  heard  the  ghost  and  had  discharged  his 
pistol  at  it.  He  concluded  that  he  would  not  go  to  bed 
again,  ordered  his  horse  and  left  before  daylight,  saying  on 
his  departure  that  the  family  would  not  again  be  annoyed  by 
that  ghost,  and  it  never  was. 

The  mystery  of  the  ghost  has  been  thus  explained.  Many 
valuable  articles  were  undoubtedly  left  behind  by  the  Tories 
in  their  hurried  flight  to  Canada,  who  expected  to  soon  return 
and  recover  them,  but  when  they  found  the  prospect  of  return 
cut  off  they  attempted  to  obtain  them  through  the  mystery 
of  superstition.  An  attempt  was  made  by  a  female  agent, 
who  was  thought  to  be  the  ghost  of  Guy  Johnson's  wife,  to 
obtain  possession  of  family  treasures  by  taking  advantage  of 
the  credulity  of  the  occupants  of  the  building,  but  she  not 
succeeding  a  male  agent  was  employed  with  greater  success. 
Through  Mrs.  James  Stewart,  in  1879,  ^'*-  Simms,  in  company 


I40  The  Mohawk  Valley 

with  Geo.  S.  Devendorf,  obtained  a  key  to  this  mystery. 
On  the  west  side  of  the  hall  were  two  rooms.  In  the  corner 
room  on  its  west  side  was  a  fireplace  of  the  large  old- 
fashioned  kind,  and  on  each  side  of  it  the  room  was  wains- 
coted in  panels  from  floor  to  ceiling.  The  space  over  the 
mantel  was  also  covered  with  carved  panelling.  In  this  ceiling, 
on  each  side  of  the  fireplace,  were  small  closets  several  inches 
deep  and  several  feet  long  with  a  door  which  closed  with  a 
secret  spring.  In  one  or  both  of  these,  it  is  supposed,  were 
placed  some  valuable  papers  and  jewelry,  of  which  the 
stranger  was  undoubtedly  aware,  and  was  also  familiar  with 
the  secret  spring.  Having  once  gained  access  to  the  room  and 
obtaining  possession  of  the  treasures  he  departed,  and  having 
no  more  use  for  the  ghost  it  departed  also. 

When  Mr.  James  Stewart  remodelled  that  part  of  the 
house  the  chimney  was  removed  and  with  it  the  ceiling, 
not  only  disclosing  but  forever  destroying  those  little  secret 
chambers. 

The  floors  of  this  building  are  all  of  pitch  pine  and  the 
house  for  the  period  was  exceedingly  well  constructed.  It  is 
said  that  at  a  subsequent  period  a  quantity  of  leaden  window 
weights  were  found  buried  in  the  orchard  west  of  the  house 
probably  put  there  to  prevent  the  Whigs  from  using  them 
to  mould  into  bullets. 

Mary  Johnson,  daughter  of  Sir  William,  married  Lieut. 
Guy  Johnson  in  the  spring  of  1763.  He  was  born  in  Ireland, 
was  a  nephew  of  the  baronet  and  came  to  live  with  him  early 
in  life.  He  was  long  associated  with  Sir  William  as  his  dep- 
uty; and  was  made  commissioner  of  the  Indians  at  Sir  Wil- 
liam's death  in  1774.  He,  too,  went  to  Canada  prior  to  the 
flight  of  Sir  John  and  his  retainers.  He  died  in  London 
March  5,  1788,  whither  he  had  gone  in  straitened  circum- 
stances to  petition  for  relief,  in  lieu  of  his  forfeited  estates  in 


Guy  Park  and  Fort  Johnson  141 

Tryon  County.      His  wife  is  said  to  have  died  in  Canada  a 
short  time  after  she  went  there. 

An  item  in  the  will  of  Sir  William  Johnson  defines  the  wes- 
tern boundary  of  the  original  Guy  Park  mile  square  and  the 
eastern  and  western  boundary  of  Colonel  Claus's  estate.  He 
bequeaths  to  "  Daniel  Claus  the  tract  of  land  where  he  now 
lives,  viz.,  from  Dove  Kill  to  the  creek  which  lies  about  four 
hundred  yards  to  the  northward  (westward)  of  the  now  dwel- 
ling-place of  Colonel  Guy  Johnson."  (The  Guy  Park  man- 
sion.) About  eight  hundred  acres. 

The  creek  called  Dove  Kill  crosses  the  turnpike  near  the 
residence  of  Obediah  Wilde  at  Fort  Johnson,  the  other  creek 
spoken  of  (which  had  been  erroneously  called  Dove  Creek) 
runs  near  the  dwelling-place  of  the  late  Abram  Marcellus  on 
the  Boulevard. 

The  Fort  Johnson  tract  was  originally  a  mile  square  and 
was  conveyed  as  such  by  the  successive  owners  until  after 
1836,  when  it  was  divided  by  the  heirs  of  George  Smith  into 
nine  parcels  and  sold  between  1836  and  1844. 

At  present  about  twenty  acres  of  land  and  the  stone  man- 
sion is  all  that  is  left  of  the  Fort  Johnson  mile  square. 

It  is  said  that  when  the  stone  mansion  was  built  in  1743  it 
was  called  Mount  Johnson,  at  which  time  a  grist  mill  was 
erected.  A  portion  of  the  walls  of  this  mill  has  in  late  years 
been  incorporated  in  a  part  of  the  Morris  mills  in  the  rear  of 
the  Fort  Johnson  building.  Harold  Frederic's  description  (in 
his  book  In  the  Valley)  of  the  place  in  1757,  after  it  was  for- 
tified,  is  undoubtedly  correct.  He  makes  his  hero  say:  "  It 
could  not  be  seen  from  the  intervening  hills,  but  so  important 
was  the  fact  of  its  presence  to  me  that  I  never  looked  east- 
ward without  seeming  to  behold  its  gray  stone  walls  with  their 
windows  and  loopholes,  its  stockade  of  logs,  its  two  little 
houses  on  either  side,  its  barracks  for  the  guard  upon  the  ridge 


142  The  Mohawk  Valley 

back  of  the  grist  mill,  and  its  accustomed  groups  of  grinning 
black  slaves,  all  eyeballs  and  white  teeth,  of  saturnine  Indians 
in  blankets,  and  of  bold-faced  traders,"  to  say  nothing  of 
squaws  and  children. 

There  were  always  plenty  of  squaws  and  children  at  the 
fort  in  war  time,  as  Sir  William  often  took  care  of  the  families 
of  the  warriors  when  they  were  on  the  war  path. 

Did  you  ever  hear  of  an  Indian  working  ?  Can  you  im- 
agine an  Indian  making  mortar  or  carrying  a  hod  or  perhaps 
digging  a  trench  ? 

An  article  in  one  of  the  daily  papers,  however,  a  few  days 
ago,  said  that  Poles  and  Indians  were  employed  to  pick  the 
cranberry  crop  in  Wisconsin.  The  Indians  move  their  tepees 
and  families,  and  were  liked  better  as  laborers  than  the  Poles, 
because  they  took  whatever  pay  was  given  them  without 
grumbling,  but  would  not  begin  work  before  nine  o'clock  and 
would  quit  at  four,  no  matter  how  pressing  the  work  was,  and 
would  pay  no  attention  to  the  orders  of  the  overseers. 

Fort  Johnson  has  its  ghost  story  also,  although  in  this  case 
its  color  was  black  instead  of  white,  and  is  now  supposed  to 
have  been  one  of  Sir  John  Johnson's  slaves,  who  probably  re- 
turned to  obtain  valuables  that  had  been  left  behind  at  the 
flight  of  the  household. 

Mr.  Almarin  T.  Young,  who  was  born  at  Fort  Johnson  in 
1852,  says  that  the  northwest  room  in  the  rear  of  the  house 
upstairs  was  always  called  the  **  spook  room,"  and  as  a  child 
he  never  went  inside  of  it. 

The  interior  and  exterior  are  practically  the  same  as  when 
vacated  by  Sir  John  Johnson.  Of  course  its  stockade  of  logs 
that  formerly  surrounded  the  building  and  the  two  little  forts 
in  front  were  destroyed  years  ago,  probably  soon  after  the  last 
French  War,  but  the  house  presents  the  same  appearance  that 
it  did  when  erected.     The  covering  of  the  roof  has  been  re- 


Guy  Park  and  Fort  Johnson  145 

placed  by  one  of  substantial  slate,  but  the  old  timbers  and  the 
high  peak  and  dormer  windows  with  their  small  panes  of  glass 
have  been  retained.  The  size  of  the  building  is  forty  feet  deep 
by  sixty  feet  front  and  rear,  two  stories  high,  with  lofty  attic. 

A  broad  hall  extends  from  front  to  rear,  with  large  rooms 
on  each  side,  which,  together  with  the  hall,  are  ceiled  with  pan- 
elled wainscoting.  The  stairs,  with  their  slim  balusters  and 
diminutive  hand  rail  of  mahogany,  would  detract  somewhat 
from  the  spacious  hall  and  the  grand  room  on  the  west,  if  we 
did  not  know  that  they  were  only  another  evidence  of  the 
colonial  period. 

We  can  easily  imagine  such  a  building  being  presided  over 
by  a  Dutch  matron  of  colonial  days,  with  snowy  cap  and  ker- 
chief, but  the  thought  of  Molly  Brant  and  her  dusky  brood 
and  a  crowd  of  her  slovenly  relatives  scattered  through  these 
grand  rooms  seems  somewhat  out  of  place. 

One  Sunday  morning  in  December,  when  the  sky  was 
dropping  huge  flakes  of  snow,  which  vanished  as  they  fell  on 
the  wet,  muddy  streets  of  the  city,  but  emphasized  the  bright 
green  of  the  belated  spears  of  grass  among  which  they  lodged, 
I  accepted  the  kind  invitation  of  Mr.  Theron  Akin  to  visit  the 
old  Fort  Johnson  mansion  left  vacant  by  the  family  of  his 
father,  Mr.  Ethan  Akin,  in  its  annual  flitting  to  more  con- 
genial quarters  in  New  York  City. 

On  such  an  errand  it  would  have  been  more  in  keeping, 
perhaps,  if  we  had  trudged  along  on  foot  or  horseback,  rather 
than  to  have  taken  passage  in  an  electric  car  of  the  nineteenth 
century.  Being  a  very  stormy  Sunday  the  little  hamlet  was 
quiet,  and  no  human  being  was  visible  except  ourselves  when 
we  passed  the  gate  and  up  under  the  bare  branches  of  the  aged 
trees  in  the  grove  in  front  of  the  house,  the  gray  walls  of 
which  frowned  upon  us  as  though  they  were  aware  of  their 
antiquity. 


146  The  Mohawk  Valley 

Approaching  the  front  of  the  house  we  paused  a  moment 
to  gaze  on  the  slab  of  brown  stone  in  front  of  the  main  en- 
trance, the  edges  of  which  had  been  dressed  by  a  carver's 
chisel  into  an  ovolo  moulding,  giving  the  slab  the  appearance 
of  having  been  prepared  for  the  top  of  a  small  tomb  or  sarco- 
phagus such  as  are  frequently  seen  in  old  cemeteries.  For 
whom  beside  Catherine  Weisenburg  would  Sir  William  have 
prepared  this  stone  ?  The  man  who  discovers  her  grave  (which 
is  supposed  to  be  somewhere  near  the  west  side  of  the  build- 
ing) would  deserve  and  receive  the  praise  of  the  antiquarians 
of  the  Mohawk  Valley. 

We  enter  the  house  from  the  rear  or  north  side,  and 
pass  at  once  into  a  broad  hall  which  extends  from  front  to 
rear.  We  have  heard  no  sound  since  alighting  from  the  car, 
except  our  own  voices,  the  swish  of  the  waters  of  the  Kaya- 
deros  swelled  to  a  torrent,  the  soughing  of  the  trees,  and 
the  dismal  drip,  drip,  drip  of  the  storm  without.  The  closed 
shutters,  the  dreary  appearance  of  a  house  unoccupied,  and 
the  antique  appearance  of  the  surroundings  carry  me  back  a 
century  and  a  quarter  to  the  flight  of  the  household  of  Sir 
John  Johnson,  and,  as  I  become  more  accustomed  to  the  dim 
light,  I  almost  expect  to  see  a  scarlet  coat  with  gilt  lace  and 
the  blanket  or  moccasin  of  an  Indian,  hurriedly  left  behind. 

This  hall  is  grand  in  its  proportions,  being  thirty-five  feet 
long,  fifteen  feet  wide,  and  perhaps  ten  feet  high,  with  pan- 
elled walls  and  broad  oaken  stairway  with  plain  mahogany  bal- 
luster  and  rail  leading  to  the  lofty  attic  above. 

The  large  room  on  the  west  side  of  the  hall,  with  its  lofty 
panelled  walls  and  broad,  deep  windows,  seems  to  have  been, 
and  undoubtedly  was,  a  room  built  for  Sir  William's  use,  his 
reception-room. 

And  I  almost  expected  to  see  him  seated  at  his  desk  in  the 
centre,  with  implements  of  war  and  the  chase  adorning  the 


Guy  Park  and  Fort  Johnson  149 

walls,  giving  audience  to  the  rude  soldiers  and  savages  of 
those  primitive  days.  Opposite  this  room  is  another  room  of 
nearly  the  same  dimensions,  but  having  the  appearance  of  be- 
ing designed  for  a  parlor  or  drawing-room.  Back  of  these 
rooms  are  two  long,  narrow  rooms  whose  dimensions  seem  to 
have  been  sacrificed  to  swell  the  size  of  the  grand  rooms  in 
front. 

The  rooms  and  hall  on  the  second  floor  correspond  with 
those  below  except  that  the  panelling  is  confined  to  one  end 
of  the  room  and  forms  closets  on  each  side  of  the  wide  and 
deep  chimney,  and  seems  to  suggest  some  secret  recess  or 
closets  the  same  as  were  found  in  the  Guy  Park  mansion.  In 
the  southeast  room  is  found  a  quaint  addition  to  the  fire- 
place—  a  primitive  cast-iron  heating  apparatus  which  is  prac- 
tically an  open  iron  fireplace,  and  bears  on  its  face  these 
words: 

Ross  and  Bird's  Hibernian  Furnace,  1783. 

The  two  long  and  narrow  rooms  in  the  rear  are  dreary  with 
their  bare,  white,  plaster  walls  and  low,  dark  wainscoting  of 
cherry  birch.  The  windows  are  broad  and  deep,  the  sash  with 
small  panes  of  glass,  and  covered  with  inside  shutters  of 
cherry  birch.  One  of  these  rooms,  the  northwest,  is  the 
haunted  room  spoken  of  before,  but  what  particular  antics  the 
ghosts  perform  I  have  been  unable  to  ascertain. 

I  found  the  lofty  attic  very  interesting  indeed.  Its  large 
size  and  massive  timbers,  its  two  rows  of  dormer  windows 
and  lofty  peak,  its  floor  made  of  broad  boards  (from  twelve  to 
fifteen  inches  wide),  the  rough,  hand-made  wrought  nails,  the 
bare  chimneys  of  small  Holland  brick,  and  the  "  lookout  " 
window  at  the  very  peak,  made  a  fitting  suj^erstructure  to  the 
quaint  rooms  below. 


150  The  Mohawk  Valley 

The  roof  was  formerly  covered  with  sheet  lead,  which  will 
account  for  the  heavy  timber  used  in  its  construction.  This 
lead,  together  with  the  window  weights,  was  used  for  bullets 
during  the  Revolution.  The  lead  covering  of  the  roof  was  re- 
placed with  shingles,  but  the  window  weights  were  never  re- 
placed. Subsequently  the  shingles  were  replaced  by  the 
substantial  slate  roof  of  the  present  day. 

From  the  attic  we  descended  to  the  cellar.  When  the 
building  was  constructed  about  one-third  of  the  cellar  was 
used  as  a  kitchen  and  separated  from  it  by  a  thick  stone  wall, 
making  a  room  of  about  twenty  by  thirty  feet.  On  the  east 
side  was  a  massive  brick  oven  and  fireplace,  used  for  cooking. 
The  floor  of  the  kitchen  was  covered  with  stone  slabs  and  the 
room  was  lighted  by  the  door  and  two  small  windows  about 
twenty  inches  high.  The  four  large  chimneys  are  supported 
by  arches  about  five  feet  high,  four  feet  wide,  and  four  feet 
deep.  These  arches  or  vaults  were  closed  by  massive  wooden 
doors  and  used  for  various  purposes.  At  some  time,  probably 
when  the  house  was  constructed,  a  narrow  room  about  thirty 
feet  long  and  fifteen  feet  wide  was  cut  off  from  the  main  cellar 
and  very  likely  used  as  a  dining-room  for  the  servants.  The 
descent  into  the  cellar  was  made  by  a  steep,  winding  stair, 
and  probably  was  not  used  very  often,  as  the  kitchen  was  en- 
tered from  the  outside. 

I  have  often  wondered  why  tradition  did  not  point  to  some 
tragedy  connected  with  this  old  building,  but  recently  I  have 
found  one  of  murder  with  all  its  horrors.  It  comes  to  me  from 
two  sources,  both  agreeing  on  the  main  points. 

Sometime  near  the  beginning  of  the  present  century  a 
building  used  as  a  store  stood  where  Mr.  Shepard's  residence 
stands  now,  on  the  corner  east  of  the  creek,  about  opposite 
Fort  Johnson. 

This  buildinsf  was  afterwards  removed  to  Amsterdam  vil- 


Ma; 


bctady  in  1695. — ^*^^-  John  Miller. 


(Ori^lfltf/  in  SriltlA  .Mulium.  i 


2   "W 


7-; 


Explanation. 

,...    Block  house.,                                      8-  The  block  house  designed  for 

l  2     River*  running  Inside  y'  Fort.  a  church 

3.3.   Io<Han5  Wigwam*.                         9-9-  Those  and    others   hke    them 

4.   Flagstaff.  ^o"»"; 

5    C-enTv  ho«.                                       10-  A  great  barn. 

;?              ^                                       ii.n.  The  treble  stoclcadoes. 

J  2. 12.  The  Fort  Gates. 


riOgS. 


Guy  Park  and  Fort  Johnson  153 

lage  and  erected  on  a  lot  east  of  the  sand  hole  on  West  Main 
Street.  It  was  a  low,  one-and-a-half-story  house,  with  square, 
white  pillars  in  front,  the  main  part  of  the  house  being 
painted  an  impossible  shade  of  heliotrope. 

Tradition  says  that  a  poor,  worthless  fellow,  somewhat 
under  the  influence  of  liquor,  went  into  the  store  one  night 
and  got  into  a  quarrel  with  the  storekeeper,  who,  in  a  fit  of 
anger,  struck  the  fellow  on  the  head  with  a  poker.  The  fellow 
staggered  out  of  the  store  into  the  darkness  of  the  night. 

A  friend  of  the  storekeeper  who  was  present  when  the  blow 
was  struck  said  to  him  :  "  That  was  a  terrible  blow  you  struck 
that  fellow;  you  had  better  go  out  and  see  what  has  become 
of  him." 

He  did  so,  and  found  him  a  short  distance  away,  dead. 
With  the  assistance  of  his  friend  the  body  was  carried  to  Fort 
Johnson,  his  residence,  placed  in  the  cellar  and  in  a  cask  of 
whiskey  until  the  ice  in  the  river  broke  up,  when  it  was  rolled 
to  the  river  and  sent  floating  on  its  way  to  the  sea. 

The  other  version  is  as  follows: 

The  drunken  fellow,  whose  name  is  said  to  have  been  Joe 
Burke,  instead  of  being  struck  with  a  poker,  struck  the  store- 
keeper and  fled,  pursued  by  the  angry  merchant  with  a  gun, 
who  saw  the  fellow  enter  Fort  Johnson  and  pass  up  the  stairs 
toward  the  attic.  Just  as  Burke  reached  the  attic  stairs  the 
merchant  fired  and  killed  him,  his  blood  spattering  the  stair- 
casing.  The  body  was  removed  to  the  cellar  and  buried  under 
one  of  the  vaults,  which  was  probably  used  for  storing  spiritu- 
ous liquors.  The  matter  was  hushed  up  and  is  only  known 
now  by  tradition. 

Leaving  this  gruesome  tale  with  you  to  receive  or  reject, 
I  will  tell  another  story  which  has  the  element  of  comedy  in 
it  instead  of  tragedy.  It  is  said  that  a  daughter  of  Dr. 
Oliver  Davidson,  at  one  time  an  owner  and  occupant  of  Fort 


154  The  Mohawk  Valley 

Johnson,  wrote  the  following  poem,  which  many  persons  who 
read  this  may  remember  to  have  heard  in  their  youth: 

SALE    OF    OLD    BACHELORS. 

I  dreamed  a  dream  in  the  midst  of  my  slumbers, 
And  as  fast  as  I  dreamed  it  was  coined  into  numbers; 
My  thoughts  ran  along  in  such  beautiful  metre 
I  'm  sure  I  ne'er  saw  any  poetry  sweeter. 
It  seemed  that  a  law  had  been  recently  made, 
That  a  tax  on  old  bachelors'  pates  should  be  laid. 
And  in  order  to  make  them  all  willing  to  marry 
The  tax  was  as  large  as  they  could  well  carry. 

The  bachelors  grumbled  and  said,  "  'T  was  no  use, 

'T  was  horrid  injustice  and  cruel  abuse." 

And  declared  that  to  save  their  own  heart's  blood  from  spilling 

Of  such  a  vile  tax  they  would  ne'er  pay  a  shilling. 

But  the  rulers  determined  their  scheme  to  pursue. 
So  they  set  the  old  bachelors  up  at  vendue. 
A  crier  was  sent  through  the  town  to  and  fro 
To  rattle  his  bell  and  his  trumpet  to  blow, 
And  to  call  out  aloud  as  he  went  on  his  way 
"  Ho!  forty  old  bachelors  sold  here  to-day!  " 

And  presently  all  the  old  maids  of  the  town. 

Each  one  in  her  very  best  bonnet  and  gown, 

From  thirty  to  sixty,  fair,  ruddy,  and  pale. 

Of  every  description,  all  flocked  to  the  sale. 

The  auctioneer  then  at  his  labor  began 

And  cried  out  aloud,  as  he  held  up  a  man, 

"  How  much  for  a  bachelor!     Who  wants  to  buy  ?  " 

In  a  twinkle  each  maiden  responded,    "I!  I!  " 

In  short,  at  a  highly  extravagant  price 

The  bachelors  were  all  sold  off  in  a  trice. 

And  forty  old  maidens,  some  younger,  some  older. 

Each  lugged  an  old  bachelor  home  on  her  shoulder. 


Chapter  X 
In  the  Old  Town  of  Amsterdam 

IN  order  to  ascertain  the  names  of  the  first  purchasers  of 
land  in  the  city  and  town  of  Amsterdam  I  have  found  it 
necessary  to  go  back  to  the  township  of  Schenectady  and 
its  first  patent.  This  patent  granted  sixteen  miles  (on 
both  sides  of  the  river  above  and  below  the  present  city)  of 
the  Great  Flats  or  Mohawk  Flats  as  the  lowlands  were  then 
called.  These  flats,  being  cleared  and  free  from  timber  and  of 
very  rich  soil,  were  all  ready  for  the  plough  and  eagerly  sought 
for  by  the  settlers.  At  the  time  of  the  first  settlement  the 
land  immediately  surrounding  the  stockade  was  divided  into 
house  lots  and  bouwlands,  which  were  apportioned  to  each 
of  the  fourteen  settlers.  Later  the  hindmost  lands  were 
taken  up  as  farms,  and  about  1680  and  subsequent  to  that 
date  the  great  flats  were  disposed  of  to  others  who  wished  to 
locate  near  the  settlement.  Gradually  the  settlers  crept  up 
along  the  river  until  they  reached  the  limit  of  the  Schenectady 
patent.  At  this  extreme  limit  on  the  north  side  we  found 
the  twenty  acres  granted  Geraldus  Cambefort  or  Comfort 
April  22,  1703.  Only  twenty  acres  of  flat  land  was  conveyed 
by  this  grant,  but  it  was  generally  understood  that  the  settler 
could  take  as  much  woodland  in  the  rear  as  he  cared  to  ap- 
propriate. Next  came  the  lands  of  Philip  Groot  at  Cranes- 
ville,  formerly  called  Claas  Gravenshoek,  or,  by  the  natives, 
Adriucha.  This  included  all  the  flats  and  islands  between 
Lewis  Creek  and  Eva's-kill  about  one  mile,  and  as  far  north  as 
he  should  choose  to  take. 

155 


156  The  Mohawk  Valley 

This  patent  was  issued  by  Governor  Dongan  in  1687  to 
Hendrick  Cuyler  for  flatlands  and  uplands  at  "  Claas  Graven- 
shoek."  After  Cuyler's  death,  Ann  Cuyler,  his  widow,  and 
John,  his  eldest  son,  sold  the  same  to  Carel  Hanson  Toll  for 
^180  ($360  in  those  days). 

Philip  Groot  bought  this  land  in  171 5  of  Toll  and  was  suc- 
ceeded by  his  son  Lewis.  It  remained  in  the  Groot  family 
until  within  a  few  years.  It  is  now  in  possession  of  Francis 
Morris. 

Lewis  Groot,  about  1798,  in  his  testimony  before  the  com- 
mission appointed  to  settle  the  dispute  between  the  proprie- 
tors of  the  Schenectady  and  Kayaderosseras  Patents,  said  that 
Comfort's  patent  extended  west  to  the  creek  on  which  Groot's 
mill  stood  (Lewis  Creek).     Comfort  was  living  as  late  as  1720, 

Lord  Cornbury,  governor  of  the  province,  in  1703  granted 
Comforter  Cambefort,  a  patent  for  twenty  acres  of  land  and 
the  "  hindermost  woodland,"  as  the  land  back  of  the  flat 
was  then  called. 

In  1707  Comfort  conveyed  this  land  to  Carel  Hanson  Toll, 
who  conveyed  it  to  his  son-in-law,  Johannes  Van  Eps.  It  is 
said  that  at  this  time  Toll  owned  all  of  the  flats  on  the  north 
side  of  the  Mohawk  west  of  Schenectady  and  east  of  Philip 
Groot's  place,  Adriucha. 

On  the  south  side  of  the  river  the  same  method  was  pur- 
sued until  we  came  to  the  Willegen  Vlachte  (Willow  Flats). 

Pieter  Danielse  Van  O'Linda's  name  is  found  on  the  petition 
for  the  Schenectady  charter  in  1663,  and  is  one  of  the  few  who 
wrote  his  own  name.  Cornelius  Antonisse  Van  Slyke,  alias 
Broer  Cornelius,  is  said  to  have  married  a  Mohawk  Indian 
woman,  by  whom  he  had  several  children, — three  sons,  Jacques, 
Marten,  and  Cornelius,  and  two  daughters,  Hilletie  and  Lea. 
He  died  in  1676.  Jacques  received  grants  from  the  Indians  as 
his  right  from  his  mother,  the  Mohawk  woman.      Pieter  Van 


WINTER    ON    THE    EVA'S-KILL    KUAD,    CRANES\TLLE 


157 


In  the  Old  Town  of  Amsterdam  159 

Olinda,  spoken  of  above,  married  Hilletie  Cornelise  Van 
Slyke,  the  Mohawk  half-breed,  through  whom  he  received 
valuable  grants  of  land,  among  which  was  half  of  the  Willow 
Flats  below  Port  Jackson,  which  was  occupied  by  their  descen- 
dants until  within  a  few  years.  This  land  was  east  of  and  ad- 
joining the  old  Phillips  place  at  the  two  locks  about  opposite 
Cranesville.  He  died  in  1715,  leaving  the  Willows  to  Jacob 
Van  Olinda,  who  married  Eva,  daughter  of  Claus  DeGraaf. 
Hilletie,  though  born  and  brought  up  among  the  Mohawks 
near  Canajoharie,  (Indian  Castle)  was  soon  separated  from 
them  and  received  the  rudiments  of  a  Christian  education  in 
Albany  and  Schenectady.  She  made  an  excellent  use  of  her 
advantages,  and  is  spoken  of  as  an  estimable  woman.  Her 
story  is  very  interesting. 

She  was  born  of  a  Christian  father  (Van  Slyke)  and  an  Indian 
mother  of  the  Mohawk  tribes.  Her  mother  remained  in  the  country 
and  lived  among  the  Mohawks,  and  she  lived  with  her  the  same  as 
Indians  live  together.  Her  mother  would  never  listen  to  anything 
about  Christians,  as  it  was  against  her  heart  from  an  inward  un- 
founded hate.  As  Hilletie  sometimes  went  among  the  whites  to 
trade,  some  of  the  Christians  took  a  fancy  to  the  girl,  discovering 
more  resemblance  to  the  Christians  than  the  Indians,  and  wished  to 
take  her  and  bring  her  up,  but  her  mother  would  not  let  her  go. 
The  little  daughter  had  no  disposition  to  go  at  first,  but  she  felt  a 
great  inclination  and  love  in  her  heart  to  those  who  spoke  to  her 
about  Christ  and  the  Christian  religion.  Her  mother  observed  it 
and  grew  to  hate  her  and  finally  drove  her  from  her  forest  home. 
She  went  to  those  who  had  solicited  her  to  come  so  long.  She  had 
a  particular  desire  to  learn  to  read  and  finally  made  her  profession 
and  was  baptized. 

Philip  Phillipse  de  Moer  married  Elizabeth,  daughter  of 
Harmon  Ganzevoort,  of  Albany,  about  1685,  and  soon  after 
took  up  his  residence  in  the  township  of  Schenectady.  He 
owned  or  leased  a  portion  of  the  sixth  flat  on  the  north  side  of 
the  river  next  east  of  the  Comfort  Flat.  In  1689  he  ex- 
changed with  Claus  Willemse  Van  Coppernoll  for  the    west 


i6o  The  Mohawk  Valley 

half  of  Ihe  Willegen  Vlaghte,  lying  on  the  south  side  of  the 
river  about  one  mile  above  Philip  Groot's  farm,  which  lay  on 
the  north  side.  This  was  the  other  half  of  the  Willow  Flats 
occupied  by  Pieter  Van  Olinda. 

It  is  said  of  Philip  Phillipse  that  when  the  news  of  the  mas- 
sacre of  Schenectady  reached  the  settlers  along  the  river,  he 
fled  with  his  family  to  the  woods  and  lay  concealed  until  the 
French  and  Indians,  fearing  retaliation  from  the  aroused 
Dutchmen  and  their  friends,  the  Mohawks,  fled  to  Canada, 
with  the  settlers  in  hot  pursuit. 

With  Phillips  during  this  season  of  horrors  was  his  baby 
boy,  Lewis,  who,  when  a  man  and  engaged  as  a  farmer  and 
Indian  trader,  sold  Catherine  Weisenburg  to  Wm.  Johnson. 
The  true  story  as  handed  down  in  the  traditions  of  the  Phil- 
lips family  is  interesting,  even  though  stripped  of  the  usual 
embellishment  of  the  stories  of  J.  R.  Simms. 

It  is  said  that  about  1738,  during  one  of  Lewis  Phillips's 
periodical  visits  to  New  York  for  the  purpose  of  replenishing 
his  supplies,  he  met  among  other  emigrants  who  had  lately 
arrived  by  the  slow-sailing  vessels  of  those  early  days,  a  young 
German  girl,  who  importuned  him  to  purchase  her  for  service 
in  the  usual  manner,  by  paying  the  captain  of  the  vessel  for 
her  passage,  which  in  this  instance  amounted  to  sixteen 
pounds.  After  considering  the  matter  some  time,  he  con- 
cluded to  pay  the  sixteen  pounds  required  and  take  the  girl 
home  with  him. 

This  he  did,  and  upon  arrival  she  was  duly  installed  as 
servant  for  this  little  family  on  the  frontier.  This  servant  girl 
was  Catherine  Weisenburg,  who  in  a  short  time  attracted  the 
attention  of  William  Johnson.  It  seems  that  Johnson  was 
willing  to  pay  the  amount  that  Phillips  had  paid  for  her,  six- 
teen pounds,  and  Phillips  was  willing  that  he  should,  and  "  he 
got  the  gal." 


INTERIOR    OF    OLD    OROOT    MILL,    CKANESVILLE 


i6i 


In  the  Old  Town  of  Amsterdam  163 

Mr.  John  Hubbs,  a  respected  farmer  in  the  town  of 
Florida,  whose  ancestors  bought  the  farm  he  now  occupies  of 
William  Johnson,  being  part  of  the  Sir  Peter  Warren  estate, 
tells  the  following  story  about  Sir  William  and  his  propensity 
for  practical  joking.  One  day  while  yet  he  was  living  at  Fort 
Johnson,  an  Irishman,  presuming  on  the  fact  of  being  of  the 
same  nationality,  applied  to  him  for  a  job.  They  were  stand- 
ing under  the  trees  in  the  yard  at  Fort  Johnson,  through 
which  ran  the  Kayaderos  Creek.  "  What  kind  of  a  job 
do  you  want  ?  "  asked  Sir  William.  "  What  can  you  do  ?  " 
"Anything,  sur,"  said  the  Celt.  Sir  William  looked  at  him  a 
moment  with  a  twinkle  in  his  eye,  and  then  said,  pointing  to 
the  rippling  stream  at  their  feet,  "  Do  you  see  that  creek  ?  " 
"  Yes,  sur."  "  Well,  I  want  you  to  follow  that  stream  up 
through  the  forest  until  you  come  to  an  Indian  fishing.  If 
you  find  that  he  has  caught  any  fish,  bring  them  to  me." 
"  All  right,  sur,"  said  the  Irishman,  and  straightway  started 
up  the  creek  through  the  forest.  After  following  the  stream 
for  some  distance  he  came  in  sight  of  an  Indian  fishing  in  a 
little  pool  in  the  Hell  Hollow  ravine,  with  a  good-sized  string 
of  fish  by  his  side. 

Obeying  the  order  of  Sir  William  the  Irishman  approached 
the  Indian,  picked  up  the  fish,  and  started  to  return.  As  soon 
as  the  red  man  recovered  from  his  surprise  he  sprang  to  his  feet 
and  seized  the  string  of  speckled  beauties  also.  Then  came 
a  war  of  words  that  neither  could  understand,  which  finally  led 
to  blows  and  a  rough  and  tumble  fight,  which  resulted  in  the 
Irishman  being  badly  beaten  and  the  Indian  marching  home 
with  the  fish. 

It  is  said  that  he  concluded  to  look  elsewhere  for  employ- 
ment. 

It  would  seem  that  Adam  Vrooman,  who  made  such  a 
strong  defence  of  his  house  at  the  burning  of  Schenectady,  and 


1 64  The  Mohawk  Valley 

is  said  to  be  an  ancestor  of  the  late  Mrs.  Isaac  Morris,  the 
mother  of  Abram  Vrooman,  John  F.  and  Charles  H.  C.  Mor- 
ris, of  this  city,  and  Isaac  Morris,  of  Johnstown,  was  granted 
land  on  both  sides  of  the  Mohawk  River  at  this  place,  as 
follows : 

Whereas,  Rode  ye  Maquaase  (Mohawk),  sachem  for  divers  con- 
siderations, hath  about  three  years  agoe  (1685)  granted  him  (Adam 
Vrooman)  two  flats  or  plains  upon  both  sides  of  ye  Maquaase  river 
above  Hendrick  Cuylers'  land  (Claas  Graven  hoek — Cranesville) 
containing  eleven  morgens  wh:  said  land  doth  lie  near  ye  stone 
house  [Juchtanunda]  so  called  by  ye  Indians,  as  ye  go  to  the 
Maquaase  country  and  forty  acres  of  woodland  adjoining  them. 

The  grant  is  further  described  as 

being  on  both  sides  of  the  Mohawk  river  west  of  Claas  Graven  hoek 
(as  Cranesville  was  then  called)  on  the  south  side  ten  morgens  (20 
acres)  opposite  a  place  called  by  Indians  Juchtanunda  (?)  that  is  ye 
stone  house  being  a  hollow  rock  on  ye  river  bank  where  ye  Indians 
generally  lie  under  when  they  travill  to  and  from  their  country.  The 
other  pieces  on  the  north  side  of  the  river,  one  a  little  higher  than 
ye  said  hollow  rock  or  stone  house  att  a  place  called  by  ye  natives 
Syejodenawadde  (?)  and  so  eastward  down  the  river  so  as  to  compre- 
hend twelve  morgens  (24  acres).  The  other  just  above  the  marked 
tree  of  Hendrick  Cuyler  (the  owner  of  Claas  Graven  hoek)  one 
morgen  and  three  or  four  little  islands. 

In  trying  to  locate  the  grant  of  the  Mohawk  Indian  Rode, 
to  Adam  Vrooman,  I  have  taken  the  trouble  to  examine  the 
banks  of  the  Mohawk  from  Claas  Graven  hoek  up  to  Fort 
Johnson,  and  the  only  place  where  clifTs  or  overhanging  rocks 
are  to  be  found  is  at  a  point  by  the  N.  Y.  C,  R.  R.  freight 
house,  and  from  the  Chuctanunda  Creek  up  to  the  Atlas  mill. 
Back  of  the  old  Bronson  mansion  and  the  site  of  W.  U.  Chase's 
blacksmith  shop  are  to  be  found  the  only  shelving  rocks,  and 
also  large  masses  of  rock  that  have  fallen  from  the  cliff  above, 
indicating  that  at  some  previous  period  this  point  has  been  a 


THE    UOOKWAV    OF    ULU    ST.    MARY  S 


165 


In  the  Old  Town  of  Amsterdam  167 

"  juchtanunda, "  a  stone  house  or  hollow  or  overhanging 
rock  "  where  ye  Indians  generally  lie  under  when  they  travill 
to  and  from  their  country." 

Now,  in  regard  to  the  flats  spoken  of  in  this  grant,  an  ex- 
amination of  the  south  side  of  the  river  discloses  the  fact  that 
the  first  flat  west  of  Willow  Flats  is  the  ground  now  occupied 
by  the  fifth  ward ;  the  only  islands  not  otherwise  accounted  for 
are  the  four  or  five  small  "  Bronson  Islands  "  and  the  twelve 
morgens  (twenty-four  acres)  must  have  been  the  Bronson 
Flats  in  the  western  part  of  the  city  of  Amsterdam,  together 
with  forty  acres  of  woodland,  and  undoubtedly  covered  the 
site  of  the  village  of  Amsterdam. 

This  leads  to  another  thought. 

We  have  been  taught  that  the  meaning  of  Chuctanunda  was 
"  twin  sisters  "  and  that  it  was  applied  to  the  north  and  south 
Chuctanunda  because  they  entered  the  Mohawk  nearly  oppo- 
site each  other.     It  is  also  said  to  mean  stone-in-the-water. 

Assuming  that  the  definition  of  Juchtanunda  (stone 
houses,  hollow  rocks,  or  overhanging  cliffs)  is  correct  (and 
from  my  authority  I  do  not  question  it),  it  gives  a  different 
significance  to  the  name  Chuctanunda  as  applied  to  our 
creeks.  That  word  is  the  name  of  the  creek  only  secondarily, 
as,  the  creeks  near  the  Juchtanunda,  the  Juchtanunda  creeks; 
the  resting-place  or  stone  houses  being  paramount  in  the 
minds  of  the  Indians  and  the  creeks  of  secondary  importance 
except  as  connected  with  their  Juchtanunda,  the  only  over- 
hanging rocks  on  the  Mohawk  this  side  of  Fort  Hunter,  until 
you  reach  the  conglomerate  cliffs  near  Hoffman's  Ferry. 

The  discovery  of  the  old  Vrooman  grant  is  valuable  in  two 
ways.  It  establishes  a  fact  that  has  not  been  recorded  in  local 
history,  Avhich  is,  that  land  was  taken  up  in  what  is  now  the 
city  of  Amsterdam  in  the  seventeenth  century,  and  brings  to 
light    an  important  rendezvous  of  the  Indians  that  had  not 


i68  The  Mohawk  Valley 

been  suspected;  that  is,  the  Juchtanunda  (Chuctanunda).  It 
estabh'shes  the  fact  that  our  two  creeks  have  never  been 
named  by  the  Indians  other  than  to  call  the  creeks  near  the 
Juchtanunda  the  creeks  of  the  Juchtanunda,  although  the 
name  applied  by  the  white  man,  the  Twin  Sisters,  is  truly 
beautiful  and  appropriate. 

If  you  will  take  the  trouble  to  go  down  to  the  bank  of  the 
Mohawk  under  the  culvert  west  of  Bridge  Street  and  walk 
along  under  the  overhanging  rocks  to  the  west,  you  will  be 
convinced  of  the  appropriateness  of  the  term  "Juchtanunda," 
or  stone  house. 

About  one  hundred  feet  from  the  culvert  you  will  come  to 
a  mass  of  rock  that  is  familiar  to  every  boy  who  has  played  on 
the  river  bank  for  the  last  half-century.  It  seems  to  have  been 
originally  a  piece  of  rock  perhaps  twenty  feet  square,  which, 
from  its  texture,  must  have  been  the  upper  course  or  ledge  of 
the  cliff  on  which  formerly  stood  the  Welcome  U.  Chase  black- 
smith shop  and  the  first  Masonic  lodge  in  Amsterdam.  This 
immense  rock  is  broken  in  five  pieces  and  remains  where 
it  fell  years  ago.  About  two  hundred  feet  farther  up  the 
stream  is  the  cliff  on  which  stands  the  old  Bronson  mansion, 
the  upper  ledge  of  which  projects  so  far  that  twenty  men 
could  lie  under  its  shadow  and  be  protected  from  the  weather. 
This  stone  house  is  divided  into  two  parts,  the  farthermost 
part  being  hid  from  sight  by  a  projecting  rock.  Passing  this 
rock  you  find  a  spacious  open  room,  in  the  centre  of  which, 
from  under  twenty  feet  of  solid  rock,  runs  a  bubbling  spring 
of  water.  Under  these  rocks,  for  ages,  the  storm-tossed  sav- 
age found  shelter  from  the  tempest,  or  a  temporary  home  on 
his  fishing  or  warlike  expeditions.  Later  it  undoubtedly 
sheltered  the  white  and  red  boatmen  overtaken  by  night  with 
their  cargoes  of  merchandise  or  produce  from  the  farms. 

Abram  Vrooman  Morris,  spoken  of  above,   may  well  be 


CURIOUS   WINDOW,    OLD   EHLE   HOUSE,    NELLISTON,    I752 


169 


In  the  Old  Town  of  Amsterdam  171 

called  a  self-made  man,  and  his  life  is  closely  woven  with  the 
rise  and  progress  of  the  city  of  Amsterdam.  He  never  was  a 
poor  boy,  in  comparison  to  the  waif  described  in  one  of  John 
B.  Gough's  stories,  who,  when  asked  what  kind  of  food  he 
liked  best,  replied,  "  A  raw  turnip,  or  a  potato  with  a  heart  in 
it,  because  it  is  more  fillin'  and  stays  in  the  stomach  longer  "; 
still,  he  had  his  own  struggles,  and  learned  early  to  take  care 
of  himself,  and  by  his  pluck  and  energy  secured  a  competence 
in  early  manhood.  He  likes  to  tell  of  his  life  as  a  clerk  for 
William  Reid,  who  kept  a  general  store  formerly  situated  on  the 
land  at  the  southeast  corner  of  Main  and  Bridge  Streets.  In 
those  early  days  a  country  store  was  expected  to  keep  every- 
thing, from  a  paper  of  pins  to  a  barrel  of  flour,  and  from  a  box 
of  pills  to  a  barrel  of  whiskey.  As  Mr,  Reid's  store  was  no 
different  from  every  country  store,  a  barrel  of  whiskey, 
a  cask  of  wine,  and  a  keg  of  brandy  were  always  in  evidence 
in  the  rear  of  the  store.  Storekeepers  were  allowed  to  sell 
spirits  by  measure,  but  not  by  the  glass. 

One  day  a  worthless  bummer  sport  came  in  and  asked  for 
a  quart  of  whiskey,  at  the  same  time  producing  a  bottle  to  put 
it  in.  The  proprietor  filled  the  same  with  whiskey,  and 
handed  it  to  the  w.  b.  s,,  who  placed  it  in  his  pocket,  saying 
he  would  "  pay  for  it  to-morrow  "  ;  but  on  Mr.  Reid's  refus- 
ing to  trust  him,  he  took  another  bottle,  like  the  first,  out  of 
his  pocket,  filled  with  water,  which  the  proprietor,  supposing 
it  to  be  the  bottle  he  had  just  filled,  took  and  emptied  into 
the  barrel  of  whiskey,  while  the  w.  b.  s.  went  off  with  his 
bottle  of  whiskey  without  paying  for  it.  Query:  Was  anyone 
a  loser  in  the  transaction  ?  An  attempt  to  work  the  same 
scheme  a  few  days  later,  resulted  in  the  discovery  of  the  game, 
and  a  rapid  exit  of  the  schemer. 

Isaac  Morris,  the  father  of  Abram  Vrooman  Morris,  for- 
merly kept  quite  an  extensive  shoe  factory,  for  that  period, 


172  The  Mohawk  Valley 

situated  on  the  old  Baptist  Church  lot,  on  Market  Street,  em- 
ploying  as  many  as  twelve  workmen.  This  building  was  sub- 
sequently removed  to  a  vacant  lot  on  Spring  Street,  and  was 
known  as  the  "  Sandy  Maginess  house,"  which  was  afterward 
torn  down  to  make  room  for  the  Dersch  Block,  next  to  the 
Pythian  Temple.  Mrs.  Isaac  Morris's  maiden  name  was  Jane 
Vrooman.  Like  Van  Corlear  and  Wemple,  the  name  of  Vroo- 
man  is  prominent  in  the  history  of  the  Mohawk  Valley;  but  it 
is  only  to-day,  with  the  aid  of  Yi^^-d^xsons  Schenectady  Patent 
and  Simms's  Frontiersmen  of  Nezv  York,  together  with  valu- 
able information  from  Abram  Vrooman  Morris,  that  I  feel 
able  to  trace  the  lineage  of  the  Vrooman  family  back  to  Hol- 
land. 

It  is  recorded  that  in  the  early  part  of  the  seventeenth  cen- 
tury three  brothers  named  Pieter,  Jacob,  and  Hendrick  Meese 
Vrooman  came  to  New  Netherland  from  Holland.  Pieter 
and  Jacob  settled  in  Albany  and  left  no  male  descendants. 
Hendrick,  after  living  at  Kinderhook  and  Steene  Raby  (Lan- 
singburg),  removed  to  Schenectady  in  1677.  At  the  Massacre 
of  Schenectady,  February  9,  1690,  Hendrick  and  his  son 
Bartholomew  and  his  two  negro  slaves  were  killed  and 
burned,  leaving  two  sons,  Adam  and  Jan,  to  inherit  his  estate. 
Adam  was  born  in  Holland  in  1649,  and  in  1670  bound  him- 
self for  two  years  to  Cornelius  Van  den  Bergh,  of  Albany 
County,  to  learn  the  millwright's  trade.  In  1683  he  built  a 
mill  on  the  Sand-kil,  east  of  Schenectady,  where  the 
Brandywine  mill  now  stands.  In  1690,  when  Schenectady  was 
destroyed,  he  saved  his  life  by  his  bravery  in  defending  his 
house,  although  his  first  wife,  Engeltje,  with  her  infant  child, 
was  killed,  and  his  two  sons,  Wouter  and  Barent,  were  carried 
away  to  Canada.  He  married  three  times,  his  second  wife  be- 
ing the  widow  of  Jacques  Cornelius  Van  Slyke,  and  the  third, 
Greitje   Takelse    Hemstraat.      He    had    nine    sons    and    four 


In  the  Old  Town  of  Amsterdam  i75 

daughters.  He  seems  to  have  been  a  large  land  owner,  for 
besides  numerous  lots  in  Schenectady  he  was  granted  a  patent 
for  six  hundred  acres  of  land  in  Schoharie,  in  1714,  which  was 
occupied  by  his  son  Pieter  and  his  descendants.  On  March 
30,  1726,  he  obtained  a  new  Indian  title  for  fourteen  hundred 
acres  of  flats  knows  as  Vrooman's  Land,  in  the  Schoharie 
Valley. 

On  a  previous  page  I  stated  that  in  1688  he  was  granted  an 
Indian  title  for  land  comprising  the  present  fifth  ward  of  Am- 
sterdam, and  the  Bronson  Flats  and  woodlands  in  this  vicinity. 
It  would  seem  as  though  Pieter  was  the  only  one  of  his  sons 
who  followed  his  father  to  the  Schoharie,  some  of  them  living 
in  Albany,  others  in  Schenectady.  Pieter  died  in  1771,  leav- 
ing twelve  children,  one  of  whom  was  Abraham  Vrooman, 
who  persisted  in  writing  his  name  Abram,  He  was  the  father 
of  Mrs.  Isaac  Morris,  Sr.,  and  the  grandfather  of  Abram 
Vrooman  Morris,  who  is  his  namesake. 

J.  R.  Simms  writes  at  considerable  length  of  the  ravages 
of  the  Indians  in  what  is  known  in  history  as  the  Massacre  of 
Schoharie,  in  August,  1780.      He  says  in  one  place: 

The  invaders,  consisting  of  73  Indians,  almost  naked,  and  five 
tories — Benj.  Beacraft,  Frederick  Sager,  Walter  Allet,  one  Thomp- 
son, and  a  mulatto,  commanded  by  Capt.  Brant,  approached  Vroo- 
man's land,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  upper  fort,  about  10  o'clock  in  the 
morning.  They  entered  the  valley  on  the  west  side  of  the  river, 
above  Onistagrawa,  in  three  places;  one  party  coming  down  from 
the  mountain  near  the  late  residence  of  Charles  Watson;  another 
near  the  Jacob  Haines  place,  then  the  residence  of  Capt.  Tunis 
Vrooman;  and  the  third  near  the  dwelling  of  the  late  Harmanus 
Vrooman,  at  that  time  the  residence  of  Col.  Peter  Vrooman,  who 
chanced  to  be  with  his  family  in  the  middle  fort.  Capt.  Hager 
being  absent,  the  command  of  the  upper  fort  devolved  on  Capt. 
Tunis  Vrooman.  Capt.  Vrooman,  on  the  morning  in  question, 
having  returned  home  to  secure  some  wheat,  and  Lieut.  Ephraim 
Vrooman,  to  whom  the  command  next  belonged  having  gone  to  his 


176  The  Mohawk  Valley 

farm  soon  after  Capt.  Vrooman  left,  he  left  Lieut.  Harper  with  less 
than  a  dozen  men,  to  defend  the  post.  Mrs.  Ephraim  Vrooman 
also  returned  to  her  home  to  do  her  washing. 

It  is  said  that  on  that  morning  Capt.  Tunis  Vrooman  and 
his  sons  drew  two  loads  of  wheat  to  the  barracks.  The  grain 
had  not  all  been  pitched  from  the  wagon  when  he  beheld  ap- 
proaching a  party  of  hostile  savages.  He  descended  from  the 
barrack,  not  far  from  which  he  was  tomahawked  and  scalped, 
and  had  his  throat  cut  by  a  Schoharie  Indian  named  John, 
who  stood  upon  his  shoulders  while  tearing  oiT  his  scalp.  His 
wife,  while  washing  in  the  farmhouse,  was  surprised  and 
stricken  down.  After  the  first  blow  from  the  tomahawk  she 
remained  erect,  but  a  second  blow  laid  her  dead  at  the  feet  of 
the  Indian,  who  scalped  her,  and  three  of  the  oldest  boys, 
with  the  blacks,  were  made  captives.  His  son,  Peter,  would 
probably  have  escaped  had  not  one  of  the  blacks  made  known 
his  place  of  concealment.  Trying  to  escape,  he  was  pursued 
by  the  tory  Beacraft,  who  caught  him,  and,  placing  his  legs  be- 
tween his  own,  bent  his  head  back  and  cut  his  throat,  after 
which  he  scalped  him  and  hung  his  body  across  a  fence. 

Above  I  have  told  of  Lieutenant  Ephraim  Vrooman 
and  his  wife  leaving  the  fort  early  in  the  morning  for 
their  farmhouse.  An  Indian  called  Seth's  Henry  led  a 
party  of  the  enemy  to  this  dwelling.  On  hearing  the  alarm 
Vrooman  ran  to  the  house,  caught  up  his  infant  child,  and 
fled  into  a  cornfield,  followed  by  his  wife  leading  her  little 
daughter.  He  seated  himself  against  the  trunk  of  a  large 
apple-tree,  with  his  wife  concealed  a  few  rods  from  him  in  the 
thrifty  corn.  His  family  would  no  doubt  have  remained  un- 
discovered, had  not  Mrs.  Vrooman  become  alarmed,  and 
risen  up  with  a  cry,  in  low  Dutch,  "  Ephraim,  Ephraim, 
where  are  you  ?  Have  you  got  the  child  ?  "  Instantly,  almost, 
a  bullet  from  Seth's  Henry's  rifle  pierced  her  body,  and  as  she 


In  the  Old  Town  of  Amsterdam  1 79 

lay  on  the  ground  he  tomahawked  and  scalped  her,  and  the 
tory  Beacraft  killed  her  little  daughter  with  a  stone  and  drew 
off  her  scalp.  It  is  said  that  when  the  body  of  Mrs.  Vrooman 
was  found,  it  was  evident  that  she  had  partially  revived  and 
tried  to  staunch  the  flow  of  blood  from  her  breast,  first  with 
her  cap,  afterwards  with  earth,  having  dug  quite  a  hole  in  the 
ground.  Adam  A.  Vrooman  fled  from  the  Indians  to  the 
upper  fort,  keeping  the  enemy  at  bay  with  his  pistol,  when 
they  came  too  near  him.  On  his  arrival  at  the  fort  he  was 
asked  how  he  escaped,  when  he  answered,  "  I  pulled  foot." 
After  that,  to  the  day  of  his  death,  he  was  called  "  Pull  Foot 
Vrooman."  His  wife  was  made  a  prisoner.  Simon  Vrooman, 
his  wife  and  three-year-old  son,  were  taken  prisoners  also. 

Abraham  or  Abram  Vrooman,  the  grandfather  of  Abram 
V.  Morris,  had  a  narrow  escape  from  death  or  capture.  Be- 
ing in  Vrooman's  land  with  a  wagon,  on  which  was  a  hay  rack, 
he  drove  down  through  the  valley  and  picked  up  several  citi- 
zens. At  Judge  Swart's  he  shouted  to  Mrs.  Swart,  "  Cornelia, 
jump  into  my  wagon,  the  Indians  are  upon  us."  She  ran  to 
the  house,  snatched  her  infant  child  from  its  cradle,  and 
reached  the  wagon  with  her  husband  just  as  the  Indians  ap- 
peared at  the  dwelling.  Vrooman,  who  had  a  powerful  team, 
did  not  stop  to  open  the  gates,  but  drove  the  horses  directly 
against  and  over  them,  and  was  fortunate  enough  to  outstrip 
the  red  savages,  and  escape  to  the  middle  fort. 

At  the  time  Seth's  Henry  killed  Mrs.  Ephraim  Vrooman, 
another  powerful  Indian,  who  was  directed  by  her  call  to  her 
husband's  place  of  concealment,  approached  him  and  thrust  a 
spear  at  his  body,  which  he  parried,  and  the  infant  in  his  arms 
smiled.  Another  pass  was  made  and  parried,  and  the  child 
again  smiled.  At  the  third  blow  of  the  spear,  which  was  also 
warded  off,  the  little  innocent  laughed  aloud  at  the  supposed 
sport,  which  awakened  the  sympathy  of  the  savage,  and  he 


i8o  The  Mohawk  Valley 

made  Vrooman  a  prisoner,  also  his  sons  and  German  workmen. 
John  Vrooman,  his  wife,  and  five  children  were  also  captured. 

The  destroyers  of  Vrooman's  land  proceeded  in  the  after- 
noon about  fifteen  miles  and  encamped  for  the  night.  The 
scalps  of  the  slain  were  stretched  upon  hoops  and  dried  in  the 
presence  of  the  relative  prisoners.  After  travelling  about  six 
miles  Brant,  who  was  in  charge,  permitted  the  wife  of  John 
Vrooman,  with  her  infant  and  one  taken  from  Ephraim,  to 
return  to  the  settlement.  Col.  Peter  Vrooman,  by  his  en- 
ergetic defense  of  the  middle  fort,  saved  it  from  capture  by 
Sir  John  Johnson  and  his  savages. 

Of  course,  Simms  has  many  tales  to  tell  of  other  families  of 
Schoharie,  who  suffered  death  or  capture  by  the  savages;  but 
my  purpose  at  this  time  is  to  follow  the  fortunes  of  the  de- 
scendants of  Adam  and  Peter  Vrooman,  and  to  trace  the  line- 
age of  the  mother  of  Abram  V.  Morris;  as  follows: 

Hendrick  Meese  Vrooman. 

Adam  Vrooman. 

Peter  Vrooman. 

Abram  or  Abraham  Vrooman. 

Jane  Vrooman,  the  wife  of  Isaac  Morris,  Sr. 

Isaac  Morris's  children  were  as  follows: 

Lewis,  Abram  V.,  Margaret,  Tunis,  Charles  H.  C. ,  John 
F.,  James  Stewart,  and  Isaac  Morris,  Jr. 


Chapter  XI 

The  Last  Battle  between  the  Mohawks  and  Mohicans. 
The  Famous  Butler  Mansion 

IN  1669,  when  no  white  man  was  seen  along  the  shores  of 
the  Mohawk,  except  a  few  adventurous  Dutch  and  Eng- 
hsh  traders,  French  coureurs-de-bois,  and  an  occasional 
Jesuit  priest,  a  large  body  of  Mohican  warriors  passed 
through  this  valley  en  route  to  surprise  and  destroy  their  nat- 
ural foes,  the  Mohawks,  and  their  palisaded  village  Kanyea- 
geh,  which  was  situated  on  the  Sand  Flat  Hill  west  of  Fonda. 
Three  days  after,  this  body  of  warriors  returned,  repulsed,  and 
practically  defeated,  as  they  had  expended  their  ammunition, 
consumed  their  food,  and  failed  to  destroy  the  Indian  strong- 
hold, although  defended  by  a  very  small  body  of  Mohawks. 
Within  twenty-four  hours  this  small  body  of  defenders,  rein- 
forced by  friends  from  the  upper  Mohawk  castles,  passed  down 
the  river  in  hot  pursuit  of  their  enemies,  the  Mohicans. 

At  Hoffman's  Ferry  they  found  them  entrenched  on  the 
hill  west  of  the  present  ferry,  now  called  Towereune  or 
Kinaquarione.  This  hill  formerly  extended  to  the  river,  end- 
ing in  a  "juchtanunda"  at  the  water's  edge  and  formed  a  strong 
natural  barrier,  which  could  not  well  be  scaled.  Quietly  the 
pursuing  warriors  ascended  this  range,  in  the  vicinity  of  what 
is  known  as  Swart's  Hill,  fiercely  and  unexpectedly  assailed 
the  Mohicans  in  the  rear  and  drove  them  into  their  entrench- 
ments, which  they  stubbornly  held  until  darkness  put  an  end 
to  the  ficfht. 


1 82  The  Mohawk  Valley 

At  the  first  streak  of  dawn  on  the  following  day  the  Mo- 
hawks again  attacked  their  foes  so  fiercely  that  they  drove 
them  from  their  entrenchments  and  into  the  river,  where  the 
remnant  of  the  tribe  escaped  in  boats  and  by  swimming.  This 
engagement  is  spoken  of  as  the  last  great  battle  between  the 
Mohawks  and  the  Mohicans.  It  is  said  that  the  latter  tribe 
left  their  hunting-grounds  on  the  Hudson  River  and  migrated 
to  Connecticut,  from  which  place  they  did  not  return  for  more 
than  half  a  century. 

The  hill  was  called  Towereune  or  Ki-na-qua-ri-o-ne, 
which  is  generally  understood  to  mean  "  The  place  of  the  last 
great  battle."  I  am  indebted  to  Mrs.  Harriet  Maxwell  Con- 
verse for  the  following  definition  of  words  similar  to  the  words 
written  above,  received  from  an  intelligent  aged  Mohawk 
woman  and  an  Abeniki  woman,  who  speaks  the  Mohican. 

The  definitions  are  very  interesting,  as  they  all  bear  on  the 
same  subject : 

Ke-na-kwa-di-one — We  are  going  to  kill  them. 

Ke-na-kwa-di-io-he-ne — I  was  going  to  kill  them. 

Ka-qua-ri-on-ne — Why  did  you  not  kill  me,  too,  with  my 
people  ? 

Ki-na-qua-ri-o-ne — We  killed  the  bear,  or  a  place  of  death. 

The  old  Mohawk  woman  says  that  the  word,  correctly 
spelled,  may  mean  a  place  of  capture,  or  a  hill  where  they 
killed  their  enemy.  The  other  spellings  of  the  above  are 
thought  by  the  Abeniki  woman  to  be  of  Mohican  origin. 

The  definition  of  Towereune  is  given  as  follows,  and,  you 
will  notice,  refers  to  the  same  subject: 

Ta-no-we-do-ne — We  wanted  to  kill  them. 

Ka-na-ron-que — Those  I  loved  best  have  gone  (been 
killed). 

Tow-ire-en-ne — Place  where  Indians  (or  the  enemy)  were 
killed. 


The  Famous  Butler  Mansion  185 

In  1689  and  1693  the  French  and  Canadian  Indians  passed 
up  the  valley  and  raided  and  destroyed  the  Mohawk  castle  at 
Tiononderoga  (Fort  Hunter)  and  the  castles  above,  returning 
to  Canada  by  the  trail  along  the  Juchtanunda  Creek.  In  1738 
Sir  William  Johnson  settled  in  Warrensbush  on  the  south 
side  of  the  Mohawk,  about  half  a  mile  below  the  mouth  of  the 
Juchtanunda  Creek,  or,  as  Philip  Schuyler  reported  in  his 
survey  of  the  Mohawk  in  1792,  "  one-half  mile  below  the 
creek  on  which  Vedder's  grist  mill  stands." 

As  early  as  1742  Johnson  had  succeeded  in  winning  the 
confidence  and  affection  of  the  Indians  of  the  Six  Nations, 
which  finally  led  to  his  appointment  as  Indian  Commissioner, 
and  repeated  conferences  with  the  Indian  tribes  were  held  at 
Mount  Johnson.  During  the  old  French  War  troops  were  re- 
peatedly seen  passing  to  and  fro  between  Albany  and  Mount 
Johnson,  sometimes  on  the  south  side,  but  generally  on  the 
north  side,  of  the  Mohawk.  War  parties  of  Indians  were 
frequently  organized  by  Mr.  Johnson  to  harass  the  French  set- 
tlements  in  Canada.  In  June,  1779,  fifteen  hundred  soldiers 
under  General  James  Clinton  passed  up  the  Mohawk,  in  two 
hundred  and  ten  bateaux,  being  part  of  General  Sullivan's  ex- 
pedition  against  the  Senecas. 

From  1755  to  1765  repeated  conferences  were  held  with 
the  Indians  at  Fort  Johnson,  as  it  was  then  called.  As  early 
as  1746  we  find  the  name  of  John  Butler  connected  with  Sir 
W.  Johnson  and  frequently  a  member  of  the  board  of  com- 
missioners, sometimes  as  an  interpreter. 

Necessarily  we  find  many  objects  of  interest  scattered 
through  this  section  of  the  Mohawk  Valley,  notably  Queen 
Anne's  Chapel,  Fort  Johnson,  Guy  Park,  and  othei*  old  build- 
ings. 

Recently  an  old  building  has  been  brought  to  my  notice  that 
has  never  received  the  attention  that  it  deserves. 


1 86  The  Mohawk  Valley 

I  refer  to  the  old  Butler  house  on  Switzer  Hill.  The  17th 
of  June  was  an  ideal  day  for  a  drive  in  the  country,  being 
bright  with  sunlight  and  the  air  balmy  with  a  western  breeze, 
so  gentle  that  it  might  well  be  termed  a  zephyr.  Our  road  led 
us  through  Tribes  Hill,  whose  original  appellation  was  Trips 
Hill  and  not  Tripes  Hill,  as  erroneously  stated.  The  name 
may  be  found  on  the  Tryon  map  of  1779,  and  refers  to  the 
original  grant  of  that  section,  the  northwest  corner  of  which 
joins  the  northeast  corner  of  the  Butler  grant.  The  Butler 
grant  was  conveyed  December  i,  1735,  to  Walter  Butler  and 
three  others.  Passing  by  the  many  pleasant  places  in  Tribes 
Hill,  among  which  are  the  Striker  and  Shanahan  places  and 
the  pleasant  home  of  Dr.  Suits,  we  reach  the  Young  home- 
stead. Turning  north  at  the  latter  place  our  road  winds  over 
hill  and  dale  and  along  the  banks  of  the  Danascara  Creek  until 
we  come  to  the  elegant  home,  and  farm  buildings  of  Mr.  H. 
T.  E.  Brower.  From  this  point  the  road  takes  a  westerly 
direction  with  the  Danascara  ever  in  sight,  past  pleasant  farm 
houses  and  farms  that  present  a  thrifty  appearance.  About 
thirty  rods  south  of  the  junction  of  the  Tribes  Hill  road  with 
a  road  leading  from  Fonda  to  Johnstown  stands  the  old  Butler 
house,  the  former  home  of  Capt.  Walter  Butler,  Senior,  and 
later  of  his  son,  Col.  John,  of  Wyoming  notoriety,  and  grand- 
son, Lieut.  Walter  Butler,  Junior,  who  is  remembered  in  con- 
nection with  the  Cherry  Valley  massacre.  Located  a  short 
distance  from  the  main  road,  it  is  approached  by  a  driveway, 
between  rows  of  locust  hedges,  to  a  wide,  well-kept  lawn  on 
the  west  side  of  the  house.  At  first  sight  the  house  presents 
rather  an  incongruous  appearance  by  its  mingling  of  the  new 
with  the  old,  but  as  we  look  closer  we  see  that,  while  the  old 
does  not  add  to  the  attractiveness  of  the  new  building,  the 
new  emphasizes  the  antiquity  of  tlie  old  by  contrast.  In  the 
centre  of  the  lawn  is  an  old  well  with  a  modern  pump,  which 


The  Famous  Butler  Mansion  189 

has  been  substituted  for  the  old  weather-beaten  well-box  and 
sweep  from  which  formerly  depended  a  traditional  old  moss- 
covered  oaken  bucket.  On  the  south  edge  of  the  lawn  stands 
a  large  locust  tree  whose  abbreviated  dead  branches  extend  in 
every  direction.  Near  this  tree  a  grape-vine  grows,  whose  an- 
aconda-like trunk  has  reached  and  enfolded  this  tree  with  its 
snaky  coils.  But  it  does  not,  like  its  reptilian  counterpart, 
convey  poisonous  death  in  its  embrace,  but  beautiful  life,  in  its 
bright  green  leaves  and  tendrils  and  promises  of  luscious  fruit. 

To  the  south  of  the  locust  is  the  fruit  garden,  filled  with 
the  thrifty  fruit  trees  indigenous  to  our  cold  climate,  and  a 
suggestion  of  the  south  in  the  numerous  fruitful  peach-trees, 
clustered  in  the  bright  sunlight.  Here  and  there  we  see  the 
syringa,  the  rose,  and  the  Joseph  coat,  with  their  green  foliage 
almost  hidden  by  the  luxuriance  of  the  brilliant  flowers  that 
cover  their  branches.  And  back  of  all  this  wealth  of  color 
stands  the  gray,  wooden  walls  of  the  old  house,  fairly  gro- 
tesque in  its  want  of  beauty  of  outline,  and  the  poverty  of  its 
ornamentation. 

But  these  thoughts  all  vanished  as  we  entered  the  house 
and  were  greeted  by  the  mistress.  Miss  Margaret  Wilson,  and 
were  at  ease  at  once,  from  the  cordiality  of  her  reception. 

The  house  was  built  in  1743  by  Walter  Butler,  senior,  the 
father  of  Col.  John  Butler,  about  the  same  time  that  Sir  Wm. 
Johnson  erected  Fort  Johnson,  and  from  the  known  intimacy 
between  the  two  families  must  have  been  the  scene  of  many  a 
revelry  among  those  high  livers. 

A  "lean-to"  has  been  built  on  the  west  side  of  the  house, 
extending  the  already  long  angle  of  the  old  roof  and  at  the  same 
time  preserving  the  west  side  of  the  original  building  from  the 
ravages  of  time  and  the  elements.  This  shows  that  the  or- 
iginal clapboards  were  each  about  twelve  inches  wide,  planed 
by  hand  and  with  beaded  edges.     Between  the  upright  timbers, 


iQo  The  Mohawk  Valley- 

inside  of  the  clapboards,  were  placed  adobe  or  sun-baked 
brick  of  the  usual  length  and  about  one  and  one-half  inches 
thick.  These  brick  were  evidently  laid  in  clay,  instead  of 
mortar,  and  finished  on  the  inside  with  whitewash.  In  later 
years  this  rude  finish  was  covered  with  lath  and  plaster. 

The  ceiling  of  the  first  story  shows  the  heavy  oak  timbers 
exposed,  and  between  them  is  seen  the  wooden  ceiling,  which 
also  constitutes  the  floor  of  the  second  story.  The  house  it- 
self is  about  thirty  by  forty  feet  with  the  front  to  the  east. 
The  main  floor  was  formerly  divided  by  a  wide  hall  in  the 
centre  with  two  rooms  on  each  side  and  a  stairway  at  the  end 
of  the  hall.  We  were  shown  a  trap  door  in  the  lower  floor  and 
another,  directly  over  it,  in  the  second  floor,  and  evidences  of 
an  enclosure  that  connected  the  two,  making  a  secret  passage- 
way from  the  second  story  to  the  cellar.  The  main  timbers 
of  the  lower  floor  are  very  strong,  being  made  of  white  oak 
trees  about  fifteen  inches  in  diameter  and  thirty  feet  long, 
roughly  hewn.  The  stone  foundation  is  of  the  most  primitive 
character,  and  looks  as  if  the  stones  had  been  gathered  from 
the  fields  or  wherever  they  could  be  easily  loosened  with  a 
bar.  In  fact,  the  old  house  made  me  think  that  it  was  erected  in 
the  same  manner  that  King  Solomon's  temple  was  built, — 
that  is,  without  the  sound  of  axe,  hammer,  or  other  metal 
tools — except  perhaps  an  axe.  My  attention  was  called  to 
the  outside  doors,  which  all  opened  outward.  In  the  bottom 
of  each  door  was  evidence  of  an  opening,  the  shape  of  a  half- 
moon,  which  was  formerly  closed  with  tarred  tow  or  felt.  It 
was  explained  that  where  a  house  was  haunted  this  opening 
was  made  for  the  ghost  to  retire  if  it  wanted  to.  But  if  it 
went  out,  for  a  few  minutes,  it  could  not  get  back  on  account 
of  the  tar. 

"  I  know  not  what  the  truth  may  be, 
I  say  the  tale  as  't  was  said  to  me.  " 


The  Famous  Butler  Mansion 


191 


This  property  has  been  in  the  hands  of  the  Wilson  family 
for  nearly  seventy  years,  having  been  bouf::^ht  in  1830  by 
Henry  Wilson,  the  father  of 
the  present  owners,  Mr. 
Henry  Wilson  and  Miss  Mar- 
garet  Wilson. 

They  deserve  great  credit 
for  having  preserved  this  old 
building  from  destruction  and 
decay. 

Leaving  the  old  Butler 
house,  we  were  told  that  there 
was  a  very  pretty  view  of  the 
valley  at  the  junction  of  roads 
above,  but  we  were  not  pre- 
pared for  the  exquisite  view 
that  burst  upon  the  sight  as  we 
turned  the  bend  of  the  road. 

Imagine  if  you  will,  standing  upon  a  hill  about  two  hundred 
feet  high,  "  green  and  of  mild  declivity,"  and  the  valley  below 
abbreviated  by  a  range  of  rugged  hills  that,  bending  to  the 
south,  end  a  few  miles  to  the  west  at  the  river  bank  in  the 
Nose."  A  heavy  rainfall  of  a  number  of  days  had  cleared 
the  air  and  foliage  of  all  impurities,  a  gentle  breeze  had  dissi- 
pated all  mist  and  fog  and  even  the  purple  haze  of  the  distant 
mountain,  leaving  all  nature  bright  and  fresh  and  green.  Be- 
fore and  below  us  were  the  manifold  shades  of  green,  of  which 
nature  is  so  lavish  in  those  "  rare  days  in  June."  In  the 
centre  of  this  emerald  field  lay  the  Mohawk,  that  by  a  bend 
in  the  river  above  and  the  dense  foliage  of  trees  before  us 
seemed  to  have  no  beginning  or  ending,  but  spread  out  before 
us  like  a  small  lake  whose  surface  was  free  from  ripple  or  riff 
and    shone   like   burnished  silver  in  the  bright    midday    sun. 


CAUGHNAWAGA    CHURCH,    FONDA, 
1 763-1868 


192    ■  The  Mohawk  Valley 

Around  this  liquid  mirror  extended  a  fringe  of  low  bushes, 
whose  darker  shade  of  green  made  beautiful  contrast  to  the 
bright  shades  of  the  fields  of  grain  beyond.  A  little  to  the 
north  of  this  lake  a  short  section  of  the  New  York  Central 
Railroad  stretches  out  in  geometrical  precision  looking  like  a 
gridiron  of  huge  dimensions.  Along  its  side  at  short  intervals 
rise  blue  spirals  of  smoke,  which  change  to  a  bluish-white 
cloud  as  they  mingle  and  float  away  against  the  dark  green  of 
the  trees  that  cover  the  hill  slopes,  while  on  the  sides  of  the 
southern  hills  dwellings  of  red  and  white,  each  with  its  little 
cluster  of  trees  or  shrubbery,  mark  the  abodes  of  men. 

Nearly  in  the  centre  of  this  picture  and  from  out  a  cluster 
of  oak  and  maple  and  elms  emerges  the  dome  of  the  old  court 
house,  and  from  its  summit  springs  a  tall  staff  with  Old  Glory 
floating  lazily  against  its  side,  giving  a  charming  bit  of  color 
to  this  picture  of  emerald  hues.  Suddenly,  and  seemingly 
from  out  a  cluster  of  trees  at  the  base  of  the  hill,  there  comes 
a  sound  like  the  rushing  of  a  mighty  wind,  supplemented  by 
shriek  and  roar  and  rumble,  and  a  form  completely  enveloped 
in  its  own  black  smoke,  appears  and  disappears  along  the  iron 
rails  below,  leaving  a  trail  of  smoke  to  mark  its  flight  like  the 
]5ath  of  a  shrieking  shell  from  a  monster  gun.  And  over  all 
this  beauty  the  golden  sunlight  and  the  celestial  blue  of  the 
heavens  flecked  here  and  there  with  clouds  of  fleecy  white  and 
sombre  gray. 


Chapter  XII 
Johnstown,  New  York 

TRAVELLERS   on   the   New   York   Central    Railroad 
probably    are    familiar    with    a    small    village    called 
Fonda,  situated  on  the  Mohawk  River   about    forty 
miles  from  Albany,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Cayadutta 
Creek.     If  their  destination  is    Johnstown,  they  will  change 
cars  at  this  place  and  take  passage  on  the  F.  J.  &  G.  R.  R., 
or  an  electric  car. 

If  you  stroll  up  the  main  street  of  Fonda  a  few  rods  west 
of  the  station  you  will  come  to  a  stream  flowing  from  the 
north  and  bearing  an  Indian  name — Cayadutta.  A  century 
and  a  half  ago  the  banks  of  this  stream  were  in  all  their  primi- 
tive beauty  and  wildness,  and  in  earlier  times  had  been  chosen 
by  the  Agniers  (Mohawks)  for  the  sites  of  two  of  their  vil- 
lages, one  on  the  high  ground  forming  its  western  bank  and 
bearing  the  name  of  Ca-hani-aga,  the  other  about  three  miles 
to  the  north,  lately  discovered  and  yet  unnamed.  If  you 
wander  still  farther  up  this  creek  you  will  find  a  succession  of 
rapids  now  marked  with  mill  sites,  and  in  a  bowl-shaped  val- 
ley, four  miles  from  the  Mohawk  River,  a  flourishing  village 
named,  in  1770,  Johnstown. 

This  section  was  originally  included  in  the  Kingsborough 
Patent,  as  it  was  called,  granted  to  Arent  Stevens  and  others, 
June  23,  1753,  and  comprised  twenty  thousand  acres  of  land. 
This  land  came  into  possession  of  Sir  William  Johnson,  but  at 
what  date  I  have  been  unable  to  find  any  record.      Probably 

193 


194  The  Mohawk  Valley 

he  was  one  of  the  "  others  "  mentioned  in  the  patent,  as  we 
known  that  he  had  leased  or  sold  land  to  over  a  hundred 
families  who  had  settled  in  that  locality  before  he  built  John- 
son Hall  in  1763, 

Previous  to  the  granting  of  the  Kingsborough  patent,  Wil- 
liam Johnson  was  in  possession  of  a  few  thousand  acres  along 
the  north  bank  of  the  Mohawk  west  of  Amsterdam,  but  the 
notorious  Kayaderosseras  patent  shut  him  off  on  the  east  and 
the  Butler  and  Caughnawaga  patents  on  the  west  and  north, 
obliging  him  to  take  up  lands  north  of  them  in  order  to  secure 
a  large  tract.  The  Kingsland  grant  of  land  was  given  to  Sir 
William  by  the  Crown  after  he  was  made  Baronet  and  subse- 
quent to  the  battle  of  Lake  George  in  1755.  Among  those  to 
whom  he  leased  land  with  the  supposed  purpose  of  establish- 
ing a  baronial  estate,  were  Dr.  William  Adams,  Gilbert  Tice, 
innkeeper;  Peter  Young,  miller;  William  Phillips,  wagon- 
maker;  James  Davis,  hatter ;  Peter  Yost,  tanner ;  Adrian  Van 
Sickler,  Major  John  Little,  and  Zephaniah  Bachelor.  He 
named  the  placed  Johnstown,  built  a  court-house,  jail,  church, 
taverns,  and  numerous  dwellings  for  his  tenants. 

It  would  seem  as  though  his  baronial  mansion,  as  Johnson 
Hall  is  sometimes  called,  must  have  been  considered  a  tem- 
porary structure,  being  constructed  of  wood  (although  after 
nearly  a  century  and  a  half  it  is  in  an  excellent  state  of  pre- 
servation), because  his  other  and  older  home,  Fort  Johnson, 
and  the  home  of  his  daughter,  Guy  Park,  both  on  the  Mo- 
hawk, are  well  built  of  stone,  with  interiors  much  better  fin- 
ished than  Johnson  Hall. 

The  25th  of  March,  1898,  was  a  typical  spring  day,  although 
the  weather  was  not  such  as  we  are  in  the  habit  of  having  in 
the  Mohawk  Valley  in  that  windy  month.  However,  it  was 
pleasant  enough  to  induce  me  to  take  a  trip  to  Johnson  Hall, 
Johnstown.     Perhaps  I  was  in  a  mood  to  dream  of  the  past 


Johnstown,  New  York  i97 

and  on  that  account  the  route  to  the  old  historic  village 
seemed  to  be  void  of  all  modern  improvements,  and  I  was  be- 
ing transported  through  forests  and  lonely  settlements. 

In  passing  Guy  Park  I  saw  the  rough  stone  walls  of  the 
original  building  surrounded  by  forests  and  rude  instruments 
of  husbandry.  Fort  Johnson  impressed  me  with  its  antiquity 
without  any  stretch  of  imagination.  A  short  distance  above, 
the  mind  recalled  the  palisaded  Fort  Hunter,  with  the  stone 
walls  of  Queen  Anne's  chapel  in  its  centre,  and  I  could  see 
the  group  of  dirty  Indians  crowding  its  wall  and  accepting  a 
religion  they  knew  nothing  and  cared  nothing  about.  Look- 
ing across  the  Schoharie  and  over  the  hills  to  the  west,  I  see 
the  form  of  Father  Jogues,  with  his  long,  black  robe,  tied 
around  the  waist  with  a  rope,  and  his  rosary  hanging  at  his 
side,  shrinking  from  warrior  and  squaw  as  though  expecting 
some  new  cruelty  or  indignity.  A  little  farther  to  the  west  on 
the  north  side  I  see  the  new  village  of  Ka-nyea-geh  (Caugh- 
nawaga),  with  its  defensive  palisades  swarming  with  warriors 
defending  their  homes  against  hundreds  of  savage  Mohicans, 
with  the  great  Massachusetts  Sachem,  Chickatabutt,  at  their 
head.  And  in  the  midst  of  the  Mohawks  I  see  the  form  of 
Tekakwitha  and  the  Jesuit  Father  De  Lamberville. 

Leaving  Fonda  I  am  recalled  to  the  nineteenth  century  by 
asking  a  trainman  if  our  train  passed  the  old  Indian  site  of 
Ka-nyea-geh  and  he  answered  that  he  had  never  heard  of  it.  I 
put  the  same  question  to  the  conductor  and  he  said  he  did 
not  know. 

Upon  arriving  at  Johnstown  I  stepped  up  to  a  man  with  a 
badge  on  his  cap  and  said:  "  Can  you  tell  me  what  road  to 
take  to  get  to  Johnson  Hall  ?"  "  Johnson  Hall  ?"  he  re- 
plied, "  I  never  heard  of  it."  "  I  mean,"  said  I,  "  the  old 
family  mansion  of  Sir  William  Johnson,  the  place  where  he 
formerly  lived."    "Oh,"  said  he,  "you  mean  Sir  William  John- 


198  The  Mohawk  Valley 

son's  Hotel  ?  It  is  right — "  but  I  was  around  the  corner  in- 
terviewing some  one  else  by  that  time,  and  did  not  hear  what 
direction  to  take  to  reach  the  Sir  William  Johnson  Hotel. 

After  receiving  some  intelligent  instruction  from  a  man  in 
a  blue  uniform  I  started  on  my  quest  for  Johnson  Hall,  which 
is  situated  about  one  mile  northwest  of  the  railroad  depot.  A 
bridge  spans  the  Cayadutta  Creek  a  sliort  distance  from  the 
railroad,  the  waters  of  which  were  running  red  as  if  in  com- 
memoration of  the  blood  of  patriots  shed  by  Sir  John  John- 
son, Brant,  and  Butler  in  their  frequent  raids  on  the  settle- 
ments in  the  valley  of  the  Mohawk. 

Passing  by  the  numerous  handsome  cottages  that  line  both 
sides  of  the  street,  I  approached  a  fork  in  the  road,  and  on  a 
tree  observed  a  board,  which,  at  a  distance,  I  supposed  to  con- 
tain the  necessary  direction  to  reach  Johnson  Hall.  Ap- 
proaching nearer,  the  information  I  received  was  this:  "  STove 
wooD  $1.75  Per  corD." 

Not  obtaining  the  information  desired,  I  took  the  road  to 
the  right,  and  soon  saw  the  building  in  the  distance. 

Although  the  sun  was  shining  brightly,  and  the  atmos- 
phere gave  evidence  that  spring  was  here,  the  bare  trees  and 
dreary  aspect  of  fields,  made  gray  with  the  frosts  of  winter, 
and  the  occasional  patches  of  dirty  white  snow  on  the  hill 
slopes,  reminded  me  of  the  "  winter  of  our  discontent,"  from 
which  we  were  just  emerging. 

In  the  distance  to  the  right  the  Cayadutta  winds  its  slow 
length  along,  to  turn  the  wheels  in  the  distant  village,  and 
near  its  left  bank,  partly  hidden  by  stately  oaks  and  maples, 
with  lilac  and  evergreen  trees  scattered  here  and  there,  stands 
the  historic  mansion,  Johnson  Hall,  modernized  by  cupola, 
bay  windows,  ornamental  porch,  and  roof  of  variegated  slate. 

I  must  confess  to  a  feeling  of  disappointment,  although  the 
view  from  the  standpoint  of  the  nineteenth  century  is  very 


Johnstown,  New  York  201 

pretty.  Passing  up  a  broad  walk,  about  two  hundred  feet 
long  from  the  entrance  to  this  small  park,  lined  with  large 
maples,  we  reach  the  building.  It  is  true  that  each  maple  has 
been  pierced  with  a  patent  spile,  from  which,  drop  by  drop, 
the  colorless  sap  is  flowing  into  small  tin  pails,  but  when  I 
raise  my  eyes  and  see  the  old  stone  fort  to  the  left  and  back 
of  the  building,  I  recall  the  object  of  my  errand,  and  realize 
that  I  am  at  one  of  the  homes  of  Sir  William  Johnson. 

The  house  and  adjoining  land  belong  to  Mrs.  John  E. 
Wells,  and  the  occupants  are  very  courteous  to  strangers  who 
call  to  see  the  house.  The  present  main  entrance  was  form- 
erly the  rear  of  the  house,  and  faces  nearly  southeast.  En- 
tering, I  am  ushered  at  once  into  a  broad  hall  that  extends  the 
full  depth  of  the  house,  at  the  end  of  which  is  a  broad  stair- 
way with  spacious  landings  that  leads  to  a  similar  large  hall 
above.  To  the  left  of  the  hall  as  you  enter  is  a  large  room 
about  eighteen  by  thirty-eight  feet,  with  an  ornamental  wood 
cornice  extending  around  the  room,  the  sidewalls  having 
panelled  wainscoting  about  four  feet  high.  The  hall  is  about 
fifteen  feet  wide  and  thirty-eight  feet  deep,  and  to  the  right 
are  two  rooms  about  eighteen  feet  square,  whose  ceilings  are 
also  adorned  with  handsome  wood  cornice.  Above,  the  space 
is  divided  into  four  rooms  and  a  wide  hall  to  correspond  to  the 
hall  below.  All  of  these  rooms  are  finished  with  panelled 
wainscoting  and  shallow  windows  without  weights.  One  of 
the  rooms  in  the  second  story  is  pointed  out  as  the  council- 
room  of  Sir  William,  and  another  as  the  place  where  St.  Pat- 
rick Masonic  Lodge  was  organized  and  its  meetings  held  for  a 
number  of  years.  The  basement  is  said  to  have  been  used  as 
a  stable,  but  is  now  fitted  up  with  kitchen,  dining-room,  etc. 

The  building  is  two  stories  high,  and  built  of  wood,  the 
clapboards  being  so  arranged  as  to  represent  blocks  of  stone. 
At  present  the  interior  has  the  appearance  of  a  house  of  the 


202  The  Mohawk  Valley 

present  day,  with  its  panelled  work  grained  to  represent  oak, 
and  the  handsome  belongings  of  a  well-to-do  family  of  refined 
taste,  but  it  would  take  quite  a  stretch  of  imagination  to  people 
it  again  with  Molly  Brant  and  her  half-caste  children  and  her 
brother,  Joseph  Brant,  in  full  war-paint  and  feathers,  passing 
down  from  the  council-room  above,  were  it  not  for  the  de- 
facement of  the  mahogany  banister  and  rail  at  every  step 
taken  by  the  chief  down  the  stairs  that  he  was  never  again  to 
ascend.  Whether  it  was  done  in  anger  or  not,  we  do  not 
know,  but  the  marks  left  by  the  hatchet  seem  to  have  been 
the  work  of  a  mischievous  boy,  rather  than  a  savage.  Outside, 
and  a  little  in  advance  of  the  original  front,  stands  one  of 
the  two  small  forts  that  formerly  stood  on  each  side  of  the 
building. 

It  is  said  that  the  two  forts  were  connected  with  the  base- 
ment of  the  building  by  an  underground  passage,  all  evidence 
of  which  has  been  destroyed,  except  the  opening  from  the 
basement,  which  has  been  closed  with  masonry.  Johnstown 
may  well  feel  proud  of  Johnson  Hall,  St.  John's  Church,  the 
court-house,  and  jail,  and  the  associations  connected  with  Sir 
William  Johnson,  but  the  old  stone  buildings  erected  by  him 
on  the  banks  of  the  Mohawk,  twenty  years  earlier.  Fort  John- 
son and  Guy  Park,  bear  an  impress  of  antiquity  that  the  later 
buildings  do  not  possess. 

St.  John's  Episcopal  Church  is  the  third  edifice  of  that 
name  built  in  the  village.  It  is  said  that  the  first  church  edifice 
was  erected  in  1760,  and  was  located  on  the  ground  now 
known  as  the  old  colonial  graveyard  on  Green  Street,  the  spot 
being  marked  by  a  cross  erected  October  15,  1897,  to  indicate 
the  location  of  the  first  church,  at  which  time  appropriate  ser- 
vices were  held  at  St.  John's  Church  and  at  the  old  graveyard. 
This  undoubtedly  is  the  spot  where  the  early  missionaries 
officiated,  dividing  their  time  between  Queen  Anne's  Chapel 


ST.    JOHN'S    CHl'RCH    AND    GRAVE    OK    SIR    WILLIAM    JdHNSON,    JOHNSTOWN,    N.    V. 


203 


Johnstown,  New  York  205 

at  Fort  Hunter  and  the  old  church  at  Johnstown.  The  next 
church  building  was  probably  erected  in  1771  or  1772.  It  oc- 
cupied part  of  the  lot  on  which  the  present  church  now  stands, 
with  its  side  to  Market  Street,  and  with  front  facing  north- 
ward. In  erecting  this  church  Sir  William  gave  a  two-acre  lot 
on  which  it  stood  and  also  a  glebe  of  forty  acres  on  the  south- 
east side  of  the  village.  The  fight  for  this  glebe,  between  the 
Episcopalians  and  the  Presbyterians,  after  the  war,  is  very  in- 
teresting reading,  but  we  have  not  space  to  record  it  at  the 
present  time. 

It  seems  that  Sir  William  had  never  legally  conveyed  the 
title  to  the  property,  which  after  his  death  reverted  to  his  son. 
Sir  John  Johnson,  and  after  the  confiscation  of  the  estate,  the 
Presbyterians  occupied  both  church  and  glebe.  The  Episco- 
palians obtained  possession  of  the  church  years  after,  but  the 
Presbyterian's  claim  to  the  glebe  was  confirmed  by  the  legis- 
lature. St.  John's  Church  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1836. 
Under  the  chancel  was  found  the  tomb  of  Sir  William,  In 
rebuilding,  the  church's  location  on  the  lot  was  changed,  the 
front  facing  the  east.  This  change  left  the  tomb  outside  the 
walls  of  the  church,  and  its  location  was  lost,  until  discovered  in 
1862  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Kellogg,  than  rector  of  St.  John's.  The 
vault  was  found  in  good  condition  except  that  a  few  bricks  of 
the  roof  had  fallen.  A  plain  gold  ring  bearing  the  date  of 
June,  1739-16  was  found  in  the  vault,  also  the  bullet  which  Sir 
William  received  in  the  battle  of  Lake  George.  The  ring  is 
supposed  to  have  belonged  to  Catherine  Weisenburg,  his  wife, 
and  worn  by  him  after  her  death.  Portions  of  the  skeleton 
remaining  were  sealed  in  a  granite  sarcophagus,  and  restored 
to  the  tomb  with  appropriate  ceremonies  conducted  by  Right 
Rev.  Bishop  Potter,  of  the  State  of  New  York,  June  7,  1862. 
The  grave  may  yet  be  seen  in  front  of  St.  John's  south  of  the 
entrance. 


2o6  The  Mohawk  Valley 

On  a  subsequent  visit  to  this  ancient  village,  many  other 
places  of  interest  were  pointed  out  to  the  writer,  including  the 
court-house  on  North  William  Street,  and  the  jail  on  the  corner 
of  South  Perry  and  Montgomery  Streets,  both  built  by  Sir 
William  Johnson  in  1772,  The  court-house,  although  nearly 
one  hundred  and  thirty  years  old,  is  still  well  preserved  and 
attractive  in  appearance.  The  brick  of  which  it  is  constructed 
was  brought  from  England,  and  transferred  to  a  sloop  at  New 
York  for  voyage  up  the  Hudson  to  Albany.  From  thence 
ttiey  were  carried  by  wagons  to  Johnstown.  In  the  octagonal 
tower  which  surmounts  the  court-house  is  a  substitute  for  a  bell 
in  the  shape  of  a  triangle  made  from  a  large  iron  bar,  which  is 
struck  with  a  hammer  by  the  caretaker  whenever  the  court  is 
called  together. 

The  jail  is  of  stone,  with  walls  four  feet  thick,  and  is  located 
on  a  slight  eminence  sloping  gently  to  the  south,  north,  and 
west.  On  the  lawn  are  cannon  and  pyramids  of  shot  and 
shell,  leaving  the  spectator  a  little  in  doubt  of  the  character 
of  the  old,  well-kept  building,  flanked  by  modern  structures 
for  the  sheriff's  ofifices.  The  jail  was  begun  at  the  same  time 
with  the  court-house,  the  legislature  appropriating  sixteen 
hundred  pounds  for  their  completion  in  1774.  Of  the  jail  it  is 
said : 

Under  the  date  of  October  26,  1775,  the  Tryon  County  Revolu- 
tionary Committee  inquired  of  Sir  John  Johnson  whether  he  pre- 
tended a  prerogative  to  the  courthouse  and  jail,  "  and  would  hinder 
or  interrupt  the  committee  to  make  use  of  the  same  public  houses  to 
our  want  and  service  in  the  common  cause."  Sir  John  in  reply 
claimed  the  buildings  as  his  property  until  he  had  been  refunded 
^^700  which  Sir  William  had  advanced  toward  their  construction. 
The  Committee  at  the  same  time  respecting  the  claim,  fitted  up  a 
private  house  as  a  prison,  and  sent  some  convicts  to  Albany  and 
Hartford  for  safe  keeping.  Congress,  however,  was  informed  that 
Sir  William  had  conveyed  the  buildings  to  the  county,  and  the  jail 


Johnstown,  New  York  209 

was  used  as  a  fort  by  the  patriots  during  the   Revolution,    being 
fortified  v/ith  palisades  and  block  houses. 

Of  the  early  taverns  of  Johnstown  the  most  noted  were 
the  Gilbert  Tice's  Inn,  formerly  on  William  Street,  the  Black 
Horse  Tavern,  on  the  corner  of  William  and  Montgomery 
Streets,  now  known  as  the  Younglove  Homestead,  and  Union 
Hall,  at  the  junction  of  East  Main  and  East  State  Streets,  or, 
as  it  was  called  in  earlier  years,  in  the  angle  of  the  Tribes  Hill 
and  Fondasbush  roads.  They  were  frontier  inns  and  were  at 
times  scenes  of  lawlessness  and  brawls  between  hunters  and 
trappers,  and  the  Indians  and  half-breeds,  who  frequented 
them  to  exchange  their  stock  of  furs  and  drink  deep  in  the 
proceeds.  Shortly  after  the  war,  Gilbert  Tice's  Inn  on  Wil- 
liam Street  was  kept  by  a  Frenchman  named  Jean  Baptiste  de 
Fonclaire,  who  was  a  very  popular  landlord,  notwithstanding 
his  excitability.  It  was  in  this  building  that  Nick  Stoner  met 
the  murderer  of  his  father,  the  story  of  which  meeting  is  told 
by  J.  R.  Simms  and  others: 

One  day  after  the  war  a  party  of  six  or  seven  Canadian  Indians 
who  had  come  to  the  little  settlement  to  exchange  furs  for  fire-water, 
were  gathered  in  and  about  the  kitchen  and  barroom  awaiting  the 
meal  that  was  being  prepared  for  them  by  the  landlord's  family. 
In  the  kitchen  were  three  Indians  drinking  from  bottles  of  whiskey 
that  were  on  the  table  standing  near  the  huge  open  fireplace  where 
the  meal  was  being  cooked.  On  the  hearth  was  a  large  platter  of 
fried  pork  swimming  in  hot  gravy,  and  dishes  of  vegetables  ready 
for  the  meal.  Major  Stoner,  in  search  of  a  friend,  entered  the 
kitchen,  and  being  slightly  under  the  influence  of  liquor  he  soon 
became  involved  in  a  quarrel  with  one  of  the  half-drunken  Red 
Skins.  Major  Stoner's  father  having  been  killed  and  scalped  by  an 
Indian,  the  sight  of  a  dusky  savage  was  always  enough  to  arouse 
murderous  passion  in  his  breast,  and  he  instantly  grappled  the  Indian 
and  threw  him  on  the  table  which  overturned  and  landed  his  an- 
tagonist on  the  floor  amid  the  debris  of  broken  bottles,  crockery, 
and   part  of  the  prepared  feast.     Springing  to  his   feet  while  the 


2IO  The  Mohawk  Valley 

room  resounded  with  war  cries  and  oaths  of  the  combatants,  the 
Indian  leaped  over  the  table  and  grappled  Stoner  again.  But  as  in 
the  former  tackle  the  white  man  proved  the  most  skilful  and  the 
Indian  was  soon  at  the  mercy  of  his  wiry,  maddened  antagonist,  who 
in  attempting  to  throw  him  into  the  open  fireplace  only  succeeded  in 
landing  his  half-naked  body  in  the  great  trencher  of  sizzling  fat, 
burning  his  back  in  a  fearful  manner. 

While  the  fracas  in  the  kitchen  was  going  on,  a  stalwart  half- 
naked  warrior,  aroused  by  hearing  the  name  of  Nick  Stoner  re- 
peated, was  dancing  or  rather  shuffling  around  the  barroom  flourish- 
ing a  scalping-knife  on  the  handle  of  which  weie  numerous  notches, 
and  boasting  in  a  monotonous  tone  of  the  bloody  deeds  recorded  on 
the  handle.  Nine  marks  indicated  the  number  of  scalps  of  white 
men  killed  during  the  war. 

Nick  Stoner  in  a  frenzy  of  rage  left  the  kitchen  after  throwing 
the  Indian  into  the  fire,  passed  through  a  hall  on  his  way  into  the 
front  part  of  the  inn,  and  almost  stumbled  over  an  Indian  called 
Capt.  John,  lying  there  in  a  beastly  state  of  intoxication.  Noticing 
an  earring  in  the  man's  ear,  he  placed  one  foot  on  the  man's  neck 
and  grasping  the  jewel  tore  the  flesh  apart  and  dropped  the  jewel  on 
the  floor.  Unconscious  of  the  injury  done  him  the  Indian  turned 
over  with  a  grunt,  and  Stoner  passed  into  the  barroom,  just  in  time 
to  see  the  painted  red  devil  flourishing  his  scalping-knife  with  yells 
and  gesticulations,  and  hear  him  say,  as  he  pointed  to  a  notch 
deeper  than  the  others,  "and  this  is  the  scalp  of  old  Stoner." 
Crazed  with  liquor  and  stung  to  madness  by  the  thought  of  being  in 
the  presence  of  his  father's  murderer,  he  sprang  to  the  fireplace, 
seized  an  old-fashioned  wrought  andiron,  and  with  the  exclama- 
tion, "  You  red  devil,  you  will  never  scalp  another  one,"  he  hurled 
it,  red-hot  as  it  was,  at  the  head  of  the  Indian,  striking  him  squarely 
on  the  neck  and  laying  him  apparently  lifeless  on  the  floor,  while 
his  own  hand  was  burned  to  a  blister  with  the  top  of  the  andiron. 
At  once  bedlam  seemed  let  loose  and  fears  were  entertained  of 
other  serious  consequences,  but  the  friends  of  Stoner  succeeded  in 
getting  him  to  leave  the  house,  while  others  induced  the  savages  to 
leave  town  bearing  their  burned  comrades  with  them. 


Chapter  XIII 

Some  Accounts  of  the   Notorious   Butler  Family 

Shakespeare  says: 

The  evil  that  men  do  lives  after  them; 
The  good  is  oft  interred  with  their  bones. 

Perhaps  there  is  no  name  in  American  history  that  is  more 
abhorred  throughout  the  length  and  breadth  of  the  Mohawk 
Valley  than  the  name  of  Butler,  through  the  evil  deeds  of  Col. 
John  Butler  and  Lieut.  Walter  N.  Butler,  father  and  son. 
Colonel  John  for  his  connection  with  the  massacre  of  Wyom- 
ing, and  Lieutenant  Walter  as  the  leader  of  the  Cherry  Valley 
massacre.  And  still  their  evil  deeds  were  apparently  confined 
to  about  four  years  of  their  life.  In  history,  nothing  is  spoken 
of  but  the  evil  they  have  done,  and  their  early  lives  are 
wrapped  in  comparative  obscurity.  We  do  not  know  when 
they  were  born,  and  the  histories  of  the  Revolution  do  not 
mention  their  ancestors. 

On  account  of  a  recent  visit  to  the  old  Butler  place  on 
Switzer  Hill  I  have  become  interested  in  the  subject,  and  have 
taken  the  time  and  trouble  to  gather  together  facts  about  this 
family  that  appear  in  different  documents  relating  to  the  early 
history  of  the  Mohawk  Valley  and  the  province  of  New  York. 
Lossing's  Cyclopedia  merely  states  that  John  Butler  was  born  in 
Connecticut,  and  died  at  Niagara  in  1796,  and  makes  no  men- 
tion of  the  date  of  his  birth  or  the  name  of  his  father.  Among 
the  colonial  documents,  however,  we  find  the  name  of  a  Wal- 

211 


212  The  Mohawk  Valley 

ter  Butler,  who  was  appointed  lieutenant  August  i6,  1726,  by 
Governor  Burnett  of  New  York.  He  was  probably  connected 
with  the  family  of  the  Irish  dukes  of  Ormond  and  Arran,  who 
were  patrons  of  the  Burnett  family.  On  May  6,  1728,  Lieut. 
Walter  Butler  was  assigned  to  Capt.  Holland's  company  at 
Albany. 

In  1733  the  Crown  granted  to  Walter  Butler  and  forty- 
two  others  a  tract  of  land  near  the  Schoharie  Creek,  running 
south  to  Schoharie,  and  then  following  the  line  of  Schenectady 
County  to  the  Mohawk  River.  In  1735  fourteen  thousand 
acres  of  this  land  extending  from  Fort  Hunter  along  the  Mo- 
hawk to  Phillip's  lock,  came  into  the  possession  of  Sir  Peter 
Warren,  the  uncle  of  Sir  William  Johnson. 

On  December  31,  1735,  the  Crown  also  granted  Walter 
Butler  and  three  others  a  tract  of  land  in  the  towns  of  Johns- 
town and  Mohawk,  comprising  four  thousand  acres.  On  the 
Tryon  map  of  1779  ^^'^'s  grant  is  shown  as  lying  between  Trips 
(Tribes)  Hill  and  Johnstown.  This  seems  to  connect  Walter 
Butler,  senior,  with  the  Butler  place  near  Switzer  Hill. 

(Bear  in  mind  that  this  Walter  Butler  was  the  grandfather 
of  Walter  N.  Butler,  of  the  Cherry  Valley  massacre  notoriety.) 

In  1733  he  was  a  witness  to  a  deed  at  Fort  Hunter.  In 
1747  Sir  William  Johnson  sent  Lieut.  Walter  Butler  on  a  mis- 
sion to  Crown  Point.  A  little  later  Captain  Walter  Butler 
(having  been  promoted)  was  sent  to  Oswego  with  his  son, 
John,  as  interpreter.  Between  1756  and  1765  Captain  John 
Butler  was  frequently  in  attendance  at  conferences  of  the  In- 
dians and  Sir  William  Johnson  at  Fort  Johnson,  sometimes 
as  one  of  the  interpreters.  We  know  that  Captain  John  But- 
ler was  afterward  made  a  colonel,  and  his  son,  Walter,  a  lieu- 
tenant of  the  British  troops.  In  1743  Walter  Butler,  Sr., 
erected  a  frame  house  on  his  grant  on  Switzer  Hill,  which 
afterwards  became  the  home  of  his  son.   Colonel   John,  and 


Accounts  of  the  Notorious  Butler  Family     213 

grandson,  Lieut.  Walter  N.  Butler,  and  was  confiscated  when 
Colonel  John  fled  to  Canada,  during  the  war  of  the  Revolu- 
tion, with  Sir  John  Johnson  and  his  tories. 

The  Rev.  Gideon  Hawley,  in  his  journey  to  Broome 
County,  in  1753,  records  that  Lieutenant  (John)  Butler  was  in 
charge  of  a  sergeant  and  a  few  privates  at  Fort  Hunter,  where 
he  resided  with  his  family.  Some  time  previous  to  1753  he  is 
said  to  have  been  one  of  the  Connecticut  colony  that  located 
in  the  Wyoming  Valley,  Pennsylvania.  This,  I  think,  is  a 
mistake,  as  he  is  known  to  have  been  located  in  the  Mohawk 
Valley  at  the  time  of  the  local  troubles  between  the  colony 
from  Connecticut  and  the  Pennsylvanians. 

It  is  recorded  that  "  the  valley  (Wyoming)  was  purchased 
of  the  Six  Nations  in  1754,  by  an  association  formed  in  Con- 
necticut, and  called  the  Connecticut  Susquehanna  Company; 
but  no  perm.anent  settlement  was  attempted  till  1762.  The 
next  year  the  settlers  were  dispersed  by  the  Indians."  In 
1769  a  body  of  forty  Connecticut  pioneers  was  sent  thither  by 
the  Susquehanna  Company,  but  found  themselves  forestalled 
by  some  Pennsylvanians,  the  Six  Nations  having  in  the  pre- 
ceding year  again  sold  the  territory  to  the  proprietaries  of 
Pennsylvania,  and  for  the  next  six  years  Wyoming  was  the 
scene  of  numerous  conflicts  between  settlers  from  the  two  col- 
onies, both  of  which  under  their  charters,  as  well  as  by  pur- 
chase, claimed  possession  of  the  soil.  This  contest  was  at 
its  height  at  the  time  of  the  Revolution,  and  undoubtedly  was 
one  of  the  causes  that  led  to  the  attack  and  massacre  of  the 
settlers  of  the  Wyoming  Valley,  July  3,  1778,  or  at  least  for 
some  of  the  atrocities  that  were  committed  by  former  neigh- 
bors and  acquaintances. 

That  Major  John  Butler  was  in  command  of  the  Rangers 
and  Indians  at  Wyoming  is  a  well-authenticated  fact,  as  we 
have  it  from  his  own  report  to   Lieutenant-Colonel  Bolton, 


214  The  Mohawk  Valley 

dated  July  8,  1778.  He  says,  "  In  this  action  were  taken 
two  hundred  and  twenty-seven  scalps,  and  only  five  prisoners." 
This  report  alone  is  enough  to  brand  him  as  an  incarnate  fiend. 
No  doubt  the  Senecas  were  responsible  for  most  of  the  atroci- 
ties, but  Butler  knew  what  to  expect  from  his  savage  allies, 
and  made  no  attempt  to  restrain  them.  The  Senecas  were  in 
command  of  a  noted  chief,  Gi-on-gwah-tuh,  and  a  half-breed 
called  Queen  Esther,  probably  a  daughter  of  Catherine  Mon- 
tour. She  is  said  to  have  killed  fourteen  of  the  inhabitants  of 
the  valley  with  her  own  hand. 

It  is  said  that  sixteen  of  the  prisoners  were  arranged  in  a 
circle  around  a  large  stone,  and  held  there  by  a  large  number 
of  Indians.  This  little  party  had  been  assigned  to  Queen 
Esther.  Striking  up  a  chant,  she  passed  from  one  victim  to 
the  next,  and  with  a  death-maul  dashed  out  the  brains  of 
fourteen  of  her  victims.  Two  escaped,  by  making  a  sudden 
dash  through  the  lines,  and  fled  to  the  woods  and  finally  es- 
caped in  safety.  Catherine  Montour,  the  elder,  is  an  interest- 
ing character  in  Indian  history.  According  to  tradition,  and 
her  own  story,  her  father  was  a  governor  of  Canada,  probably 
Frontenac,  and  her  mother  a  Huron  woinan.  Until  about  ten 
years  of  age  she  had  been  carefully  reared  and  educated. 
During  the  war  between  the  Six  Nations  and  the  French  and 
Hurons,  she  was  captured  and  adopted  by  the  Senecas. 

Lord  Cornbury,  in  a  letter  to  the  Lords  of  the  Board  of 
Trade  (in  London)  August  20,  1708,  says: 

There  is  come  to  Albany  one  Montour,  who  is  a  son  of  a  French 
gentleman  who  came  about  forty  years  ago  to  settle  in  Canada.  He 
had  to  do  with  an  Indian  woman,  by  whom  he  had  a  son  and  two 
daughters.  The  man  I  mention  is  the  son.  He  had  lived  all  along 
like  an  Indian.  Sometime  ago  the  elder  Montour  had  left  the 
French,  and  had  lived  among  the  far  Indians  (Senecas),  and  it  is 
chiefly  by  his  means  that  I  have  prevailed  with  those  far  nations  to 
come  to  Albany. 


THE    rill   Kl-HUUSE,    JOHNSTOWN,     I772 


21'5 


Accounts  of  the  Notorious  Butler  Family    217 

In  1694  Mr.  Montour  was  wounded  by  two  Mohawk  Indians 
near  Fort  La  Motte.  A  letter  dated  Quebec,  Nov.  14,  1706, 
and  written  by  M.  de  Vandreuil,  says:  "  He  was  devoted  to 
the  English,  and  in  their  pay;  lived  with  the  Senecas."  He 
was  killed  by  Lieut.  Sieur  de  Joncaire,  by  order  of  M.  de 
Vandreuil. 

Captain  Andrew  Montour,  the  son  spoken  of  above,  acted 
as  an  interpreter  for  the  Indian  Commissioners  in  1756;  also 
sang  Indian  war-songs  before  Sir  William  Johnson  at  Fort 
Johnson,  and  presented  scalps  to  Sir  William  at  Johnson 
Hall  in  1764.  There  is  also  a  record  of  Mrs.  Montour  as  an 
interpreter  in  171 1,  at  Albany.  Stone,  in  his  life  of  Sir  Wil- 
liam Johnson,  speaks  of  Mrs.  Montour,  and  describes  her  as 
she  appeared  at  a  council  of  the  Indian  Commissioners  and 
delegates  from  the  Six  Nations,  at  Lancaster,  Pa.,  in  1744: 

Although  so  young  when  made  a  prisoner,  she  had  nevertheless 
preserved  her  language;  and  being  in  youth  and  middle  age  very 
handsome  and  of  good  address,  she  had  been  greatly  caressed  by 
the  gentlewomen  of  Philadelphia  during  her  occasional  visits  to  that 
city  with  her  people  on  business.  Indeed  she  was  always  held  in 
great  esteem  by  the  white  people,  invited  to  their  houses,  and  enter- 
tained with  marked  civility. 

It  is  pretty  hard  to  believe  that  the  woman  described  above 
should  in  her  old  age  have  become  a  fiend  incarnate.  It  is 
said  of  her,  after  the  battle  of  Wyoming:  "  Catherine  Mon- 
tour, who  might  well  be  termed  a  fury,  acted  a  conspicuous 
part  in  this  tragedy.  She  followed  in  the  train  of  the  victori- 
ous army,  ransacking  the  heap  of  slain,  and  with  her  arms 
covered  with  gore,  barbarously  murdered  the  wounded,  who 
in  vain  supplicated  for  their  lives  "  (Campbell). 

Among  the  Indians  that  were  driven  out  of  the  Seneca 
country  by  General  Sullivan  was  Catherine  Montour.      This 


2i8  The  Mohawk  Valley 

creature  was  treated  with  considerable  attention  by  some  of 
the  British  officers.  It  is  said  that  she  had  two  sons,  who 
were  leaders  of  bands  at  the  massacre  of  Wyoming,  which  fact 
consequently  imparted  additional  consequence  to  her.  One 
of  Catherine  Montour's  sons  took  a  Mr.  Cannon  prisoner  at 
Cherry  Valley.  He  was  an  aged  man  and  had  been  severely 
wounded  by  a  musket  ball.  On  their  arrival  in  the  Indian 
country,  Catherine  addressed  her  son  in  English  in  the  pres- 
ence of  Mr.  Cannon,  saying: 

Why  did  you  bring  that  old  man  a  prisoner  ?  Why  did 
you  not  kill  him  when  you  took  him  prisoner  ?  "  (I  am  in- 
debted to  William  Campbell's  Annals  of  Tryon  County  for  the 
above  incident). 

A  John  Montour  is  found  among  Lieutenant  Walter  N. 
Butler's  forces,  after  the  massacre  of  Cherry  Valley,  in  com- 
mand of  a  party  of  Senecas,  and  Rowland  Montour  defeated 
Colonel  Cairns  near  Catawisse,  during  General  Sullivan's  raid, 
and  was  wounded  in  the  arm  and  died  a  week  later.  These 
men  were  probably  sons  or  grandsons  of  Catherine  Montour. 

In  E.  Cruikshank's  Butler  s  Rangers,  published  at  Fort 
Erie  in  1893,  we  find  the  following  account  of  the  Butler 
family  : 

Lieut.  Walter  Butler,  a  young  Irish  subaltern,  claiming  descent 
from  the  illustrious  family  of  Ormonde,  came  with  his  regiment  to 
America  in  the  early  part  of  the  18th  century,  from  which  he  was 
exchanged  into  one  of  the  independent  companies  formed  for  ser- 
vice in  the  colonies,  and  afterward  incorporated  as  the  Royal  Ameri- 
cans or  60th.  In  the  course  of  his  service  he  made  himself  useful  to 
Sir  William  Johnson,  who  in  return  exerted  himself  for  the  advance- 
ment of  the  Butler  family.  ..  ,  .  He  had  two  sons:  John,  the 
eldest,  was  born  at  New  London,  Conn.,  in  1725,  and  educated  in 
the  same  province, 

and  Walter,  junior,  who  was  killed  at  Crown  Point,  on  Sep- 
tember 8,  1755,  at  the  same  time  that  Parrel  Wade,  Johnson's 


Accounts  of  the  Notorious  Butler  Family     219 

brother-in-law,  and  the  celebrated  Mohawk  chief,  Hendrick, 
were  killed. 

Walter  Butler,  Sr.,  died  in  1760,  at  the  age  of  ninety,  hav- 
ing been  a  lieutenant  in  the  British  army  for  seventy  years. 
Lieutenant  Walter,  the  brother  of  Colonel  John  Butler,  who 
is  spoken  of  as  having  been  killed  at  Crown  Point  in  1755,  was 
undoubtedly  a  son-in-law  of  Jan  Wemp  (Wemple)  of  Fort 
Hunter,  who  died  in  1749,  as  in  his  will  he  bequeaths  a  por- 
tion of  his  estate  to  "  my  daughter,  Maria  Butler,  wife  of 
Lieutenant  Walter  Butler,  Jr." 

Cruikshank,  speaking  again  of  Captain  John  Butler,  says: 

He  went  in  1760  with  General  Amherst  to  Montreal,  as  second  in 
command  of  the  Indians.  During  Pontiac's  war  he  was  actively 
employed  in  the  difficult  task  of  restraining  the  Six  Nations  from 
joining  the  hostile  Indians.  Owing  to  his  intimate  knowledge  of 
several  Indian  languages,  he  was  constantly  employed  by  Sir  Wil- 
liam Johnson,  up  to  the  hour  of  his  death,  as  interpreter  at  the  most 
important  councils.  He  then  resided  at  his  fine  estate  at  Butlers- 
burg  (Switzer  Hill),  near  Caughnawaga,  and  was  one  of  the  judges 
of  the  county  court,  and  lieutenant-colonel  of  Guy  Johnson's  militia. 
Sir  William  Johnson  had  nominated  him  an  executor  of  his  will; 
but  from  some  unknown  cause  he  had  incurred  the  pronounced  dis- 
like, if  not  the  positive  enmity  of  Sir  John  Johnson.  Besides  his 
wife,  his  family  consisted  of  Walter  N.,  the  eldest  son,  lately  ad- 
mitted to  the  bar,  "  a  youth  of  spirit,  sense,  and  ability  "  ;  Thomas, 
still  under  twenty,  two  younger  sons,  and  a  daughter. 

It  may  be  said  that  Colonel  John  Butler  appears  to  have 
been  a  close  friend  of  Sir  William  Johnson,  and  associated 
with  him  in  many  of  the  political  and  military  schemes  of  those 
early  days.  In  1772  the  first  court  of  general  quarter  sessions 
was  held  at  Johnstown,  and  the  judges  were  Guy  Johnson, 
John  Butler,  and  Peter  Conyne.  After  the  death  of  Sir  Wil- 
liam Johnson,  on  July  11,  1774,  John  Butler  and  his  son  Wal- 
ter N.,  are  said  to  have  been  in  close  official  and  social  relations 


220  The  Mohawk  Valley 

with  Sir  John  Johnson,  and  the  elder  Butler  is  spoken  of  as 
being  a  wealthy  and  influential  resident  of  Tryon  county.  Of 
Walter  N.  Butler,  we  know  that  he  was  about  the  age  of  Sir 
John  Johnson  and  that  he  was  his  playmate  in  boyhood,  and 
the  comrade  and  friend  of  his  manhood.  The  only  description 
we  have  seen  of  Walter  N.  Butler  is  found  in  Harold  Frederic's 
charming  book,  In  the  Valley.  In  this  book  his  descriptions 
have  been  so  true  to  history  that  it  is  safe  to  assume  that  his 
researches  have  enabled  him  to  give  a  pretty  correct  account 
of  Walter  N.  Butler's  person  and  character.  He  speaks  of 
him  at  the  age  of  twenty-three,  and  says: 

He  was  a  handsome  youth,  with  features  cut  as  in  a  cameo,  and 
pale-brown,  smooth  skin,  and  large,  deep  eyes;  he  was  not  tall,  but 
formed  with  perfect  delicacy.  He  dressed,  too,  with  remarkable 
taste,  contriving  always  to  appear  the  gentleman,  yet  not  out  of 
place  in  the  wilderness.  He  wore  his  own  black  hair,  carelessly 
tied  or  flowing,  and  with  no  thought  of  powder. 

He  speaks  of  him  as  being  "  of  a  solemn  and  meditative 
nature,  and  filled  to  his  nostrils  with  pride  about  his  ancestors, 
the  Dukes  of  Ormonde."  He  was,  however,  of  excitable  nat- 
ure, and  his  being  a  constant  companion  of  the  Johnsons  in  their 
dissipations,  undoubtedly  changed  his  nature  somewhat  during 
the  next  trying  six  years.  He  studied  law,  and  is  spoken  of  as 
a  pretty  able  young  lawyer.  Both  father  and  son  were  at  the 
siege  of  Fort  Schuyler  in  1777,  with  Colonel  St.  Leger,  Sir 
John  Johnson,  and  Joseph  Brant,  as  we  read  of  Colonel  John 
Butler  and  two  others  entering  the  fort  under  a  white  flag  with 
a  bombastic  demand  for  its  surrender,  which  was  indignantly 
refused  by  the  commanding  officer,  Colonel  Gansevoort,  We 
also  read  of  Colonel  John  Butler  at  the  battle  of  Oriskany, 
where  he  caused  the  Royal  Greens  to  turn  their  coats  in  order 
to  deceive   Herkimer's  men,  by  pretending  that   they  were 


Accounts  of  the  Notorious  Butler  Family    221 

friends  from  the  fort.  The  ruse  was  discovered,  and  the 
Royal  Greens  were  put  to  rout.  After  the  battle  of  Oriskany, 
Lieutenant  Walter  secretly  came  to  the  house  of  one  Shoe- 
maker, near  Fort  Clayton,  on  a  secret  mission  from  Sir  John 
Johnson,  and  together  with  Han  Yost  Schuyler  and  others, 
were  captured  at  Shoemaker's  house,  tried  by  order  of  General 
Benedict  Arnold,  and  condemned  to  death  as  a  spy.  Owing 
to  the  solicitation  of  some  of  the  American  officers,  the  sen- 
tence of  death  was  remitted,  and  Walter  N.  Butler  was  sent 
to  Albany  and  placed  in  prison.  Feigning  sickness,  and 
through  the  clemency  of  Lafayette,  he  was  removed  to  a  pri- 
vate house  from  which  he  managed,  with  the  help  of  friends, 
to  escape,  and  returned  to  the  British  army  burning  with  indig- 
nation at  what  he  termed  the  outrage  of  having  his  sacred 
person  confined  in  a  rebel  prison. 

He  made  his  way  direct  to  Niagara,  and  requested  and  op- 
tained  command  of  a  detachment  of  his  father's  rangers, 
called  the  Butler  Rangers,  with  permission  to  employ  the 
force  of  Indians  under  Captain  Joseph  Brant. 

On  his  way  from  Niagara,  Butler  met  Brant,  who  was  dis- 
pleased at  the  idea  of  being  assigned  to  a  subordinate  station 
under  a  man  he  disliked.  However,  he  finally  turned  back 
with  his  force  of  five  hundred  Indians.  This  expedition  cul- 
minated in  the  massacre  of  Cherry  Valley,  November  ii,  1778, 
with  all  of  its  heartrending  atrocities,  undertaken  by  Walter 
N.  Butler  in  a  spirit  of  revenge  on  innocent  men,  women, 
and  children,  I0  wipe  out  the  disgrace  (?)  of  having  been  con- 
fined in  prison  as  a  spy.  Campbell  says  that:  "  Thirty-two 
inhabitants,  principally  women  and  children,  were  killed,  and 
sixteen  Continental  soldiers,  and  all  of  the  houses,  barns,  and 
outbuildings  were  burned,  many  of  the  barns  being  filled  with 
hay  and  grain." 

Campbell  also  says: 


2  22  The  Mohawk  Valley 

Whatever  may  have  been  the  motives  or  the  conduct  of  Brant 
and  his  Indians,  it  will  not  wipe  away  the  stain  from  the  character 
of  Walter  N.  Butler.  The  night  previous  to  the  massacre,  some  of 
his  rangers  who  were  acquainted  in  Cherry  Valley,  requested  per- 
mission to  go  secretly  into  the  settlement  and  apprise  his  and  their 
friends  of  their  approach,  that  they  might  escape  the  fury  of  the 
Indians.  This  he  peremptorily  refused,  saying  that  there  were  so 
many  families  connected  that  the  one  would  inform  the  others  and  all 
would  escape.  He  thus  sacrificed  his  friends  for  the  sake  of  punish- 
ing his  enemies. 

After  this  massacre,  Walter  N.  Butler  returned  to  Niagara 
with  his  forces  and  prisoners.  On  July  31,  1779,  General  Sul- 
livan's expedition  against  the  Senecas  was  organized,  which 
succeeded  in  driving  the  main  body  of  Indians  to  Fort  Niag- 
ara and  Canada.  During  his  raid  he  destroyed  the  crops  and 
buildings  of  the  Senecas,  and,  with  the  help  of  the  friendly 
Oneidas,  did  not  fail  to  kill  and  scalp  many  of  the  Indian  men, 
women,  and  children,  for  which  acts  he  has  been  severely 
condemned. 

In  May,  1780,  Sir  John  Johnson  and  the  Butlers  made  their 
first  raid  through  the  Mohawk  Valley  proper,  killing  and 
plundering  in  every  direction,  and  finally  returned  to  Canada 
without  being  molested. 

In  the  autumn  of  1781  another  raid  of  Indians  and  Tories 
under  Major  Ross  and  Walter  N.  Butler  met  with  a  different  re- 
ception. They  first  appeared  at  Currytown,  near  Canajoharie, 
October  24th  of  that  year,  and  passed  rapidly  on  to  the  vicinity 
of  Fort  Hunter  and  Warrensbush,  killing  and  capturing  all 
that  they  met;  then  crossed  the  river  and  directed  their 
course  to  Johnstown,  with  Colonel  Willett  and  416  men  in  hot 
pursuit.  In  the  vicinity  of  Johnson  Hall,  Willett  overtook  the 
enemy  and  at  once  prepared  for  battle,  notwithstanding  the 
fact  that  Major  Ross's  force  was  greatly  superior  in  numbers. 
(In  a  recent  visit  to  Johnstown  the  battlefield  was  pointed  out 


Accounts  of  the  Notorious  Butler  Family     225 

to  me  by  Mr.  Edward  Wells,  a  son  of  Eleazer  Wells,  and  a 
brother  of  the  late  John  S.  Wells,  whose  family  now  own  and 
occupy  Johnson  Hall.  The  chief  object  of  our  late  visit  to 
Johnstown  was  for  the  purpose  of  visiting  the  old  battlefield.) 
William  Campbell,  in  his  Anna/s  of  Tryon  County,  published 
in  1 83 1,  says: 

Major  Ross  and  Walter  Butler's  force  was  encamped  on  the 
elevated  ground  a  little  north  of  Johnson  Hall.  The  edifice,  erected 
by  Sir  William  Johnson,  and  in  which  he  resided  at  the  time  of  his 
death,  is  situated  about  one  mile  distant  from  the  courthouse  in 
the  centre  of  the  village,  and  upon  ground  descending  gradually 
from  the  northwest  to  the  south  and  southeast.  The  village  plot 
descends  to  the  north,  thus  forming  a  small  valley  between  the  Hall 
and  the  village.  To  a  person  in  the  village  Johnson  Hall  appears 
to  be  situated  on  a  lawn,  beyond  which  no  prospect  opens  to  the 
sight.  When  arrived  at  the  Hall,  he  perceives  in  an  easterly  direc- 
tion the  range  of  Mayfield  hills  or  mountains,  while  to  the  south  are 
seen  Anthony's  Nose,  on  the  Mohawk,  beyond  that  Charleston,  and 
still  further  on,  the  hills  between  Canajoharie  and  Cherry  Valley; 
and  at  a  distance  of  between  thirty  to  forty  miles,  the  blue,  cloud- 
like mountains  leading  to  the  Catskills  and  Delaware. 

Colonel  Willett  with  his  inferior  force  was  compelled  to  re- 
sort to  strategy  in  attacking.  Accordingly,  he  detached  one 
hundred  men  under  Colonel  Harper  to  gain  the  rear  of  the  en- 
emy by  a  circuitous  march  around  the  hill  to  the  west  and 
north  of  the  Hall  and  fall  upon  them  in  the  rear,  while  Colonel 
Willett  attacked  them  in  front.  A  short  distance  above  the 
Hall,  Colonel  Willett  was  met  by  Ross  with  all  his  force,  and 
his  men  gave  way  at  the  first  fire  and  retreated.  Willett  en- 
deavored to  rally  them  at  the  Hall,  but  failed.  At  the  stone 
church  (old  St.  John's)  in  the  village  he  at  last  induced  them 
to  make  a  stand,  and  being  joined  by  two  hundred  militia  who 
had  just  arrived,  again  advanced  to  the  attack.  The  detach- 
ment under  Colonel  Harper,  having  gained  the  rear,  opened  a 

IS 


2  26  The  Mohawk  Valley 

vigorous  fire  on  the  enemy,  and  obstinately  maintained  an  un- 
equal contest,  which  gave  Willett  time  to  form  his  men  anew 
and  again  attack  the  enemy  in  front. 

At  nightfall,  after  a  severe  struggle,  Major  Ross's  force,  over- 
come and  harassed  on  all  sides,  fled  in  confusion  to  the  woods, 
pot  halting  to  encamp  until  they  had  gone  several  miles.  In 
this  engagement  the  Americans  lost  about  forty;  the  enemy 
about  the  same  number  killed  and  fifty  taken  prisoners. 

Major  Ross  retreated  up  the  north  side  of  the  Mohawk, 
marching  all  night,  after  the  battle.  In  the  morning  he  was 
pursued  by  Colonel  Willett,  but  was  not  overtaken.  It  was  in 
this  retreat  that  Walter  N.  Butler  was  killed.  He  was  pur- 
sued by  a  small  party  of  Oneida  Indians.  When  he  arrived 
at  West  Canada  Creek,  about  fifteen  miles  above  Herkimer, 
he  swam  his  horse  across  the  stream,  and  then,  turning 
around,  defied  his  pursuers,  who  were  on  the  opposite  side. 
An  Oneida  Indian  immediately  discharged  his  rifle  and 
wounded  him,  and  he  fell.  Throwing  down  his  rifle  and 
blanket,  the  Indian  plunged  into  the  creek  and  swam  across. 
As  soon  as  he  gained  the  opposite  bank,  he  raised  his  toma- 
hawk, and  with  a  yell  sprang  like  a  tiger  upon  his  fallen  foe. 
Butler  supplicated,  though  in  vain,  for  mercy;  the  Oneida, 
with  uplifted  axe,  shouted  in  his  broken  English,  "  Sherry 
Valley!  Remember  Sherry  Valley  ?"  and  then  buried  it  in 
his  brains.  He  tore  the  scalp  from  his  victim  still  quivering 
in  the  agonies  of  death,  and  when  the  remainder  of  the  Onei- 
das  joined  him,  the  spirit  of  Walter  N.  Butler  had  gone.  The 
body  was  left  unburied  where  he  fell.  The  place  where  he 
crossed  is  called  Butler's  Ford  to  this  day. 

The  following  story  is  told  by  Dawson  in  his  Battles  of  the 
United  States.  It  occurred  in  Sullivan's  expedition  against 
the  Senecas.  Lieutenant  Boyd  and  Sergeant  Parker  were 
taken  prisoners  by  the  Indians: 


Accounts  of  the  Notorious  Butler  Family     227 

Knowing  the  certainty  of  his  fate  unless  immediate  relief  was 
afforded,  Lieut.  Boyd  asked  for  Joseph  Brant,  who  commanded  the 
Indians  who  had  captured  him.  On  being  taken  before  Brant  he 
gave  the  Masonic  sign  of  distress  and  claimed  from  him  the  protec- 
tion of  "  a  brother,"  and  was  assured  by  the  chief  that  he  sliould 
suffer  no  harm.  The  prisoners  were  conducted  to  Little  Beards- 
town,  and  Boyd  was  well  treated;  but  during  a  short  absence  of 
Joseph  Brant,  Col.  John  Butler — the  infamous  Tory  chief — called 
on  the  prisoners  for  information  respecting  the  American  army. 
Declining  to  answer,  they  were  threatened  with  torture,  but  still 
refused;  and  with  fiend-like  cruelty — such  as  none  but  Butler  and 
his  kind  could  invent,  and  none  but  savages  execute — the  threat 
was  enforced,  and  Boyd  and  Parker  fell,  martyrs  in  the  cause  of 
their  country. 

The  remains  of  these  brave  soldiers  were  found  two  days  after- 
ward by  their  comrades  and  buried  at  Little  Beardstown. 

In  August,  1842,  their  bodies  were  disinterred  and  buried 
with  appropriate  ceremonies  in  Mount  Hope  Cemetery,  near 
Rochester,  N.  Y. 

When  I  began  this  record  with  a  quotation  from  Shakes- 
peare, I  expected  to  be  able  to  prove  its  truth  by  showing  that 
although  the  evil  these  men  did  lives  after  their  death,  there 
must  have  been  some  inherent  goodness  in  their  lives  that  was 
overshadowed  by  their  acts  and  "  buried  with  their  bones." 
But  I  have  searched  in  vain  for  a  single  kindly  act  or  generous 
impulse  of  Captain  Butler  and  his  infamous  son,  Walter  N. 
When  their  acts  are  compared  with  those  of  Joseph  Brant, 
their  deeds  are  the  deeds  of  savages,  and  Brant's  the  acts  of  a 
noble,  generous  man. 

The  Butlers  appear  to  have  been  not  only  arrogant  and 
supercilious  in  a  high  degree,  but  barbarous,  treacherous,  re- 
vengeful, ferocious,  merciless,  brutal,  diabolically  wicked  and 
cruel;  with  the  spirit  of  fiends  they  committed  cruelties 
worthy  of  the  dungeons  of  the  Inquisition.  No  wonder 
their  lives  are  not  attractive  to  historians.      In  a  statement 


228  The  Mohawk  Valley 

addressed  to  the  New  York  Legislature,  December  20,  1780,  I 
find  an  account  of  some  of  the  work  done  by  the  quartette 
consisting  of  Sir  John  Johnson,  Joseph  Brant,  Colonel  John 
Butler,  and  his  son,  Lieutenant  Walter  N.  Butler: 

It  is  estimated  that  seven  hundred  buildings  had  been  burned  in 
Tryon  County;  six  hundred  and  thirteen  persons  had  deserted  to 
the  enemy;  three  hundred  and  fifty-four  families  had  abandoned 
their  dwellings;  one  hundred  and  ninety-seven  lives  had  been  lost; 
one  hundred  and  twenty-one  persons  had  been  carried  into  cap- 
tivity; and  twelve  thousand  farms  lay  uncultivated  by  reason  of 
the  enemy. 

Truly  those  were  the  times  that  tried  men's  souls. 
Robert  Campbell  says  of  the  Butlers: 

Col.  John  Butler  had  some  good  traits  of  character  and  in  his 
calm  moments  would  regret  the  ravages  committed  by  the  Indians 
and  Tories,  but  Walter  N.  Butler  was  distinguished  from  youth  for 
his  severe,  acrimonious  disposition.  After  the  massacre  at  Cherry 
Valley,  he  went  to  Quebec,  but  General  Haldiman,  governor  of 
Canada,  gave  out  that  he  did  not  wish  to  see  him. 

When  Col.  John  Butler  went  to  Canada  he  left  his  wife  and 
children  in  Montgomery  County.  The  committee  of  safety  refused 
permission  for  them  to  join  him.  Walter  N.  Butler  wrote  to  the 
committee  proposing  an  exchange  of  Mrs.  Campbell  and  her  child- 
ren (who  had  been  taken  prisoners  at  Cherry  Valley)  for  his  mother 
and  brother.  This  exchange  was  finally  agreed  to  and  the  family 
were  reunited  at  Niagara. 

A  Canadian,  E.  Cruikshank,  in  a  book  called  Butler's 
Rangers,  has  given  a  short  history  of  the  Johnsons  and  the 
raids  of  Butler's  Rangers,  from  the  English  or  Canadian 
standpoint.  Of  course  he  assumes  that  Sir  William,  if  he  had 
lived  and  taken  part  in  the  stirring  scenes  of  the  Revolution, 
would  have  been  loyal  to  King  George,  and  that  his  influence 
would  have  made  Tories  of  a  large  number  of  the  residents  of 
the  Mohawk  Valley,  who  were  afterward  bitter  opponents  to 
his  unpopular  son,  Sir  John  Johnson. 


Accounts  of  the  Notorious  Butler  Family    229 

It  is  quite  interesting  to  note  his  reasons  and  cause  for  the 
Revolution,  in  the  province  of  New  York.  Some  of  them  no 
doubt  will  be  new  to  many  of  my  readers.      He  says: 

The  power  of  the  Loyalist  (Tory)  party  was  probably  greater  in 
New  York  than  in  any  other  province,  but  their  leaders  lacked  the 
courage  needful  to  turn  it  to  the  best  advantage.  The  wealthy 
merchants,  the  proprietors  of  the  great  feudal  manors,  the  adherents 
to  the  Church  of  England,  the  Dutch  farmers  and  the  recent  German 
immigrants  were  generally  disposed  to  be  loyal  or  absolutely  neutral. 
In  the  city  of  New  York,  two-thirds  of  the  property  was  owned  by 
Loyalists,  and  outside  there  was  scarcely  a  symptom  of  disaffection. 
But  there  was  a  small  party  of  violent  revolutionists  prepared  to  go 
to  any  length,  and  they  dangled  before  the  eyes  of  many  discon- 
tented, lawless  men  almost  irresistible  temptations  to  join  them. 
There  was  an  enormous  quantity  of  land  held  by  a  few  active 
Loyalists  which  might  be  parcelled  out  among  their  followers;  there 
was,  too,  a  debt  of  eight  or  nine  millions  of  pounds  due  to  British 
merchants  which  might  be  repudiated.  There  was,  besides,  illimit- 
able liberty  to  gratify  their  passions  and  do  whatever  seemed  right 
in  their  own  eyes." 

Rather  a  sordid  view  to  take  of  the  causes  that  produced 
the  birth  of  our  glorious  Republic.  Nothing  said  about  the 
injustice  and  oppression  of  rulers,  nothing  about  love  of  coun- 
try and  the  desire  for  political  and  religious  freedom  and 
hatred  of  monarchical  government  which  had  been  simmering 
and  boiling  in  the  hearts  of  the  provincials  ever  since  the  mur- 
der of  the  martyred  Lieutenant-Governor  Jacob  Leisler,  who 
was  executed  in  New  York  City  on  May  i6,  1691. 

After  speaking  of  the  apathy  of  the  people  in  New  York, 
and  the  fact  that  "  the  inhabitants  of  Tryon  County  were,  to 
all  appearance,  among  the  most  loyal  and  contented,"  he  says: 

The  great  proprietors  and  wealthy  families  here  were  Loyalists 
(Tories)  to  a  man.  Besides  the  Johnson  family,  the  Bradts,  Freys, 
Hares,   Herkimers,   Thompsons  and  Youngs,  John  Butler,   Joseph 


230  The  Mohawk  Valley 

Dease,  Robert  Lotridge,  Hendrick  Nelles,  Peter  Ten  Broeck,  Alex- 
ander White,  and  many  others,  imperilled  handsome  estates,  which ^ 
in  the  end  were  confiscated.  Large  tracts  of  land  were  owned  by  ab- 
sentee Loyalists,  such  as  the  Cosbys,  Delanceys,  De  Paysters,  Wal- 
tons,  and  Gov.  Tryon  himself,  and  these  eventually  shared  the  same/ 
fate. 

Despite  the  influence  of  all  these  men  the  spirit  of  discon- 
tent continued  to  make  headway. 

Sir  William  Johnson's  latest  project  for  improving  his  estates  and 
peopling  the  country  (in  r773,  one  year  before  his  death),  which 
was  being  vigorously  carried  out  by  his  son  Sir  John,  filled  the 
minds  of  many  of  the  original  settlers  with  vague  suspicions  and 
alarm.  For  the  most  part  they  were  descendants  of  sturdy  Palatines 
that  had  suffered  the  extremity  of  ill  for  conscience'  sake,  and  to 
whom  the  very  name  of  Papist  was  abominable.  For  once  Sir 
William  failed  to  fathom  the  intensity  of  their  religious  prejudice. 
Though  born  in  Ireland  and  bearing  an  Anglicised  name,  he  traced 
his  descent  in  the  direct  line  from  the  Mac  Ian  branch  of  the  Mac- 
Donalds  of  Glencoe.  A  feeling  of  kinship  prompted  him  to  enter 
into  a  correspondence  which  led  to  the  immigration  in  1773  of  the 
MacDonalds  of  Auchallader,  CoUachie,  Leek,  and  Scottus  in  Glen- 
garry, with  many  of  their  relatives  and  dependants,  forming  a  body 
of  more  than  600  persons. 

They  were  all  Roman  Catholics.  A  few  of  the  leaders  purchased 
land;  the  remainder  were  established  as  tenants  on  the  Johnson 
estates,  and  were  supplied  by  Sir  John  with  food,  cattle,  and  agri- 
cultural implements  valued  by  him  at  ^2000  during  the  next  two 
years.  To  the  peaceful  German  farmers  around  them  they  seemed 
a  rude,  fierce,  quarrelsome  race,  constantly  wearing  dirk  and  broad- 
sword, and  much  given  over  to  superstition  and  idolatrous  practices. 
Accordingly,  when  Sir  John  Johnson  fortified  the  hall  at  Johnstown 
and  surrounded  himself  with  a  body  of  Highland  Roman  Catholics 
for  its  defence,  they  could  not  have  appealed  to  the  inhabitants  in  a 
more  effective  way.  They  had  already  learned  to  dislike  the  High- 
landers, and  they  detested  their  religion. 

On  January  20,  1776,  Sir  John  and  about  three  hundred  of 
his  Scotch    Highlanders  surrendered  their  arms  to    General 


Accounts  of  the  Notorious  Butler  Family     231 

Schuyler,  aud  were  dismissed  with  assurance  of  protection 
while  they  remained  peaceable.  In  May,  1776,  they  and  their 
dependants  fled  to  Canada  with  Sir  John  and  settled  on  lands 
in  what  is  known  as  the  county  of  Glengarry  in  the  province 
of  Ontario,  named  after  their  home  in  Scotland.  Although 
some  of  these  Highlanders  returned  to  the  Mohawk  Valley 
with  Sir  John  Johnson's  Rangers  under  Captain  John  Mac- 
Donald  and  participated  in  the  battle  of  Oriskany  and  the 
raids  on  Cherry  Valley,  Wyoming,  and  the  skirmish  at  Johns- 
town, it  is  probable  that  none  of  them  or  their  descendants 
ever  remained  in  the  Mohawk  Valley. 

In  1737,  the  year  before  Sir  William  Johnson  made  his  ad- 
vent in  the  Mohawk  Valley,  it  was  proposed  to  people  the 
upper  Mohawk  Valley  with  Scotch  Highlanders.  Captain 
Campbell,  a  Highland  chief,  came  over  to  view  the  land 
offered,  which,  to  the  amount  of  thirty  thousand  acres,  it  is 
said,  Governor  Clark  promised  to  grant  free  of  charge,  except 
the  cost  of  survey  and  the  King's  quit-rent.  Satisfied  with 
the  land  and  the  assurances  given  him.  Captain  Campbell 
transported,  at  his  own  expense,  from  Scotland  more  than  four 
hundred  adults  with  their  children;  but  on  their  arrival  they 
were  prevented  by  the  intrigues  of  interested  of^ficers  from 
settling  on  the  tract  indicated,  and  after  suffering  many  hard- 
ships settled  in  and  about  Saratoga,  becoming  the  pioneers  in 
that  locality  as  the  Palatines  were  on  the  Mohawk.  On  No- 
vember 17,  1745,  France  and  England  being  at  war,  this 
Scotch  settlement  was  surprised  by  over  six  hundred  French 
and  Indians  and  completely  destroyed,  almost  the  whole  popu- 
lation being  killed  or  carried  into  captivity.  It  is  said  that 
thirty  families  were  massacred. 

The  settlement  of  Saratoga  mentioned  above  was  not 
located  on  the  site  of  the  Saratoga  of  the  present  day,  but  was 
situated  on  the  bank  of  the  Hudson  near  the  mouth  of  Fish 


2X2 


The  Mohawk  Valley 


Creek,  the  outlet  of  Saratoga  Lake.  The  surrender  of  Bur- 
goyne  also  took  place  on  the  plains  near  this  old  village  in 
1777.  This  post  was  established  about  1689,  while  it  is  said 
that  the  present  village  had  for  its  first  settler  Derick  Scow- 
ton,  who  built  the  first  log  cabin  in  1773. 

The  medicinal  properties  of  the  "  High  Rock"  spring  are 
said  to  have  been  known  to  the  Iroquois  at  the  period  of 
Jacques  Cartier's  visit  to  the  St.  Lawrence  in  1535.  It  is 
believed  that  Sir  William  Johnson  was  the  first  white  man  to 
visit  this  spring,  being  carried  there  by  the  Mohawks  on  a 
litter  in  1767.  It  is  said  that  the  name  Saratoga  (Mohawk 
Sa-rag-ho-go)  signifies  the  "place  of  herrings,"  "  which  form- 
erly passed  up  the  Hudson  and  Fish  Creek  into  Saratoga 
Lake."  This  I  hardly  think  is  true,  as  it  is  said  that  herrings 
do  not  run  up  rivers  the  same  as  the  shad  and  other  fish,  and 
that  they  are  always  found  in  salt  water. 

About  the  period  of  the  Revolution  many  Scots  came  to 
the  valley  of  the  Mohawk  and  settled  on  land  north  of  the 
present  city  of  Amsterdam  in  the  towns  of  Galway,  Perth, 
Broadalbin  (Breadalbane),  and  Johnstown.  Many  who  settled 
in  Perth  came  from  Breadalbane  and  gave  that  name  to  their 
new  home. 

It  seems  "  the  irony  of  fate  "  that  the  descendants  of  the 
three  principal  actors  in  one  of  the  most  tragic  events  in  the 
history  of  Scotland  should  choose  the  valley  of  the  Mohawk 
for  their  future  home, — the  MacDonalds  of  Glencoe,  the 
Campbells  of  Argyle,  the  clansmen  of  the  Earl  of  Breadal- 
bane, and,  in  later  years,  a  descendant  of  Sir  John  Dalrymple, 
the  Earl  of  Stairs,  in  the  person  of  Mrs.  Edward  Reid,  the 
godmother  of  the  writer.  The  following  story  of  the  massacre 
of  Glencoe  is  taken  from  Macaulay's  History  of  England  and 
the  Talcs  of  a  Grandfather  by  Sir  Walter  Scott: 

In  the  year  1690  all  of  Scotland  had  submitted  to  the  rule  of 


Accounts  of  the  Notorious  Butler  Family     233 

King  William  and  Queen  Mary  except  a  few  of  the  warlike  clans  of 
the  Highlands,  among  whom  were  the  Camerons,  Macleans,  Mac- 
Gregors,  and  Mac  Donalds.  The  duty  of  subjugating  the  above 
Highlanders  was  intrusted  to  the  Earl  of  Stairs  and  the  Earl  of 
Breadalbane  and  an  order  was  issued  requiring  the  clans  to  submit 
to  King  William  and  Queen  Mary,  and  offering  pardon  to  every  rebel 
who  on  or  before  the  thiriy-first  of  December,  1691,  should  swear 
to  live  peacefully  under  the  government  of  their  majesties.  It  was 
proclaimed  that  all  who  should  hold  out  after  that  day  would  be 
treated  as  enemies  and  traitors.  The  Highlanders  became  alarmed 
and  most  of  the  chiefs  and  clansmen  came  forward  and  gave  the 
pledge  demanded. 

In  the  mouth  of  a  ravine  situated  not  far  from  the  southern  shore 
of  Lochleven,  an  arm  of  the  sea  which  separates  Argyleshire  from 
Inverness-shire,  dwelt  the  MacDonalds  of  Glencoe,  whose  chief  was 
known  as  Maclan  of  the  MacDonalds,  one  of  the  fiercest  and  most 
rebellious  chiefs  of  the  mountains.  Near  his  house  were  two  or 
three  small  hamlets  inhabited  by  his  tribe,  the  whole  population  not 
exceeding  two  hundred  adults.  In  the  neighborhood  of  the  villages 
was  some  copsewood  and  a  little  pasture  land  while  the  hills  and 
crags  were  bleak  and  barren.  To  the  north  towered  the  peak  of 
Ben  Nevis,  and  somewhat  farther  to  the  east  flowed  the  Cona,  on 
whose  bank  in  the  third  century  was  born  the  poet  Ossian.  In  the 
Gaelic  tongue,  Glencoe  signifies  the  Glen  of  Weeping.  Mists  and 
storms  brood  over  it  through  the  greater  part  of  the  finest  summer 
and  even  in  the  brightest  sunshine  the  impression  is  sad  and  awful. 
The  path  lies  along  a  stream  which  issues  from  the  most  sullen  and 
gloomy  of  mountain  pools.  Huge  precipices  of  naked  stone  frown 
on  both  sides.  Even  in  July  streaks  of  snow  are  often  seen  in  the 
rifts  near  the  summits.  All  along  the  sides  of  the  crags,  heaps  of  ruin 
mark  the  headlong  paths  of  the  torrents.  Mile  after  mile  the  only 
sound  that  indicates  life  is  the  faint  cry  of  a  bird  of  prey  from  some 
stormbeaten  pinnacle  of  rock.  All  the  science  and  industry  of  a 
peaceful  age  can  extract  nothing  valuable  from  that  wilderness;  but 
in  an  age  of  violence  and  rapine,  the  wilderness  itself  was  valued 
on  account  of  the  shelter  it  afforded  to  the  plunderer  and  his  plunder. 
Nothing  could  be  more  natural  than  that  the  clan  to  which  this 
rugged  desert  belonged  should  have  been  noted  for  predatory 
habits.  Successive  governments  had  tried  to  punish  this  wild  race, 
but  to    no  purpose,    as  a  small   force  could  be  easily   resisted  or 


234  The  Mohawk  Valley 

eluded  by  men  familiar  with  every  cavern  and  every  outlet  of  the 
natural  fortress  in  which  they  had  been  born  and  bred.  It  is  said 
that  the  people  of  Glencoe  would  probably  have  been  less  trouble- 
some neighbors  if  they  had  lived  among  their  own  kindred.  They 
were  Papists  and  separated  from  every  other  branch  of  their  family 
and  almost  surrounded  by  hostile  tribes  and  were  impelled  by 
enmity  as  well  as  want  to  live  at  the  expense  of  the  Campbells  and 
Breadalbanes. 

When  the  thirty-first  of  December  arrived,  the  MacDonalds  of 
Glencoe  had  not  come  in,  but  on  that  day  Maclan  and  his  principal 
vassals  offered  to  take  the  oaths,  but  could  find  no  person  competent 
to  administer  them.  In  great  distress  he  set  out  over  the  mountain 
to  Inverary,  but  ov/ing  to  snow-storms  and  the  natural  obstructions 
of  the  route  he  was  not  able  to  present  himself  before  the  sheriff  of 
Inverary  until  the  sixth  of  January,  1692.  After  considerable  hesi- 
tation on  the  part  of  the  sheriff,  because  the  prescribed  time  had 
elapsed,  he  at  last  agreed  to  administer  the  oath,  and  issued  a 
certificate  which  was  transmitted  to  the  council  at  Edinburgh.  It 
is  charged  that  King  William  was  not  informed  that  Maclan  had 
taken  the  oath,  and  that  the  papers  were  suppressed  by  Argyle, 
Stair,  and  Breadalbane  for  the  purpose  of  destroying  their  enemy. 
The  king  was  induced  to  sign  the  following  order  to  the  commander 
of  the  forces  in  Scotland:  "As  for  Maclan  and  his  tribe,  if  they  can 
well  be  distinguished  from  the  other  Highlanders,  it  will  be  proper, 
for  the  vindication  of  public  justice,  to  extirpate  that  set  of  thieves." 

The  extirpation  planned  by  the  Earl  of  Stair  was  of  a  dif- 
ferent kind  from  that  intended  by  the  King.  Stair's  design 
was  to  "  butcher  the  whole  race  of  thieves,  the  whole  damn- 
able race."  The  pass  of  Rannach  must  be  secured.  The 
Laird  of  Weems  must  be  told  that  if  he  harbors  outlaws,  he 
does  so  at  his  peril.  Breadalbane  promised  to  cut  off  the  re- 
treat on  one  side,  MacCallum  More  on  another.  In  due  time 
a  strong  detachment  was  placed  in  command  of  Lieutenant- 
Colonel  Hamilton,  and  it  was  determined  that  the  Glencoe  men 
should  perish,  not  by  military  execution,  but  by  the  most  per- 
fidious and  dastardly  form  of  assassination. 

On  the   1st  of  February   120   men  of   Argyle's  regiment, 


Accounts  of  the  Notorious  Butler  Family     235 

commanded  by  Captain  Campbell,  marched  to  Glencoe. 
Campbell  was  one  of  the  few  men  who  were  likely  to  be 
trusted  by  the  MacDonalds,  as  his  niece  was  married  to  Alex- 
ander, the  second  son  of  Maclan.  At  the  sight  of  the  red- 
coats, John,  the  eldest  son  of  the  chief,  advanced  to  meet 
them  with  twenty  clansmen,  and  asked  what  the  visit  meant, 
and  was  told  that  the  soldiers  came  as  friends,  and  wanted 
nothing  but  quarters.  They  were  kindly  received,  and  were 
lodged  under  the  thatched  roofs  of  the  little  community. 
Provisions  were  liberally  supplied  ;  there  was  no  want  of  beef; 
nor  was  payment  demanded. 

During  twelve  days  the  soldiers  lived  familiarly  with  the 
people  of  the  glen,  waiting  for  the  time  agreed  upon  when 
Colonel  Hamilton,  Breadalbane,  and  others  would  have 
secured  all  the  passes  and  cut  off  all  chance  of  escape.  The 
officers  spent  much  of  their  time  with  old  Maclan  and  his 
family,  and  the  long  evenings  were  cheerfully  spent  with  the 
help  of  some  packs  of  cards  and  a  little  French  brandy.  Cap- 
tain Campbell  appeared  to  be  warmly  attached  to  his  niece 
and  her  husband,  and  came  every  day  to  their  house  to  take 
his  morning  draught,  and  all  the  while  observed  all  of  the 
avenues  of  escape  from  the  glen,  and  reported  the  result  to 
Colonel  Hamilton. 

Hamilton  fixed  five  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  the  13th  of 
February  for  the  deed,  as  he  hoped  to  arrive  at  Glencoe  before 
that  time  with  four  hundred  men  and  have  stopped  all  avenues 
of  escape  for  the  doomed  chief  and  his  clansmen.  But  at  five 
precisely  Captain  Campbell  was  to  fall  on  and  slay  every  Mac- 
Donald  under  seventy. 

The  night  was  rough  and  Hamilton  was  not  able  to  reach 
the  pass  on  time,  and  while  they  were  contending  with  wind 
and  snow  Campbell  was  supping  and  playing  cards  with  those 
he    meant    to    butcher    before    daybreak.       In    fact,    he    and 


236  The  Mohawk  Valley 

Lieutenant  Lindsay  had  engaged  themselves  to  dine  with  the 
old  chief  on  the  morrow. 


It  was  five  in  the  morning.  Hamilton  and  his  men  were  still 
some  miles  off  and  the  avenues  which  they  were  to  secure  were  open, 
but  the  orders  which  Campbell  had  received  were  precise,  and  he 
began  to  execute  them  at  the  little  village  where  he  himself  quartered. 

His  host  and  nine  other  MacDonalds  were  dragged  out  of  their 
beds,  bound  hand  and  foot,  and  murdered.  A  boy  twelve  years  old 
clung  round  the  Captain's  legs,  and  begged  hard  for  his  life,  but  a 
ruffian  named  Drummond  shot  the  child  dead.  At  another  house 
a  Highlander  was  up  early  that  morning  and  was  sitting  with  eight 
of  his  family  round  the  fire,  when  a  volley  of  musketry  laid  him  and 
seven  of  his  companions  dead  or  dying  on  the  floor.  His  brother, 
who  alone  escaped  unhurt,  called  to  Sergeant  Barbour,  wlio  com- 
manded the  slayers,  and  asked  as  a  favor  to  be  allowed  to  die  in  the 
open  air.  "  Well,"  said  the  sergeant,  "  I  will  do  you  the  favor  for 
the  sake  of  your  meat  which  I  have  eaten."  The  mountaineer, 
bold,  athletic,  and  favored  by  the  darkness,  came  forth,  rushed  on 
the  soldiers  who  were  levelling  their  pieces  at  him,  flung  his  plaid 
over  their  faces  and  was  gone  in  a  moment. 

Meanwhile  Lindsay  had  knocked  at  the  door  of  the  old  chief  and 
had  asked  admission  in  friendly  language.  The  door  was  opened. 
Maclan,  while  putting  on  his  clothes,  and  calling  to  his  servants  to 
bring  refreshments  for  his  visitors,  was  shot  through  the  head.  Two 
of  his  attendants  were  slain  with  him.  His  wife  was  already  up  and 
dressed  in  such  finery  as  the  princesses  of  the  rude  Highland  glens 
were  accustomed  to  wear.  The  assassin  pulled  off  her  clothes  and 
trinkets  and  tore  her  rings  from  her  fingers  with  his  teeth.  She  died 
on  the  following  day. 

Campbell  and  his  men  committed  the  error  of  dispatching  their 
hosts  with  firearms  instead  of  using  cold  steel.  The  peal  and  flash 
of  gun  after  gun  from  three  different  parts  of  the  valley  gave  notice 
at  once  that  murder  was  doing.  The  sons  of  the  old  chief  escaped, 
and  from  fifty  cottages  tlie  half-naked  men,  women,  and  children 
fled  under  cover  of  the  darkness  to  caverns  in  the  glen,  and  when 
Hamilton  arrived  in  broad  daylight  the  work  of  destruction,  as  he 
said,  had  not  been  half  performed.  Thirty-two  corpses  lay  wallow- 
ing m  blood  on  the  snow  before  the  doors;  one  or  two  women  and 
the  tiny  hand  of  an  infant,  lopped  off,  were  seen  among  the  heaps 


Accounts  of  the  Notorious  Butler  Eamily     239 

of  slain.  One  aged  MacDonald,  over  seventy,  was  found  alive, 
probably  too  infirm  to  fly.  Hamilton  murdered  the  old  man  in  cold 
blood.  The  hamlets  were  burned  and  the  troops  departed  driving 
away  with  them  over  a  thousand  head  of  cattle.  How  many  old 
men  and  delicate  women  and  children  perished  in  the  snow  of  the 
mountains  on  that  fearful  night  can  never  be  known;  probably  as 
many  as  were  slain  by  the  assassins. 

When  the  troops  had  retired,  the  MacDonalds  crept  out  of  the 
caverns  of  Glencoe,  ventured  back  to  the  spots  where  their  rude 
dwellings  had  been,  and  performed  some  rude  rites  of  sepulture  for 
their  murdered  kinsmen. 

Was  it  fate  or  retribution  that  brought  about  four  hundred 
of  the  kinsmen  of  these  murderers  to  the  valley  of  the  Mo- 
hawk a  half  a  century  later  ?  The  settlement  at  Saratoga  was 
composed  of  clansmen  of  the  Campbells,  and  in  1745  met  with 
precisely  the  same  fate  from  the  Canadian  Indians  that  they 
had  inflicted  upon  the  MacDonalds  of  Glencoe  in  1692. 


Chapter  XIV 
Legend  of  Mrs.    Ross 


'& 


A  PARALLEL  to  the  romance  of  the  early  h'fe  of  Sir 
William  Johnson  is  found  in  that  of  a  young  soldier 
who  died  at  Johnstown  during  the  Revolution, 
although  it  had  a  different  ending.  In  one  of  the 
suburbs  of  London,  in  1779,  lived  a  young  soldier  of  poor  but 
honest  parents,  by  the  name  of  Charles  Ross,  who  had  fallen 
in  love  with  a  beautiful  young  woman,  presumably  of  rich  but 
honest  parents,  who  objected  to  the  attentions  of  the  young 
man  to  their  daughter.  As  usual  in  such  cases,  opposition 
fanned  the  flames  of  affection  and  made  their  love  for  each 
other  more  fervent. 

About  this  time  the  regiment  to  which  the  young  man  be- 
longed was  hurriedly  ordered  to  Canada  to  assist  the  English 
troops  in  the  campaign  in  New  York  State;  but  young  Captain 
Ross  found  an  opportunity  to  visit  his  lady-love  before  sailing, 
at  which  tearful  interview  they  uttered  vows  of  mutual  and 
eternal  fidelity  to  each  other  with  a  promise  that  if  he  could 
not  come  to  her,  she  would  come  to  him,  and  together  make 
a  new  home  in  the  New  World. 

The  persecution  of  her  family,  who  desired  her  marriage  to 
an  elderly  man  of  their  choice,  brought  matters  to  a  climax 
sooner  than  expected  by  either  of  the  lovers,  and  made  it 
necessary  for  immediate  action  on  the  part  of  the  young  girl 
in  order  to  escape  being  forced  into  the  obnoxious  marriage. 
She  dissembled  as  best  she  could  in  order  to  gain  time  to  carry 

240 


Legend  of  Mrs.  Ross  241 

out  a  scheme  to  join  her  lover  in  America.  A  typical  English 
girl,  robust  and  resolute,  with  ample  funds  for  necessary  ac- 
cessories, she  purchased  an  outfit  of  men's  garments,  cut  off 
her  beautiful  auburn  hair,  and  secured  a  passage  on  a  mer- 
chant vessel  sailing  for  the  port  of  Quebec,  under  the  name  of 
Frank  Reade,  her  own  name  being  Frances.  Her  father  was 
a  surgeon  of  repute  with  large  practice.  When  yet  a  child 
she  had  evinced  great  interest  in  matters  pertaining  to  her 
father's  profession,  and  as  she  grew  older  was  frequently  his 
companion  in  delicate  surgical  operations  as  an  assistant ;  in 
fact,  she  was  frequently  called  upon  to  render  the  assistance 
that  the  trained  nurses  of  the  present  day  so  intelligently 
perform. 

Fate  was  kind  to  her,  in  so  much  that  she  was  able  to  elude 
the  vigilance  of  her  parents,  embark  on  the  ship  without  arous- 
ing suspicion,  and  in  due  time  she  found  herself  in  mid-ocean 
and  a  victim  of  vial-dc-nier  in  its  most  distressing  form.  The 
ship's  crew  consisted  of  the  usual  complement  of  rough  and 
profane  sailors,  and  a  kind-hearted  captain  with  his  young 
wife;  the  girl  being  the  only  passenger.  During  her  attack  of 
sea-sickness  the  captain  and  his  wife  were  assiduous  in  their  at- 
tentions to  their  young  passenger,  and  it  did  not  take  many 
days  for  the  wife  to  detect  the  sex  of  their  patient,  and  to 
confide  her  discovery  to  her  husband.  When  the  paroxysms  of 
the  disease  had  been  allayed  and  the  patient  was  convalescent, 
she  was  told  of  the  discovery  the  wife  had  made  and  assured 
by  the  captain  and  his  wife  that  if  she  would  confide  in  them 
her  confidence  would  not  be  betrayed.  Her  story  was  soon 
told,  and  the  remainder  of  the  long  voyage  with  its  storms  and 
its  calms  was  passed  in  comparative  comfort,  with  the  sym- 
pathy and  friendship  of  the  captain  and  his  kind-hearted  wife. 

Landing  at  Quebec,  Frank,  in  company  with  the  captain, 
called  on  the  commandant  of  the  citadel  in  order  to  ascertain 


242  The  Mohawk  Valley 


where  the  regiment  to  which  Captain  Ross  was  attached  was 
located,  and  was  informed  that  it  was  stationed  at  Montreal, 
had  been  engaged  in  active  service,  and  had  lost  many  of  its 
men  in  battle  and  through  sickness.  Her  anxiety  for  informa- 
tion about  Captain  Ross  nearly  betrayed  her  secret,  but  the 
presence  of  the  captain  of  the  ship  and  his  ready  wit  saved 
her  from  suspicion,  and  found  a  way  whereby  she  was  able  to 
take  passage  on  a  sloop  to  Montreal,  ostensibly  to  join  the 
regiment  there  as  a  recruit.  This  voyage  in  the  slow  sailing 
vessel  was  more  tedious  to  the  young  woman  than  the  long 
voyage  across  the  Atlantic,  and  she  was  heartily  glad  when  it 
was  over. 

Arriving  at  the  island  of  Montreal,  she  ascertained  that 
Captain  Ross  and  his  company  had  been  detailed  to  join  the 
rangers  under  Major  Ross  and  Lieutenant  Walter  N.  Butler 
at  Oswego,  preparatory  to  raiding  the  villages  of  the  Mohawk 
Valley,  the  objective  point  being  Johnstown,  N.  Y.,  the  re- 
cent home  of  the  family  of  Sir  John  Johnson.  The  detach- 
ment had  left  Montreal  but  a  few  days  before  by  the  way  of 
the  upper  St.  Lawrence  River  and  Lake  Ontario.  Somewhat 
disheartened  but  not  discouraged,  the  young  girl  determined 
to  follow  the  detachment  if  she  could  procure  a  guide  and 
means  of  transportation. 

After  due  inquiry  and  with  the  assistance  of  the  officer  of 
the  post,  a  Mohawk  brave,  familiar  with  the  Mohawk  Valley, 
was  found,  who  advised  going  by  the  Lake  Champlain  route 
instead  of  Oswego.  Procuring  a  Canadian  woodsman's  suit  of 
clothes,  consisting  of  a  fringed  buckskin  coat,  belted  at  the 
waist,  skin  trousers  and  leggings  and  a  stout  pair  of  moccasins, 
a  skin  cap,  and  hunting-knife  in  her  belt,  she  was  now  more 
effectually  disguised  than  while  wearing  the  tight-fitting 
civilian  suit  she  had  discarded,  and  which  had  brought  into 
prominence  the  shapely  limbs  of  the  wearer,  but  which  were 


Legend  of  Mrs.  Ross  243 

not  at  all  conspicuous  in  the  frontiersman  garb  she  had  chosen. 
After  a  delay  of  about  a  week,  a  suitable  birch-bark  canoe  was 
secured  and  stocked  with  provisions  for  the  long  and  lonely 
journey  to  the  Mohawks'  country. 

The  first  day  of  the  journey  was  occupied  in  floating  down 
the  rapid  current  of  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Richelieu  River,  the  outlet  of  Lake  Champlain  and  Lake 
George.  Turning  into  the  river  the  labor  of  the  journey  be- 
o-an,  as  every  foot  of  the  route  had  to  be  won  by  the  stroke  of 
the  paddle.  For  the  first  few  days  Frank  could  give  the  In- 
dian but  very  little  assistance  in  using  the  paddle,  but  by  per- 
sistent effort  she  was  finally  able  to  master  the  stroke  and 
contribute  her  share  toward  the  propulsion  of  their  frail  vessel. 
Two  weeks  were  occupied  in  ascending  the  two  lakes,  and  by 
the  time  they  reached  the  head  of  Lake  George,  she  was  very 
glad  to  leave  the  canoe  for  the  more  arduous  labor  of  packing 
their  provisions  over  the  trail  through  the  forest  to  Johnstown, 
sixty  miles  away.  Their  packs  were  not  very  heavy  as  their 
provisions  were  nearly  exhausted  in  their  voyage  up  the  lakes. 
Without  any  unnecessary  delay  the  canoe  was  hidden  on  the 
border  of  the  lake,  the  packs  adjusted,  and  after  a  momentary 
glance  at  the  sun  and  the  surrounding  mountains,  the  Mohawk 
plunged  into  the  interminable  forest  and  the  last  stage  of  their 
journey  began.  An  hour  brought  them  to  the  upper  Hudson, 
which  they  forded  at  the  Great  Falls  (Palmer's  Falls)  without 
difficulty.  They  were  now  in  the  enemy's  country,  which 
made  it  necessary  to  proceed  with  caution  in  order  to  avoid 
discovery  from  provincials  and  wandering  bands  of  Oneidas, 
as  their  appearance  would  have  attracted  critical  attention 
from  any  person  whom  they  might  meet. 

The  young  brave's  well-knit  form  was  clad  in  a  well-worn 
pair  of  deerskin  trousers,  fringed  and  discolored,  which  were 
belted   and   supported   by   a  wide  strip    of    buckskin    placed 


244  The  Mohawk  Valley 

diagonally  across  the  chest  and  back  and  over  the  right  shoul- 
der, leaving  the  balance  of  the  upper  part  of  the  body  bare. 
On  his  feet  and  half  way  to  the  knee  were  a  pair  of  moccasins, 
laced  with  strings  of  deerskin ;  his  head  bare  except  a  mass  of 
jet  black  hair  falling  to  his  shoulders  and  half  covering  his 
face.  In  his  hand  was  a  musket  and  in  his  belt  a  small  axe 
and  hunting-knife,  while  his  pack  was  held  to  his  back  by  a 
string  of  rawhide.  Following  in  his  footsteps  strode  Frank, 
whose  erect  form  and  elastic  step  were  but  another  evidence  of 
the  strength  and  vigor  that  shone  from  her  dark  blue  eyes  and 
flushed  cheeks.  The  constant  exposure  to  the  weather  during 
her  journey  of  three  thousand  miles  had  browned  her  skin  and 
hardened  the  muscles  of  her  face  and  form,  but  did  not  pre- 
vent the  flush  of  health  shining  through  the  dusky  skin  or  dim 
the  bright  eyes.  Her  garments  were  weather-stained  and  her 
hair  tangled  and  frowzy  from  neglect,  but  her  general  appear- 
ance was  that  of  a  hardy  boy  of  eighteen  or  twenty  years. 
Around  her  waist  but  under  her  buckskin  coat  was  a  broad 
belt  filled  with  the  open  sesame  of  many  people's  hearts — 
gold. 

The  trail  led  over  and  around  the  foothills  of  the  Adiron- 
dacks,  which  are  dignified  with  the  name  of  mountains  by  the 
tourists  of  to-day,  and  led  them  through  towering  forests  and 
tangled  underbrush,  sometimes  treading  with  noiseless  steps 
over  beds  of  the  needles  of  pine  and  tamarack,  or  toiling  over 
masses  of  rotten  trunk  and  spear-like  branches  ;  sometimes 
plunging  into  dark  and  damp  ravines  and  sinking  ankle-deep 
into  the  soggy  mould  ;  again  climbing  jagged  rocks  and  almost 
perpendicular  cliffs  to  some  barren  eminence  with  naught  but 
the  sky  above  and  the  October  foliage  of  the  forest  below, 
with  its  boundless  wealth  of  color,  extending  in  every  direc- 
tion until  it  was  lost  in  the  haze  of  the  distant  horizon.  Far 
away  to  the  west  is  seen  the    dim  outline  of    the    Mayfield 


Legend  of  Mrs.  Ross  245 

Mountains,  which  the  Mohawk  points  out  as  the  goal  to  which 
they  are  toiling,  and  in  the  freshness  of  her  vigor  she  urges 
him  on  until  nature  rebels  and  she  pleads  for  rest.  A  camp  is 
made,  their  simple  meal  prepared,  and  she  sinks  to  sleep  amid 
the  perfume  of  the  evergreen  boughs  that  constitute  her  bed, 
dreaming  again  of  the  loved  form  and  the  enfolding  arms  of 
her  absent  soldier.  Awake  with  the  dawn  with  muscles  tired 
and  stiff,  she  urges  the  Mohawk  in  his  preparation  for  the  day's 
trail.  This  day  they  leave  the  mountains  behind  them  and 
find  the  trail  well  beaten  and  over  comparatively  level  country, 
but  the  night  finds  her  worn  and  weary  and  the  morning  with- 
out energy.  The  succeeding  days  of  her  journey  are  unevent- 
ful, and  at  the  close  of  October  24th  they  camp  on  a  stream 
which  the  Mohawk  tells  her  flows  through  the  little  village 
they  are  seeking. 

Throwing  herself  on  the  green  turf  while  the  Mohawk  pre- 
pares their  evening  meal,  supplemented  with  some  speckled 
beauties  from  the  stream,  she  gives  herself  up  to  reverie  and 
longing  for  her  lover  captain.  Arousing  herself  she  becomes 
aware  that  the  Indian  is  gazing  fixedly  at  her,  and  as  her  eyes 
meet  he  says  in  a  low,  even  voice,  "  Is  the  captain  the  white 
maiden's  brother  or  lover  ?  "  With  pale  face  and  startled 
eyes  she  asks  him  what  he  means.  "  The  maiden  need  not 
fear,"  says  the  Mohawk;  "  her  secret  has  been  hidden  in  the 
breast  of  Onatassa  many  days,  even  since  she  killed  the  snake 
that  lay  in  her  path  at  the  island  camp  on  the  Horicon,  when 
she  poised  the  stone  over  her  shoulder  before  she  crushed  the 
reptile,  and  at  night  when  she  murmured  the  name  of  her 
lover  in  her  sleep." 

Why  did  you  not  tell  me  you  had  discovered  my  secret  ?  " 
demanded  Frank.  "  Onatassa's  eyes  were  open,  but  his  lips 
were  closed,"  sentiently  replied  the  Indian;  "  the  maiden  did 
not  want  to  be  known,  and  the  paleface  was  still  a  lad  to  him." 


246  The  Mohawk  Valley 

That  night  Frank  could  not  sleep,  but  tossed  restlessly  on  her 
bed  of  evergreens  until  dawn,  when  her  weary  eyes  closed  and 
tired  nature  demanded  relaxation  and  repose. 

The  sun  was  well  up  toward  the  zenith  when  she  awoke 
startled  and  bewildered  to  find  herself  alone.  After  her  morn- 
ing ablutions  in  the  stream  she  prepared  food  for  her  morning 
meal  and  waited  impatiently  for  the  return  of  Onatassa.  An 
hour,  two  hours  passed  before  his  active  form  was  seen  coming 
swiftly  through  the  forest.  While  she  slept  he  had  been  re- 
connoitring in  the  vicinity  of  Johnstown,  three  miles  away, 
and  reported  a  battle  in  progress  between  the  American  forces 
under  Colonel  Willett  and  the  British  under  Major  Ross,  and 
that  the  American  forces  had  been  repulsed.  Hurriedly  re- 
suming their  packs  the  twain  swiftly  approached  the  battle- 
field, the  girl  eager  and  anxious  as  she  drew  near  the  end  of 
her  three-thousand-mile  journey.  Soon  they  were  able  to 
hear  the  roar  of  musketry,  which,  as  they  paused  to  listen, 
seemed  to  come  nearer  and  nearer  to  them,  and  at  last  the 
forms  of  green-coated  soldiers  were  seen  apparently  in  retreat. 
Hastily  withdrawing  into  a  convenient  gorge,  a  place  of  con- 
cealment was  found  for  the  maiden,  and  Onatassa  advanced  in 
the  direction  of  the  firing,  which  was  apparently  growing  less 
and  less  in  a  westerly  direction. 

As  told  in  the  last  chapter,  in  the  account  of  the  battle  at 
Johnstown,  the  American  forces  under  Colonel  Willett  were 
repulsed  in  their  first  attack  and  retreated  to  St.  John's 
Church  in  the  centre  of  the  village.  Receiving  reinforce- 
ments, Colonel  Willett  rearranged  his  forces  and  again  ad- 
vanced to  the  attack,  and  after  a  stubborn  resistance  the 
British  troops  were  completely  routed  and  dispersed  through 
the  forest  to  the  west  in  the  direction  of  East  Canada  Creek. 

Captain  Charles  Ross  sought  in  vain  to  stem  the  tide  of 
battle,  and  his  company,  being  the  last  to  give  way,  formed  ihe 


Legend  of  Mrs.  Ross  247 

rear-guard  of  the  army,  which  was  more  or  less  annoyed  by 
small  bands  of  Oneidas,  While  passing  through  a  dense 
thicket  he  was  struck  in  the  chest  by  an  arrow.  Grasping  the 
shaft,  it  became  detached  from  the  barbed  flint,  but  with  that 
one  spasmodic  action  he  fell  unconscious  to  the  ground.  The 
retreating  army  hurried  on,  crossed  West  Canada  Creek,  where 
Lieutenant  Walter  N.  Butler  was  killed  by  the  Oneida,  and 
in  due  time  reached  Oswego,  leaving  their  dead  and  dying 
scattered  through  the  forest. 

Having  ascertained  part  of  the  above  facts,  but  knowing 
nothing  of  the  fate  of  Captain  Ross,  Onatassa  returned  to  the 
gorge  and  imparted  the  information  he  had  received  to  the 
maiden,  advising  that  as  the  forest  in  the  vicinity  was  being 
searched  by  the  Americans  in  order  to  render  succor  to  the 
wounded,  it  would  be  well  to  remain  concealed  until  the  fol- 
lowing morning,  and  then  by  a  wide  detour  to  the  north  to 
follow  the  trail  of  the  retreating  army.  Making  the  young 
girl  as  comfortable  as  possible  in  her  retreat,  he  again  disap- 
peared in  the  forest,  urged  on  by  the  desire  of  Frank  to  know 
the  fate  of  Captain  Charles.  After  twilight  the  Indian  re- 
turned and  reported  that  the  captain  was  with  his  command 
at  the  crossing  of  Garoga  Creek,  but  had  disappeared  before 
reaching  the  Guyohara  (East  Canada  Creek). 

How  long  will  it  take  to  reach  the  Garoga  ?"  asked 
Frank.  "  Six  hours,"  replied  the  Mohawk.  Strapping  her 
blanket  to  her  back,  but  discarding  all  else,  the  girl  grasped 
the  stout  stafT  that  had  been  her  support  over  the  trail  from 
Lake  George;  she  pointed  to  the  moon  near  the  zenith,  and 
said  to  Onatassa:  "  Lead  on  while  yet  there  is  light."  Mo- 
tionless, he  gazed  at  that  pale,  anxious  face,  glanced  at  the 
moon  over  his  head,  picked  up  his  rifle,  and  silently  strode  out 
of  the  ravine  with  the  young  girl  following  close  in  his  foot- 
steps.    Striking  the  well-defined  trail  that  led  to  the  village  of 


248  The  Mohawk  Valley 

Johnstown,  they  soon  left  the  gloom  of  the  forest  and  skirted 
along  the  cleared  lands  north  of  Johnson  Hall,  and  after  about 
an  hour's  travel  struck  the  trail  of  the  British  forces,  made  wide 
and  distinct  through  the  underbrush  by  the  frantic  efforts  of 
four  hundred  soldiers  eager  to  escape  from  the  vengeance  of 
the  conquering  Americans.  Near  dawn  they  reached  the 
Garoga  Creek,  which  was  crossed  without  difficulty.  About 
two  hundred  paces  from  the  creek  the  Mohawk  called  Frank's 
attention  to  the  fact  that  the  trail  narrowed  to  about  twenty 
feet  in  width,  showing  that  the  troops  were  marching  in  a  sem- 
blance of  order,  which  made  it  much  easier  for  the  searchers  to 
scan  every  foot  of  the  trail.  A  little  farther  on,  a  spot  of 
bright  color  was  dimly  seen  at  the  side  of  the  road,  which  upon 
examination  proved  to  be  the  dead  body  of  a  British  soldier 
wearing  the  uniform  of  the  9th  Regiment,  and  undoubtedly 
one  of  Captain  Ross's  command.  The  grewsome  sight  was 
repellent  to  the  womanly  nature  of  poor  Frank,  and  she  passed 
hurriedly  on,  only  to  be  startled  by  a  snapping,  snarling  howl 
in  the  forest  in  front  of  them.  Calling  to  herself  that  forti- 
tude which  had  been  her  support  throughout  all  this  weary 
journey,  she  examined  every  foot  of  the  trail,  eager  yet  fear- 
ful of  finding  that  which  she  sought. 

At  the  howl  of  the  wolf  Onatassa  shifted  his  rifle  and 
passed  quickly  ahead  to  a  point  where  the  underbrush  formed 
an  almost  impenetrable  thicket.  With  a  nervous  spasm  of 
fear,  Frank  clung  close  in  his  footsteps,  dreading  to  be  left 
alone  even  for  a  moment,  her  night's  weary  journey  remind- 
ing her  that  she  was  still  a  womanly  woman  despite  the  strange 
garb  that  she  wore. 

With  a  warning  motion  of  his  hand,  Onatassa  raised  his 
rifle  to  his  shoulder.  Standing  directly  behind  him,  Frank 
was  able  to  glance  along  the  barrel  of  the  rifle  into  the  blazing 
eyes  of  a  huge  gray  wolf  that  stood  with  one  foot  raised,  as 


Legend  of  Mrs.  Ross  249 

though  startled  by  the  footsteps  of  the  yet  unseen  Mohawk. 
The  sharp  crack  of  the  rifle  was  heard,  and  with  a  convulsive 
movement,  but  without  a  sound,  the  beast  dropped  dead 
where  he  stood.  As  Onatassa  pushed  his  way  through  the 
thicket  with  the  hunter's  instinct  to  gaze  on  his  prey,  Frank 
became  conscious  of  a  low  moan  at  her  left.  Her  nerves  now 
strung  to  the  highest  tension,  she  turned  to  flee  to  the  open 
trail,  but  the  cowardly  impulse  was  instantly  banished,  and 
she  advanced  through  the  thicket  in  the  direction  of  the 
sound,  only  to  again  shrink  from  the  apparently  dead  form  of 
another  British  soldier.  As  she  gazed,  a  convulsive  move- 
ment of  the  man,  probably  partially  aroused  from  stupor  by 
the  sharp  crack  of  the  rifle,  gave  evidence  that  life  was  not  ex- 
tinct. The  gray  light  of  dawn  and  the  gloom  of  the  forest 
barely  revealed  the  form  and  the  bright  color  of  the  garments 
of  the  soldier.  Crying,  "  Onatassa,"  she  hastened  forward  and 
removed  the  tall  grass  that  partially  covered  the  body,  and 
disclosed  the  pale  face  of  Captain  Ross.  Almost  paralyzed 
with  conflicting  emotions,  she  uttered  a  low  moan  as  she  sank 
to  the  ground  and  pressed  her  cheek  to  that  of  the  wounded 
officer.  Instantly  she  raised  herself  to  her  knees  with  her  hand 
stained  with  blood  from  the  wound  in  his  chest,  and  directed 
the  Mohawk  to  prepare  a  litter  for  the  removal  of  the  captain. 
Two  saplings  were  cut  the  proper  length,  and  while  the 
Mohawk  was  binding  them  together  with  crosspieces,  Frank 
cut  small  branches  of  cedar  as  a  covering  to  the  litter  and 
spread  her  blanket  in  such  a  way  that  it  could  be  wrapped 
around  the  wounded  man.  Placing  the  litter  on  the  ground, 
the  captain  was  gently  rolled  on  his  right  side,  the  litter  placed 
close  to  his  body,  and  then  as  gently  rolled  to  the  left  and  on 
to  the  rude  bed.  Quickly  lifting  the  same  it  was  borne  out  of 
the  thicket  and  into  the  sunlight  of  the  early  morning.  While 
Onatassa  brought  water  from  the   brook,   the  girl  bared  the 


250  The  Mohawk  Valley 

chest  of  the  captain  and  disclosed  a  flint  arrowhead  still  im- 
bedded in  an  inflamed  wound.  Directing  the  Indian  to  bathe 
his  face,  Frank  took  from  a  pouch  that  hung  from  her  side  a 
small  flask  of  brandy  and  a  flat  case  containing  a  surgeon's 
emergency  outfit,  which  she  had  procured  while  in  Montreal. 
Forcing  a  small  quantity  of  the  brandy  between  the  half-open 
lips,  she  watched  the  bared  throat,  and  was  grateful  to  see  a 
convulsive  movement  that  indicated  an  effort  made  to  swallow 
the  same.  More  brandy  followed,  and  the  pulse  began  to 
quicken.  Opening  the  case  and  selecting  a  needle  and  silk, 
she  bade  the  Indian  gently  remove  the  arrow  point.  A  little 
blood  followed,  which  was  quickly  washed  away,  and  the  wound 
bathed  with  diluted  brandy.  Glancing  at  the  Mohawk  she  ob- 
served him  looking  intently  at  the  arrow  point,  and  as  he 
caught  her  gaze  he  uttered  the  word  "  poison!  "  Without  a 
moment's  hesitation  she  applied  her  lips  to  the  wound  and 
drew  the  blood  therefrom.  This  operation  she  repeated  a 
number  of  times,  until  the  blood  ceased  to  flow.  Again  bath- 
ing the  wound,  she  deftly  sewed  the  lips  together  and  made 
further  attempts  to  revive  her  patient.  His  pulse  grew 
stronger,  a  little  color  returned  to  the  lips,  and  respiration  re- 
turned, but  he  still  remained  unconscious.  "  Is  there  a  house 
near  at  hand  ?  "  she  asked  of  the  Mohawk,  who  stood  near, 
immovably  watching  her  efforts.  "  A  hundred  paces  to  the 
east  is  the  log  cabin  of  the  father  of  Onatassa,  who  is  in 
Canada."  "  Let  us  go  there  quickly,"  said  Frank,  at  the 
same  time  taking  one  end  of  the  litter. 

The  captain  was  heavy  and  the  road  uneven,  but  they  soon 
reached  the  cabin  and  placed  the  rude  bed  on  the  floor.  With 
the  aid  of  more  boughs,  a  couple  of  bearskins  found  in  the 
cabin,  and  a  blanket,  a  comfortable  bed  was  made,  the  cap- 
tain's coat  and  heavy  military  boots  removed,  and  the  patient 
placed  thereon. 


Legend  of  Mrs.  Ross  251 

Under  the  patient  and  intelligent  care  of  the  young  girl  the 
captain  slowly  improved,  and  before  a  week  had  passed  he  re- 
gained consciousness,  but  failed  to  recognize  his  nurse  in  her 
strange  attire.  The  rifle  of  the  Mohawk  provided  venison, 
the  brook  fish,  and  a  trip  to  the  village  of  Johnstown  other 
necessities  for  the  household,  and  the  kindness  of  neighbor- 
ing settlers,  assistance  and  products  of  the  dairy. 

When  the  captain  had  so  far  recovered  as  to  be  able  to  pass 
part  of  the  day  in  the  bright  sunshine  outside  the  cabin,  the 
Mohawk  signified  his  intention  of  returning  to  Canada;  but 
before  he  departed,  Frank  requested  him  to  remain  in  the 
cabin  two  days  longer  while  she  went  to  the  village  to  transact 
some  business  which  she  said  could  not  be  put  off  any  longer. 
After  giving  specific  directions  to  Onatassa  for  the  care  of  the 
patient,  she  departed  on  her  long  tramp  to  Johnstown. 

The  cabin  of  Onatassa  was  situated  on  the  bank  of  the 
Garoga,  on  an  oblong  point  of  land  formed  by  two  ravines 
meeting,  and  was  selected  by  his  father  because  of  a  tradition 
that  this  point  was  the  location  of  one  of  the  earliest  palisaded 
villages  of  the  Agniers  (Mohawks)  when  they  were  driven  from 
their  old  home  on  the  island  of  Montreal  by  the  Hurons  and 
Algonquins,  just  previous  to  1600.  No  evidence  was  to  be 
seen,  however,  except  a  few  holes  that  marked  the  line  of  the 
stockade  and  a  few  mounds  of  black  earth  in  which  clam-shells 
and  broken  pottery  were  found.  From  this  point  the  trail  had 
become  a  wagon  road,  leading  through  the  forest ;  the  low 
swampy  spots  made  passable  for  the  rude  vehicles  by  logs  laid 
close  together,  forming  what  was  known  as  corduroy  road,  the 
road  sometimes  making  a  wide  detour  in  order  to  reach  ford- 
ing-places  across  the  str<iams. 

The  morning  that  Frank  left  the  cabin  of  Onatassa  was 
bright  and  clear,  with  a  suspicion  of  the  Indian  summer  in  the 
air.     Attired    in    her    woodsman's    suit,   the    Mohawk's    rifle 


252  The  Mohawk  Valley 

resting  on  her  shoulder,  for  protection  from  wild  beasts  which 
were  occasionally  seen  in  the  forests,  she  at  once  adopted  the 
long,  swinging  stride  that  she  had  learned  from  the  Indian  in 
their  long  tramp  through  the  wilderness.  In  perfect  health 
and  vigor,  and  with  the  thought  of  her  errand  uppermost  in 
her  mind,  she  made  the  journey  to  the  village  of  Johnstown 
in  safety,  and  put  up  at  the  tavern  that  had  been  kept  by  Gil- 
bert Tice,  on  William  Street.  In  a  former  visit  to  the  village 
during  the  illness  of  Captain  Ross,  she  left  an  order  with  the 
village  seamstress  for  some  woman's  underclothes,  but  not  be- 
ing able  to  procure  outer  garments  that  pleased  her,  she  had 
purchased  a  full  buckskin  suit,  finely  embroidered,  that  had 
formerly  belonged  to  a  Mohawk  maiden  of  about  her  height. 
Heretofore  she  had  been  able  to  conceal  her  identity  from  the 
captain,  but  the  announced  departure  of  Onatassa  for  Canada, 
and  her  maidenly  modesty,  urged  her  to  at  once  carry  out  a 
scheme  to  which  she  had  given  a  great  deal  of  thought, 
which  was,  to  resume  the  garments  of  her  sex  and  be  married 
to  her  lover,  that  she  might  have  the  right  to  remain  with  him, 
and  care  for  him  after  the  departure  of  the  Mohawk. 

After  partaking  of  food  at  the  tavern,  she  repaired  to  the 
home  of  Rev.  John  Urquhart,  missionary  to  the  chapel  at 
Fort  Hunter  and  St.  John's  Church,  Johnstown.  To  him  and 
his  wife  she  told  her  story,  and  also  requested  their  assistance 
in  the  necessary  preparations  for  the  marriage  ceremony, 
which  she  desired  to  have  take  place  the  next  day,  immediately 
on  her  return  to  the  cabin.  Arrangements  were  also  made  with 
the  landlord  for  rooms  at  the  tavern  until  such  time  as  suitable 
quarters  could  be  procured  elsewhere. 

The  clergyman  and  his  young  wife  entered  heartily  into  the 
scheme,  and  the  girl  returned  to  the  tavern  with  the  under- 
standing that  she  was  to  return  to  the  cabin  early  the  follow- 
ing morning,  and  that  the  clergyman  and  his  wife  and  the 


Legend  of  Mrs.  Ross  255 

daughter  of  the  landlord  should  follow  about  two  hours  later, 
in  order  that  she  could  have  time  to  make  the  necessary  ar- 
rangements before  their  arrival. 

The  next  morning's  dawn  found  Frank  busy  attiring 
herself,  as  far  as  possible,  in  garments  to  which  she  had  been  a 
stranger  for  many  weeks.  Making  a  bundle  of  those  she  could 
not  at  present  wear,  she  again  dressed  herself  in  her  woods- 
man's suit,  and,  after  a  hearty  breakfast,  procured  a  convey- 
ance, and  in  due  time  arrived  at  the  cabin.  After  the  usual 
morning  greetings  and  a  few  minutes'  care  of  her  patient,  she 
repaired  to  her  apartment,  which  was  one  corner  of  the  one 
large  room,  divided  by  a  curtain  made  of  blankets.  Donning 
a  silk  blouse,  belted  at  the  waist,  with  lace  at  the  neck  and 
sleeves,  the  short  buckskin  skirt  of  the  Indian  costume,  dark 
stockings,  and  a  pair  of  English  walking  boots,  she  stood  trem- 
bling and  blushing.  Her  short  auburn  hair,  wavy  and  rebel- 
lious, clustering  around  her  forehead,  her  dark  blue  eyes, 
brilliant  and  tender  at  the  thought  of  the  coming  meeting, 
knowing  that  in  face  and  form  she  was  a  beautiful  woman,  she 
still  delayed  drawing  the  curtain  that  should  disclose  to  her 
lover  the  woman  he  adored. 

The  captain  had  arisen  from  his  rude  chair  for  the  purpose 
of  going  out  into  the  bright  sunshine.  As  he  turned  his  back 
on  the  curtained  room  Frank  parted  the  blankets  and  took  a 
step  forward,  at  the  same  time  uttering  in  low,  tender  tones, 
surcharged  with  the  longings  of  a  heart  filled  with  the  re- 
pressed love  of  many  weeks,  "Charlie,  love!"  Turning 
quickly  at  the  sound,  he  beheld  a  vision  of  beauty  endowed 
with  "  nature's  charms  in  most  superb  profusion  "  standing 
with  outstretched  arms.  A  bewildered  expression  passed  over 
his  face,  and  he  raised  his  hand  to  his  forehead  as  though  he 
would  clear  the  mist  from  his  brain,  but  a  well-remembered 
motion  of  the  upraised  arm    and  the    love  light  in  her  dear 


256  The  Mohawk  Valley 

eyes  were  not  to  be  mistaken,  and  he  clasped  her  in  his  arms 
and  spoke  the  word  she  had  so  long  waited  for,  "  Sweetheart !  " 
Murmuring  between  his  kisses  and  caresses,  "  Oh,  my  love,  my 
darling,  my  sweetheart,"  she  led  him  to  his  chair  and  kneeled 
by  his  side,  while  in  answer  to  his  eager  questions  she  told  the 
story  of  her  long  journey  and  her  search  for  him  in  the  wilder- 
ness. The  sudden  darkening  of  the  doorway  attracting  their 
attention,  they  looked  up  to  behold  the  tall  form  of  Onatassa, 
whose  dark  eyes  gave  no  gleam  of  surprise  or  emotion.  "  The 
white  maiden's  friends  are  coming,"  he  said,  and  then  im- 
mediately retired.  And  then  Frank,  or  rather  Frances,  as  we 
will  now  call  her,  with  blushes  told  the  captain  of  her  journey 
to  Johnstown,  and  the  preparations  she  had  made  for  their 
im.rnediate  marriage  and  removal  to  the  village,  that  she  might 
be  with  him  always  and  care  for  him  as  his  wife.  She  told 
him  of  the  little  cottage  already  furnished  that  had  been 
hastily  vacated  by  a  family  of  Tories  who  had  fled  to  Canada 
with  Sir  John  Johnson,  which  only  awaited  his  inspection  to 
be  secured  as  their  future  home. 

By  this  time  the  clerical  party  had  approached  the  cabin, 
were  greeted  by  the  inmates,  and  as  comfortably  disposed  of 
as  the  limited  accommodations  of  the  cabin  would  permit. 
After  some  very  light  refreshments,  the  bride  being  already 
attired,  no  time  was  lost  in  the  final  preparations  for  the  mar- 
riage ceremony.  In  front  of  the  cabin,  which  faced  the  east, 
the  forest  had  been  cleared,  leaving  a  turf-covered  space  of 
gentle  declivity  to  the  creek  below.  Outside  of  the  weather- 
stained  log  house  Onatassa  was  busy  toasting  venison  steak  for 
their  midday  meal  before  a  wood  fire  built  under  the  shadow 
of  a  giant  pine.  Back  of  the  house  were  tethered  the  horses 
that  had  conveyed  the  party  from  the  village,  while  the  scat- 
tered trees  and  the  distant  forests  were  brilliant  with  the 
bright  livery  of  autumn. 


Legend  of  Mrs.  Ross  257 

On  the  green  sward  was  placed  the  captain's  rude  chair  in 
the  morning  sunlight.  Onatassa  was  called  from  his  duties, 
and  the  minister's  wife,  acting  as  master  of  ceremonies,  pro- 
ceeded to  arrange  the  bridal  party.  The  captain,  still  weak 
from  his  wound  and  the  extraordinary  excitement  of  the 
morning,  was  assisted  to  his  chair,  Frances  kneeling  at  his  side 
half  facing  him;  to  the  right  of  the  captain  stood  the  stalwart, 
half-naked  form  of  the  Mohawk,  hastily  decorated  with  paint 
and  feathers  for  the  occasion,  as  best  man,  and  to  the  left  the 
daughter  of  the  landlord;  in  front  the  clergyman  in  cassock 
and  cap,  with  the  ritual  of  the  Church  of  England  in  his  hand. 

With  solemn  voice  the  words  were  spoken  that  made  them 
man  and  wife,  and  with  feelings  of  mingled  joy  and  anxiety 
they  prepared  to  leave  the  rude  woodland  home  of  Onatassa. 
A  simple  meal  was  prepared  for  the  party,  and  the  captain 
gently  assisted  into  one  of  the  wagons.  The  parting  of 
Frances  and  the  captain  with  the  Mohawk  was  not  without 
emotion,  the  girl  lingering  to  the  last  to  express  her  gratitude 
for  his  care  and  consideration  for  her  in  their  long  journey 
through  the  wilderness  and  his  kindness  and  assiduity  during 
the  trying  season  of  the  captain's  illness.  The  expressions  of 
gratitude  seemed  more  acceptable  to  Onatassa  than  the  num- 
erous gold  pieces  that  the  girl  placed  in  his  hand. 

Already  prepared  for  his  return  to  Canada,  he  accompanied 
the  party  to  the  crossing  of  the  creek,  at  which  point  their 
path  divided.  The  Mohawk  came  to  the  side  of  the  wagon  as 
it  halted  at  the  trail,  and,  addressing  the  maiden,  said:  "  The 
paleface  maiden  is  happy  to-day.  May  sunshine  always 
brighten  her  life.  The  memory  of  her  bright  eyes  will 
illumine  the  path  of  Onatassa  in  his  journey  through  the 
forests."  Abruptly  turning,  he  swiftly  passed  along  the  trail 
without  a  backward  look,  out  of  sight  and  out  of  their  life. 
Their  journey  to  Johnstown  was   without  incident,  and  the 


258  The  Mohawk  Valley 

following  Sunday  found  them  happily    located  in  their  new- 
home,  where  we  will  leave  them. 

The  following  extract  is  taken  from  a  London  paper, 
printed  in  1785,  and  dated  Hammersmith,  England: 

Died,  at  Hammersmith,  Mrs.  Ross,  celebrated  for  her  beauty 
and  her  constancy.  Having  met  with  opposition  in  her  engagement 
with  Captain  Charles  Ross,  she  followed  him,  in  men's  clothes,  to 
America,  where,  after  such  a  research  and  fatigue  as  scarce  any  of 
her  sex  could  have  undergone,  she  found  him  in  the  woods,  lying 
for  dead  after  a  skirmish  with  the  Indians,  and  with  a  poisoned 
wound.  Having  previously  studied  surgery  in  England,  she,  with 
an  ardor  and  vigilance  which  only  such  a  passion  could  inspire, 
saved  his  life  by  sucking  his  wound.  During  this  time  she  had  re- 
mained unsuspected  by  him  until  his  recovery,  when,  as  soon  as  she 
found  a  clergyman  to  join  him  and  her  forever,  she  appeared  as 
herself,  the  priest  accompanying  her.  They  lived  for  a  space  of 
four  years  in  a  fondness  almost  ideal  to  the  present  age  of  corrup- 
tion, and  that  could  only  be  interrupted  by  her  declining  health  in 
consequence  of  the  poison  not  being  expelled  which  she  had  imbibed 
from  his  wound.  The  knowledge  he  had  of  it,  and  piercing  regret 
at  having  been  the  occasion,  affecting  him  still  more  sensibly,  he 
died  of  a  broken  heart  at  Johnstown,  N.  Y,  She  lived  to  return 
and  obtain  forgiveness  of  her  family,  and  died  in  consequence  of 
her  grief  and  affection,  at  the  age  of  twenty-six. 


Chapter  XV 
The  Joseph    Brant  of   Romance  and  of  Fact 

THE  late  A.  G.  Richmond,  of  Canajoliarie,  who  was 
curator  of  the  New  York  State  Museum  at  the  time 
of  his  death,  was  very  much  interested  in  the  early 
history  of  the  Indians  of  the  Mohawk  Valley,  and 
had  been  able  to  make  a  very  complete  and  valuable  collection 
of  Indian  relics.  He  acknowledged  that  it  was  his  hobby,  and 
his  private  correspondence  was  embellished  with  a  small  vig- 
nette, representing  an  old  woman  with  a  pointed  hat,  riding 
on  a  broom  stick,  with  the  legend,  "We  all  have  our 
hobby." 

From  the  frequent  recurrence  of  the  name  of  Sir  William 
Johnson  in  these  pages,  you  will  undoubtedly  infer  that  he  is 
my  hobby.  But  he  is  not,  except  incidentally;  for  the  hobby 
that  I  claim  or  acknowledge  is  the  early  history  of  the  Mohawk 
Valley  and  the  location  of  early  Indian  villages  east  of  Scho- 
harie River.  However,  as  my  avowed  object  is  to  place  on 
record  all  available  history  of  this  section  of  New  York,  the 
prominent  individuals  who  were  connected  with  its  early  his- 
tory must  necessarily  often  be  brought  forward. 

Perhaps  there  is  no  name  that  is  as  often  spoken  of  in  con- 
nection with  Sir  William  Johnson  and  his  family  as  the  name 
of  Brant,  Joseph  Brant.  During  the  Revolution,  from  1775 
to  1780,  Brant  and  his  Senecas  was  a  name  which  paled  the 
cheek  and  made  mothers  convulsively  clasp  their  helpless  in- 
fants, and  caused  many  a  strong  man's  muscles  to  grow  rigid 

-'59 


:6o 


The  Mohawk  Valley 


and    grasp,   with  anxious    look,   the  trusty  rifle  or  the    ever- 
present  hunting  knife  in  his  belt. 

In  Benson  J.  Lossing's  Field  Book  of  tJie  Revolution  we  find 
the  following  account  of  this  noted  Indian  warrior,  and  as 
other  records  seem  to  agree  with  it,  it  has  been  accepted  as, 
in  the  main,  correct: 

Joseph  Brant  (Thay-en-da-ne-gea)  was  a  Mohawk  of  pure  blood. 
His  father  was  a  chief  of  the  Onondaga  nation,  and  had  three  sons 

in  the  army  with  Sir  William 
Johnson,  under  the  great  Mo- 
hawk chief,  King  Hendrick, 
in  the  battle  of  Lake  George, 
in  1755.  Joseph,  his  young- 
est son,  whose  Indian  name, 
Thayendanegea,  signifies  "a 
bundle  of  sticks,"  or,  in  other 
words,"  strength,"  was  born  on 
the  bank  of  the  Ohio,  in  1742, 
whither  his  family  had  gone  on 
a  hunting  trip.  His  mother  re- 
turned to  Can-a-jor-hee  (In- 
dian Castle)  with  two  children, 
Mary  or  Molly,  and  Thayen- 
danegea. His  father,  Te-ho- 
wagh-wen-ga-ragh-kwin,  a  chief 
of  the  Wolf  clan  of  the  Mohawk, 
seems  to  have  died  in  the  Ohio 
country.  His  mother,  after 
her  return,  married  an  Indian  called  Car-ri-bo-go  (news  carrier) 
whom  the  whites  named  Barnet;  which  by  contraction  became  Barnt 
and  finally  Brant.  Thayendanegea  was  called  Joseph,  and  was 
known  as  Brant's  Joseph  or  Joseph  Brant. 

Sir  William  Johiison  sent  young  Brant  to  the  school  of  Dr. 
Wlieelock,  of  Lebanon,  Connecticut,  and  after  he  was  well  educated 
for  those  days,  employed  him  as  secretary  and  as  agent  in  public 
affairs.  He  was  employed  as  missionary  interpreter  from  1762  to 
1765,  and  exerted  himself  for  the  religious  instruction  of  his  tribe. 

Lossing's  explanation  of  the  manner  in  which  Thayenda- 


JOSEPH    BRANT    (THAYENDANEGEA) 


The  Joseph  Brant  of  Romance  and  of  Fact    261 

negea  got  the  name  of  Brant  is  quite  ingenious  and  may  be 
true,  but  the  name  "  Brandt,  a  Mohawk  Indian,"  appears  in  a 
conference  held  in  Albany,  in  August,  1700,  in  connection 
with  King  Hendrick,  and  again  in  an  Indian  deed,  also  in  con- 
nection with  King  Hendrick,  dated  July  10,  17 14,  which  con- 
veys land  that  was  formerly  the  site  of  the  old  Indian  village 
of  Caughnawaga. 

When  the  Revolution  broke  out  Joseph  Brant  attached 
himself  to  the  British  cause,  left  the  Mohawk  Valley,  went  to 
Canada,  and  in  1776  went  to  England,  where  his  education 
and  his  business  and  social  connection  with  Sir  William  John- 
son gave  him  free  access  to  the  nobility.  In  1786  he  again 
visited  England.  It  is  said  that  at  a  social  function  given  in 
his  honor,  he  attended  in  all  his  gorgeous  savage  apparel,  and 
was  the  centre  of  attraction.  During  the  evening  he  was  ap- 
proached by  the  Turkish  ambassador,  in  company  with  some 
ladies.  The  Turk,  thinking  him  a  savage,  took  hold  of  some 
portion  of  his  apparel  to  examine  it,  when  Brant  turned  upon 
him  in  anger,  at  the  same  time  uttering  a  hideous  war-whoop, 
which  so  frightened  the  Turk  that  he  fled  precipitately,  while 
many  of  the  company  ran  from  the  room  in  consternation. 
The  Earl  of  Warwick  caused  Romney,  the  eminent  painter, 
to  make  a  portrait  of  him  which  is  said  to  have  been  an  excel- 
lent likeness. 

In  1755,  at  the  age  of  thirteen,  he  was  with  the  Mohawks 
under  King  Hendrick  (then  a  very  old  man)  at  the  battle  of 
Lake  George,  in  the  fatal  ambush  at  Bloody  Pond.  He  con- 
fessed to  feeling  so  frightened  at  the  first  discharge  that  he 
clung  to  a  tree  for  support,  hardly  able  to  grasp  his  gun.  But 
this  feeling  soon  changed,  and  he  was  able  to  continue  the 
fight  bravely  and  with  calmness.  We  next  hear  of  him  at  the 
battle  of  Cedar  Rapids,  in  1775,  where  a  party  of  British  regu- 
lars and  Canadians    under  Foster,   and  five  hundred   Indians 


262  The  Mohawk  Valley 

under  the  command  of  Brant  attacked  a  small  fortress  de- 
fended by  390  Americans  under  Colonel  Bedell,  who,  with  but 
a  small  show  of  resistance,  surrendered  as  soon  as  Captain 
Foster  arrived.  Meanwhile  a  party  of  140  men  under  Major 
Henry  Sherburne  was  sent  by  Arnold  to  reinforce  the  garrison. 
These  were  ambushed,  and  after  a  brave  fight  of  an  hour  and 
a  half  they  surrendered.  Infuriated  by  the  obstinate  resist- 
ance of  the  Americans,  the  Indians  butchered  about  twenty  of 
their  number.  It  is  said  that  Brant  tried  to  restrain  the  In- 
dians in  their  fury,  but  was  unable  to  do  so,  although  he  was 
able  to  save  the  life  of  Captain  Mclnstry  after  preparations 
had  been  made  to  torture  him  by  fire. 

In  May,  1777,  it  is  recorded  in  Campbell's  Annals  of  Tryon 
County,  that  Brant  and  his  warriors  made  an  attempt  to  cut  off 
Cherry  Valley.  They  approached  from  the  east  side  and  recon- 
noitered  the  settlement  from  a  lofty  hill.  He  was  astonished 
■to  find  a  fortification  and  quite  a  large  and  well-armed  garri- 
son drilling  on  the  esplanade  in  front  of  Judge  Campbell's 
house.  Considering  it  inexpedient  to  attack  a  well-armed 
garrison  he  withdrew  and  the  little  village  was  saved  from  de- 
struction at  that  time.  Brant  had  been  deceived,  however,  in 
regard  to  the  efTectiveness  of  the  garrison,  as  the  well-armed 
soldiers  that  he  supposed  he  saw  from  the  high  hills  were  the 
boys  of  the  village  drilling  with  wooden  guns  and  swords.  But 
it  is  said  that  on  their  retreat  they  ambushed  two  ofificers,  one 
of  whom.  Lieutenant  Wormwood,  was  killed,  and  the  other 
captured.  Brant  rushed  from  his  concealment  and  scalped  the 
lieutenant  with  his  own  hands. 

In  the  same  year  Brant  was  at  Fort  Schuyler  in  command 
of  a  party  of  Senecas,  and  also  took  part  in  the  ambush  and 
battle  at  Oriskany.  Previous  to  this  he  and  his  warriors  joined 
Sir  John  Johnson  and  Colonel  John  Butler,  who  had  collected 
a  large  body  of  Tories  at  Oswego  preparatory  to  a  descent  on 


The  Joseph  Brant  of  Romance  and  of  Fact    265 

the  Mohawk  and  Schoharie  settlements.  There  Guy  Johnson 
summoned  a  grand  council  of  the  Six  Nations.  There  was  a 
pretty  full  attendance  at  the  council,  but  a  large  portion  of 
the  sachems  adhered  faithfully  to  a  covenant  of  neutrality 
made  with  General  Schuyler  at  German  Flats  in  the  spring  of 
1777. 

The  commissioner  represented  to  the  Indians  that  the  soldiers 
of  the  king  were  as  numerous  as  the  leaves  of  the  forest,  that  the 
rum  of  the  king  was  as  abundant  as  the  waters  of.  Lake  Ontario, 
and  that  if  the  Indians  would  become  his  allies  during  the  war  they 
should  never  want  goods  or  money.  Tawdry  articles,  such  as 
scarlet  cloths,  beads  and  trinkets  were  displayed  and  presented  to 
the  Indians,  which  pleased  them  greatly,  and  they  concluded  an 
alliance  by  binding  themselves  to  take  up  the  hatchet  against  the 
patriots  and  continue  their  warfare  until  they  were  subdued.  To 
each  man  was  then  presented  a  brass  kettle,  a  suit  of  clothes,  a  gun, 
a  tomahawk  and  scalping  knife,  a  piece  of  gold,  a  quantity  of 
ammunition,  and  a  promise  of  a  bounty  on  everv  scalp  he  should 
bring  in. 

Brant  was  thenceforth  the  acknowledged  head  of  the  Six 
Nations,  and  soon  after  commenced  his  terrible  career  in  the 
midst  of  the  Mohawk  and  Schoharie  valleys.  Sir  John  John- 
son, Guy  Johnson,  Colonel  John  Butler,  and  other  Tory 
commissioners  bought  the  savages,  placed  in  their  hands  in- 
struments of  death,  bargained  for  the  scalps  of  the  patriots 
and  inaugurated  deeds  of  horror  which  culminated  in  the  mas- 
sacres of  Wyoming,  Cherry  Valley,  Schoharie,  and  points  on 
the  Mohawk  River  extending  from  Indian  Castle  to  Warrens- 
bush  and  the  isolated  farms  lying  north  and  south  of  the  river. 

The  Oneidas  fought  with  the  patriots.  The  Indians  of 
the  lower  Mohawk  castle  were  not  particularly  active  against 
the  patriots,  but  the  Onondagas,  Cayugas,  and  particularly  the 
Senecas,  committed  many  an  act  of  horror  and  earned  their 
bounty  of  eight  dollars  for  each  scalp. 


266  The  Mohawk  Valley 

We  hear  again  of  Brant  in  1778,  when,  with  three  hundred 
Tories  and  one  hundred  and  fifty  Indians,  he  overran  the 
settlements  of  German  Flats,  when  dwellings  and  barns 
were  burned,  grain  destroyed,  and  stock  captured.  Neither 
scalps  nor  prisoners  were  secured,  as  the  settlers  took  refuge  in 
Forts  Dayton  and  Herkimer,  "  and  the  old  stone  church  of 
German  Flats,  which  had  been  built  under  the  auspices  and  by 
the  liberal  contributions  of  Sir  William  Johnson."  It  was 
during  the  spring  of  this  year  that  Brant  destroyed  Springfield 
at  the  head  of  Otsego  Lake.  It  is  said  that  every  house  was 
burned  except  one  into  which  the  women  and  children  were 
gathered  and  kept  unharmed.  Lossing  says:  "  The  absence 
of  Tories  in  that  expedition,  and  the  freedom  to  act  as  he 
pleased  on  the  part  of  Brant,  may  account  for  this  act  of 
humanity."  The  story  of  Cherry  Valley  and  Wyoming  has 
been  told  in  previous  chapters.  Brant  was  with  Walter 
N.  Butler  at  Cherry  Valley,  but  has  been  wTongfully  accused 
of  atrocities  at  Wyoming,  as  the  Senecas  at  the  massacre  were 
under  a  chief  called  Gi-en-gwa-tah,  and  Captain  Brant  was 
many  miles  away. 

Brant  and  his  Senecas  were  at  the  battle  of  Co-ne-wa-wah 
(now  Elmira)  between  General  Sullivan's  army  and  Tories  and 
Indians  under  command  of  Sir  John  Johnson.  The  patriots 
were  victorious.  The  record  says:  "  Brant,  perceiving  that 
all  was  lost,  raised  the  loud  retreating  cry,  '  Oonah !  Oonah !  ' 
and  savages  and  Tories,  in  great  confusion,  abandoned  their 
works  and  fled  across  the  river,  pursued  by  the  victors."  This 
battle  is  known  as  the  battle  of  Chemung.  It  is  said  that  the 
victors  killed  and  scalped  eight  of  the  Indians  in  the  pursuit. 
In  April,  1780,  Brant  and  his  Indians  and  Sir  John  Johnson 
and  the  Tories,  destroyed  Harpersfield  and  settlements  in 
Schoharie.  It  was  during  this  year  that  Little  Falls,  Canajo- 
harie,    and    Fort    Plain    were   destroyed.      At    the    battle    of 


The  Joseph  Brant  of  Romance  and  of  Fact    267 

Klocks  Field,  during  the  raid  of  the  Mohawk  Valley  in  Octo- 
ber, 1780,  the  patriots  were  victorious.  Brant  was  wounded 
in  the  heel,  but  escaped. 

Johnson  fled  toward  Onondaga  Lake,  where  his  boats  had 
been  concealed. 

When  Gen.  Van  Rensselaer  heard  of  the  concealment  of  the 
boats  at  that  point,  he  dispatched  a  messenger  to  Captain  Vrooman, 
then  in  command  at  Fort  Schuyler,  ordering  him  to  go  with  a  strong 
detachment  and  destroy  them.  Vrooman  instantly  obeyed.  One 
of  his  men  feigned  sickness  at  Oneida,  and  was  left  behind.  He 
was  there  when  Johnson  arrived,  and  informed  him  of  Vrooman's 
expedition.  Brant  and  a  body  of  Indians  hastened  forward,  came 
upon  Vrooman  and  his  party  while  at  dinner,  and  captured  the 
whole  of  them  without  firing  a  gun.  Johnson  had  no  further  im- 
pediments in  his  way  and  easily  escaped  to  Canada  by  way  of 
Oswego,  taking  with  him  Captain  Vrooman  and  his  party  prisoners, 
but  leaving  behind  him  a  great  number  of  his  own  men,  and  Tryon 
county  enjoyed  comparative  repose  through  the  remainder  of  the 
autumn  and  part  of  the  winter. 

In  January,  1781,  Brant  was  again  on  the  war-path  in  the 
vicinity  of  Fort  Schuyler.  The  slender  barrier  of  the  Oneida 
nation  had  been  broken  the  previous  year  by  driving  that 
people  upon  the  white  settlements,  and  the  warriors  from 
Niagara  had  an  unimpeded  way  to  the  Mohawk  Valley.  They 
were  separated  into  small  parties,  annoying  the  settlements 
and  occasionally  capturing  supplies.  Some  of  these  pene- 
trated as  far  as  Schenectady,  probably  to  engage  the  Oneidas, 
who  were  located  there  at  that  time.  In  September  of  this 
year  Brant  was  in  the  region  now  the  State  of  Ohio,  also  in 
Kentucky,  and,  together  with  McKee  and  a  party  of  Rangers, 
advanced  on  Boone's  Fort  and  ambushed  a  party  of  horsemen, 
most  of  whom  were  killed  or  captured.  This  probably  ac- 
counts for  the  fact  that  no  mention  is  made  of  Brant's  being 
present  in  the  last  raid  through  the  Mohawk  Valley,  and  final 
dispersion  of  the  Rangers  at  the  battle  of  Johnstown. 


268  The  Mohawk  Valley 

Here  I  would  like  to  introduce  an  account  of  the  raid  of 
Ross  and  Walter  N.  Butler  in  October,  1781,  taken  from  an 
English  report.  Governor  Haldiman  at  that  time  organized  a 
second  expedition  to  destroy  the  remaining  settlements  in  the 
Mohawk  Valley.  Sir  John  Johnson  was  sent  by  the  way  of 
Crown  Point  in  order  to  strike  the  valley  from  the  east. 
Major  Ross  was  to  advance  from  Niagara  by  the  way  of 
Oswego, 

A  violent  gale  prevented  the  detachments  from  Niagara  from 
reaching  Oswego  until  Oct.  9  (1781).  On  the  17th  Major  Ross  left 
his  boats  with  a  guard,  in  a  creek  falling  into  Lake  Oneida,  and 
marched  toward  Otsego  Lake.  During  the  march  several  prisoners 
were  brought  in  from  whom  it  was  learned  that  Sir  John  Johnson 
had  appeared  at  Crown  Point,  but  that  their  own  movements  were 
as  yet  undiscovered.  On  the  23d  they  passed  through  Cherry  Valley, 
and  on  the  evening  of  the  following  day  reached  Currytown.  Owing 
to  the  roundabout  way  they  had  taken  their  appearance  was  as  un- 
expected as  though  they  had  sprung  from  the  earth.  As  they 
hurried  toward  the  Mohawk  they  took  a  few  prisoners,  who  stated 
that  there  were  a  thousand  men  assembled  at  Schenectady,  five 
hundred  at  Schoharie,  and  that  Col.  Willett  was  at  Canajoharie 
with  four  hundred  more.  Duanesburg  or  Warrensbush  (their 
objective  point),  lying  centrally  between  these  two  garrisons,  was 
deemed  perfectly  safe  from  attack.  Major  Ross  perceived  that  he 
had  no  time  to  lose,  as  in  a  few  hours  his  presence  would  be  known 
at  all  these  places.  And  although  his  men  were  already  fatigued 
by  eight  days  of  steady  marching  in  very  bad  weather,  and  much  of 
the  time  ankle  deep  in  mud,  he  marched  all  night  through  incessant 
rain  and  over  fourteen  miles  of  the  worst  possible  roads.  His  men 
struggled  gallantly  to  keep  together,  and  not  more  than  a  dozen  fell 
behind,  worn  out  by  fatigue,  and  were  abandoned  to  the  tender 
mercies  of  the  enemy.  At  three  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  25th 
they  forded  the  Schoharie,  within  gunshot  of  Fort  Hunter,  and  two 
hours  later  halted  near  Warrensbush  (fifth  ward,  Amsterdam), 
Avhere  they  were  allowed  to  rest  on  their  arms  until  daybreak. 
The  rangers  and  Lidians  were  detailed  to  destroy  the  settlement, 
which,  was  seven  (?)  miles  in  length,  while  the  remainder  of  the 
troops  moved  along  the  main  road  to  support  them.     They  found 


The  Joseph  Brant  of  Romance  and  of  Fact    271 

the  place  totally  deserted,  for  the  inhabitants  had  fled  during  the 
night.  By  ten  o'clock  they  had  advanced  within  twelve  miles  of 
Schenectady,  and  every  building  in  sight  was  in  flames,  including 
three  mills  and  a  large  public  magazine. 

Ross  then  wheeled  about  and  marched  swiftly  up  the  Mohawk, 
which  he  forded  with  much  difficulty,  as  the  river  was  swollen  by 
the  rain.  A  small  party  sallied  from  Fort  Johnson  to  dispute  their 
passage,  but  the  officer  in  command  was  killed  at  the  first  fire  and 
his  men  dispersed.  The  militia  began  to  gather  behind  him,  and 
Ross  determined  to  retreat  directly  through  the  woods  instead  of 
attempting  to  return  to  his  boats  at  Oneida  Lake.  Marching  through 
the  woods  to  Johnstown  he  halted  in  the  fields  near  Johnson  Hall. 

There  Colonel  Willett  found  him  and  gave  battle,  which 
resulted  in  driving  Ross  and  his  Rangers  and  Indians  into  the 
forest,  as  told  in  the  account  of  the  battle  of  Johnstown  in  a 
previous  chapter. 

Although  most  of  the  raids  in  which  Brant  participated 
were  in  the  Mohawk  Valley  and  the  West,  there  is  an  account 
of  one  as  far  east  and  south  as  Minisink,  in  Orange  County, 
N.  Y.  The  story  is  only  a  repetition  of  many  of  the  horrors 
that  were  perpetrated  by  the  Indians  and  Tories  during  the 
Revolution.  It  was  in  1779,  and  this  border  settlement  had 
been  left  unprotected  by  the  withdrawal  of  Count  Pulaski  and 
his  cavalry,  who  had  been  ordered  to  South  Carolina.  During 
the  night,  Brant,  at  the  head  of  sixty  Indians  and  twenty- 
seven  Tories,  stole  on  the  little  town  and  fired  several  dwell- 
ings. A  small  stockade  fort,  a  mill,  and  twelve  houses  and 
barns  were  burned,  and  a  number  of  persons  killed  and  taken 
prisoners.  The  next  day  there  was  a  gathering  of  many  vol- 
unteers, and  soon  159  hardy  men  were  clamoring  to  be  led 
against  the  enemy.  Colonel  Tusten,  who  knew  the  prowess 
of  Brant,  opposed  marching  against  a  large  body  of  the  enemy 
with  so  small  a  force.  But  the  debate  was  cut  short  by  Major 
Meeker  mounting  his  horse,  flourishing  his  sword,  and  shout- 
ing: "  Let  the  brave  men  follow  me;  the  cowards  may  stay 


2  72  The  Mohawk  Valley 

behind."  These  words  aroused  the  assembly,  and  the  line  of 
march  was  immediately  formed.  There  was  the  oft-repeated 
ambush,  the  fierce  fight  at  close  quarters,  the  exhaustion  of 
ammunition,  massacre,  and  only  thirty  of  the  brave  men  re- 
turned to  tell  the  tale. 

It  is  said  that  during  the  battle  Major  Wood  made  a  Ma- 
sonic sign,  by  accident,  which  Brant,  being  a  Free  Mason, 
recognized  and  heeded,  and  his  life  was  spared  and  he  was 
kindly  treated,  until  the  Mohawk  chief  perceived  he  was  not 
a  Mason.  After  that  Brant  treated  him  with  contempt, 
although  he  was  afterward  released  and  joined  the  fraternity 
by  whose  instrumentality  his  life  was  saved. 

Many  tales  are  told  of  Brant's  savage  cruelty,  and  he  is 
often  spoken  of  as  a  monster;  but  in  almost  every  instance 
of  horrible,  bloodthirsty  Indian  atrocity  the  red  men  were 
accompanied  by  armed  Tories,  who  assisted  them  in  massa- 
cres, while  Brant  made  every  effort  to  restrain  their  savage 
instincts. 

From  early  boyhood  he  was  a  companion  of  the  whites, 
and  in  his  early  manhood  was  an  assistant  of  Sir  William 
Johnson.  By  birth  he  was  a  savage,  but  by  education  a  white 
man.  It  is  hard  to  believe  that  a  man  who  had  been  cared  for 
by  Sir  William  as  though  he  had  been  his  own  son,  and  wha 
had  learned  from  him  the  virtues  of  generosity  and  concilia- 
tion, a  man  who  had  been  placed  in  contact  with  the  eminent 
white  men  of  that  period  in  business  matters,  one  who  was  a 
friend  of  Dominies  Stuart,  Urquhart,  and  Kirkland,  and  as- 
sisted them  in  the  translation  of  portions  of  the  Gospel  and 
Prayer  Book  into  Mohawk,  and  exerted  himself  in  many  ways 
for  the  spiritual  welfare  of  his  people,  could  degenerate  into 
the  savage  that  early  historians  have  pictured  him.  The  Scot- 
tish poet,  Thomas  Campbell,  makes  the  Oneida  say,  in  Ger- 
trude of  Wyoming  : 


The  Joseph  Brant  of  Romance  and  of  Fact    273 

This  is  no  time  to  fill  the  joyous  cup; 

The  mammoth  comes — the  foe — the  monster  Brant, 

With  all  his  howling,  desolating  band. 

Scorning  to  wield  the  hatchet  for  his  bribe, 
'Gainst  Brant  himself  I  went  to  battle  forth, — 
Accursed  Brant. 

Brant  was  not  at  Wyoming,  but  many  miles  distant,  and 
although  Campbell  wrote  to  Brant's  son  John  a  letter  of 
apology  and  regret,  his  poems  are  still  published  with  that 
damning  falsehood. 

The  bribe  came  from  the  British  through  Sir  John  and  Guy 
Johnson,  in  the  bounty  of  eight  dollars  for  every  scalp,  and 
was  the  incentive  for  the  murder  of  many  helpless  men, 
women,  and  children  that  Brant  was  powerless  to  prevent. 

The  battle  of  Minisink  was  not  a  massacre  but  the  exter- 
mination of  a  body  of  brave,  stubborn  colonists,  who  chose  to 
die  rather  than  surrender,  although  Brant  offered  good  treat- 
ment if  they  would  lay  down  their  arms,  but  warned  them  of 
the  fierceness  of  the  thirst  for  blood  that  actuated  his  warriors. 

After  the  peace  of  1783  he  visited  England,  and  on  return- 
ing to  America  devoted  himself  to  the  social  and  religious  im- 
provement of  the  Mohawks,  who  were  settled  at  Grand  River, 
Brant  County,  Canada,  and  on  the  Bay  of  Quinte. 

To  Brant  was  intrusted  the  care  of  the  silver  communion 
set  given  to  the  Mohawks  by  Queen  Anne  in  1712  for  use 
in  Queen  Anne's  Chapel  at  Fort  Hunter.  Since  that  time 
its  care  has  been  transmitted  to  successive  members  of  his 
family.  In  1898  I  met  the  great-granddaughter  of  Joseph 
Brant  in  company  with  about  forty  members  of  the  Iroquois, 
who  were  in  Albany  to  deposit  some  valuable  wampum 
belts  in  the  New  York  State  Museum.  Her  name  was 
Mrs.  John  Loft,  and  the  babe  at  her  breast  was  the  great- 
great-grandson    of    Joseph    Brant.       Brant    held    a   colonel's 


2  74  The  Mohawk  Valley 

commission  in  the  English  army,  but  he  is  generally  known  as 
Captain  Brant.  He  died  at  his  residence  at  the  head  of  Lake 
Ontario,  November  24,  1807,  at  the  age  of  sixty-five  years. 

As  the  name  of  Fort  Schuyler  appears  frequently  in  these 
pages,  it  may  be  of  interest  to  state  where  it  was  situated.  I 
will  begin  by  saying  that  there  were  two  Fort  Schuylers  in 
western  and  one  in  northern  New  York.  During  the  last 
French  war,  as  it  was  called,  a  number  of  forts  were  built 
along  the  Mohawk  Valley  between  1755  and  1758.  In  1758  a 
fort  was  constructed  where  the  city  of  Utica  now  stands,  and 
named  Fort  Schuyler,  for  General  Peter  Schuyler. 

Previous  to  17 10  a  fort  was  erected  on  the  site  of  Fort 
Ann,  and  named  Fort  Peter  Schuyler,  which  was  destroyed  at 
that  date  by  Colonel  Schuyler,  as  it  was  thought  worthless 
unless  garrisoned. 

The  Fort  Schuyler  at  Utica  had  been  allowed  to  decay, 
and  in  1777  was  only  a  fortress  in  ruins. 

At  the  same  date  that  the  Utica  fort  was  built  (1758)  a  fort 
was  erected  at  Rome,  N.  Y.,  and  named  Fort  Stanwix.  In 
1776  it  was  repaired  and  named  Fort  Schuyler,  in  honor  of 
General  Philip  Schuyler,  of  Revolutionary  fame. 

In  1 78 1  this  fort,  noted  for  its  connection  with  the  battle 
of  Oriskany,  was  destroyed  by  fire  and  flood,  and  never  rebuilt. 


Chapter  XVI 

Incidents  Relating  to  the  Early  History  of  Amsterdam 
and  the  Mohawk  Valley 

IN  1609  Henry  Hudson,  an  Englishman,  discovered  the 
East  and  North  rivers,  the  latter  of  which  he  ascended 
in  his  boat  to  Aurania,  now  Albany,  and  soon  after  sold 
his  right  privately  to  the  Dutch  West  India  Company. 
In  1614  the  States-General  of  Holland  erected  a  fort  at  Albany 
and  called  it  Fort  Orange.  In  1663-64  the  colony  was  sub- 
dued by  the  English,  and  became  known  as  the  colony  of  New 
York.  Albany  was  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1686.  Albany 
County  at  that  time  comprised  all  of  the  land  north  as  far  as 
Canada  and  all  of  the  lands  west. 

At  this  time  the  present  State  of  New  York  was  possessed 
by  the  Iroquois  and  Canada  by  the  Algonquins,  the  rivals  of 
the  Six  Nations,  Up  to  the  burning  of  Schenectady  in  1690 
that  village  was  the  frontier  settlement  in  the  west,  its  neigh- 
bors being  Fort  Orange  on  the  east,  fifteen  miles  away,  and 
Tiononderoga,  a  Mohawk  Indian  village,  on  the  west,  now 
Fort  Hunter. 

About  1710  Ihe  German  Palatines  and  some  Holland  Dutch 
from  Schenectady  settled  along  the  Mohawk  River,  but  located 
in  every  instance  except  one  on  the  south  side.  This  excep- 
tion was  one  Geraldus  Camfort,  who  secured  a  small  grant  of 
twenty  acres  in  what  is  now  the  town  of  Amsterdam,  on  April 
22,  1703. 

On  November  2,  1708,  the  notorious  Kayaderosseras  Patent 

275 


2/6  The  Mohawk  Valley 

was  given  to  Naning  Heermanse  and  twelve  others,  conveying 
about  700,000  acres  which  included  all  of  the  land  in  the 
present  town  of  Amsterdam  east  of  Guy  Park  through 
Perth,  Broadalbin,  and  part  of  what  is  now  Saratoga  County. 
This  grant  was  evidently  fraudulent,  as  the  Mohawks  were 
told  that  they  were  only  granting  enough  land  for  one  or  two 
farms,  whereas  it  embraced  land  five  times  greater  than  that 
of  Manhattan  Island.  As  soon  as  this  great  fraud  was  dis- 
covered by  the  Indians  they  protested  against  it  and  resisted 
every  attempt  to  settle  on  it.  The  patentees,  as  soon 
as  they  discovered  how  furious  the  Indians  were  at  the 
deceit  that  would  deprive  them  of  such  a  large  tract  of  their 
hunting-grounds,  desisted  from  all  attempts  to  settle  or  sell 
any  of  this  tract  for  a  great  number  of  years,  hoping  that  in 
time  the  Indians  would  be  driven  from  the  valley  and  leave 
them  in  possession  of  their  ill-gotten  wealth. 

During  Sir  William  Johnson's  residence  at  Fort  Johnson  he 
espoused  the  cause  of  the  Indians  in  their  desire  to  have  this 
patent  annulled.  After  a  number  of  years  he  succeeded  in 
having  this  grant  reduced  to  about  23,000  acres,  which 
embraced  the  land  in  what  is  now  known  as  the  town  of  Am- 
sterdam, east  of  Guy  Park,  and  the  town  of  Perth.  Un- 
doubtedly the  contest  over  this  patent  and  the  attendant 
hostility  of  the  Mohawks  retarded  settlements  in  Amsterdam 
for  more  than  half  a  century,  and  the  fact  that  Sir  William 
could  not  procure  lands  near  his  estate  at  Fort  Johnson  on  ac- 
count of  the  Kayaderosseras  grant  was  probably  the  reason 
that  he  concluded  to  build  the  town  of  Johnstown  on  lands  he 
owned  in  that  vicinity,  instead  of  in  the  valley. 

In  1788  all  of  the  land  in  Montgomery  County  north  of  the 
Mohawk  River  was  called  Caughnawaga.  Previous  to  that 
time  this  district  and  the  land  on  the  south  side  was  called 
Mohawk.     In    1793   this  town  was  divided  into  the  towns  of 


Early  History  of  Amsterdam  279 

Caughnawaga,  or  Fonda,  Amsterdam,  Broadalbin,  Mayfield, 
and  Johnstown.  In  1810  old  Montgomery  County  was  the 
largest  county  in  the  State,  its  area  being  at  that  time  1,767,- 
680  acres. 

Up  to  1772,  what  is  now  Montgomery  County  was  part  of 
Albany  County.  In  1691  there  were  but  nine  counties  in  the 
State,  and  Albany  included  all  north  of  Ulster  and  Dutchess. 
An  attempt  was  made  to  divide  this  county  in  1769,  but  failed. 
A  second  petition  was  sent  to  the  Assembly  by  Sir  William 
Johnson  in  1772,  and  a  new  county  was  formed  called  Tryon 
County,  which  embraced  all  of  the  State  west  of  a  line  running 
due  north  of  the  Delaware  River  through  and  along  the  eastern 
limits  of  the  present  counties  of  Montgomery,  Fulton,  and 
Hamilton  to  the  Canadian  line.  It  was  named  Tryon  from 
the  governor  of  the  colony,  and  Johnstown  was  designated  as 
the  county  seat  on  May  10,  1772. 

Governor  Tryon  was  so  devoted  to  the  British  interests 
that  his  name  became  obnoxious  to  the  patriots  of  the  valley, 
and  in  1784  the  name  of  the  colony  was  changed  from  Tryon 
to  Montgomery  County,  and  comprised  lands  of  the  present 
counties  of  Fulton  and  Montgomery. 

In  1838  this  county  was  again  subdivided  into  two  counties 
and  named  Montgomery  and  Fulton,  Montgomery  County  be- 
ing named  from  the  patriot,  General  Richard  Montgomery, 
who  was  killed  in  the  attack  on  Quebec,  December  31,  1775. 
He  had  acquired  possession  of  Chambly,  St.  Johns,  and  Mon- 
treal, thereby  becoming  master  of  the  greater  part  of  Canada. 

On  August  29,  1735,  Charles  Williams  and  others  w^ere 
granted  a  patent  for  a  tract  of  land  in  the  town  of  Florida 
containing  about  14,000  acres,  which  was  soon  after  sold  to 
Sir  Peter  Warren  of  New  York,  the  uncle  of  Sir  William 
Johnson.  This  tract  of  land  extended  from  the  Mabie  Patent, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Schoharie  or  Tiononderoija  Creek  about 


28o  The  Mohawk  X^alley 

six  or  seven  miles  along  the  bank  of  said  creek  to  a  point 
about  midway  between  Mill  Point  and  Burtonsville,  thence 
from  that  point  in  a  straight  line  about  eight  miles  long  to  a 
point  on  the  Mohawk  River  below  Phillips's  Lock,  about  oppo- 
site Cranesville,  and  was  triangular  in  shape.  It  was  on  this 
tract  of  land  that  William  Johnson  was  located  when  he  came 
to  this  country  in  1738,  at  the  age  of  twenty-three  years. 
William  Johnson  was  born  in  Warrentown,  county  of  Downs, 
Ireland,  in  the  year  171 5.  It  is  said  that  he  fell  in  love  with 
a  young  lady  in  Ireland,  but  was  prevented  from  marrying  her 
by  her  friends.  About  this  time  his  uncle,  Sir  Peter  Warren, 
made  him  a  proposition  to  come  to  America  and  look  after  his 
landed  estate,  an  offer  he  gladly  accepted.  He  located  at 
what  was  called  Warrensbush,  on  the  easterly  border  of  the 
estate  and  the  Mohawk  River.  He  erected  a  small  dwelling 
and  store  at  a  point  on  the  Morris  or  John  Blood  farm,  about 
midway  between  the  brick  mansion  and  the  house  of  Walter 
M.  Major,  and  about  one  mile  from  Alexander  and  Hamilton 
Phillips,  brothers  who  had  located  at  what  is  now  called  Phil- 
lips's Lock  somewhat  earlier.  As  early  as  17 16,  one  Philip 
Groat,  a  member  of  one  of  the  Dutch  families  that  had  settled 
at  Rotterdam,  made  a  purchase  of  land  near  Cranesville,  and 
was  probably  the  first  white  man  that  settled  on  the  north  side 
of  the  Mohawk,  in  the  town  of  Amsterdam.  From  that  date 
until  after  the  Revolution  we  do  not  find  the  names  of  any 
others  who  settled  in  this  vicinity,  except  the  Sir  William  John- 
son settlements  at  or  near  Fort  Johnson — probably  on  account 
of  the  troubles  over  the  Kayaderosseras  grant.  The  grant  to 
Philip  Groat  conveyed  all  of  the  lands  between  the  creeks 
(about  one  mile)  and  as  far  north  from  the  Mohawk  as  he 
might  desire.     This  embraced  the  present  site  of  Cranesville. 

The  settler  saw  perilous  times  from  the  very  beginning.    It 
is    recorded    that    Philip    Groat    when    removing    hither   was 


Early  History  of  Amsterdam 


281 


drowned  in  the  Mohawk  near  Schenectady  by  breaking 
through  the  ice.  He  was  in  a  sleigh  accompanied  by  a  woman, 
who  was  also  drowned.  His  widow  and  three  sons,  Simon, 
Jacob,  and  Lewis,  the  latter  being  only  four  years  old,  with 
several  domestics,  made  the  intended  settlement.  They  were 
the  pioneers  of  Amsterdam,  and  were  sturdy,  courageous  peo- 
ple, as  evinced  by  the  stories  that  are  told  of  these  early  days 
that  tried  men's  souls  and  bodies.  In  1730  the  Groat  Brothers 
erected  a  grist  mill  at  what  is  now  Cranesville,  said  to  have 
been  the  first  mill  of  the  kind  erected  on  the  north  side  of  the 
Mohawk,  and  for  a  time  served  the  settlement  at  German 
Flats,  fifty  miles  away.  The  first  bolting  cloth  was  put  in  by 
John  Burns,  a  German,  in  1772. 
J.  R.  Simms  says: 

In  the  summer  of  1755,  two  hundred  troops  clad  in  rich  High- 
land tartans  passed  on  their  way  to  Fort  Johnson,  six  miles  above. 
Groat,  observing  a  gate  across  the  road  had  been  left  open  by  the 
troops,  went  after  sundown  to  shut  it.  When  returning  it  began  to 
lain,  and  for  temporary  shelter  he  stepped  under  a  large  oak  tree. 
While  there  three  Indians,  a  father  and  sons,  approached  him.  He 
took  them  to  be  Mohawks,  and  extending  a  hand  to  the  oldest, 
greeted  him  in  a  friendly  manner.  The  hand  was  received  and 
firmly  held  by  the  Indian,  who  claimed  Groat  as  a  prisoner.  Find- 
ing them  in  earnest,  and  seeing  them  all  armed  with  rifles,  he  sur- 
rendered. 

The  Indians  belonged  to  the  Owenagunga  tribe.  They  took 
him  to  their  settlement  in  Canada,  where  he  was  forced  to  run 
the  gauntlet.  He  was  soon  after  sold  to  a  French  Canadian 
named  Louis  de  Snow,  with  whom  he  remained  as  a  servant 
until  the  declaration  of  war  between  Great  Britain  and  France, 
when  he  was  claimed  as  a  British  prisoner,  and  for  six  months 
imprisoned  in  St.  Francis's  Way,  near  Montreal.  He  was 
finally  liberated  and  returned  home  after  an  absence  of  four 
years  and  four  months. 


282  The  Mohawk  Valley 

The  manner  in  which  the  town  and  city  of  Amsterdam  was 
named  is  not  generally  understood,  or  rather  in  speaking  of 
the  occurrence  we  are  apt  to  get  dates  mixed. 

We  will  have  to  rely  upon  tradition  for  the  naming  of  the 
town,  as  there  are  no  records  of  that  event. 

Tradition  says  that  shortly  after  Joseph  Hagaman  settled 
at  the  place  now  called  Hagaman  in  1787,  having  made  some 
improvements  on  his  homestead,  he  began  the  erection  of  a 
sawmill.  At  that  time  (1788)  all  of  the  country  north  of  the 
Mohawk  was  called  the  district  of  Caughnawaga.  The  scat- 
tered settlers  had  assembled  for  the  purpose  of  raising  the 
frame  of  Mr.  Hagaman's  sawmill.  This  must  have  been  a 
great  event  to  the  settlers  of  this  district,  and  undoubtedly 
the  occasion  called  forth  all  the  able-bodied  men  for  miles 
around.  Those  who  may  have  attended  the  "  raising  "  of  a 
frame  for  a  large  building  forty  or  fifty  years  ago  will  remem- 
ber the  immense  beams  and  posts  and  girders  which  were  first 
pinned  together  with  wooden  pins  and  then  placed  in  position 
for  "  raising."  They  will  also  remember  that  it  was  always  ex- 
pected that  the  owner  or  contractor  should  furnish  refresh- 
ments,— sometimes  sandwiches,  often  crackers  and  cheese,  but 
always  whisk..,'  or  rum. 

This  was  undoubtedly  a  notable  gathering,  brought  there 
for  a  notable  purpose:  the  erection  of  a  sawmill,  which  was 
almost  as  necessary  to  the  early  settler  as  a  grist  mill.  The 
one  to  furnish  bread,  and  the  other  the  material  for  construct- 
ing the  dwellings  of  those  hardy  pioneers.  Undoubtedly  the 
neighbors  came  from  all  points  of  the  compass,  either  on  foot 
or  horseback  or  in  the  primitive  vehicles  of  those  early  days, 
no  coach,  landau,  cabriolet,  coupe,  or  hansom  in  the  proces- 
sion, however.  I  can  imagine  that  Captain  Emmanuel  DeGrafT 
was  there,  and,  perhaps.  Lieutenant  Peter  Groot,  proud  of  the 
wound  he  received  at  the  battle  of  Oriskany.     Also  George 


Early  History  of  Amsterdam  283 

Shuler,  Peter  Van  Wormer,  and  some  of  the  Putnams  and 
Hansons  from  Tribes  Hill,  Fred  Lepper,  Wm.  Kline,  and 
some  of  the  Swarts,  Adam  Sixbury,  Nicholas,  Isaac,  Jere- 
miah, and  Frederick  DeGraff,  and  a  number  of  Scotchmen 
from  Perth  and  Galvvay.  Perhaps  some  of  the  lads  and  lassies 
accompanied  their  elders  to  see  the  fun.  No  doubt  the  ques- 
tion of  the  division  of  the  large  district  of  Caughnavvaga  had 
been  under  discussion  for  some  time,  and  the  division  lines 
practically  decided  upon.  Naturally  the  question  of  a  name 
for  the  new  town  that  was  to  be,  would  be  a  proper  subject  for 
discussion,  and  when  the  name  of  Amsterdam  was  suggested 
and  an  informal  vote  taken,  it  was  unanimously  agreed  upon. 

Upon  the  organization  of  the  town  at  the  final  division  of 
Caughnawaga,  in  1793,  the  wishes  of  the  residents  were  re- 
spected, and  the  new  town  was  named  Amsterdam.  The  vil- 
lage at  the  mouth  of  the  Chuctanunda  was  called  Veddersburg 
until  April  5,  1808,  when  at  a  town  meeting,  said  to  have 
been  held  in  the  house  of  James  Allen,  now  a  farmhouse 
owned  by  Stephen  Sanford,  being  part  of  the  Hurricana  farm, 
the  question  of  changing  the  name  of  the  village  from  Vedders- 
burg to  Amstersdam  was  submitted  to  a  vote,  which  resulted 
in  a  tie.  "  James  Allen,  being  president  of  the  meeting,  had 
a  casting  vote,  and  out  of  modest  courtesy  to  the  Dutch  ele- 
ment, decided  upon  the  name  Amsterdam." 

Most  of  the  histories  of  Amsterdam  place  the  date  of  this 
town  meeting  in  1804,  but  from  the  records  of  the  town  clerk 
of  the  town  of  Amsterdam,  it  would  seem  that  the  correct 
date  is  that  given  above.  There  is  no  record  of  the  vote 
spoken  of  above  having  been  taken,  however.  The  first  town 
meeting  of  the  town  of  Amsterdam,  after  the  division  of  the 
old  town  of  Caughnawaga,  was  held  at  the  house  of  Isaac 
Vedder,  on  the  first  Tuesday  in  April,  1794,  at  which  time 
the  following  town  officers  were  elected : 


284  The  Mohawk  Valley 

Daniel  Miles,  supervisor;  John  P.  Allin,  clerk;  James 
Allin,  Joseph  Hagaman,  Emmanuel  DeGraff,  assessors; 
James  Allin,  Emmanuel  De  Graff,  overseers  of  the  poor  ; 
James  Allin,  Henry  Kennedy,  Emmanuel  DeGraff,  commis- 
sioners of  highways;  Nicholas  Hagaman,  Adam  Nave  (prob- 
ably Neff),  constables;  Albert  H.  Vedder,  Myndert  Wimple, 
James  Allin,  fence  viewers;  John  Groot,  poundmaster;  James 
Allin,  place  of  meeting  for  1795,  and  a  long  list  of  overseers 
of  highways. 

Building  roads  seems  to  have  been  their  principal  work,  as 
it  is  the  only  business  that  is  recorded  in  the  books  of  the 
town  clerk. 

Among  the  list  of  taxpayers  in  1794  were:  Jeremiah  De- 
Graff,  Frederick  DeGraff,  Isaac  DeGraff,  John  DeGraff,  John 
DeGraff,  junior,  Emmanuel  DeGraff. 

On  the  tax-roll  for  1794  we  find  that  the  assessment  of  Jacob 
Schuyler  was  £412;  Daniel  Miles,  ^429;  Albert  H.  Vedder, 
;^320;  William  Kline,  ^^383;  James  Allin,  £266;  Frederick 
DeGraff,  ^260;  John  L.  Groot,  ^220;  Ahasuarus  Marselis, 
;^2ii;  Geo.  Shuler,  ^217;  Chris.  Peek,  ^^252;  Nicholas  Brat, 
i^207;  Ezra  Thayer,  ^211. 

At  the  town  meeting  held  at  the  house  of  Captain  John  P. 
Allin,  on  March  i,  1803,  it  was  resolved  that  the  town  meet- 
ing for  1804  should  be  held  at  the  house  of  Gabriel  Manny  at 
Manny's  Corners.  At  that  time  the  place  of  meeting  for  1805 
was  changed  back  to  the  house  of  James  Allin,  where  it  had 
been  held  since  the  organization  of  the  town  in  1794.  At  the 
annual  meeting  in  1808  it  was  resolved  that  the  next  town 
meeting  be  held  at  the  meeting  house  in  Veddersburg.  And 
it  is  probable  that  the  vote  changing  the  name  to  Amsterdam 
was  also  taken  at  that  time  (1808),  as  the  record  of  1809  says: 
"  The  annual  town  meeting  was  held  in  the  meeting  house  in 
the  village   of  Amsterdam."     After  that   date   up   to    1812, 


Early  History  of  Amsterdam  287 

which  IS  as  far  as  the  record  extends,  the  annual  election  was 
held  at  the  house  of  Joseph  Oosterhoadt  on  Main  Street, 
where  the  store  occupied  by  Isaac  Adler  now  stands. 

I  have  not  been  able  to  locate  the  house  of  Isaac  Vedder, 
spoken  of  as  being  the  place  of  the  first  election  of  officers  for 
the  town  of  Amsterdam.  The  only  Vedder  houses  that  I  have 
been  able  to  find  is  one  that  was  occupied  by  Volkert  Vedder 
as  laid  down  on  the  old  map  of  1807,  and  stood  where  the 
residence  of  Mrs.  W.  K.  Greene  now  stands,  and  the  old 
Harmonus  Vedder  house  that  formerly  stood  on  the  site  of 
the  present  residence  of  Mr.  Lauren  Kellogg. 

The  latter  Vedder  house  was  known  as  the  Cornelius  Mil- 
ler house,  which  now  stands  on  the  west  side  of  William 
Street,  where  it  was  moved  about  twenty  years  ago. 

On  a  map  made  in  1807,  we  find  two  Vedder  houses.  One 
occupied  by  Harmon  Vedder,  standing  where  the  dwelling 
house  of  Lauren  Kellogg  now  stands,  which  I  have  mentioned 
before.  Residents  of  Amsterdam  will  remember  this  house  as 
the  old  Cornelius  Miller  house,  which  was,  within  a  few  years, 
removed  to  the  west  side  of  William  Street,  and  is  now  known 
as  No.  12.  The  other  house  was,  in  1807,  owned  and  occu- 
pied b)^  Volkert  Vedder,  and  stood  where  the  residence  of 
Mrs.  W.  K.  Greene  now  stands.  This  house  now  stands  on 
the  north  side  of  Greene  Street,  and  is  known  as  Nos.  7  and 
9,  and  belongs  to  the  heirs  of  the  late  Mrs.  James  Bell.  In 
one  of  these  houses,  probably  the  Cor.  Miller  house,  the  first 
election  in  the  town  of  Amsterdam  was  held.  The  election 
for  1795  was  held  at  the  house  of  James  Allen. 

At  what  time  previous  to  the  above  date  the  Allen  house 
was  built  we  are  unable  to  state,  probably  not  many  years.  It 
was  in  existence,  however,  in  1793.  It  was  evidently  built  for 
a  public  house,  and  kept  as  such  for  a  good  many  years. 
James  Allen  conveyed  it  to  his   son-in-law,   William    Davis. 


288  The  Mohawk  Valley 

Davis  conveyed  it  to  Alfred  Birch,  who  occupied  it  until  185 1, 
when  he  conveyed  to  Alex.  Scott,  who  conveyed  to  John 
Chalmers,  who  conveyed  to  Stephen  Sanford,  who  now  owns  it. 

Another  old  house  is  the  Gabriel  Manny,  junior,  house,  on 
East  Main  street,  about  one-quarter  of  a  mile  from  Elk  Street. 
For  a  number  of  years  this  house  was  occupied  by  a  Mrs. 
Ellsworth  and  subsequently  by  George  Ross. 

It  was  formerly  one  of  the  numerous  stage  houses  that 
were  so  frequently  seen  along  the  Mohawk  turnpike,  from 
1795  to  1840.  There  were  two  Gabriel  Mannys,  the  senior 
living  at  Manny's  Corners  and  the  junior  on  the  Mohawk 
turnpike. 

Mr.  Stephen  Sanford  is  fortunate  in  being  the  owner  of 
two  of  the  oldest  houses  in  Amsterdam, — the  old  James  Allen 
house  on  the  Hurricana  farm  and  the  Thomas  house  on  the 
Round  View  farm. 

The  Thomas  house  was  probably  erected  by  Henry 
Thomas  in  1797,  as  Mr.  Sanford  is  in  possession  of  a  brick 
taken  from  one  of  the  chimneys  bearing  that  date. 

This  house  and  the  Allen  house  are  in  excellent  condition, 
and  considering  their  "  run  of  a  century  "  and  over,  present  a 
very  sturdy  appearance,  owing  to  the  heavy  timbers  used  in 
their  construction. 

The  Thomas,  or,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  the  Reid  house, 
at  Round  View,  often  attracts  the  attention  of  passers-by 
because  it  does  not  seem  to  be  on  a  line  with  anything,  unless 
it  might  be  with  the  north  and  south  pole. 

This  is  accounted  for  by  the  fact  that  the  old  public  road 
ran  along  what  is  now  the  rear  of  the  house,  which  was  for- 
merly the  front,  as  can  plainly  be  seen  by  examining  the  rear 
door  to  the  main  hall.  This  door  and  casing  is  quite  orna- 
mental, and,  with  its  quaint  side  lights,  reveals  the  antiquity 
of  the  building-. 


Early  History  of  Amsterdam  289 

In  those  days  there  was  no  roadway  on  the  south  bank  of 
the  creek  by  Green  Hill  Cemetery. 

Persons  who  are  in  the  habit  of  passing  Round  View  have 
noticed  a  triangular  piece  of  land  leading  from  near  the  barn 
and  coming  to  a  point  at  a  stone  wall  on  lands  of  Samuel 
Clizbe.  The  north  fence  of  this  lot  was  the  north  side  of  the 
old  road  which  ran  between  the  barn  and  the  house,  through 
the  meadow  and  across  the  present  road,  and,  with  a  sharp 
turn,  back  into  the  field  and  through  the  centre  of  the  half- 
moon  woods  and  across  the  flats  now  covered  by  the  waters; 
of  Kellogg  dam,  passed  the  old  stone  oil  mill  and  entered  the 
grounds  of  the  present  Green  Hill  Cemetery,  by  what  is  now 
the  upper  entrance  opposite  the  old  yellow  house  on  the  bank 
of  the  creek,  thence,  following  an  easy  grade  up  over  the  hill,, 
the  road  came  out  at  the  present  main  carriage  entrance  to  the 
cemetery,  and  so  on  down  Church  Street. 

This  road  was  ordered  straightened  as  it  is  at  present,  and  the 
width  ordered  four  rods  wide,  December  14,  1809,  the  highway- 
commissioners  being  David  Shepard,  Samuel  Jones,  and  Duncan 
Stewart.  It  is  thought  that  the  dug-way  between  Sanford's 
dam  and  the  Green  Hill  Cemetery  was  constructed  a  little  later. 

The  house  at  Round  View  farm  was  built  in  1797  by- 
Henry  Thomas,  and  known  as  Henry  Thomas's  store,  who 
probably  conveyed  the  same  in  1798  to  William  Thomas,  who 
conveyed  it  to  William  Helling,  January  14,  1S06;  Helling  con- 
veyed to  William  Raid,  February  3,  1824;  William  Reid  con- 
veyed to  Edward  Reid  in  1841  ;  Edward  Reid  conveyed  to  Jane 
Dingman,  who  conveyed  to  William  K.  Greene,  Greene  to 
Richard  Pierce,  Pierce  to  R.  H.  Johnson,  Johnson  to  Stephen 
Sanford,  the  present  owner. 

While  it  was  in  possession  of  Mrs.  Dingman  it  was  re- 
modelled by  changing  the  stairs  in  the  main  hall  and  by 
changing  the  front  of  the  house  to  the  south. 


290  The  Mohawk  Valley 

Below  this  house  on  the  south  side  of  the  road  next  below 
the  Jay  Reid  farmhouse  is  a  building  which  I  am  inclined  to 
believe  was  erected  before  1794,  and  was  the  residence  of 
Elisha  Arnold,  the  father  of  Benedict  Arnold  and  father-in-law 
of  William  Reid,  both  well-known  business  men  between  1806 
and  1850. 

William  Reid  was  born  at  Speddock,  in  the  parish  of  Holy, 
wood,  and  county  of  Dumfries,  Scotland,  November  12,  1779. 
Sailed  from  Greenock,  June  i,  1802,  and  arrived  in  the  port 
of  New  York  August  8th  of  the  same  year,  and  came  im- 
mediately to  Amsterdam,  by  sloop  to  Albany,  on  foot  to 
Schenectady,  and  by  bateau  up  the  Mohawk  River.  He  soon 
opened  a  school  "  on  the  rocks  "  at  Rockton,  where  he  taught 
for  four  years.  In  1806  he  married  the  daughter  of  Elisha 
Arnold,  and  a  little  later,  in  connection  with  his  brother-in- 
law,  Benedict  Arnold,  kept  a  general  store  on  Main  Street. 

Contemporary  with  the  above-named  persons,  at  1806,  we 
find  the  names  of  Osias  Bronson,  the  grandfather  of  James 
Bronson,  who  moved  here  in  1802,  Timothy  Downs,  Daniel 
Miles,  Tulluck,  E.  E.  DeGraff,  Barnes,  Vedder,  DeForest, 
Blade,  Roseboom,  Waters,  Thomas,  and  Esmond,  Matthew 
Bovee,  and  others. 

The  house  now  known  as  the  Voorhees  mansion  was  built 
by  Garret  Roseboom  the  latter  part  of  the  last  century,  and 
was  one  of  the  numerous  stage  or  road  houses  scattered  along 
the  Mohawk  turnpike  in  the  early  part  of  the  last  century. 
This  quaint  old  building,  both  in  its  exterior  and  interior, 
bears  the  impress  of  antiquity.  I  lately  called  upon  the  two 
surviving  members  of  the  family,  Messrs.  Stephen  and  George 
Voorhees,  and  was  most  cordially  received  by  those  hale  and 
hearty  good  fellows. 

At  first  I  felt  like  sympathizing  with  "  Steve  "  in  his 
nearly  lifelong  affliction,  but  when   I   noticed  how  ready  the 


Early  History  of  Amsterdam  291 

younger  brother  was  to  use  his  eyes  for  the  comfort  and  pleas- 
ure of  the  other,  I  was  conscious  that  at  home,  at  least,  he  did 
not  feel  the  loss  of  his  sight  as  when  abroad. 

This  old  building,  with  its  exterior  of  severe  simplicity, 
is  a  landmark  that  cannot  fail  to  attract  the  attention  of 
passers-by. 

Architecturally,  it  cannot  be  called  beautiful,  but  there  are 
very  few  of  our  old  residents  who  would  care  to  have  it  marred 
by  an  attempt  to  modernize  the  structure.  I  think  it  was 
James  G.  Blaine  who  said  that  he  did  not  like  those  changes 
that  make  an  old  building  Queen  Anne  in  front  and  Mary  Ann 
behind. 

Approaching  the  place  from  Market  Street,  we  first  see  the 
substantial  stone  wall  and  iron  gate  that  is  so  familiar  to  all 
the  young  boys  and  the  old  boys  of  the  last  century.  How 
many  of  the  old  boys  that  have  grown  up  in  our  city  can 
say  that  they  have  never  played  on  the  top  of  this  wall  and 
under  the  shade  of  those  venerable  maples  ?  Many  of  both 
sexes  have  pleasant  memories  of  it  as  a  trysting-place  in  the 
moonlight  in  days  gone  by.  I  think  it  is  remembered  equally 
with  "  the  old  pine  tree  at  the  end  of  the  walk  "  on  East 
Main  Street,  which  stood  where  the  parsonage  of  St.  Mary's 
now  stands. 

The  front  of  the  mansion  is  practically  the  same  as  when 
built,  the  only  change  noticeable  is  in  the  wing  at  the  east 
end,  where  the  tall  pillars  which  formerly  reached  to  the  roof 
and  formed  a  high,  narrow  portico  have  been  replaced  by  a 
two-story  piazza.  The  house  as  seen  from  the  street,  with  its 
plain  white  walls  and  antique  doors  and  windows,  would  never 
be  mistaken  for  a  modern  structure.  The  severely  plain  front 
door  with  its  old-fashioned  iron  door-knocker  representing  the 
hooded  head  of  an  Egyptian  princess,  the  latticed  storm-door 
of    the  wing,  the  stone  flagging  branching  from   the  gate  to 


292  The  Mohawk  Valley 

reach  the  two  doors,  are  the  same  as  when  I  first  saw  them  in 
my  childhood,  but  I  miss  the  four  plain  white  pillars  in  front 
of  the  wing  that  succumbed  to  the  hand  of  time,  and  were  re- 
placed by  the  structure  spoken  of  above. 

As  we  pass  the  front  door  we  enter  at  once  into  a  wide, 
long  hall  with  broad  stairs  at  the  end,  with  the  usual  slim 
balusters  and  hand-rail  of  polished  mahogany  grown  dark  with 
age.  The  room  on  the  west  side  was  formerly  used  as  a  par- 
lor, and  the  woodwork  of  the  doors  and  casing  and  the  mantle 
over  the  deep  fireplace  show  the  ornamental  moulding  and 
carving  that  we  so  often  find  in  houses  built  a  century  ago. 

On  the  east  side  of  the  hall  is  a  large  square  room  lighted 
by  two  windows  in  front.  This  room  was  the  hotel  office 
and  barroom  when  the  house  was  used  as  a  road  house  in  the 
early  part  of  the  last  century  and  called  the  Roseboom  House. 
Scattered  among  the  modern  pieces  of  furniture  in  this  room 
are  several  pieces  of  dark  mahogany  or  rosewood  that  are 
unique  in  their  well-preserved  antiquity. 

On  the  walls  are  two  well-executed  oil  paintings  of  interest, 
one  of  which  represents  a  very  pretty  woman  of  perhaps 
twenty-five  years  in  the  short  waist  and  scant  skirt  in  vogue 
in  those  early  days.  This  is  Mrs.  Betsy  Voorhees,  the  wife  of 
Dr.  Samuel  Voorhees.  The  other  painting  is  a  portrait  of  an 
older  woman,  and  is  a  very  well-executed  likeness  of  Mrs. 
Reynolds,  whose  maiden  name  was  Bartlett,  and  the  mother 
of  Mrs.  Samuel  Voorhees  and  Marcus  T.  Reynolds.  The  little 
cap  that  adorns  the  head  is  beautiful  in  its  quaint  simplicity. 

The  Voorhees  family,  which  includes  the  Amsterdam  and 
the  Florida  branches,  are  descendants  of  Steven  Coerte  Van 
Voorhees,  born  in  1600  at  Hees,  Holland,  and  came  to  this 
country  "  from  before  "  the  village  in  April,  1660,  and  settled 
at  Flatlands,  L.  I. 

The  meanincf  in  Enfilish  of  the  Holland  name  Van  Voor- 


Early  History  of  Amsterdam  293 

hees,  is  "  from  before  the  Hees  ";  "  Van  "  meaning  "  from," 
"  Voor  "  meaning  "  before  "  or  in  front  of,  and  Hees  being 
a  small  village  about  five  miles  from  Ruinen,  Holland,  which 
contained  in  1600  nine  houses  and  about  fifty  inhabitants. 

Dr.  Samuel  Voorhees  was  a  man  of  great  individuality, 
and  is  remembered  as  a  man  of  ability  in  his  profession.  His 
appearance  in  his  later  years  was  such  as  to  attract  atten- 
tion. A  spare  man  of  medium  height  and  a  slight  bend  for- 
ward when  walking,  snow-white  hair  and  whiskers,  which  he 
wore  in  long  fringe  around  the  edge  of  the  jaw,  his  short, 
quick  steps,  and  the  ever-present  cane  was  a  familiar  sight  on 
Main  Street  for  a  great  many  years.  He  died  November  i, 
1870.  This  brief  account  of  the  Voorhees  family  would  not 
be  complete  if  I  failed  to  mention  another  member  of  the 
family — Mrs.  Betsey  Voorhees.  She  was  a  sister  of  the  well- 
known  lawyer,  Marcus  T.  Reynolds,  and  was  a  woman  of 
great  intelligence  and  marked  force  of  character,  who  kept  in 
advance  of  all  the  projects  of  reform  advocated  by  her  co- 
workers, Mrs.  Elizabeth  Cady  Stanton,  Lucy  Stone,  and  Mrs. 
Bloomer.      She  died  February  8,  1858. 

Mr.  Stephen  R.  Voorhees  informs  me  that  John  V.  Henry, 
at  one  time  a  prominent  man  in  the  village  of  Amsterdam, 
and  also  owner  of  Guy  Park  in  1805,  was  brother-in-law  of 
Commodore  Charles  Wilkes  of  the  American  navy.  John  V. 
Henry  had  a  son  who  was  named  for  the  commodore  and 
called  Wilkes  Henry.  He  was  a  schoolmate  of  Stephen  Voor- 
hees in  the  old  red  schoolhouse  that  formerly  stood  where  the 
East  Main  Street  brick  schoolhouse  now  stands,  and  which 
was  burned  in  the  great  fire  of  the  summer  of  1856. 

Wilkes  Henry  when  a  young  man  went  on  a  voyage 
with  his  uncle,  the  commodore,  in  the  exploring  expedition 
of  1838-42,  at  which  time  they  visited  the  Feejee  Islands. 
Young  Henry  asked  leave  to   go    ashore    with  a  boat  crew. 


294  The  Mohawk  Valley 

Permission  being  granted,  they  rowed  for  the  shore,  disap- 
peared, and  were  never  heard  from  again.  It  was  always  sup- 
posed that  they  were  captured  by  the  savages  and  roasted  and 
eaten. 

It  is  said,  however,  that  in  later  years  the  Feejees  preferred 
the  flesh  of  a  nic<i  plump  female  savage  to  a  white  man,  as 
they  found  the  flesh  of  a  white  man  insipid,  and  having  the 
flavor  of  tobacco. 

This  reminds  me  of  the  questions  of  a  young  irrepressible 
who  had  been  told  a  story  of  a  missionary  having  been  eaten 
by  a  cannibal.  "  Papa,"  he  says,  "  will  the  missionary  go  to 
heaven  ?  "  "  Yes,"  said  the  father.  After  a  pause  the  boy 
says,  "  Pa,  will  the  cannibal  go  to  heaven  ?  "  "  No,  of  course 
not,"  says  the  father.  "  Pa,"  says  the  boy,  "  how  can  the 
missionary  go  to  heaven  if  the  cannibal  don't  ?  " 

In  the  year  1826  General  Lafayette  passed  through  Port 
Jackson  on  the  Erie  canal  on  his  way  to  the  western  portion  of 
the  State.  It  was  not  known  that  he  was  on  the  packet  until  it 
was  near  at  hand,  consequently  no  organized  reception  was 
made  in  his  honor.  However,  about  fifty  of  the  residents 
hurried  over  in  time  to  see  him,  but  were  so  overawed  at  his 
presence  that  no  one  made  an  effort  to  speak  to  him.  Among 
those  who  were  present  was  Mrs.  Samuel  Voorhees,  who  trans- 
mitted to  him  a  pair  of  fine  worsted  stockings  knitted  by  her- 
self of  one  hundred  stitches  to  the  needle.  Afterwards  Mrs. 
Voorhees  received  a  letter  from  Lafayette  acknowledging  their 
receipt  and  expressing  thanks  for  the  gift.  To-day  this  letter 
is  one  of  the  most  valued  possessions  of  the  Voorhees  family. 
They  are  also  in  possession  of  six  mahogany  chairs  formerly 
the  property  of  Sir  W.  Johnson. 

Ozias  Brownson  (Bronson)  came  to  Amsterdam  in  1802, 
and  later  became  a  tenant  on  a  farm  belonging  to  Dr.  Samuel 
Voorhees,  who  at  that  time  lived  in  Amsterdam.     Somewhat 


Early  History  of  Amsterdam  295 

later  George  W.  J.  Bronson,  the  son  of  Ozias,  married  a 
daughter  of  Garret  Roseboom,  the  builder  of  the  Voorhees 
mansion.  Anthony  Roseboom,  a  brother  of  Mrs.  George 
Bronson,  was  born  in  this  house,  and  is  still  living  in  Fulton- 
ville  at  the  age  of  ninety-five  years. 

Mr.  George  Bronson  and  his  bride  went  to  housekeeping 
in  the  "  old  yellow  Voorhees  house,"  which  formerly  stood 
on  the  north  side  of  Main  Street,  near  the  site  of  the  Yund 
block. 

Ozias  Brownson  subsequently  bought  a  farm  west  of  the 
village  and  built  a  farmhouse,  which  was  afterwards  burned  to 
the  ground.  Our  people  have  known  this  place  as  the  Forbes 
farm,  which  is  now  owned  by  St.  Mary's  Church  and  used  as 
a  cemetery. 

In  1796,  a  bridge  having  been  built  across  the  Schoharie, 
a  turnpike  was  opened  from  Canajoharie  to  Albany  on  the 
south  side  of  the  Mohawk  River  and,  with  its  extensions,  called 
the  Great  Western  Turnpike. 

In  order  to  accommodate  the  tide  of  emigration  up  the 
Mohawk  Valley  (the  "  gate  "  to  the  west)  efforts  were  made 
to  improve  the  thoroughfares,  especially  from  Schenectady  to 
Utica,  and  on  April  4,  1800,  a  charter  for  the  construction  of 
the  Mohawk  Turnpike  was  granted.  In  1802  or  1803  Seth 
Wetmore  and  Levi  Norton  came  from  Litchfield,  Conn.,  and 
interested  themselves  in  the  turnpike  enterprise.  They,  with 
Ozias  Brownson,  Hewitt  Hill,  and  three  others,  formed  the 
first  board  of  directors. 

The  turnpike  was  not  constructed  so  much  for  stages  as 
for  transporting  the  immense  quantities  of  merchandise  and 
produce  to  and  fro  from  Albany  to  Utica  and  Oswego  and 
subsequently  to  Buffalo  and  the  great  West.  The  wagons 
used  were  ponderous  vehicles  drawn  by  four  and  sometimes 
six  and  eight  horses,  and  must  have  resembled  the  "  prairie 


296  The  Mohawk  Valley 

schooners  "  of  the  West,  with  their  canvas  covers.  To  accom- 
modate this  great  traffic,  houses  were  built  along  the  turnpike, 
and  those  already  built  were  utilized  for  road  houses,  as  they 
were  called,  for  the  accommodation  of  man  and  beast.  These 
were  equipped  with  a  bar,  a  few  beds,  and  large  sheds. 

The  farmers  in  those  days  would  drive  their  own  teams  and 
take  along  provisions  for  themselves  and  their  horses,  and  by 
paying  a  sixpence  for  a  bed  and  buying  a  quart  of  whiskey 
would  find  a  place  under  the  shed  for  their  teams. 

The  stages  were  large  Concord  coaches,  swung  on  leather 
thoroughbraces,  v/ith  room  for  six  passengers  inside  and  as 
many  more  outside,  with  six  or  eight  horses  and  a  change 
of  teams  at  every  important  stage  house,  and,  as  the  road 
improved  in  later  years,  it  is  said  to  have  been  a  stirring 
sight  to  see  the  experienced  driver  arrive  at  a  hotel,  with 
horses  on  a  gallop,  his  long  whip  cracking  over  their  heads, 
while  his  helper  blew  his  horn  with  a  toot,  toot,  toot,  which 
was  a  signal  for  all  the  idle  men  and  boys  to  gather  to  see  the 
stage  come  in,  which  was  the  supreme  event  of  the  day.  The 
following  extract  from  Mr.  Thurlow  Weed's  autobiography 
gives  an  interesting  account  of  a  stage  journey  on  the  Mo- 
hawk turnpike  in  1824.  After  speaking  of  his  journey  from 
Rochester,  he  says: 

Nothing  of  special  interest  until  we  reach  Sprakers,  a  well-known 
town  that  neither  stages  nor  vehicles  of  any  description  were  ever 
known  to  pass. 

Of  Mr.  Spraker,  senior,  innumerable  anecdotes  were  told.  He 
was  a  man  without  education,  but  possessed  strong  good  sense,  con- 
siderable conversational  powers  and  much  natural  humor.  Most  of 
the  stories  told  about  him  are  so  Joe-Millerish  that  I  will  repeat  but 
one  of  them.  On  one  occasion  he  had  a  misunderstanding  with  a 
neighbor,  which  provoked  both  to  say  hard  things  of  one  another. 
Mr.  Spraker  having  received  a  verbal  hot  shot  from  his  antagonist, 
reflected  a  few  moments,  and  replied,  "  Ferguson,  dare  vas  worse 


Early  History  of  Amsterdam  297 

men  in  hell  dan  you,"  adding  after  a  pause,  with  a  growl,  "  but  dey 
vas  chained." 

At  Canajoharie  a  tall  handsome  man,  with  graceful  manners,  is 
added  to  our  list  of  passengers.  This  is  Hon.  Alfred  Conklin,  who, 
in  1820,  was  elected  to  Congress  from  this  district.  In  passing 
Conynes  hotel,  the  fate  of  a  young  lady,  "  who  loved  not  wisely  but 
too  well,"  with  an  exciting  trial  for  breach  of  promise,  etc.,  would 
be  related.  Still  farther  east  we  stopped  at  Failing's  tavern  to 
water. 

Going  some  miles  farther  east,  we  came  in  sight  of  a  building  on 
the  west  side  of  the  Mohawk  River,  and  near  its  brink,  the  peculiar 
architecture  of  which  attracts  attention.  This  was  formerly  Charles 
Kane's  store,  or  rather  the  store  of  the  Kane  Brothers,  five  of  whom 
were  distinguished  merchants  of  the  forepart  of  the  present  century. 
Here  Com.  Charles  Morris,  who,  in  1812,  distinguished  himself  on 
board  the  United  States  frigate  Constitution  (he  was  Lieut.  Morris 
at  that  time,  and  was  wounded  in  the  engagement),  in  her  engage- 
ment with  the  British  frigate  Guerriere^  passed  his  boyhood. 

The  next  points  of  attraction  were  of  much  historic  interest.  Sir 
William  and  Guy  Johnson  built  spacious  and  showy  mansions  a  few 
miles  west  of  the  village  of  Amsterdam,  long  before  the  revolution, 
in  passing  which  interesting  anecdotes  relating  to  the  English 
baronet's  connection  with  the  Indians  were  remembered.  A  few 
miles  west  of  Sir  William  Johnson's,  old  stagers  would  look  for  an 
addition  to  our  number  of  passengers  in  the  person  of  Daniel  Cady, 
a  very  eminent  lawyer,  who  resided  at  Johnstown,  and  for  more 
than  fifty  years  was  constantly  passing  to  and  from  Albany.  At 
Amsterdam,  Marcus  T.  Reynolds,  then  a  rising  young  lawyer  of 
that  village,  often  took  seat  in  the  stage,  and  was  a  most  com 
panionable  traveller. 

Simms  speaks  of  the  following  tavern-keepers  along  the 
Mohawk  River:  On  Tribes  Hill,  Kline,  Putman,  Wilson;  Guy 
Park,  James  McGorck;  Amsterdam,  Col.  William  Shuler; 
Cranesville,  Crane;  below,  Lewis  Groat,  Swart,  and  others. 


Chapter  XVII 
Canagera,   One  of  the  Mohawks'  Castles 

1HAVE  before  me  a  letter  from  the  director  of  the  Bureau 
of  American  Ethnology,  at  Washington,  in  which  he  sug- 
gests that  a  paper  on  some  recent  discovery  of  an  Indian 
castle  site  near  the  city  of  Amsterdam  be  prepared  and 
sent  to  the  American  Ajitlir apologist  for  publication,  and  then 
he  says:  "  You  will  see  by  the  enclosed  list  of  publications 
that  this  bureau  has  published  very  little  in  regard  to  the 
tribes  of  your  State."  It  does  seem  strange  that  there  has 
not  been  more  written  about  the  Mohawk  Indians.  Located 
as  they  were  when  Champlain  invaded  the  Mohawks'  country, 
in  1609,  between  Oneida  Lake  and  Fort  Orange,  they,  with 
the  assistance  of  other  tribes  of  the  Iroquois,  stood  as  a  bul- 
wark between  the  savage  Indians  and  Frenchmen  of  Canada, 
and  the  struggling  settlements  to  the  east  and  south,  up  to  the 
petiod  of  the  ending  of  the  French  war,  in  1763. 

Undoubtedly  the  assistance  the  Mohawks  gave  the  earlier 
settlers  of  the  Mohawk  Valley,  and  their  inveterate  hatred  of 
the  Algonquins  in  retaliation  for  the  defeat  they  suffered  by 
Champlain's  help  in  1609,  saved  the  Mohawk  River  from  be- 
ing the  southern  boundary  line  of  Canada.  Nearly  all  the  his- 
tory of  the  valley  dates  from  the  time  Van  Curler  and  his  little 
band  of  hardy  pioneers  settled  at  Schenectady  in  1662. 

One  of  the  most  noteworthy  of  those  sturdy  Dutchmen, 
next  to  Van  Curler  (or  Van  Corlear),  was  Jan  Barentse  Wemp, 
who  arrived  in  this  country  and  located  in  Beverwyck,  in  1643 

29S 


Canagera,  One  of  the  Mohawks'  Castles    299 

or  1645.  The  record  says  that  he  married  twice  and  had  six 
children.  The  suffix,  se,  to  the  name  of  Barent,  indicates 
that  he  was  the  son  of  a  Barent  Wemp  (Wemple).  Three 
of  his  children  were  sons,  whose  names  were  Myndert,  the 
eldest,  and  Barent,  who  was  born  in  1656,  and  married  Folkje, 
daughter  of  Symon  Volkertse  Veeder,  and  had  ten  children. 
He  was  appointed  captain  of  a  company  of  foot  by  Lieutenant- 
Governor  Leisler,  in  1690.  He  had  a  son,  Jan  Barentse 
Wemp.  The  name  of  the  third  son  I  have  not  been  able  to 
ascertain. 

Jan  Barentse  Wemp,  the  elder,  was  one  of  the  original 
fourteen  pioneers  who  settled  in  Schenectady  in  1662.  It  is 
said  that  Governor  Stuyvesant  granted  the  first  patent  of  land 
(an  island  at  Schenectady)  in  1662,  to  Jan  Barentse  Wemp  and 
Jacques  Cornelise  Van  Slyck,  a  half-breed.  This  island  was 
sometimes  called  Wemp's  Island,  and  is  now  known  as  Van 
Slyck's  Island.  Jan's  name  is  connected  very  closely  with  the 
early  history  of  Schenectady,  and  his  descendants  may  be 
found  among  many  of  the  prominent  families  of  the  whole 
Mohawk  Valley. 

Myndert,  the  eldest  son  of  Jan  Barentse  Wemp,  had  a  son, 
Johannes,  also  called  Jan,  or  John,  who,  in  171 1,  lived  in  the 
"  Mohawk's  country,  on  the  Mohawk  River."  On  the  iith 
day  of  October  of  that  year.  Governor  Hunter  made  a  con- 
tract with  John  Wemp,  Garret  Symonce,  Barent  Vroman, 
Hendrick  Vroman,  and  Arent  Van  Patten,  of  Schenectady,  to 
build  the  fortification  called  Fort  Hunter,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Schoharie  River,  and  Queen  Anne's  Chapel,  which  was  situ- 
ated inside  the  palisade  or  fort.  This  fort  and  chapel  were 
completed  in  1712. 

Jan  Wemp,  as  he  was  called  by  his  Dutch  neighbors, 
owned  part  of  the  fourth  flat  of  the  Schenectady  patent,  which 
was    located    at    Pattersonville.      On   December   16,    1737,   he 


300  The  Mohawk  Valley 

obtained  a  patent  of  450  acres  of  land  in  the  town  of  Florida 
located  east  of  Queen  Anne's  Chapel  glebe,  and  adjoining 
the  same  on  the  west,  and  the  Babbington  patent  of  171 7, 
on  the  east.  He  died  October  14,  1749.  He  married,  first, 
Catalina,  daughter  of  Reyer  Schermerhorn,  June  15,  1700, 
and  second,  Ariaantje,  daughter  of  Isaac  Swits,  October  6, 
1709,  and  had  twelve  children;  six  sons  and  six  daughters. 
A  few  extracts  from  his  will  may  be  found  interesting.  He 
divided  his  estate  as  follows: 

To  my  sons  Isaac  and  Ephraim,  the  westerly  part  of  the  flats  on 
the  south  side  of  the  Mohawk  River,  where  I  now  live,  in  the 
Mohawks*  country;  to  John,  Jr.,  the  easterly  part  of  my  flats;  to  my 
daughter,  Maria  Butler,  wife  of  Lieutenant  Walter  Butler,  Jr.,  two 
morgens  of  land,  etc.,  and  to  my  daughter  Rebecca,  wife  of  Pieter 
Conyn,  two  morgens  of  land,  etc. 

This  Walter  Butler  was  an  uncle  of  Walter  N.  Butler  of 
Cherry  Valley  massacre  notoriety,  and  was  killed  at  the  battle 
of  Lake  George,  September  8,  1755. 

Who  has  not  experienced  a  desire  for  a  stroll  in  the  country 
during  the  bright  and  beautiful  October  weather  so  common 
in  this  latitude  ?  It  seems  to  come  with  added  force  on  some 
bright  Sunday  morning,  and  one  longs  to  breathe  the  fresh  air 
of  the  fields  and  the  odors  of  the  forest,  and  perhaps  "  look 
through  nature  up  to  nature's  God." 

One  Sunday  morning  I  yielded  to  such  a  desire,  and  with 
a  comrade  boarded  the  trolley  for  Fort  Johnson,  and  being 
rowed  across  the  river  by  a  "  lone  fisherman,"  we  were  soon 
on  our  tramp  into  the  Mohawks'  country.  Our  road  lay  along 
the  canal,  with  its  steam  propellers  belching  forth  dense  black 
smoke  and  pushing  and  pulling  two,  four,  or  five  heavily  laden 
canal  boats;  on  our  left  was  the  West  Shore  Railroad,  with 
its  long  trains  of  rattling,  rumbling  cars,  and  screeching,  his- 
sing locomotives,  while  to  the  right,  across  the  Mohawk,  could 


Canagera,  One  of  the  Mohawks'  Castles    303 

be  seen  and  heard  endless  trains  of  freight  and  passengers, 
passing  east  and  west. 

The  road  we  were  travelling  was  probably  the  Indian  trail 
followed  by  Jan  Wemp  (Wemple)  and  his  companions,  en 
route  for  the  Tiononderoga,  to  construct  Queen  Anne's 
Chapel  and  Fort  Hunter.  Leaving  the  massive  masonry  of 
the  "  two  locks,"  which  are  long  enough  to  admit  two  canal 
boats  at  one  time,  we  pass  the  pleasant  home  of  the  Mac- 
Gregors,  and  in  due  time  arrive  at  the  home  of  Mrs.  Cornelius 
Wemple  and  Emory  and  Gilbert  Wemple,  sons  of  Cornelius 
and  grandsons  of  Ephraim,  spoken  of  above  as  having  in- 
herited the  westerly  half  of  the  flats  of  Jan  or  John  Wemp, 
which  name  is  now  changed  to  Wemple.  We  can  imagine 
Jan  and  his  companions,  resting  at  the  Indian  spring  by  the 
wayside  and  drinking  of  its  cooling  water,  and  perhaps  at  that 
early  date  casting  his  eye  over  the  flats  with  a  desire  for  pos- 
session. The  Wemple  homestead  of  the  present  day  is  a  com- 
modious edifice  of  modern  construction,  situated  near  the 
highway  a  little  to  the  west  of  the  Indian  cold  spring.  About 
one  hundred  feet  from  the  house  formerly  stood  the  old 
Wemp  place,  as  it  was  called,  the  home  of  Jan  Wemp,  the 
great-grandfather  of  the  present  owners  of  the  farm.  When 
the  Erie  Canal  was  constructed,  in  1820,  it  passed  through  the 
front  yard  of  the  old  house,  even  taking  away  the  front  steps, 
leaving  the  house  so  near  the  canal  that  you  could  step  from 
the  front  door  into  the  water.  As  I  remember  the  old  house, 
it  was  quite  a  pretentious  two-story  edifice,  flanked  with  two 
stone  houses  one  story  high  and  about  twelve  feet  square,  one  of 
which  was  used  as  a  kitchen,  as  was  the  custom  with  well-to-do 
families  in  the  early  part  of  the  eighteenth  century.  The  walls  of 
the  old  kitchen  are  yet  standing,  but  the  roof  has,  of  course,  fal- 
len with  decay  and  been  replaced  with  a  temporary  superstruc- 
ture that  looks  sadly  out  of  place  on  its  time-worn  stone  walls. 


304  The  Mohawk  Valley 

Our  mission  to  the  Wemple  place  was  to  find,  if  possible, 
the  site  of  an  old  Indian  castle  called  by  Van  Curler,  in  the 
diary  of  his  journey  to  the  Mohawks'  country,  Canagera,  situ- 
ated about  one  Dutch  mile  east  of  a  large  stream  (Schoharie 
River).  At  this  place,  which  is  about  two  English  miles  from 
Schoharie  River,  we  found  abundant  evidence  of  Indian  oc- 
cupation. The  cold  spring  by  the  roadside  and  another  on 
the  hill  were  walled  up  years  before  the  advent  of  Jan  Wemp 
by  previous  occupants  of  the  land, — the  Mohawks.  Back  of 
the  house  is  an  old  Indian  ford,  the  only  one  for  miles  east  or 
west  over  the  Mohawk  River.  Mr.  Gilbert  Wemple  pointed 
out  an  old  Indian  trail  through  the  primitive  forest,  leading  to 
Auriesville,  and  probably  to  the  vicinity  of  Minaville. 

Being  asked  if  he  had  ever  seen  any  embankment  or  evi- 
dence of  the  remains  of  an  Indian  fortification,  he  pointed  to 
a  path  which  he  said  led  to  a  singular  embankment,  or  ridge, 
which  tradition  said  had  been  there  before  the  advent  of  his 
ancestors.  Following  the  path  indicated,  through  the  woods, 
I  came  to  a  field  that  had  formerly  been  a  forest  of  immense 
trees,  but  which  had  been  almost  entirely  destroyed  by  a  tor- 
nado that  swept  through  the  valley  a  few  years  ago.  This 
field  has  been  cleared,  except  of  numerous  huge  upturned 
trunks,  and  is  now  almost  completely  covered  with  berry 
bushes.  To  the  south  of  this  field  stands  the  primitive  forest, 
on  whose  northern  edge,  on  a  bit  of  high  ground,  is  a  clearing. 
Extending  across  the  north  side  of  the  clearing  is  a  grass-cov- 
ered embankment,  about  one  hundred  feet  long,  four  feet  wide 
at  its  base,  and  perhaps  two  or  three  feet  high.  At  the  east 
end  of  this  embankment,  and  near  the  angle  formed  by  a 
similar  ridge  leading  to  the  south,  is  an  opening  about  four 
feet  wide  or  about  the  width  of  a  gate  or  entrance.  The  east- 
erly ridge  is  of  the  same  size  and  structure,  and  extends  about 
one  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  to  another  angle,  where  it  meets  a 


Canagera,  One  of  the  Mohawks'  Castles    305 

well-defined  but  irregular  ridge  around  the  edge  of  a  swamp, 
to  the  place  of  beginning.  On  the  west  side  of  the  clearing 
we  found  a  rudely  walled-up  spring  or  well,  filled  with  the 
rubbish  of  the  forest.  At  various  places  on  the  top  of  the 
eastern  and  southern  ridge,  or  embankment,  large  trees  are 
growing,  two  of  which  are  immense  pines,  estimated  to  be 
over  150  years  old,  showing  the  great  antiquity  of  this  singu- 
lar work  of  the  Indians.  The  size  of  the  enclosure  is  about 
100  feet  by  150,  and  there  is  plainly  visible  an  embankment 
of  about  350  feet  in  length. 

To  the  west  of  this  clearing  is  a  swamp,  which  could  be 
drained  to  a  near-by  ravine  by  a  cut  about  twenty  feet  long 
and  two  feet  deep.  On  the  north  and  east  is  a  well-defined 
broad  ditch,  outside  the  embankment,  leading  to  the  swamp 
on  the  south.  It  is  surely  a  very  curious  structure,  and  is  of 
great  interest,  as  there  is  evidence  of  Indian  occupation  on  the 
hill  and  on  the  flats  below. 

After  a  thorough  examination  of  the  clearing  and  adjoining 
grounds,  we  returned  to  the  Wemple  residence,  and  there  met 
Mr.  Emory  Wemple  and  our  friend  Harrison  Chase,  of  Am- 
sterdam, whose  present  wife  is  a  sister  of  the  owners  of  the 
Wemple  farm,  and  were  cordially  received,  told  many  an  in- 
teresting tale,  and  shown  many  objects  of  interest.  A  curi- 
ous stone  slab,  on  a  slight  elevation,  at  a  turn  in  the  road  near 
the  large  barn,  was  pointed  out.  A  wide,  deep  indentation, 
evidently  worn  by  the  action  of  waters,  ran  across  the  width 
of  the  slab,  and  in  the  centre  was  a  smooth  circular  depression 
having  the  appearance  of  a  primitive  mortar,  such  as  was  used 
by  the  early  Indians  in  grinding  their  corn  with  a  stone  pestle. 
A  spot  near  the  house  was  said  to  have  been  a  burial-place  of 
the  Indians,  and  a  well-authenticated  account  of  the  finding 
of  the  bones  of  an  aborigine  who  had  been  buried  in  an  erect 
position  was  given. 


3o6  The  Mohawk  Valley 

The  following  day  we  again  visited  the  clearing  on  the  hill, 
in  company  with  Messrs.  T.  B.  Van  Derveer  and  Dewitt  A. 
Devendorf,  and  were  confirmed  in  our  opinion  that  the  clear- 
ing contains  the  remains  of  an  Indian  fortification;  but 
whether  prehistoric  or  not,  it  is  hard  to  tell.  One  of  the  party 
who  was  eager  to  explore  an  excavation  in  the  clearing,  de- 
scended into  it  and  pulled  down  a  pile  of  stone  in  his  investi- 
gation. His  hurried  exit  soon  after  was  explained  by  the  fact 
that  he  had  put  his  hand  upon  a  large  snake.  With  a  stick 
we  removed  a  flat  stone  and  exposed  his  snakeship,  coiled  for 
a  strike.  If  it  had  been  anything  but  a  snake,  we  might  have 
thought  it  a  thing  of  beauty;  but  it  would  take  a  wonderful 
expansion  of  imagination  to  find  beauty  in  a  reptile.  The 
coils  of  its  parti-colored  body  were  gracefully  placed,  and  its 
flat  head  and  about  a  foot  of  slimy  length,  was  drawn  back  in 
graceful  curves,  with  its  small  bead-like  eyes  watching  for  its 
enemy.  However,  no  thought  of  compassion  or  admiration 
could  prevent  poising  a  stone  for  its  destruction,  nor  was  it  an 
impulse  of  cruelty  that  dashed  the  stone  to  its  lair.  But  we 
did  not  crush  his  snakeship,  as  we  had  hoped  to;  he  swiftly 
glided,  with  an  indescribable  undulatory  motion,  without  ap- 
parent effort,  to  a  place  of  safety  in  the  opposite  bank.  We 
were  sorry  we  did  not  **  bruise  its  head,"  as  it  was  the  proper 
thing  to  do,  according  to  the  Scriptures. 

This  little  incident  of  the  snake  seemed  to  add  gloom  to 
the  solitude  of  the  forest,  and  we  picked  our  way  through  a 
treacherous  swamp  and  were  glad  to  get  on  firmer  ground 
again.  Crossing  a  deep  ravine,  which  afforded  an  outlet  to 
the  waters  of  the  swamp  above,  we  turned  aside  from  our  path 
to  see  the  ancient  burial-ground  of  the  Wemple  family,  and 
were  surprised  at  its  populous  appearance.  It  could  hardly  be 
called  a  graveyard,  as  it  was  situated  in  a  vast  field  that  gentlv 
slopes  towards  the  setting  sun.     We  counted  over  a  hundred 


Canagera,  One  of  the  Mohawks'  Castles    309 

mounds  in  this  ancient  Godsacre,  under  the  shade  of  a  single 
giant  oak.  The  single  marble  slab  in  commemoration  of  the 
death  of  Ephraim  Wemple,  in  1838,  seemed  out  of  place 
among  the  rude  slabs  of  limestone,  without  date  or  inscription, 
that  marked  the  last  resting-place  of  the  hardy  pioneers,  the 
descendants  of  Jan  Barentse  Wemple.  Each  mound  was  well 
defined  and  free  from  weeds  or  briers.  Small  slabs  of  gray 
limestone  indicated  the  head  and  foot  of  each  grave,  making 
it  apparent  that  a  large  number  of  children  of  various  ages  had 
been  buried  there.  Mounds  of  greater  length  also  marked  the 
last  resting-place  of  numerous  adults. 

About  one  hundred  and  sixty  years  ago,  perhaps,  the 
ground  was  opened  to  receive  the  remains  of  the  first  occupant 
of  this  primitive  graveyard  in  the  forest.  Imagination  pic- 
tures the  scene.  Up  this  gentle  slope  and  under  the  shadow 
of  towering  pines,  oaks,  and  maples,  winds  the  funeral  proces- 
sion from  the  homestead  on  the  bank  of  the  Mohawk,  the 
rude,  unvarnished  cofnn  borne  by  kindly  neighbors,  who  have 
followed  the  trail  from  a  distance  to  show,  by  their  presence, 
their  sympathy  for  the  bereaved  family.  We  can  imagine  an 
absence  of  bright  colors  in  the  funeral  train,  but  no  sable 
robes.  Perhaps  the  Rev.  Henry  Barclay,  their  nearest  neigh- 
bor, from  Queen  Anne's  Chapel,  stands  at  the  head  of  the  open 
grave,  while  at  a  respectful  distance,  a  group  of  half-naked 
Indians  gaze  stoically  at  the  strange  scene.  How  unmeaning 
to  the  savages,  but  how  full  of  hope  to  the  sorrowing  friends, 
are  the  words  of  the  minister  as  the  clods  fall  on  the  cof^n  : 
"  I  heard  a  voice  from  heaven  saying,  write,  from  henceforth 
blessed  are  the  dead,  who  die  in  the  Lord.  Even  so  saith  the 
spirit,  for  they  rest  from  their  labors." 

A  few  days  later  we  again  visited  the  clearing  spoken  of 
above,  in  company  with  the  late  A.  G.  Richmond  of  Cana- 
joharie  and  W.  J.  Kline,  T.  B.  Van  Derveer,  and  Professor 


3IO  The  Mohawk  Valley 

Maney  of  Amsterdam,  and  were  again  puzzled  over  this 
strange  embankment.  A  superficial  investigation  of  the  earth 
in  the  clearing  did  not  reveal  the  hoped-for  evidence  of  pre- 
historic relics,  except  some  gray  earth  that  had  the  appear- 
ance of  ashes,  which  under  the  glass  revealed  the  presence  of 
tiny  bits  of  charcoal.  This  was  found  about  eighteen  inches 
below  the  bottom  of  an  old  rott-^n  stump,  and  was  evidently 
of  great  age.  A  more  extended  investigation  may  reveal  the 
evidence  required. 

The  embankment  on  the  hill  does  not  prove  or  disprove 
the  location  of  the  site  of  Canagera,  for  it  is  said  by  Van  Cur- 
ler that  this  castle  was  without  palisades.  It  may  be  of  later 
construction,  or  it  may  antedate  the  Iroquois  nation,  and  be- 
long to  the  mound  builders,  as  it  bears  resemblance  to  their 
curious  earthworks,  found  in  Ohio  and  other  Western  States. 

I  would  like  to  add  that  the  older  residents  of  Fort  Hunter 
speak  of  the  clearing  on  the  hill  as  "  Yaunney's  Garden," 
from  the  fact  that  a  man  by  the  name  of  Yaunney  cultivated 
this  spot  about  forty  or  fifty  years  ago.  This  may  account  for 
the  absence  of  the  hoped-for  Indian  relics,  as  the  cultivation 
of  the  soil  would  naturally  obliterate  evidence  of  Indian  oc- 
cupation, in  the  shape  of  ashes,  charcoal,  burned  stone,  and 
so  forth. 

In  1897,  while  gathering  material  for  the  history  of  Queen 
Anne's  Chapel  at  Fort  Hunter,  I  had  occasion  to  visit  that 
place  to  locate  the  chapel,  which  was  destroyed  in  1820  by 
the  building  of  the  Erie  Canal.  I  succeeded  in  doing  so  to 
my  entire  satisfaction,  but  was  confronted  with  substantial 
evidence  of  the  existence  of  the  remains  of  a  palisade  at  a 
greater  distance  from  the  chapel  than  a  number  of  authentic 
documents  had  placed  it,  and  looked  upon  it  as  a  mystery  that 
was  hard  to  solve. 

Reference  has  been  made  at  different  times  and  by  different 


Fort  Hunter  3' ' 

authors  to  the  fact  that  Sir  William  Johnson,  previous  to  the 
Revolution,  had  repaired  the  fort  and  mounted  it  with  cannon. 
We  know  that  it  was  garrisoned  by  a  detachment  of  British 
soldiers. 

A  short  time  ago,  while  looking  over  some  old  letters  of 
Sir  William  Johnson's  I  came  across  the  following,  taken  from 
a  letter  written  to  Governor  DeLancey,  and  dated  Mount 
Johnson,  June  6,  1755: 

I  returned  last  night  from  the  Conhogohery  Indian  Castle,  having 
first  been  at  the  Mohawk  Castle.  At  Both  settlements  I  have  fixt 
on  places  to  build  them  forts.  At  the  hither  (Mohawk)  castle  I 
propose  it  to  be  nearly  on  a  line  with  Fort  Hunter,  to  take  in  the 
church  (chapel)  as  a  Bastion,  and  to  have  a  communication  Palisades 
between  the  two  Forts,  which  will  be  of  small  Expense,  and  in  case 
of  an  Attack  may  be  of  great  service  by  mutually  assisting  each 
other,  and  if  drove  to  the  necessity  of  quitting  the  one,  they  may 
still  maintain  the  other. 

Another  letter  is  dated  Mount  Johnson,  June  16,  1755: 
"  I  have  last  night,  with  much  difficulty,  agreed  with  three 
men  to  build  the  two  Forts  at  the  Mohawk  Castle." 

That  the  two  forts  were  built  is  shown  from  a  speech  by 
the  Indian  Abrahain,  before  Sir  William  in  1758.  I  find  it  in 
the  appendi.x  of  the  second  voluine  of  W.  L.  Stone's  Life  of 
Sir  Williajii  JoJinson. 

Fort  Johnson,  Jan.  13,  1758.  At  a  meeting  of  some  of  the 
Mohawk  chiefs  of  the  lower  town.  Present,  Sir  William  Johnson, 
Bart.,  Lieut.  Claus,  Dep.  Sec'y,  Geo.  Croghan,  Esq.,  Captain 
Thomas  Butler;  Mr.  Arent  Stevens,  Captain  Montour,  interpreters; 
Abraham,  speaker. 

Brother  Warra. — We  come  here  to  lay  our  case  before  you  which, 
as  it  seems  at  present,  is  very  precarious;  listen  Brother,  and  we 
will  relate  you  our  unlucky  accident  which  happened  in  our  town 
yesterday  evening. 

One  of  our  young  men  who  has  been  these  many  weeks  past  from 
home,  returning  yesterday,  found  that  since  his  leaving  home  another 


312  The  Mohawk  Valley- 

party  of  men  were  posted  in  the  garrison.  In  order,  therefore,  to 
pay  a  visit  to  the  commanding  officer,  and  bid  him  welcome  to  his 
garrison  (not  knowing  that  the  sentries  were  ordered  to  stop  any 
Indian  from  entering  the  fort)  he  came  up  to  the  gate,  and  to  his 
great  surprise,  as  quite  uncustomary  heretofore,  was  repulsed  by  the 
sentry,  and  after  offering  a  second  time  to  go  in,  was  pushed  to  the 
ground  with  the  butt  of  the  gun.  Upon  which,  seeing  himself  thus 
unfriendly  used,  he  returned  to  his  house,  and  going  along  one  of 
the  block  houses,  they  emptied  .  .  .  upon  him,  and  shrew  him 
with  snowballs;  standing  a  little  after,  under  the  door  of  his  house, 
he  saw  two  soldiers  coming  towards  the  Indian  town,  and  consider- 
ing his  ill-treatment  a  little  before,  went  to  the  gate  of  the  Indian 
Fort,  and  attempted  to  stop  the  soldiers;  giving  them  to  understand 
that  as  they  would  not  let  them  enter  their  fort,  he  was  unwilling 
they  should  come  among  the  Indians;  but  he  was  soon  pushed  back; 
and  one  of  the  soldiers  took  up  a  piece  of  wood,  and  knocked  him 
to  the  ground  with  it,  leaving  four  wounds  in  his  head.  Upon 
which  a  French  prisoner  tried  to  take  up  the  wounded  man  but  was 
prevented  by  the  soldiers,  and  obliged  to  run  for  his  life  to  a  white 
man's  house  just  by  there,  and  they  followed  him  and  would  have 
given  him  some  cuts,  had  he  not  pushed  the  door  after  him  and 
kept  the  door  shut. 

Some  of  our  young  men,  seeing  all  this,  immediately  ran  to  meet 
us  (as  we  were  not  yet  come  home  from  the  meeting  at  your  house) 
and  finding  us  at  John  Wemp's,  where  we  stopped  a  little,  told  us 
that  there  was  fighting  and  quarrelling  among  the  soldiers  and  In- 
dians; we  hastened  home,  and  driving  up  towards  my  stable,  in 
order  to  take  my  horses  out  of  the  sleigh,  and  put  them  up,  in  the 
first  place  found  four  soldiers  in  the  stable,  and  upon  asking  them 
what  they  were  doing  there,  and  desiring  them  to  leave  the  stable 
that  I  might  put  up  my  horses,  they  immediately  struck  me  with 
their  fists,  on  which  I  got  hold  of  him  that  struck  me  first,  and 
brought  him  to  the  ground,  holding  him  some  time,  to  prevent  his 
striking  me  again,  when  the  rest  got  hold  of  me,  tossed  me  about, 
and  had  like  to  choke  me;  tore  my  wampum  and  silver  medal  from 
my  neck,  which  they  have  either  kept  or  thrown  away,  as  I  cannot 
find  it  in  the  place  where  we  struggled.  During  the  time  of  this  two 
other  Indians,  hearing  the  noise,  came  to  see  what  was  the  matter, 
when  the  soldiers  were  calling  for  help  to  the  fort,  as  I  found  after- 
wards by  a  number  of  soldiers  coming  with  drawn  cutlasses,  and 


Fort  Hunter 


3'd 


pursued  the  two  young  Indians,  who  were  unarmed,  and  one  of 
them  ran  to  his  house,  and  by  a  strong  door,  which  he  pushed  after 
him,  saved  himself,  although  many  cuts  were  made  into  the  door  to 
split  it.  The  other  Indian  ran  likewise  to  his  house,  but  he  had  not 
time  to  shut  the  door  when  the  soldiers  rushed  into  the  house,  fell 
to  cutting  him  and  gave  him  three  wounds  in  his  body,  two  in  his 
head,  and  a  stab  in  his  breast,  which  proves  very  dangerous.  His 
sister,  being  in  the  house  at  the  same  time,  cried  out  "  murder," 
when  one  of  the  soldiers  struck  at  her  and  cut  her  in  two  places 
under  her  arm;  and  having  a  blanket  about  her  saved  her  from 
being  killed.  At  last  an  officer,  a  sergeant,  came  from  the  fort  to 
prevent  their  doing  more  mischief,  but  the  soldiers  were  in  such  a 
rage  that  he  was  obliged  to  draw  his  sword  among  them  and  actually 
cut  one  of  them  in  the  arm;  which.  Brother,  we  mention  to  you  for 
this  reason  that  upon  inquiring  into  the  affair,  we  may  not  be  charged 
with  having  wounded  him;  for  we  assure  you,  we  had  no  weapons 
in  our  hands  during  the  whole  fray,  nor  intended  at  all  to  quarrel. 

Yesterday  morning,  also,  when  two  of  our  women  wanted  to  cross 
the  river  in  a  canoe  that  belongs  to  us,  and  being  ready  to  push  from 
shore,  they  were  pulled  out  of  the  canoe  by  the  hair  of  their  heads, 
by  two  of  the  soldiers,  and  the  canoe  taken  from  them.  And  not 
long  ago  an  old  woman,  wife  of  one  of  the  sachems,  coming  along 
the  road  with  a  load  of  v/ood  on  her  back,  was  attacked  by  the 
soldiers,  who  wanted  to  ravish  her,  but  defending  herself  with  her 
axe,  she  prevented  their  design. 

This,  Brother,  is  now  the  true  state  of  our  complaint.  [Gives 
string  of  Wampum.] 

This  affair  occurred  just  at  the  time  Sir  William  was  ex- 
pecting a  large  meeting  of  delegates  of  the  Confederacy,  and 
occasioned  him  a  great  deal  of  annoyance.  However,  he 
espoused  the  cause  of  the  Mohawks,  and  caused  the  obnoxious 
garrison  to  be  replaced  by  soldiers  that  were  acquainted  with 
the  Indians. 

In  the  history  of  St,  Ann's  Church  and  Queen  Anne's 
Chapel,  published  by  the  writer  in  1897,  is  a  photo-engraving 
of  the  site  of  the  chapel,  which  was  situated  inside  the 
original  Fort  Hunter.     The  photograph  was  taken  from  the 


314  The  Mohawk  Valley 

bridge  over  the  guard  lock  looking  east.  On  the  west  side  of 
the  bridge  are  the  gates  that  admit  the  waters  of  the  Scho- 
harie into  the  feeders,  which  in  turn  empty  into  the  main  canal 
about  one  half-mile  away. 

The  figure  on  the  left  in  the  photo  is  looking  across  the 
canal  towards  the  site  of  the  chapel. 

From  the  above  account  there  seems  to  be  conclusive  evi- 
dence of  the  existence  of  two  forts  at  Fort  Hunter  at  that 
time. 

From  careful  measurement  we  feel  positive  that  the  centre 
of  the  old  stone  building  was  about  twenty  feet  from  the  east 
end  of  the  right-hand  stone  wall,  and  between  the  two  apple- 
trees  whose  tops  appear  in  the  foreground. 

In  1869,  during  a  flood,  the  roadway  on  the  west  bank  of 
the  creek  vv^as  washed  away,  and  a  large  portion  of  its  waters 
found  exit  across  the  flat  lands  into  the  canal  some  distance 
from  the  roadway.  When  the  water  subsided  it  was  found 
that  much  soil  had  been  washed  away,  exposing  two  lines  of 
palisades.  One  line  extended  along  the  line  of  the  road  on 
which  the  old  rug  mill  stands,  and  a  few  feet  north  of  the 
fence  on  its  northern  border.  The  other  line  was  at  an  angle 
of  about  forty-five  degrees  to  the  first  line,  with  a  well-marked 
opening,  with  stakes  on  each  side,  presumably  leading  to  the 
other  line  of  palisades,  about  one  hundred  feet  south. 

The  theory  that  suggests  itself  is,  that  the  angular  palisade 
belonged  to  the  British  fort,  while  the  straight  line  was  the 
stockade  of  the  Indian  for^  or  village,  the  opening  spoken  of 
being  the  palisaded  connection  between  the  two  forts 
spoken  of  in  Sir  William  Johnson's  letters.  The  stakes  of 
both  palisades  were  about  ten  inches  in  diaineter,  an  inner 
row  covering  the  spaces  between  the  outer  row  of  stakes,  the 
fortification  being  what  was  called  double  stockaded. 

Although  thirty  years  have  elapsed  since  the    flood   that 


Wolf  Hollow  315 

exposed  the  palisade  spoken  of,  a  trench  dug  from  the  fence 
on  the  south  side  of  the  lot  might  again  bring  to  light  evidence 
of  this  old  Indian  palisade.  If  the  owner  of  the  lot,  the  Rev. 
J.  H.  Enders,  would  undertake  this  work  and  lay  bare  some, 
portion  of  the  old  stockade,  he  would  be  able  to  add  an  inter- 
esting chapter  to  the  early  history  of  the  Mohawk  Valley. 

Among  the  persons  now  living  who  saw  the  remains  of 
old  Tiononderoga  (Fort  Hunter)  in  1869,  are  James  Voorhees, 
Amsterdam;  John  Graff,  Fort  Hunter;  and  Dr.  Henry  Dev- 
endorf,  Mill  Point. 

It  is  usual,  when  one  drives  out  in  the  country  for  pleasure, 
to  select  a  day  that  promises  to  be  fair  and  pleasant,  and  for 
that  reason  we  are  apt  to  see  hills  and  valleys  under  the  same 
aspects,  barring  the  changes  of  seasons.  I  took  a  drive  a  few 
days  ago,  however,  when  the  sky  was  overcast  and  the  rumble 
of  distant  thunder  was  heard  in  the  west. 

Our  journey  led  us  down  the  river  road  to  the  Swart's  hill 
road,  and,  as  we  climbed  that  hill  in  the  usual  laborious  man- 
ner, the  rain-drops  were  falling  thick  and  fast  from  the  black 
thunder-clouds  overhead.  We  were  well  protected  from  the 
shower,  however,  and  rather  enjoyed  being  out  in  the  down- 
pour, although  our  faithful  horse  soon  put  on  the  appearance 
that  is  attributed  to  a  drowned  rat. 

As  we  reached  the  top  of  that  dreadful  hill  the  view  of  the 
valley  was  strange  and  grand.  Safe  and  snug  in  our  buggy 
as  a  bug  in  a  rug,  we  saw  the  river  and  hills  under  such  a  new 
aspect  that  we  hardly  recognized  our  surroundings.  From  the 
height  from  which  we  gazed  we  looked  down  on  the  Mohawk, 
made  gray  by  the  dashing  drops  of  rain,  while  the  higher 
Florida  hills,  that  had  been  concealed  from  view  below  by  the 
lower  range  along  the  bank  of  the  river,  spread  out  before  us 
on  an  inclined  plane,  stretching  upward  until  they  disappeared 
in  the  storm-clouds  that  formed    a  gray  fringe  along    their 


3i6  The  Mohawk  Valley 

summit,  as  they  scurried  along  dropping  their  moisture  in  gray 
sheets  on  field  and  forest. 

Looking  down  the  river,  we  could  see  the  Towereune,  and 
Yantapuchaberg,  gray  and  misty  in  the  distance,  and  the 
riv^er,  narrowed  by  the  bend  at  Hoffman's  Ferry,  winding  its 
way  along  the  base  of  those  high  hills  that  reminded  one  of 
old  Donderberg  and  Cro'nest  at  the  entrance  to  the  Highlands 
of  the  Hudson.  The  falling  rain  and  the  blackness  of  the 
clouds  almost  obliterated  colors  from  the  landscape  that  a 
moment  before  had  been  brilliant  with  shades  of  green  and 
yellow  and  brown. 

Our  destination  was  Glenville,  a  pretty  little  village  charm- 
ingly situated  on  a  level  plateau,  surrounded  by  high  hills,  and 
reminds  one  of  a  hugh  bowl  on  a  mountain  top.  The  view  of 
this  elevated  valley,  as  you  approach  it  from  West  Charlton,  is 
a  surprise  and  is  very  pleasing  indeed.  As  we  turned  our  course 
towards  the  river  at  Hoffman's  the  thunder  clouds  were  still 
muttering  in  the  east,  but  the  sun  shone  brightly  overhead. 

Our  course  lay  through  "  Wolf  Hollow,"  one  of  the 
wildest  and  most  charming  drives  in  the  valley  of  the  Mohawk. 

As  we  entered  the  hollow  the  sun  brightened  the  roadway 
somewhat,  but  the  gloom  of  the  forests  on  each  side  was  at 
times  almost  impenetrable. 

This  hollow,  or  ravine,  or  canon,  is  a  narrow  gorge  between 
two  of  the  highest  hills  between  Glenville  and  Hoffman's,  and 
is  barely  wide  enough  for  a  single  roadway  and  the  narrow 
creek  that  ripples  or  roars  along  its  side  in  calm  or  in  storm. 
The  hills  on  each  side  rise  to  the  height  of  three  or  four  hun- 
dred feet,  with  a  fringe  of  towering  pines  along  their  summits, 
and  in  some  places  just  escape  being  termed  precipitous.  At 
one  place  on  the  western  bank  the  earth  has  fallen  away  leav- 
ing a  precipice  perhaps  a  hundred  feet  high  of  thin  ledges  of 
slate  from  top  to  bottom.     As  we  look  up  the  side  of  the  hill. 


THE  KOAU  THROUGH  WOLF  HOLLOW 


317 


Wolf  Hollow  319 

the  forest  would  be  most  impenetrable  were  it  not  for  a  thin 
line  of  gray  sky  that  appears  through  the  trees  at  the  summit. 

At  one  point  a  rivulet  is  trickling  down  at  our  feet,  and, 
as  we  look  up,  we  see  in  the  slaty  bed  of  its  almost  perpen- 
dicular course  a  large  volume  of  water  that  has  been  carried  to 
it  along  the  water  courses  above  by  the  recent  storm,  and,  as 
we  gaze,  we  see  it  leap  over  the  slaty  ledges  in  myriads  of  tiny 
cascades  until  it  dashes  at  our  feet  and  goes  murmuring  along 
to  the  river  below.  About  a  mile  from  the  entrance  of  the 
gorge,  the  ravine  widens  out  a  few  feet  and  at  the  base  of  a 
cliff  is  seen,  through  the  gloom,  a  large  hole  in  its  side,  whose 
impenetrable  blackness  makes  one  shiver.  This  is  said  to  be 
the  entrance  to  a  coal  mine  that  was  opened  many  years  ago 
by  some  visionary  person  who  expected  to  make  a  fortune 
from  the  venture.  It  extended  some  little  distance  into  the 
eastern  bank,  and  coal  was  found,  but  in  quantities  that  would 
not  pay  the  expense  of  mining.  The  mine  is  said  to  be  filled 
with  water. 

Of  late  years  the  road  through  the  ravine  has  been  im- 
proved and  is  in  fair  condition,  in  fact  much  better  through- 
out than  Market  Street  hill.  In  the  two-mile  drive  through 
it  we  did  not  hear  the  howl  of  wolf,  or  see  man,  woman,  or 
child  until  near  the  exit  two  grizzled  fishermen  startled  us 
by  rising  abruptly  in  the  underbrush.  They  were  collecting 
"  scrabblers  "  for  bait. 

At  the  southern  end  of  the  gorge  a  singular  rock  forma- 
tion has  been  uncovered  in  digging  away  the  slate  to  repair 
the  road.  Above  a  mass  of  thin  scales  of  slate  is  a  course  of 
gray  sandstone  about  three  feet  thick  in  a  segment  of  a  circle 
inclining  at  an  angle  of  forty-five  degrees,  and  above,  another 
thick  course  of  slaty  scales,  making  an  interesting  sight  to  the 
geologist.  As  we  emerge  from  the  ravine  we  find  that  we  are 
still  high  above  the  river,  a  glimpse  of  which  we  catch  through 


320  The  Mohawk  Valley 

the  trees  that  are  scattered  here  and  there  in  pleasing  irregu- 
larity. In  a  large  field  to  the  right  stands  an  immense  chest- 
nut tree,  whose  trunk  is  so  large  that  two  men  could  not  span 
its  girth.  The  long,  narrow,  pointed,  drooping  leaves  of  its 
very  dark  green  foliage  and  the  clusters  of  lighter  green 
prickly  burrs  that  hide  the  toothsome  nuts  are  a  very  pleasing 
sight  and  give  promise  of  a  bountiful  harvest.  Wolf  Hollow 
has  as  many  moods  as  our  hills  and  vales,  and  a  traveller 
should  see  it  in  the  brightness  of  noonday  and  also  at  twilight 
in  order  to  appreciate  its  beauties  and  its  terrors. 


Chapter  XVIII 
Early   Industries 

IN  the  year  1802  the  Rev.  John  Taylor,  while  on  a  mission 
through  the  Mohawk  Valley,  made  in  his  journal  the 
following  entry  about  Amsterdam,  which  was  formerly 
part  of  the  ancient  town  of  Caughnawaga:  "  Near  the 
centre  of  this  town  (Amsterdam)  the  Ouctanunda  Creek 
empties  into  the  Mohawk — a  very  fertile  and  useful  stream. 
On  this  stream  and  in  this  town  there  stand  4  grist  mills,  2  oil 
mills,  one  iron  forge  and  3  saw  mills." 

On  an  old  map,  dated  1807,  is  shown  an  oil  mill,  situated 
near  the  mouth  of  the  creek  and  near  the  present  site  of  the 
Pioneer  Knitting  Mill.  This  seems  conclusive  evidence  that 
an  oil  mill  was  in  operation  at  an  early  date,  although  our 
oldest  residents  confess  that  they  have  no  knowledge  of 
such  an  industry  at  that  period.  Where  the  other  was 
situated  it  is  impossible  to  say  at  the  present  time,  unless  it 
may  have  been  in  operation  on  the  Juchtanunda  Creek,  and 
ante-dated  the  primitive  mill  of  Supplina  Kellogg,  one  of  the 
early  settlers  at  West  Galway,  who  founded  a  linseed  oil  mill 
at  that  place  in  1824,  where  he  carried  on  the  business  in  a 
small  way  until  1848. 

Those  who  are  familiar  with  the  road  from  Hagaman  to 
West  Galway  will  remember  that  after  passing  Conner's  grist 
mill  they  come  to  a  long  stretch  of  sandy  road,  and  the  road 
beyond  becomes  narrow  and  rugged  on  account  of  the  dense 

growth  of  underbrush  that  lines  each  side  of  the  wagon  track. 
21 

321 


322  The  Mohawk  Valley 

Emerging  from  the  bushes,  the  road  forms  a  junction  with 
another,  running  north  and  south,  either  branch  of  which,  if 
followed,  will  lead  to  West  Galway  village. 

In  front  and  distant  about  a  hundred  yards  from  the  junc- 
tion is  visible  an  ancient  dam  across  the  Juchtanunda  and  a 
number  of  buildings,  some  of  which  have  all  the  appearances 
of  antiquity.  To  the  left  of  the  lane  that  leads  to  the  old 
buildings  are  two  cottages  pleasantly  situated,  one  of  which 
is  the  home  of  Robert  Calderwood  and  famil3\  The  writer 
feels  under  obligations  to  Mr.  Calderwood  for  courtesies  ex- 
tended and  interesting  information  given. 

The  old  buildings  mentioned  above  are  all  that  remains  of 
an  active  business  centre,  located  here  three-quarters  of  a 
century  ago. 

The  dam,  although  the  water  is  allowed  to  run  through  a 
large  opening  on  the  south,  is  in  a  rem.arkable  state  of  pres- 
ervation, considering  the  manner  of  its  construction. 

The  wings  of  the  dam  are  embankments  about  two  hun- 
dred feet  long  to  the  north  and  to  the  south,  but  the  pour,  or 
dam  proper,  is  about  fifty  feet  wide,  and  constructed  by  laying 
heavy  logs  the  full  width  of  the  stream,  upon  which  were 
placed  other  logs  about  five  feet  apart  and  laid  at  right  angles 
with  the  foundation.  Then  another  row  of  long,  heavy  logs 
and  a  row  of  smaller  ones  at  right  angle  and  so  on  until  the 
desired  height  was  reached.  Leading  from  the  dam  on  the 
north  side  is  a  square,  open  flume,  showing  signs  of  age  and 
usage.  Some  years  previous  this  square  flume  replaced  a 
round  tube  that  had  worn  and  rotted  away.  The  old  round 
flume  carried  the  water  that  furnished  the  power  to  turn  the 
water  wheel  that  operated  the  machinery  that  ground  the  seed 
that  made  the  oil  in  the  pioneer  oil  mill  of  Supplina  Kellogg, 
which  was  located  below  the  dam  on  the  north  side  of  the 
stream.     The  building  is  still  standing,  although  dismantled 


TllK  KUAU    lU  GALWAV    (liAGAMAN  b) 


323 


Early  Industries  325 

of  all  the  machinery  used  for  the  manufacture  of  linseed  oil, 
and  though  the  exterior  of  the  structure  shows  evident  signs 
of  age  the  interior  displays  immense  beams  and  girders  that 
seem  to  bid  defiance  to  time  and  decay. 

I  was  informed  that  part  of  this  old  building  was  formerly 
located  below  the  Beaver  Dam  Creek  about  a  mile  below  a  grist 
mill  belonging  to  Robert  Campbell,  whose  residence  is  still 
standing  near  the  northwest  corner  of  the  roads  mentioned 
above.  Two  of  the  millstones  of  this  grist  mill  may  be  seen  in  a 
field  opposite  the  Campbell  residence  near  the  junction  of  roads. 

The  back  part  of  the  Kellogg  mill  was  used  as  a  fulling 
mill,  where  the  farmers  brought  cloth,  woven  by  their  wives 
and  daughters,  to  be  fulled  and  dressed.  In  the  upper  story, 
bins  were  arranged  in  order  to  keep  each  customer's  cloth 
separate,  and  the  fields  adjoining  were  fitted  with  apparatus 
for  drying  the  same*.  Back  of  this  building  and  disconnected 
from  it  was  a  sawmill. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  creek  was  a  tannery,  where 
hides  were  made  into  leather  by  the  old-fashioned  tedious 
process  that  took  twelve  months  to  complete.  The  building 
has  been  destroyed,  but  the  old  vats  are  still  pointed  out,  in 
which  may  yet  be  seen  portions  of  the  wooden  frames.  To 
the  west  of  the  tannery  was  a  fair-sized  building,  still  stand- 
ing, and  formerly  used  as  a  shoe  shop. 

The  oil,  fulling,  and  saw  mills  were  conducted  by  Supplina 
Kellogg,  and  the  tannery  and  shoe  shop  by  George  Dunning. 

Across  the  fields  to  the  south,  but  on  the  main  road,  still 
stands  the  long,  low  farm  buildings  of  Mr.  Kellogg  and  the 
birthplace  of  his  sons,  John  and  Lauren,  who  succeeded  their 
father  in  the  linseed-oil  business,  and  subsequently  established 
the  same  in  the  village  of  Amsterdam,  in  an  old  stone  building 
which  was  formerly  a  distillery  conducted  by  Benedict 
Arnold  and  others. 


326  The  Mohawk  Valley 

Opposite  the  residence  of  Supplina  Kellogg  was  the  home 
of  George  Dunning,  and  it  is  mentioned  that  between  the  two 
families  such  cordial  relations  existed  that  they  might  almost 
be  called  one  household. 

The  method  of  making  oil  in  those  days  was  crude  in  the 
extreme,  but  the  principle  of  manufacture  was  practically  the 
same  as  now;  that  is,  the  crushing  of  the  seed  and  pressing 
the  product  to  extract  the  oil. 

This  primitive  mill  had  but  one  set  of  stones  and  one  press. 
The  crushing  process  was  accomplished  by  two  circular  stones, 
shaped  like  grist  mill  stones,  attached  to  an  axle,  like  cart 
wheels,  and  connected  to  a  vertical  shaft,  which  in  turning  gave 
two  motions  to  the  stones,  that  of  their  own  axis  and  the  axis 
of  the  upright  shaft,  and  revolving  on  a  stone  bed  on  which 
the  seed  was  placed.  This  process  was  continued  until  the 
seed  became  a  paste,  when  it  was  tempered  with  heat  and 
water,  placed  in  bags  and  subjected  to  great  pressure  by  hand 
in  order  to  extract  the  oil,  which  was  then  conducted  to  the 
rude  cellar  beneath  and  placed  in  barrels.  The  capacity  of 
this  rude  mill  was  about  one  barrel  a  day,  which  was  disposed 
of  to  neighboring  farmers  and  the  near-by  village.  It  is  said 
that  a  large  proportion  of  the  oil  manufactured  was  consumed 
by  the  veteran  painter  of  those  days,  Gardner  Clark,  the  grand- 
father of  William  G.  Clark,  of  Amsterdam. 

The  residuum,  called  oil  cake,  was  allowed  to  accumulate 
until  such  time  as  a  market  could  be  found  for  it  in  some 
neighboring  city,  when  it  was  hauled  to  Amsterdam  and 
shipped  to  its  destination  by  canal. 

Almost  the  first  building  erected  by  the  early  pioneers 
after  building  their  rude  log  huts  was  a  sawmill  to  prepare 
their  timber  for  dwellings,  then  the  grist  mill  to  grind  their 
grain,  and  afterward  a  fulling  mill  for  the  dressing  of  cloth, 
v/oven  on  their  rude  looms  at  home. 


Early  Industries  327 

The  definition  of  fulling  or  milling  is  as  follows:  the 
operation  of  removing  greasy  matters  from  woollen  goods  and 
of  giving  to  them  a  more  compact  texture  by  causing  the 
fibres  to  entangle  themselves  more  closely  together,  as  in 
the  process  of  felting.  Fulling  mills  are  a  very  ancient  in- 
vention. 

After  the  death  of  Supplina  Kellogg  and  the  removal  of  the 
plant  to  Amsterdam,  his  sons,  John  and  Lauren,  increased 
the  capacity  by  larger  sets  of  stone.  The  increased  product 
of  the  mill  made  it  necessary  to  buy  seed  in  larger  quantities 
than  our  farmers  could  furnish,  although  they  were  encouraged 
by  Messrs.  Kellogg  to  plant  increased  acreage  by  loaning 
them  seed  for  that  purpose.  At  that  time  Boston  was  the 
centre  of  importation  of  India  seed  and  from  that  city  the 
firm  bought  most  of  their  supplies. 

When  the  firm  decided  to  engage  in  the  manufacture  of 
oil  in  Amsterdam,  in  185 1,  they  purchased  of  the  estate  of 
Benedict  Arnold  the  mill  property  they  now  occupy. 

Some  years  earlier  Mr.  Arnold  purchased  of  Tunis  I.  Van 
Derveer  this  mill  site  and  water-power  and  erected  a  stone 
building  sixteen  feet  high  for  a  distillery,  and  transferred  the 
apparatus  from  his  old  distillery  building,  which  formerly  stood 
where  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  building  now  stands.  When  Messrs. 
Kellogg  bought  the  property,  the  still  had  not  been  in  operation 
for  a  number  of  years,  and  the  dam  was  in  need  of  repairs. 

Mr.  John  Kellogg  informs  me  that  in  making  the  needed 
alterations  evidence  was  found  in  the  bottom  of  the  dam  that 
a  primitive  oil  mill  had  been  located  on  the  banks  of  the 
creek  at  this  point  at  some  early  period  in  the  history  of  the 
village.  Probably  this  was  one  of  the  two  oil  mills  spoken  of 
by  the  Rev.  John  Taylor  in  1802. 

Messrs.  Kellogg  at  once  added  two  stories  to  the  old  dis. 
tillery  building,  repaired  the  dam,  and  otherwise  improved  the 


328  The  Mohawk  Valley 

property.  They  increased  the  capacity  of  the  old  mill  to  four 
sets  of  stone  for  grinding  the  seed  and  the  necessary  presses 
for  extracting  the  oil.  These  presses  were  run  by  hand  and 
the  work  was  very  laborious.  Gradually  the  business  in- 
creased, requiring  additional  machinery  and  more  adequate 
means  for  extracting  the  oil  and  additional  buildings  for 
storage  of  raw  material  (which  they  imported  direct  from 
India)  and  manufactured  product.  The  dam  was  enlarged, 
and  the  water-power  thereby  increased  fourfold.  Upon  the 
death  of  Lauren  Kellogg,  Mr.  James  A.  Miller  was  admitted 
to  the  firm.  As  the  years  rolled  around,  other  changes  were 
made  in  the  firm  by  admission  or  withdrawal,  until  now  the 
firm  consists  of  John  Kellogg  and  his  two  sons,  George  and 
Lauren,  under  the  firm  name  of  Kelloggs  &  Miller. 

In  order  to  accommodate  the  constantly  increasing  busi- 
ness of  the  firm,  a  branch  railroad  was  built  in  1879,  connect- 
ing with  the  New  York  Central  Railroad  and  owned  by  a 
private  corporation,  consisting  of  members  of  the  above  firm. 

The  same  year  the  branch  was  opened  a  very  serious  acci- 
dent occurred  on  this  branch,  whereby  Mr.  George  Kellogg 
lost  his  left  arm  by  falling  from  a  train  of  freight  cars  in 
motion.  Previous  to  this  the  younger  son,  Lauren,  nearly 
lost  his  life  by  the  accidental  discharge  of  a  gun  while  hunting 
on  the  banks  of  the  Galvvay  reservoir.  In  both  cases  their 
vigorous  strength  and  indomitable  will  snatched  them  from 
the  jaws  of  death  and  restored  them  to  health. 

Fifty  years  ago  the  capacity  of  the  small  mill  on  the  banks 
of  the  Juchtanunda  at  West  Galway  was  one  barrel  of  oil  a 
day  or  10,000  gallons  a  year.  To-day  the  yearly  output  is: 
linseed  oil,  1,700,000  gallons;  oil  cake,  15,000  tons;  and  the 
consumption  of  flaxseed  about  750,000  bushels. 

Practically,  Amsterdam  is  a  city  of  the  nineteenth  century, 
and  beyond  a  few  primitive  sawmills  and  grist  mills  all  of  the 


Early  Industries  329 

industries  that  have  made  it  a  city  have  been  inaugurated, 
extended,  and  multiplied  within  the  nineteenth  century. 

The  very  first  year  of  the  new  century  or  the  very  last 
year  cf  the  old  (1900)  was  the  centennial  of  the  erection  of 
the  first  church  building  in  the  village  of  Amsterdam  (Ved- 
dersburg). 

Among  the  many  and  varied  industries  that  have  been  the 
potent  element  that  has  developed  a  primitive  hamlet  of  a 
half-dozen  families  to  a  thriving  city  of  20,000  inhabitants,  is 
the  carpet  industry.  I  speak  particularly  of  this  industry  as 
it  seems  to  have  been  woven  into  the  early  life  of  the  city 
more  than  any  other,  from  the  fact  that  the  persons  who  have 
done  more  than  any  others  to  establish  the  two  great  indus- 
tries of  Amsterdam  —  the  manufacture  of  carpets  and  the 
manufacture  of  knit  goods — were  formerly  partners  in  a  small 
carpet  factory  standing  on  the  site  of  the  present  buildings 
of  the  Greene  Knitting  Co. 

The  history  of  the  carpet  industry  of  Amsterdam  reads 
like  a  fairy  tale;  with  its  small  beginning  and  struggle  for 
existence,  and  its  present  immense  plant  and  the  affluence  of 
its  proprietors. 

Sometime  about  1836,  William  K.  Greene,  Senior,  met  with 
reverses  in  business  in  Connecticut,  his  former  home,  but  at 
once  set  about  retrieving  his  fortune;  his  son,  William  K. 
Greene,  securing  a  situation  in  a  silk  mill  at  Poughkeepsie 
as  bookkeeper.  Thinking  that  there  was  a  good  opening  for 
business  in  the  village,  he  advised  his  father  to  come  there 
and  open  a  boarding-house.  Poughkeepsie  was  then  quite  a 
manufacturing  town,  and,  besides  fulling  mills,  woollen  fac- 
tories, an  oil  mill  and  a  large  number  of  grain  mills,  there 
were  fifty  looms  in  families  for  the  manufacture  of  cloth  for 
common  clothing.  In  18 10  there  was  only  one  hotel  and 
about  3000  inhabitants  in  the  village.     W.  K.  Greene,  Senior, 


330  The  Mohawk  Valley 

went  to  Poughkeepsie  and  opened  a  boarding-house,  as  ad- 
vised by  his  son. 

Among  his  boarders  was  a  man  by  the  name  of  Douglass, 
an  experienced  dyer,  whose  father  was  a  manufacturer  of 
ingrain  carpets  in  Scotland. 

A  great  deal  of  his  conversation  was  about  carpets  and 
carpet  manufacture,  and  he  soon  interested  Mr.  Greene  and  his 
son  to  the  extent  that  they  began  to  think  seriously  of  start, 
ing  a  factory  in  a  small  way. 

One  day,  while  talking  with  Mr.  Douglass  about  carpets, 
being  undecided  where  to  locate,  Mr.  Greene  picked  up  a 
copy  of  the  Nciv  York  Herald,  and  noticed  an  advertisement 
of  an  old  satinet  mill  and  dwelling  at  Hagaman's  Mills,  offered 
for  rent  for  one  hundred  dollars  a  year. 

They  at  once  secured  the  buildings,  purchased  six  hand 
looms  and  the  necessary  apparatus  complete  and  loaded  them 
on  a  sloop  en  route  for  Albany. 

Thus  by  accident  or  by  fate  the  carpet  industry  was 
brought  to  the  Mohawk  Valley.  This  was  in  the  month  of 
December,  but  before  the  vessel  reached  Albany  a  severe  spell 
of  cold  weather  closed  the  river  and  they  found  their  plant 
fast  in  the  ice  fifty  miles  from  their  destination.  Nothing 
daunted,  however,  they  caused  their  looms  to  be  loaded  on 
sleighs  and  in  that  primitive  fashion,  after  a  journey  of  fifty 
miles,  arrived  safely  at  Hagaman. 

With  the  Greenes  came  Douglass,  William  Perkins,  and 
William  Wright,  son-in-law  of  Mr.  Perkins,  experienced 
weavers,  but,  like  all  of  the  others  except  Douglass,  knowing 
little  about  the  manufacture  of  carpets. 

After  a  few  years  of  varied  success  at  Hagaman,  the  firm 
was  induced  by  the  advice  of  Mr.  John  Sanford  and  others  to 
move  their  plant  to  Amsterdam  village  and  establish  them- 
selves in  a  long,  low,  yellow  building,  formerly  the  mill  site 


Early  Industries  333 

of  the  sawmill  of  Albert  H.  \''edder,  the  founder  of  Vedders- 
burg,  and  now  occupied  by  the  immense  factory  of  the  Greene 
Knitting  Company.  After  the  change  in  the  location  of  this 
primitive  carpet  factory,  John  Sanford  became  associated  with 
the  Greenes  in  the  manufacture  of  carpets,  and  continued  a 
member  of  the  firm  for  some  time. 

The  old  yellow  mill  was  burned  in  1849.  How  well  I  re- 
member that  cold,  windy,  midwinter  night!  It  being  my  first 
experience  of  a  fire  of  magnitude  is  probably  the  reason  that 
the  occasion  has  made  such  a  lasting  impression  on  my 
memory.  Even  the  weird,  undulatory  clang  of  the  old  Bap- 
tist Church  bell,  as  its  sound,  borne  upon  the  wind,  reached  the 
ear,  from  the  frantic  efforts  of  some  person  unused  to  the 
method  of  ringing  the  alarm,  seemed  to  cry  "  Fire!  fire!! 
fire!!!"  which  sound  was  soon  changed  to  the  harsh,  mean- 
ingless sound  of  a  broken  bell,  as  the  bell  had  indeed  been 
broken  by  the  frantic  efforts  of  the  ringer  to  arouse  the  sleep- 
ers. As  we  reached  the  foot  of  the  hill  the  sight  that  met  my 
inexperienced  eyes  was  grand  and  fearful.  Truly  it  was  a 
light  set  upon  a  hill  that  could  not  be  hid.  The  tongues  of 
flame  borne  to  and  fro  by  the  wind,  the  myriads  of  sparks 
vanishing  in  the  blackness  of  the  heavens,  the  sombre  ever- 
greens on  Cornell's  Hill  fitfully  lighted  by  the  roaring  flames, 
the  creak,  creak  of  the  fire  engine  toiling  up  the  hill  through 
the  rudd}-  whiteness  of  the  snow-covered  street,  the  hoarse 
shouts  and  oaths  of  the  firemen,  the  cries  of  "  Fire!  fire!!  " 
gave  a  nervous  chill  to  the  looker-on  that  was  not  all  at- 
tributable to  the  intensely  cold  night. 

The  building  was  totally  destroyed.  Shortly  afterwards 
Mr.  Sanford  sold  the  land  and  mill  site  to  W.  K.  Greene  (whose 
heirs  are  in  possession  of  the  property  at  the  present  day),  and, 
in  company  with  his  son,  Stephen  Sanford,  fitted  up  an  old 
stone  mill  at  the  head  of  Church  Street  for  a  carpet  factory. 


334  The  Mohawk  Valley 

Jehiel  Dean  also  erected  a  weave  room  on  Livingston 
Street  where  a  box  factory  now  stands,  and  W.  K.  Greene, 
Sr.,  also  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of  carpets  in  a  small  way 
on  the  opposite  side  of  said  street. 

The  building  on  the  north  side  of  the  street  was  afterwards 
bought  by  Mr.  Stephen  Sanford,  and  subsequently  destroyed 
by  fire,  and  the  building  on  the  south  side  was  purchased  by 
John  M.  Clark  and  moved  to  the  corner  of  Livingston  and 
Chuctanunda  Streets  and  used  as  a  carpenter  shop.  This 
building  was  subsequently  burned  and  rebuilt  of  brick,  and 
after  numerous  changes  is  now  known  as  Morris  Mill  No.  3. 

In  1853  the  old  stone  mill,  as  it  was  then  called,  was  de- 
stroyed by  fire  but  was  immediately  rebuilt,  only  one  story 
high,  but  covering  about  three  times  as  much  ground. 

Mr.  Stephen  Sanford  entered  the  carpet  manufactory  in 
1844,  and  in  1848  formed  a  copartnership  with  his  father,  Mr. 
John  Sanford.  After  the  destruction  of  the  old  stone  mill, 
Mr.  Stephen  Sanford  purchased  his  father's  interest,  which 
was  little  else  than  the  ruins  of  the  burned  mill.  He  imme- 
diately set  to  work  rebuilding  and  enlarging  the  factory,  which 
year  by  year  has  increased  in  magnitude  under  his  personal 
supervision. 

As  the  business  prospered,  new  buildings  were  erected  for 
the  manufacture  of  different  materials  that  enter  into  the 
manufacture  of  the  various  kinds  of  carpets  produced  in  these 
mills,  and  for  the  storage  of  raw  material. 

At  present  this  immense  plant  comprises  thirty-six  build- 
ings, whose  floor  space  amounts  to  six  hundred  and  sixty- 
three  thousand  square  feet,  or  about  fifteen  acres. 

When  we  think  that  this  immense  floor  space  is  covered 
with  machinery,  engines,  boilers,  looms,  and  shafting,  to- 
gether with  stock  and  manufactured  product  of  the  mills,  and 
that  the  daily  product  of  the  mill  would  carpet  the  road  from 


Early  Industries 


oo: 


Amsterdam  to  Johnstown,  or  more  than  five  million  yards  in 
a  year,  with  a  pay-roll  of  over  $1,000,000  in  twelve  months, 
we  may  begin  to  conceive  its  magnitude  and  to  feel  additional 
respect  for  the  man  and  mind  that  has  created  and  controls  it. 

I  think  it  is  safe  to  say  that  during  the  last  half-century  at 
least  forty  thousand  persons  have  earned  a  living  and  in  some 
cases  a  competency  in  this  mill.  Some  have  grown  gray 
inside  its  walls;  others  have  built  factories  of  their  own,  and 
have  shown  their  business  ability  by  making  a  success  of 
their  undertaking. 

A  long  list  could  be  made  of  men  holding  prominent  places 
in  the  business  interest  of  our  city  who  served  apprenticeship 
in  the  Sanford  carpet  factory.  Among  them  are  W.  B.  Smith, 
James  T.  Sugden,  William  McCleary,  the  late  John  Howgate, 
Almon  Filkins,  Samuel  Wallin,  John  Grouse,  and  a  host  of 
others,  including  John  Lorrimer  of  Philadelphia. 

I  might  go  on  and  give  statistics  of  the  business  of  this 
mill, — of  the  millions  that  have  been  paid  to  employees 
during  the  last  fifty  years,  of  the  thousands  of  miles  of  carpets 
that  have  been  manufactured  and  the  thousands  of  employees 
who  thus  earn  their  daily  bread,  and  of  the  capital  that  is  re- 
quired to  conduct  this  immense  business;  but  this  has  so  often 
been  written  by  other  pens  than  mine  that  I  shall  refrain 
from  statements  whose  figures,  in  the  language  of  the  old 
Scotchman,  would  only  "  begumble  the  senses  and  confound 
the  imagination,"  and  would  be  revealing  matters  of  a  per- 
sonal character  to  which  the  public  can  claim  no  right, 
although  the  proprietors  might  not  have  any  desire  to  with- 
hold them. 

The  success  of  this  great  business  is  a  matter  of  pride  to 
the  citizens  of  Amsterdam,  from  the  fact  that  not  alone  has 
the  city  been  benefited  by  its  success,  but  private  individuals 
and  organizations  of  all  kinds  have  received  benefit,    by  its 


33^  The  Mohawk  Valley 

enabling  the  proprietors  to  gratify  the  natural  impulse  of  their 
generous  hearts  "  with  hands  open  as  day  to  melting  charity," 

Of  course  there  have  been  seasons  of  depression  in  this 
business,  seasons  that  come  in  the  life  of  most  business  men, 
when  profits  are  light  or  none  at  all,  seasons  when  losses  are 
heavy  and  money  hard  to  get.  But  although  there  have  been 
times  when  money  had  to  be  hired  at  as  large  a  rate  of  interest 
per  month  as  it  can  be  secured  for  now  per  year,  the  pro- 
prietors' paper  has  always  been  paid  at  maturity. 

If  I  should  be  asked  why  this  firm,  which  is  composed  of 
Hon.  Stephen  Sanford  and  his  son,  Hon.  John  Sanford,  has 
succeeded  while  others  have  failed,  I  should  say  that  it  is 
because  the  senior  member  is  possessed  of  seemingly  opposite 
characteristics, — cautiousness  and  boldness;  cautious  not  to 
enter  upon  any  method  of  action  until  he  is  sure  he  is  right, 
and  then  to  execute  the  same  with  boldness  and  energy. 

Up  to  1854  the  product  of  this  mill  was  ingrain  and  three- 
ply  carpets  manufactured  on  hand  looms,  and  as  the  business 
increased  it  gave  employment  to  a  large  number  of  experienced 
weavers.  Previous  to  1849  '^'^  ^^^  frame  building  stood  on 
Main  Street  just  west  of  the  present  site  of  the  Farmers' 
National  Bank,  and  was  used  as  the  post-office  and  law  of^ce 
of  Joseph  French,  who  was  also  postmaster.  Mr.  John  San- 
ford bought  the  post-office  building  and  had  it  carefully  torn 
down  and  re-erected  as  a  loom  shop  next  to  his  buildings  on 
Church  Street.  This  building  was  used  as  a  hand-loom  shop 
for  a  great  number  of  years,  even  after  the  large  mill  build- 
ings had  been  filled  with  power  looms  for  the  manufacture  of 
Brussels  carpets.  In  fact,  this  old  building  was  retained  and 
hand  looms  used  for  a  long  time,  more  for  the  purpose  of 
finding  employment  for  a  number  of  old  and  experienced 
weavers  who  had  been  in  his  employ  for  a  number  of  years 
than  for  any  pecuniary  benefit  to  be  derived  therefrom.     This 


Early  Industries  ZZ7 

old  landmark  was  torn  down  a  few  years  ago  to  make  room  for 
the  large  Axminster  mill  that  now  covers  its  site. 

The  history  of  the  carpet  industry  would  not  be  complete 
if  mention  were  not  made  of  the  carpet  factory  of  Shuttle- 
worth  Brothers.  About  1872  or  1873,  Mr.  James  Wade,  an 
Englishman  of  good  family  connections  in  Bradford,  England, 
was  brought  to  Amsterdam  by  Mr.  Stephen  Sanford  to  do 
some  special  work  in  his  mills.  He  was  a  man  of  education, 
of  fine  personal  appearance,  and  gentlemanly  address,  and 
soon  won  the  confidence  of  some  of  the  business  men  of  that 
place.  With  James  Wade  came  Joseph  Coats,  Elijah  Smith 
and  John  Simpson,  all  experienced  workers  in  the  carpet 
business. 

A  short  time  after  coming  to  Amsterdam,  Mr.  Wade,  in 
company  with  Charles  De  Wolfe,  William  H.  Arnold,  and 
Stephen  H.  Kline,  organized  a  stock  company  for  the  manu- 
facture of  carpets,  and  succeeded  to  the  extent  that  a  building 
was  erected  on  the  bank  of  the  Mohawk  River  at  the  foot  of 
Vrooman  Avenue.  The  factory  was  stocked  with  looms  and 
other  machinery,  but  owing  to  dissensions  among  the  stock- 
holders or  want  of  capital,  it  was  not  run  as  a  stock  company, 
and  soon  passed  into  the  hands  of  Stephen  H.  Kline  and 
William  H.  Arnold,  under  the  firm  name  of  Kline  &  Arnold. 
This  firm  conducted  the  business  a  few  years,  making  Brussels 
carpets,  which  from  various  reasons  did  not  prove  a  success, 
and  the  mill  was  closed.  Subsequently  the  looms  and  machin- 
ery were  sold  by  parties  interested  in  New  York,  and  the 
building  stood  empty  awhile,  or  until  it  was  purchased  by  the 
Shuttleworth  Brothers. 

In    1875    Mr.    William    Shuttleworth,    the    father   of  the 

Shuttleworth  Brothers,"  came  from   England  to  Glenham, 

N.  Y.,  to  start  a  carpet  factory  for  A.  T.  Stewart  &  Co.,  and 

was  made  superintendent  of  the  same,  his  sons,  some  of  whom 


338  The  Mohawk  Valley 

had  grown  to  man's  estate,  being  engaged  in  different  depart- 
ments of  the  mill. 

After  the  death  of  William  Shuttleworth  in  1878, -his  sons 
bought,  of  New  York  parties,  the  carpet-mill  building  on  the 
bank  of  the  Mohawk  at  Amsterdam,  and,  returning  to  Eng- 
land, advantageously  secured  fifteen  looms  for  the  manufacture 
of  body  Brussels  carpet.  The  firm  at  that  time  consisted  of 
James,  John,  and  Walter  Shuttleworth,  who,  together  with 
Herbert,  a  younger  brother,  constituted  a  quartet  in  which 
was  comprised  knowledge,  ability,  and  skill  to  operate  every 
department  of  the  factory. 

The  family  connections  are  quite  extended,  and  many  of 
them  may  be  found  among  the  skilled  workers  in  different 
departments  of  the  mill  and  are  among  the  most  estimable 
residents  of  the  city. 

The  firm  now  consists  of  James,  John,  and  Walter 
Shuttleworth.  The  younger  brother,  Herbert,  has  lately 
established  a  dye-house  on  a  large  scale  in  the  western  part 
of  the  city. 

After  the  burning  of  the  carpet  factory  on  Market  Street 
hill,  W.  K,  Greene,  Senior,  had  a  small  factory  for  the  manu- 
facture of  carpets  in  a  building  on  the  Juchtanunda  Creek  in 
the  rear  of  what  is  now  called  the  Sanford  flats.  He  afterwards 
moved  the  plant  to  the  upper  story  of  a  frame  building  situ- 
ated on  the  south  side  of  Livingston  Street,  the  lower  story 
being  occupied  by  William  Connell  for  the  manufacture  of 
rugs. 

About  1850,  William  K.  Greene,  Jr.,  erected  a  brick  mill 
on  the  site  of  the  old  yellow  mill,  and  in  company  with  Davis 
W,  Shuler  conducted  a  carpet  mill  for  a  short  time,  when 
the  partnership  was  dissolved.  W,  K,  Greene,  Junior,  secured 
the  Harris  property,  erected  a  building  and  moved  the  carpet 
machinery  into   it,    and    conducted   this  business  until    1861, 


Early  Industries  339 

when  he  disposed  of  the  stock  and  machinery  to  Stephen  San- 
ford.  In  1857  he  formed  a  partnership  with  John  McDonald, 
for  the  manufacture  of  knit  goods  in  the  brick  building  which 
is  now  the  centre  of  the  immense  plant  of  the  Greene  Knitting 
Co.  This  partnership  was  dissolved  in  a  year  or  two,  and  Mr. 
Greene  conducted  both  mills  alone  until  i86t,  when,  having 
disposed  of  the  carpet  business  to  Mr.  Stephen  Sanford,  he 
turned  his  whole  attention  to  his  hosiery  business.  The  war 
of  the  rebellion  having  commenced,  a  great  demand  for  knit 
goods  sprung  up,  the  factory  was  run  to  its  full  capacity,  with 
great  profit,  and  soon  it  was  necessary  to  enlarge  the  plant. 
Building  after  building  was  erected,  as  the  business  increased, 
until  the  whole  of  the  present  large  mill  was  completed.  Mr. 
Greene  did  not  live  to  see  it,  however,  as  his  health  failed,  and 
he  went  to  Europe  in  1869,  together  with  his  wife  and  Miss 
Bennett,  in  hopes  that  he  might  derive  some  benefit  from  a 
change  of  climate  and  freedom  from  business  cares. 

The  change,  however,  did  not  have  the  desired  effect,  and 
he  gradually  grew  worse,  and  while  sojourning  at  Rome,  died 
Jan.  22,  1870. 

The  body  was  placed  on  board  a  sailing  vessel,  and  arrived 
at  his  home  during  the  spring  of  1870,  his  family  having  pre- 
viously arrived  by  steamer. 

During  the  absence  of  Mr.  William  K.  Greene  in  Europe 
the  business,  under  the  firm  name  of  William  K.  Greene  & 
Son,  was  conducted  by  the  junior  member  of  the  firm,  Mr. 
Elijah  P.  Greene.  After  the  death  of  Mr.  William  K.  Greene, 
and  the  return  from  Europe  of  his  youngest  son,  Henry  E. 
Greene,  the  style  of  the  firm  was  changed  to  W.  K.  Greene's 
Sons,  and  so  conducted  until  the  death  of  Elijah  P.  Greene, 
when  it  was  changed  to  W,  K.  Greene's  Son  &  Co.,  and  con- 
tinued under  that  name  until  the  death  of  Henry  E.  Greene, 
when  the  present  firm,  The  Greene  Knitting  Co.  was  organized. 


340  The  Mohawk  Valley 

During  the  administration  of  Elijah  P.  and  Henry  E. 
Greene,  the  business  was  enlarged  and  many  improvements 
made.  W.  K.  Greene  has  not  only  the  honor  of  being  the 
first  manufacturer  of  knit  goods  in  Amsterdam,  but  the 
founder  of  what  has  grown  to  be  one  of  the  largest  hosiery 
mills  in  the  city. 

It  is  about  forty-four  years  since  William  K.  Greene  and 
John  McDonald  inaugurated  the  knit-goods  industry  in  Am- 
sterdam, with  what  was  called  a  three-set  mill.  At  present 
there  are  twenty-three  knitting  mills,  with  about  two  hundred 
sets  of  machinery  and  an  annual  output  of  about  12,000,000 
pieces. 

In  1850  William  Connell,  who  had  been  employed  as  an 
overseer  in  the  old  yellow  mill,  secured  an  old  building  on 
Spring  Street  in  the  rear  of  the  building  now  known  as  No.  12 
and  started  the  m.anufacture  of  tufted  rugs,  with  four  looms. 
He  subsequently  moved  to  the  lower  story  of  the  frame  build- 
ing on  Livingston  Street  spoken  of  before,  increasing  his 
plant  to  twelve  looms.  Somewhat  later  he  removed  to  the 
old  post-ofifice  building  on  Church  Street,  the  property  of  Mr. 
Sanford.  Still  later  the  looms  were  purchased  by  Mr.  Stephen 
Sanford  and  used  for  weaving  ingrain  carpets. 

I  remember  well  the  Livingston  Street  mill,  as  I  had  occa- 
sion to  pass  it  quite  frequently  in  those  days.  Nearly  all  the 
hands  that  were  employed  were  boys  from  twelve  to  twent)' 
years  old,  and  they  always  seemed  to  have  a  good  time  at  their 
work,  and  some  of  them  were  always  ready  to  play  with  the 
passers-by. 

The  names  of  some  of  the  boys  will  be  recognized  as  well- 
known  residents  of  Amsterdam.  Among  others  were  Samuel 
Ward,  Hiram  Simmons,  Fountain  Ward,  Edward  Fosmire, 
Frank  Fosmire,  Dennis  Garrigan,  James  Faulds,  Walter 
McCowatt,      David     McCowatt,     Daniel     Mutimer,     Walter 


Early  Industries  34i 

Mitchell,   Tunis  Peck,   John   Nevins,   James  McNally,   James 
Mailor,  Wm.  Mailor,  and  "  Puffy  "  Clark. 

"  Puffy  "  was  a  little  barefooted  Irish  lad,  generally  clad 
in  a  cotton  shirt,  and  a  pair  of  trousers  with  one  suspender. 
He  was  a  bright  little  fellow,  and  was  very  much  interested  in 
the  prize  fight  between  Tom  Hyer  and  Yankee  Sullivan,  which 
was  fought  about  that  time,  and  was  ever  ready  to  stand  up 
before  any  boy  of  his  size  to  show  his  knowledge  of  the 
"  noble"  art  of  self-defence.  Quite  a  friendship  sprung  up 
between  "  Puffy  "  and  myself,  something  of  the  Tom  Sawyer 
and  Huckleberry  Finn  kind.  I  remember  that  I  admired  him 
and  was  proud  of  his  friendship,  and  envied  him  his  accomplish- 
ments, which,  in  addition  to  his  willingness  to  fight,  with  or 
without  provocation,  consisted  of  the  art  of  swearing  like  a 
trooper,  and  chewing  tobacco  like  a  sailor,  although  only 
fourteen  years  old.  What  became  of  "  Puffy  "  in  after-years 
I  do  not  know,  but  I  have  always  remembered  his  little  pale 
face  and  ready  fist. 

A  desire  to  emulate  "  Puffy's  "  virtues  and  to  be  more 
worthy  of  his  notice,  led  me  to  try  and  learn  to  chew  tobacco. 
My  father  was  quite  a  smoker,  and  kept  his  tobacco  in  his 
office  on  a  high  shelf  out  of  my  reach,  but  I  was  frequently 
sent  to  the  store  for  a  fresh  supply.  Having  decided  to  learn 
to  chew,  I  boldly  went  to  the  store  one  day  and  bought  a 
paper  of  tobacco  and  had  it  charged  to  my  father.  I  remem- 
ber that  the  tobacco  was  inclosed  in  the  dull  blue  paper  used 
in  those  days,  with  the  words  "  Ben  Payn's  Smoking  To- 
bacco "  and  two  crossed  pipes  printed  thereon. 

In  the  rear  of  the  store  was  a  pile  of  lumber,  back  of  which 
I  went  and  put  some  tobacco  in  my  mouth,  hid  the  paper 
under  the  boards,  and  chewed  my  quid  like  a  little  man. 

It  was  not  long  before  I  felt  that  I  did  not  like  the  weed  as 
well  as  I  thought  I  would,  and  was  glad  to  throw  away  the 


342  The  Mohawk  Valley 

nasty  stuff.  By  the  time  I  arrived  at  home  I  was  pale  and 
dizzy,  and  soon  attracted  the  attention  of  my  mother.  Those 
who  have  had  a  similar  experience  will  appreciate  the  various 
degrees  of  misery  through  which  I  passed,  and  the  anxiety  of 
my  mother  over  the  strange  symptoms  that  successively  pre- 
sented themselves.  The  throes  of  the  stomach  were  aug- 
mented by  the  stings  of  conscience,  when  I  thought  of  the 
whole  wretched  business,  and  I  was  willing  to  vow  that  I 
would  never  look  at  a  bit  of  tobacco  again  as  long  as  I  lived. 

Thus  ended  my  attempt  to  become  a  tobacco  chewer,  and 
not  even  "  Puffy  "  Clark  was  told  of  my  failure.  It  was  many 
long  years  before  I  again  touched  tobacco  in  any  form. 

William  Connell  is  remembered  as  a  scholarly  man,  a  great 
reader  and  a  profound  thinker.  He  married  Miss  Nancy 
Merrill,  a  sister  of  the  late  Mrs.  Tunis  I.  Van  Derveer.  After 
selling  out  his  rug  business  he  opened  a  small  store  on  the 
north  side  of  Main  Street,  near  the  creek.  This  store  became 
the  resort  of  many  of  the  intellectual  residents  of  the  village, 
and  was  often  the  scene  of  many  spirited  debates.  He  died 
in  1866  at  the  age  of  fifty-nine. 

In  1886,  John  Howgate,  William  McCleary,  Samuel  Wal- 
lin  and  David  Grouse,  former  employees  in  the  Sanford  & 
Sons'  carpet  factory,  formed  a  copartnership  for  the  manufac- 
ture of  rugs,  securing  a  building  on  the  east  side  of  Bridge 
Street  in  Port  Jackson.  During  the  same  year  the  building 
was  destroyed  by  fire. 

Securing  a  building  at  Rockton  which  had  formerly  been 
occupied  as  a  shoddy  mill,  they  moved  what  was  left  of  their 
plant,  and  were  soon  in  order  for  business,  with  twenty-five 
hand  looms  for  weaving  rugs. 

From  that  time  to  the  present,  the  enterprise  seems  to 
have  been  a  continued  success.  During  1897  it  was  found 
necessary  to   erect  another  large    three-story  brick    building 


Early  Industries  343 

some  distance  from  the  others.  This  building  is  fitted  with 
power  looms  which  are  run  by  electricity,  transmitted  by 
cable  from  a  large  dynamo  situated  in  one  of  the  older 
buildings.  This  method  of  transmitting  power  on  a  large 
scale  is  new  in  Amsterdam,  and  is  interesting  in  the  perfect 
success  of  the  enterprise. 

It  will  probably  surprise  most  of  my  readers  to  know 
that  at  present  the  factory  is  fitted  with  185  looms,  employs 
three  hundred  and  twenty  hands,  and  manufactures  3000  rugs 
per  week,  or  an  annual  output  of  over  150,000  rugs,  valued 
at  about  three-quarters  of  a  million  dollars. 


Chapter  XIX 

Old  Indian   Names   and   Sites  —  The    Legend  of 
Little  Falls 

THERE  is  more  or  less  speculation  about  the  origin  of 
the  word  Caughnawaga,  the  popular  impression  being 
that  it  was  the  name  of  a  tribe  of  Indians  that  were 
located  near  the  present  site  of  Fonda.  This  cannot 
be,  as  there  never  was  a  tribe  of  Indians  of  that  name,  but  it 
may  have  been  a  corruption  of  two  words,  Gandawague,  the 
name  of  an  Indian  village  of  the  time  of  Isaac  Jogues,  and 
probably  located  near  Kline,  and  Ca-han-i-a-ga,  the  distinctive 
name  of  the  Mohawks.  (Of  course  you  are  aware  that  the 
word  "  Mohawk  "  is  not  Indian  at  all,  because  there  were  no 
labials — /;,  /,  ni  —  in  the  Mohawk  language ;  but  it  is  un- 
doubtedly what  was  called  "  Mohawk  Dutch.") 

There  is  another  definition  of  the  word  Caughnawaga, 
which  seems  to  me  to  be  the  correct  one.  Between  1667  and 
1669,  the  French  Jesuit  Fathers  Pierron,  Bruyas,  and  Fremin 
were  successful  in  converting  a  number  of  the  Iroquois  to 
Christianity.  Father  J.  Wynne  of  the  order  of  Jesuits  of 
New  York  City  in  a  recent  letter  says:  "  You  will  notice  that 
it  was  the  policy  of  the  fathers  to  withdraw  the  Christian  In- 
dians from  the  Indians  still  unconverted,  all  along  the  valley, 
from  the  lower  Mohawk  castle  as  far  as  the  Onondaga." 

The  "  Praying  Indians,"  as  they  were  called,  were  located 
near  the  Lachine  Rapids  on  the  St.  Lawrence  and  the  village 
named  La  Prairie  by  the  French  and  Caughnawaga  ("  at  the 

344 


Old  Indian  Names  and  Sites  345 

Rapids")  by  the  Indians j  and  although  the  settlement  was 
composed  of  Indians  from  the  Canadian  tribes  and  the  tribes  of 
the  Iroquois  Confederacy,  among  whom  was  the  great  Mohawk 
chief,  Krin,  they  were  always  called  Caughnawagas,  or  Praying 
Indians.  At  the  burning  of  Schenectady  there  were  sixteen 
Algonquins,  and  one  hundred  and  fourteen  Frenchmen,  and 
eighty  Caughnawagas  or  Praying  Indians,  led  by  Krin,  the  Mo- 
hawk chief.  It  will  be  seen  that  although  the  name  may  mean 
and  probably  does  mean  "at  the  Rapids,"  it  does  not  refer  to 
rapids  in  the  Mohawk,  but  to  the  site  on  the  St,  Lawrence  at 
the  Lachine  Rapids.  The  Dutch  named  their  early  settlement 
near  Fonda  Caughnawaga,  thereby  transferring  a  word  that  be- 
longed to  the  St,  Lawrence  River  to  the  Mohawk  Valley.  The 
Dutch  settlement  was  located  at  the  eastern  end  of  the  present 
site  of  the  village  of  Fonda,  the  old  Caughnawaga  church 
erected  in  1763  and  demolished  in  1868  probably  being  the 
centre  of  the  old  settlement.  Investigations  by  archaeologists 
of  the  Mohawk  Valley  have  brought  to  light  the  site  of  an  In- 
dian village,  which  is  also  called  Caughnawaga  or  Gan-da-wa- 
gua,  situated  on  the  sand  flats  west  of  the  village  of  Fonda. 
A  desire  to  see  the  old  Indian  site  was  the  object  of  a  recent 
visit  to  Fonda  by  the  writer. 

Inquiry  of  many  persons  young  and  old  failed  to  elicit  the 
desired  information  as  to  its  locality,  and  an  accidental  meet- 
ing with  the  Rev.  Washington  Frothingham  seemed  providen- 
tial, as  he  possessed  the  requisite  knowledge  of  its  location  and 
kindly  imparted  the  same.  Following  his  direction  I  visited 
the  sand  flat  where  it  is  said  to  have  been  situated.  Ac- 
customed to  flats  of  the  Mohawk  Valley  which  lay  along  the 
river  and  are  frequently  covered  with  water  in  spring  and 
during  heavy  rainstorms,  I  was  somewhat  surprised  to  find 
the  sand  flats  on  what  is  called  the  four-hundred-feet  plateau. 
I  enjoyed  the  tramp  to  this  elevated  plateau,  and  was  charmed 


34^  The  Mohawk  Valley 

with  its  level,  fertile  fields  and  its  fringe  of  forest  trees  that 
partially  obstructs  the  view  to  the  east  and  to  the  north,  while 
to  the  west  and  south  the  landscape  reminded  me  of  the 
words  of  Byron's  Dt'cain — "  A  gentle  hill  green  and  of  mild 
declivity,  the  last  as  it  were  the  cape  of  a  long  ridge  of  such, 
save  that  there  was  no  sea  to  lave  its  base,  but  a  most  living 
landscape,  and  the  wave  of  woods  and  fields  of  grain,  and  the 
abodes  of  men  scattered  at  intervals,  and  wreathing  smoke 
arising  from  such  rustic  roofs  " — and  in  the  distance  the  glis- 
tering, shimmering  Mohawk. 

Although  unsuccessful  in  my  search  for  the  exact  location 
of  the  site  of  the  ancient  village,  I  felt  well  repaid  for  my 
walk,  notwithstanding  the  dusty  road  and  excessive  heat  that 
brought  my  blood  nearly  to  the  boiling-point.  At  a  subse- 
quent date,  having  informed  myself  of  the  exact  site,  from  a 
map  drawn  by  the  Rev.  C.  A.  Walworth,  and  published  in 
Miss  Walworth's  Lily  of  the  Mokaivks,  I  continued  my  search 
in  company  with  Prof.  J.  A.  Maney. 

Starting  from  the  railroad  depot  our  attention  was  attracted 
to  the  old  Fonda  Hotel,  its  facade  of  Ionic  columns  suggesting 
the  idea  of  a  Grecian  temple.  It  is  quite  an  ambitious  struc- 
ture, and  must  have  presented  a  very  impressive  appearance 
at  the  time  of  its  construction,  in  1835,  from  its  isolation  and 
the  poverty  of  its  surroundings.  A  suggestion  of  the  same 
style  of  architecture  is  also  seen  in  the  old  court-house,  south 
of  the  New  York  Central  Railroad. 

Our  route  to  Caughnawaga  and  Tekakwitha  spring  led  us 
up  Main  Street  to  the  Cayadutta  Creek,  which  we  followed 
along  its  eastern  bank  until  we  came  to  a  white  bridge  span- 
ning the  creek.  The  bridge  seems  to  have  been  constructed 
for  private  use  as  the  road  leading  from  it  ended  in  a  farm- 
yard. As  we  were  nearing  our  destination  and  desiring  more 
definite  information,  we  accosted  a  sturdy  young  man  we  met 


TKKAKWITHA   SPKING,    FONDA 


347 


Old  Indian  Names  and  Sites  349 

as  follows:  "  Excuse  me,  sir,  do  you  reside  near  here?" 
Yes,  sir."  "  Have  you  lived  here  long  ?  "  "  About  seven 
or  eight  years."  "  Do  you  know  where  the  site  of  the  old 
Indian  village,  Caughnawaga,  is  located  ? "  "  No,  sir,  I 
never  heard  of  it."  "  Did  you  ever  hear  of  a  spring  near 
here  called  Tekakwitha  spring  ?  "  "No,  sir. "  The  Professor 
smiled  as  we  passed  on,  remarking  that  we  were  having  our 
usual  success.  In  the  farmyard  we  met  a  man  whose  slow 
step,  bent  form,  and  gray  hair  seemed  to  indicate  a  septua- 
genarian. After  the  usual  preliminary  greeting  I  inquired: 
Have  you  lived  here  long  ?  "  "  Over  sixty  years."  "  Did 
you  ever  hear  of  a  spring  called  Tekakwitha  spring  ?  " 
No."  "  Do  you  know  where  the  site  of  the  old  Indian  vil- 
lage, Caughnawaga,  is  ?  "  "  That  is  down  that  way,"  pointing 
to  the  east,  "  but  they  say  that  there  are  some  Indian  graves 
up  on  the  sand  flats,"  "  Can  you  tell  us  where  ?  "  "  Up  on 
the  top  of  the  hill,  but  I  don't  know  just  where." 

The  Professor  again  smiled  and  we  again  passed  on,  re- 
marking that  we  would  have  to  trust  to  the  map.  Rain-drops 
were  beginning  to  fall,  but  not  daunted  in  the  least  we  fol- 
lowed the  track  of  the  F.  J.  &  G.  R.  R.  along  the  high  ground 
on  the  west  for  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  until  we  came  to  a 
point  where  the  Sand  Flat  Hill  recedes  from  the  railroad  in  the 
form  of  a  half-circle,  forming  a  level  swampy  field  partly 
covered  with  brush  and  berry  bushes.  Following  an  indistinct 
path  through  this  tangled  mass,  which  led  us  in  an  erratic 
manner  up  and  down  the  slope  and  through  the  swamp,  we 
came  at  last  to  a  wooded  ravine  at  the  head  of  the  circle. 
A  barbed  wire  fence  was  safely  passed  and  we  found  ourselves 
in  a  small  grove,  and,  about  half-way  up  the  hill,  came  upon 
Tekakwitha  spring.  With  a  great  expansion  of  imagination 
we  pictured  the  young  Indian  maiden  in  the  scanty  dress  of 
Indian  childhood,  picking  her  way  down  the  steep  woodland 


350  The  Mohawk  Valley 

path  from  the  plateau  above,  with  a  rude  earthen  jar  to  be  filled 
at  the  spring  below.  Perhaps  other  children  of  both  sexes  were 
following  her,  while  at  the  spring  crouches  a  painted  warrior 
drinking  in  a  primitive  way  of  its  cool  water.  Near  by  stands 
a  dirty,  unkempt  squaw,  cooling  her  feet  in  the  stream  that 
ripples  down  the  hillside  on  its  way  to  the  Cayadutta  Creek, 
while  all  around,  the  earth  has  been  trodden  bare  by  the 
coming  and  going  of  many  feet  from  the  village  on  the  flat 
above,  and  broken  branches  and  dead  leaves  choke  the  mur- 
mur of  the  waters. 

To-day  the  stream  is  marked  by  the  impress  of  the  hoofs 
of  the  kine  of  the  valley  below,  and  scattered  about  are  broken 
pieces  of  decaying  fence  boards,  an  old  tin  pail,  a  bit  of  red 
tile,  and  two  narrow  planks  doing  duty  as  a  bridge  near  the 
spring.  The  spring  itself  issues  from  under  the  roots  of  a 
white  birch  tree,  whose  leafy  branches  bend  over  the  spring 
as  if  to  guard  it  from  the  rays  of  the  sun.  The  gnarled  and 
tangled  roots  of  the  parent  tree  remind  one  of  the  ten- 
tacles of  a  huge  octopus,  as  they  stretch  out  over  and  into 
the  black  depths  of  the  spring  itself.  Nature,  with  the  aid  of 
art,  would  make  this  little  vale  a  beautiful  spot.  The  Profes- 
sor, who  took  a  snapshot  of  the  spring  and  its  surroundings, 
and  who  has  a  reputation  of  producing  gems  of  beauty  from 
the  most  incongruous  elements,  succeeded  in  making  a  very 
fine  photograph  of  this  secluded  spot. 

We  were  nearing  the  end  of  our  search  for  the  Indian  vil- 
lage, and  climbing  the  steep  path  out  of  the  ravine,  we 
reached  the  sand  flat  and  the  field  wherein  the  site  of  Caughna- 
waga  is  said  to  be.  Diligent  search  failed  to  find  any  evidence 
of  the  old  village,  as  the  woodman's  axe  and  the  ploughshare 
have  long  ago  obliterated  all  trace  of  palisade  and  Indian 
sepulture.  Previous  search  and  examination,  together  with 
the   finding   of  evidences  of  Indian  occupation,  have  estab- 


THE    FALLS    OF   THE    CANAJOHARiE 


351 


Old  Indian  Names  and  Sites  353 

lished  the  fact,  however,  that  this  spot  was  the  site  of  old 
Caughnawaga. 

Kateri  Tekakwitha  was  an  Indian  maiden  born  at  Ganda- 
waga  (Caughnawaga)  in  1656,  Her  mother  was  a  Huron 
captive  and  her  father  a  Mohawk  chief.  At  an  early  age  she 
embraced  Christianity,  and  in  1675  was  baptized  by  the  Jesuit 
Father  de  Lamberville.  Shortly  after,  she  fled  to  Canada  to 
escape  the  persecution  of  the  Mohawks,  on  account  of  her 
religion.  Her  route  is  said  to  have  been  along  the  Chucta- 
nunda  Creek  at  Amsterdam,  and  her  destination  Caughnawaga, 
at  the  Lachine  Rapids,  on  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  where  she 
arrived  in  the  autumn  of  1677.  She  died  April  17,  1680,  at 
the  age  of  twenty-four. 

In  Miss  Walworth's  Lily  of  the  Mohawks,  the  story  of  her 
life  is  told. 

A  few  months  ago  I  was  riding  in  a  drawing-room  car  on 
the  New  York  Central  Railroad  through  the  Mohawk  Valley. 
In  the  same  car  was  a  small  party  of  gentlemen  and  ladies, 
and  it  was  apparent  from  their  conversation  and  personal  ap- 
pearance that  they  were  well-to-do,  educated  people,  from 
one  of  our  Western  States,  making  their  first  trip  through  the 
valley  of  the  Mohawk.  It  was  very  interesting  to  note  their 
enthusiasm  over  the  rocks  and  hills,  after  a  lifelong  residence 
on  the  flat  lands  of  their  Western  prairies,  as  they  would  call 
their  companions'  attention  to  a  picturesque  group  of  rocks  or 
the  wooded  slope  of  some  slight  elevation.  Unconsciously 
my  eyes  would  follow  the  direction  of  their  gaze,  and  would 
become  aware  of  charming  bits  of  scenery  that  through 
familiarity  with  the  banks  of  the  Mohawk  I  had  passed  many 
times  without  comprehension. 

From  being  interested  in  their  evident  enjoyment  of  the 
scenes  they  were  so  swiftly  passing  through,  I  became  in- 
terested in  the  scenery  itself,  and  discovered  many  beauties 
23 


354  The  Mohawk  Valley 

in  the  valley  of  my  lifelong  home  that  I  had  overlooked  or 
had  become  so  familiar  with  that  they  were,  in  a  measure, 
rocks,  and  hills,  and  streamlets,  and  nothing  more.  Since 
that  day  I  have  looked  upon  the  scenery  of  the  valley  with 
the  eye  of  an  enthusiast,  and  have  found  beauty  in  every 
bend  of  the  river  and  in  every  ripple  of  its  riffs  and  shallows. 

Here  and  there  throughout  the  valley  numerous  tributaries 
flow  into  the  river,  some  of  them  being  large,  permanent 
streams,  others  mere  rivulets,  magnified  into  torrents  at  every 
considerable  rainstorm. 

In  many  of  the  ravines  or  gorges  through  which  these 
smaller  streams  flow  are  hidden  charming  bits  of  scenery, 
some  of  which  might  be  dignified  by  the  word  "  sublime."  I 
have  in  mind  the  ravine  through  which  Lewis  Creek  runs, 
which  I  visited  with  Charles  Newman  of  Cranesville.  As 
before  stated,  this  creek  is  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  land 
which  was  purchased  by  Lewis  Groot  in  171 5  (who  was  one 
of  the  first  purchasers  of  land  in  the  town  of  Amsterdam), 
and  named  Adriutha,  and  known  as  Cranesville. 

There  are  many  objects  of  interest  in  this  ravine,  one  of 
which  is  a  very  large  spring  that  is  situated  at  the  base  of  the 
hill  about  three  hundred  feet  from  the  turnpike. 

The  volume  of  water  issuing  from  this  spring  was  sufficient 
to  furnish  the  requisite  power  for  the  primitive  mill  erected  by 
Groot  in  1730,  on  the  site  of  the  old  building  now  known  as 
Swart's  mill.  At  the  present  time  there  are  the  ruins  of  two  old 
mill-dams  between  the  mill  and  the  spring,  the  woodwork  of 
the  structure  having  decayed  and  almost  entirely  disappeared. 
The  dam  nearest  the  spring  is  the  smaller  of  the  two  and 
seems  to  have  received  the  water  from  the  spring  alone.  The 
sides  and  front  of  the  dam  are  earth  embankments,  but  the 
face  or  pour  is  reinforced  by  a  dry  wall  of  flat  stones.  This 
stone  front  is  further  reinforced  by  stone  buttresses  on  each 


Old  Indian  Names  and  Sites  355 

side  in  the  shape  of  a  quarter-circle,  while  in  the  face  of  the 
front  wall  is  a  square  opening  or  gate  with  rotten  wood  facings, 
evidently  used  to  discharge  the  water  into  the  lower  dam. 
The  lower  dam  is  constructed  of  earth  and  stone,  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  upper  one,  but  without  the  stone  buttresses, 
the  two  together  being  capable  of  storing  quite  a  respectable 
quantity  of  water.  The  gray,  or  rather  almost  black,  stone 
walls  are  moss-grown  and  in  various  other  ways  give  evidence 
of  their  age,  which  is  "  nigh  onto  "  one  hundred  and  seventy 
years. 

The  spring  itself  will  warrant  more  than  a  passing  notice. 
Care  was  taken  ages  ago  to  wall  it  up  on  three  sides,  making 
an  enclosure  about  six  feet  square,  in  the  center  of  which  the 
water  boils  as  though  forced  from  below,  in  a  quantity  that 
would  fill  an  eight-  or  ten-inch  pipe,  and  from  the  situation  of 
the  dams  it  would  appear  as  though  the  water  from  the  creek, 
which  is  some  distance  away,  was  excluded  from  the  dams. 
Probably  because  the  flow  of  water  in  the  stream  was  small 
except  in  storms,  when  it  became  a  torrent. 

Penetrating  the  ravine  a  little  farther,  over  a  rugged  path, 
we  find  that  Lewis  Creek  is  made  up  of  two  streams,  one  from 
the  east  and  another  from  a  northerly  direction,  the  acclivity 
of  the  banks  of  both  ravines  being  almost  insurmountable. 
Entering  the  bed  of  the  stream  which  flows  from  the  northerly 
direction  we  become  aware  of  an  obstacle  in  our  path  that  it 
will  be  impossible  to  overcome,  which  is  the  sheer  precipice, 
of  perhaps  fifty  feet  in  height,  of  Adriutha  Falls.  I  would 
say  that  this  name,  Adriutha,  is  applied  to  the  falls  probably 
for  the  first  time,  as  it  is  usually  spoken  of  by  the  homely 
name  of  Buttermilk  Falls,  although  the  application  is  not 
evident. 

All  this  locality  between  Lewis  Creek  and  Eva's-kill  was 
called  Adirutha  or  Adriuche,  and  this  name  is  mentioned  in  the 


35^  The  Mohawk  Valley 

transfer  of  this  parcel  of  land,  and  flats  and  woodland  directly 
opposite  at  Kline,  the  supposed  site  of  On-e-ka-gonc-ka,  to 
Hendrick  Cuyler  in  1686.  I  would  therefore  ask  the  public 
to  accept  the  name  "  Adriutha  Falls,"  for  this  picturesque 
feature  of  nature  in  this  wild  gorge,  instead  of  the  wholly  in- 
appropriate name  "  Buttermilk  Falls  "  ;  also  to  apply  it  to  the 
large  spring  in  the  glen,  "  Adriutha  Spring."  I  have  been 
told  that  in  the  spring,  and  in  rainstorms,  the  falls  are  a 
beautiful  sight;  but  for  the  greater  part  of  the  year  no  water 
falls  over  this  precipice. 

Reaching  the  top  of  the  cliff  from  another  direction  we 
find  that  about  fifty  feet  from  the  brink  is  another  fall,  about 
ten  feet  high,  that  cannot  be  seen  from  the  bed  of  the  creek 
below.  Water  is  running  over  this  cascade,  but  disappears 
before  it  reaches  the  brink  of  the  precipice.  The  ascent  to 
the  top  of  the  banks  of  the  ravine  is  somewhat  tiresome,  but 
if  the  climber  enjoys  the  picturesque  features  of  nature  he  will 
be  well  paid  for  his  labor.  About  one  hundred  feet  below 
the  precipice,  at  one  side  of  the  gorge,  is  a  very  large  boulder 
which  geologists  will  probably  say  was  deposited  where  it  now 
rests  during  the  glacial  period.  Over  this  boulder  and  on 
the  cliffs  that  constitute  the  rocky  bank  of  the  stream,  honey- 
suckles are  growing,  the  profusion  of  the  many-pointed  purple 
flowers  adding  a  charming  bit  of  color  to  the  gray  rocks  that 
seem  to  be  incapable  of  affording  the  requisite  nourishment  to 
this  hardy  climber. 

The  branch  of  the  stream  from  the  east  is  broken  by  many 
cascades,  and  the  banks  of  the  ravine  are  quite  abrupt,  but  at 
one  point  a  steep  ridge  or  spur,  sometimes  called  a  "  hog's 
back,"  is  seen,  with  a  well-worn  path  from  creek  to  summit. 
The  acclivity  would  be  very  difficult  if  it  were  not  for  trees 
and  saplings  to  assist  the  climber  along  its  narrow  ridge.  My 
principle  object  in  visiting  this  ravine  was  to  find,  if  possible, 


ADRIUTHA    FALLS,    CRANESVILLE 


35: 


Old  Indian  Names  and  Sites  359 

some  evidence  of  Indian  occupation.  I  had  been  told  by 
some  of  the  residents  on  the  top  of  Swart's  Hill  that  there 
were  a  number  of  holes  or  depressions  in  the  ground  along  the 
ravine  that  were  objects  of  interest  on  account  of  the  mys- 
tery surrounding  them,  and  their  evident  ancient  origin.  It 
had  been  suggested  that  they  had  probably  been  used  as  corn 
pits  by  the  aborigines.  A  thorough  search  along  the  eastern 
bank  failed  to  reveal  them,  but  ashes  and  charcoal  were  found 
five  or  six  inches  under  the  earth  on  the  eastern  brink  of  the 
ravine  at  the  point  where  the  path  or  trail  on  the  "  hog's 
back  "  reached  its  summit. 

Unexpectedly,  I  found  the  holes  near  the  Adriutha  Falls, 
on  the  western  bank,  but  in  such  numbers  that  they  could 
hardly  have  been  used  as  corn-pits.  Instead  of  four  for  five 
holes,  I  found  fifteen  near  the  western  slope  of  the  ravine,  in 
an  irregular  regularity  that  would  indicate  that  they  had  been 
dug  for  a  purpose,  but  for  what  object  I  was  unable  to  decide. 
A  thorough  examination  of  a  few  of  these  holes  may  solve  the 
problem. 

It  may  be  thought  that  I  am  spending  a  good  deal  of  time 
in  investigations  that  cannot  possibly  bring  any  fee  or  reward 
from  a  financial  point  of  view.  That  is  probably  true;  but 
there  is  a  matter  of  great  historical  interest  connected  with 
the  location  of  a  large  Indian  village  that  undoubtedly  existed 
on  the  banks  of  the  Mohawk  River  between  Amsterdam  and 
Schenectady.  The  early  history  of  the  Mohawks  is  shrouded 
in  mystery.  Even  the  exact  location  of  their  castles  at  the 
time  of  the  discovery  of  the  Hudson  River  (in  1609)  is  still  a 
matter  of  conjecture.  Before  the  discovery  of  Van  Curler's 
journal  of  1634,  all  or  nearly  all  of  the  researches  of  archaeo- 
logists were  directed  to  points  above  Schoharie  River,  and 
theories  were  built  up  to  prove  that  as  early  as  1642  the  first 
Mohawk  castle  was  located  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Schoharie. 


;6o  The  Mohawk  Valley 


The  only  knowledge  we  have  of  that  early  period  is  obtained 
from  the  Relations  of  the  Jesuits,  the  statement  of  some  of  the 
Hollanders  at  Fort  Orange,  and,  in  1666.  the  account  of  De 
Courcelle  and  De  Tracy's  expedition  to  the  Mohawk  country, 
at  which  time  they  destroyed  the  four  forts  or  castles  of  the 
Mohawks,  and  in  all  these  accounts  I  can  find  nothing  to  con- 
tradict the  theory  that  the  first  castle  was  located  between  the 
city  of  Amsterdam  and  the  village  of  Pattersonville.  That 
many  of  the  Mohawks  frequented  the  north  bank  of  the  Mo- 
hawk in  that  locality,  is  shown  by  the  numerous  relics  that 
are  found  along  the  flats  and  first  range  of  hills  north  of  the 
river. 

The  location  of  an  Indian  site  is  the  object  of  our  search, 
and  the  residents  of  the  valley  will  assist  materially  by  re- 
porting their  "  finds,"  or  any  embankments  or  holes  of  ancient 
origin  they  may  have  discovered  in  their  immediate  vicinity. 
The  finding  of  flint  or  stone  implements,  ancient  pottery, 
fresh-water  clam-shells,  burnt  stone,  ashes,  and  charcoal  at  a 
little  distance  under  ground,  has  often  led  to  the  discovery 
of  the  ancient  site  of  an  Indian  village.  What  I  mean  by 
ancient,  is  a  village  that  existed  previously  to  1609,  or  perhaps 
as  late  as  1666, 

In  all  the  early  maps  of  the  Mohawks'  country,  Vander- 
donk's  of  1655,  Visscher's  of  1656,  or  the  Jesuit  map  of  1665, 
although  the  three  or  four  Mohawk  castles  are  depicted 
thereon,  the  Schoharie,  which  might  well  be  called  a  river 
where  it  enters  the  Mohawk,  is  not  shown  on  any  of  them. 
If  it  was  located  between  Fort  Orange  and  the  castles  or 
Indian  villages,  it  ought  to  have  been  known  to  the  map- 
makers,  especially  as  the  little  Maiiaville  pond  is  shown  on 
two  of  these  maps.  Therefore  we  are  inclined  to  look  for 
three  of  the  Mohawk  castles  of  the  above  date  below  Schoharie 
River. 


Glacial  Period  in  the  Valley  3^3 

I  have  no  intention  of  posing  as  a  scientist,  but  a  recent 
visit  to  the  picturesque  little  city  of  Little  Falls,  with  its  vast 
jumble  of  ragged  rocks  and  high,  water-worn  cliffs,  turned  my 
attention  to  the  probable  cause  of  the  natural  phenomena  so 
plainly  visible  at  the  rocky  city  of  the  upper  Mohawk. 

As  early  as  1840  Prof.  Louis  Agassiz,  the  noted  naturalist, 
advanced  the  theory  that  the  northern  part  of  North 
America  during  the  glacial  period,  was  covered  with  an 
ice-cap  which  reached  as  far  south  as  the  fortieth  parallel  of 
latitude,  and  north  to  the  utmost  limit  of  the  earth.  This 
included  all  of  New  York  State  to  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  The 
time  of  this  period  no  man  knows,  or  will  ever  know;  but  it 
was  eons  upon  eons  ago.  The  movement  of  the  glacier, 
whose  great  weight  and  impetus  were  irresistible,  was  toward 
the  sea,  and  in  its  journey  it  carved  out  valleys  and  converted 
jagged  rocks  into  polished  boulders,  which  were  in  some  cases 
carried  hundreds  of  miles  and  deposited  in  valleys  and  on 
mountain  tops. 

In  the  vicinity  of  the  Adirondacks  and  the  White  Moun- 
tains this  glacier  was  more  than  a  mile  high,  while  in  British 
America  its  estimated  thickness  was  about  two  miles.  This 
immense  body  of  ice  increased  gradually  from  age  to  age, 
from  north  to  south,  and  as  gradually  disappeared  from  south 
to  north.  The  valley  of  the  Mohawk  was  probably  formed 
by  part  of  this  great  stream  of  ice  denuding  the  hillsides  and 
disrupting  mountains. 

As  the  ice-cap  receded  from  the  sea,  it  left  the  valley  of  the 
Hudson  bare,  which  became  the  means  by  which  its  melting 
body  was  conveyed  to  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  Gradually  the 
valley  of  the  Mohawk  was  uncovered,  and  the  ice  receded  to 
the  vicinity  of  Lake  Ontario,  while  yet  the  ice  barrier  blocked 
the  St.  Lawrence  Valley,  forcing  the  Lake  Ontario  depression 
to  fill  and  the  waters  to  extend  in  every  direction  except  the 


364  The  Mohawk  Valley 

north,  until  it  found  relief  at  Rome,  New  York,  and  the 
Mohawk  Valley  became  the  only  outlet  to  the  sea  of  the 
great  Lake  Iroquois,  or  Ontario,  and  Lake  Spencer,  as 
the  enlarged  basin  of  Lakes  Superior,  Michigan,  Huron,  and 
Erie  combined  has  been  called.  Some  of  the  water  found 
its  way  to  the  Mississippi  Valley  at  Chicago;  but  the  greater 
part  flowed  through  the  Mohawk  Valley.  This  continued 
until  the  St.  Lawrence  Valley  was  relieved  of  the  glacier 
(which  continued  to  waste  slowly  at  both  ends),  and  the 
waters  of  the  great  lakes  found  their  natural  outlet  to  the  sea 
by  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  the  Mohawk  Valley  was  relieved  of 
this  vast  accumulation  of  waters.  The  above  theory  has  been 
gathered  from  a  monograph  on  Lake  Agassiz,  by  Warren 
Upham,  and  published  by  the  director  of  the  United  States 
Geological  Survey  in  vol.  xxv. 

On  the  beautiful  Sunday  afternoon  and  evening  that  I 
wandered  about  the  rockbound  city  of  Little  Falls,  I  tried  to 
imagine  this  wild  spot  as  it  appeared  to  the  phlegmatic  Pala- 
tine settlers  at  Manheim,  Danube,  and  the  German  Flats  in 
1722.  At  that  date  the  rapids  and  their  adjoining  shores 
were  in  all  their  primitive  grandeur,  unadorned  or  marred  by 
the  works  of  man.  Undoubtedly  the  water-power  early  at- 
tracted to  their  border  the  saw  and  grist  mills,  whose  dams 
probably  were  an  unwelcome  barrier  to  the  daring  warriors 
who  trusted  their  lives  to  the  birchen  canoe  in  shooting  the 
rapids.  In  every  direction  would  have  been  seen  rocks  and 
running  water,  and  rocky  hills  crowned  with  the  primeval 
forests.  For  nearly  a  mile  extended  the  cascades  between 
perpendicular  cliffs  from  two  to  four  hundred  feet  high,  while 
at  the  foot  of  the  rapids  the  stream  was  deflected  by  Moss 
Island  or  Moss  Rock  to  pass  through  a  rocky  channel  about 
forty  feet  wide  to  the  placid  stream  beyond.  On  the  south 
side  of  the  river  the  perpendicular  face  of  a  cliff  one  hundred 


The  Legend  of  Little  Falls  367 

feet  high,  called  Lovers'  Leap,  threw  its  dark  shadow  on  the 
turbulent  stream,  while  to  the  west,  for  nearly  a  mile,  the 
bare,  perpendicular,  rocky  face  of  a  hill  four  hundred  feet 
high,  rose  sheer  from  the  shore  of  the  rapids.  A  story  is  told 
of  a  young  Indian  maiden  and  her  dusky  lover,  who,  being 
pursued  by  a  hostile  band  of  Indians,  sprang  from  this  cliff, 
clasped  in  each  other's  arms,  preferring  death  to  separation. 
This  occurrence  gave  to  the  locality  the  name  spoken  of  above, 
but  judging  from  the  numbers  of  Jacks  and  Jills  who  now 
congregate  on  this  elevated  spot  on  summer  evenings,  it  might 
well  be  renamed  "  Lovers'  Retreat." 

In  1848  Benson  J.  Lossing  passed  down  the  Mohawk  Val- 
ley, stopping  at  points  of  interest  in  search  of  material  for  his 
Field  Book  of  tJic  Revolution.  His  description  of  Little  Falls 
is  very  interesting.  Among  other  things  he  describes  a 
cavern  on  one  of  the  cliffs  which  at  that  period  overhung  the 
New  York  Central  Railroad  at  a  point  nearly  opposite  the 
*'  Lover's  Leap."     He  says: 

The  rugged  shores  present  many  incontestable  evidences  of 
abrasion  by  the  violent  action  of  water,  thirty  to  sixty  feet  above 
the  present  level  of  the  river.  Many  of  them  are  circular,  perpen- 
dicular cavities  in  the  hard  rocks,  which  are  composed  chiefly  of 
gneiss,  granite,  and  horn  blende. 

On  the  western  (northern)  shore  of  the  river  a  few  yards  from  the 
railroad  and  about  thirty  feet  above  its  bed  is  a  large  circulai  cavity 
with  an  opening  about  ten  feet  wide  facing  the  river,  and  over  its 
entrance  a  massive  lintel  which  appears  as  if  hewn  and  placed  there 
by  the  hands  of  man.  Within  this  cavity,  which  is  open  at  the  top, 
are  smaller  ones  on  its  concave  side.  Indian  legends  invest  these 
cavities  with  romantic  interest.  One  of  them  I  will  repeat,  in  brief, 
as  it  was  told  to  me,  for  it  is  identified  with  the  spot  described. 

Long  years  ago,  when  the  river  was  broader  and  the  falls  were 
more  lofty,  a  feud  arose  between  two  young  chiefs  of  two  of  the 
clans  of  the  Mohawk  tribe,  the  Wolf  and  Tortoise.  A  maiden  of 
the  Bear  Clan  was  the  cause  of  the  feud,  as  maidens  often  are.     She 


368  The  Mohawk  Valley 

was  loved  by  both  of  the  young  chiefs,  and  for  a  time  she  so 
coquetted  that  each  thought  himself  beloved  by  her  in  return.  (As 
maidens  often  do.)  Her  father  was  a  stern  old  warrior,  and  loved 
his  child  tenderly.  Both  chiefs  had  fought  the  Mingoes  and 
Mohegans  by  his  side,  and  the  bravery  of  each  entitled  him  to  the 
hand  of  the  maiden.  Her  affections  were  at  length  stirred  by  the 
more  earnest  importunities  of  the  Wolf,  and  she  promised  to  be- 
come his  bride.  This  decision  reached  the  ears  of  the  Tortoise, 
and  the  embers  of  jealousy  which  disturbed  both  while  unaccepted 
suitors,  burst  into  a  flame  of  ungenerous  revenge  in  the  bosom  of 
the  disappointed  lover.  He  determined  to  possess  the  coveted 
treasure  before  the  Wolf  should  take  her  to  his  wigwam.  With  well- 
dissembled  acquiescence  in  her  choice,  and  expressions  of  warm 
friendship  for  herself  and  her  affianced,  he  allayed  all  suspicions, 
and  the  maiden  rambled  with  him  in  the  moonlight  upon  the  banks 
of  the  river  when  her  affianced  was  away,  unconscious  of  danger. 
The  day  approached  for  the  maiden  to  go  to  the  wigwam  of  her 
lord.  The  Tortoise  was  with  her  alone  in  a  secluded  nook  upon 
the  bank  of  the  river.  His  light  canoe  was  near,  and  he  proposed 
a  voyage  to  a  beautiful  little  island  in  the  stream,  where  the  fire-flies 
sparkled  and  the  whippoorwill  whispered  its  evening  serenade. 
They  launched,  but  instead  of  paddling  for  the  island,  the  Tortoise 
turned  his  prow  toward  the  cataract.  Like  an  arrow  they  sped 
down  the  swift  current,  while  the  young  chief,  with  vigorous  arm, 
paddled  for  the  northern  shore.  Skilful  as  with  the  bow  and 
hatchet,  he  steered  his  canoe  to  the  mouth  of  the  cavern  described, 
as  then  upon  the  water's  brink,  seized  the  affrighted  maiden,  and 
leaped  ashore,  at  the  same  moment  securing  his  canoe  by  a  strong 
green  withe.  The  cave  was  dry,  a  soft  bed  of  skins  of  beasts  was 
spread,  and  abundance  of  provisions  were  there  stored.  At  the  top 
of  the  cave,  far  above  the  maiden's  reach,  an  opening  revealed  a 
passage  through  the  fissures  of  the  rocks  above.  It  was  known  only 
to  the  Tortoise;  and  there  he  kept  the  maiden  many  months,  until 
her  affianced  gave  her  up  as  lost  to  him  forever.  At  length,  while 
hunting  on  the  southern  hills  in  flowery  May,  the  Wolf  saw  the 
canoe  at  the  cavern.  It  solved  the  question  in  his  mind.  The 
evening  was  clear,  and  the  full  moon  shone  brightly.  He  waited 
until  midnight,  when,  with  an  arm  as  strong  and  skill  as  accurate  as 
his  rival's,  he  steered  his  canoe  to  the  mouth  of  this  cavern,  which 
iwas  lighted  up  by  the  moon.     By  its  light  he  saw  the  perfidious 


UiN    THE    TuW-PAlU,    LITTLE    FALLS 


369 


The  Legend  of  Little  Falls  371 

Tortoise  sleeping  in  the  arms  of  an  unwilling  bride.  The  Wolf 
smote  the  Tortoise,  but  the  wound  was  slight.  The  awakened 
warrior,  unable  to  grasp  his  hatchet,  bounded  through  the  opening 
at  the  top  of  the  cavern,  and  closed  it  with  a  heavy  stone.  The 
lovers  embraced  in  momentary  joy.  It  was  brief,  for  a  fearful  doom 
seemed  to  await  them.  The  Tortoise  would  return  with  power, 
and  they  had  to  make  choice  of  death  by  the  hatchet  of  the  rival 
chief  or  by  the  waters  of  the  cataract.  The  latter  was  their  choice, 
and  in  affectionate  embrace  they  sat  in  their  canoe  and  made  the 
fearful  leap.  The  frail  vessel  struck  propitiously  upon  the  boiling 
waters,  and,  unharmed,  passed  over  the  gulf  below.  Down  the 
broad  stream  they  glided,  and  far  away,  upon  the  margin  of  the 
lower  lake  they  lived  and  loved  for  two  generations,  and  saw  their 
children's  children  go  out  to  battle  and  the  chase.  In  the  long  line 
of  their  descent,  tradition  avers,  came  Brant,  the  Mohawk  sachem, 
the  strong  Wolf  of  his  nation. 

Since  the  above  was  written  (in  1848)  the  New  York  Cen- 
tral Railroad  has  been  widened  at  this  point,  by  cutting  away 
the  face  of  the  northern  cliff,  and  the  Dolgeville  Railroad  now 
climbs  along  an  incline,  also  cut  from  this  cliff,  and  has  un- 
doubtedly destroyed  the  cavern  spoken  of  above.  However^ 
about  five  hundred  feet  from  the  viaduct  that  carries  the  last- 
named  railroad  across  a  deep  ravine  at  the  eastern  end  of  the 
city,  is  to  be  seen  what  seems  to  be  the  back  of  this  cavern, 
recessed  about  two  feet  from  the  present  face  of  the  cliff,  and 
surmounted  by  a  slab  or  lintel  perhaps  fifteen  feet  long  and 
three  feet  thick,  reminding  one  of  an  entrance  to  some  rock 
temple  of  India,  as  described  by  travellers.  On  the  tops  of 
both  the  northern  and  southern  hills  are  found  many  pot-holes 
of  varying  size  and  depth,  plainly  indicating  that  the  immense 
prehistoric  streams  that  flowed  through  the  Mohawk  Valley 
from  Lakes  Iroquois  and  Spencer  must,  at  some  period,  have 
passed  over  the  highest  hills  at  that  point.  That  there  was 
a  very  high  fall  in  existence  where  the  foot  of  the  rapids 
now  is,  seems  to  be  indicated  by  the  disrupted  rocks  in  that 


372  The  Mohawk  Valley 

vicinity,  and  the  great  depth  of  water  at  that  point,  which  is 
said  to  be  a  hundred  feet  or  more, 

A  very  interesting  rock  is  seen  near  the  lower  iron  bridge, 
and  about  one  hundred  feet  from  the  river  bank,  and  perhaps 
thirty  feet  above  the  present  level  of  the  stream.  The  rock 
stands  about  fifteen  feet  above  the  surrounding  earth  and  is  in 
the  shape  of  a  horseshoe  whose  outer  diameter  is  about  fifty 
feet,  inner  diameter  about  twenty  feet,  and  the  width  of 
the  horseshoe  about  fifteen  feet,  with  the  opening  to  the  west, 
or  up  the  stream.  The  inner  surface  of  this  horseshoe  or 
broken  circle,  which  is  bowl-shape,  is  perpendicular  and 
marked  with  segments  of  a  circle  all  around  the  inside,  plainly 
showing  the  rotary  motion  of  water  and  debris,  as  it  was 
poured  in  immense  volume  from  high  falls  above  it.  At  the 
eastern  end  of  the  inner  circle  is  a  pot-hole  five  feet  deep  and 
about  two  feet  in  diameter.  This  hole  has  been  worn  through 
the  side  near  the  bottom,  indicating  the  manner  in  which  this 
immense  bowl  was  formed.  I  have  no  doubt  that  the  removal 
of  the  accumulation  of  earth  and  water  from  the  bottom  of 
this  bowl  would  uncover  a  cavity  of  remarkable  interest. 

But  Little  Falls  is  historic  as  well  as  prehistoric.  Across 
the  river,  below  the  State  dam  which  feeds  the  Erie  Canal, 
are  the  remains  of  a  well-constructed  shallow  aqueduct  of 
seventy  feet  span,  which  was  formerly  used  for  floating  canal 
boats  from  the  canal  to  a  large  basin  which  was  situated  on 
the  north  side  of  the  Mohawk,  back  of  the  present  station  of 
the  New  York  Central  Railroad.  This  aqueduct  is  no  longer 
used,   one  of  the  arches  having  been  destroyed. 

In  a  previous  chapter  mention  is  made  of  the  early  mode 
of  navigating  the  Mohawk  River  and  the  canal  at  Little  Falls, 
and  from  Rome  to  Wood  Creek,  and  so  on  through  Oneida 
Lake  and  Oswego  River  to  Lake  Ontario,  with  two  short 
portages  in  Oswego  River. 


The  Legend  of  Little  Falls  375 

To  improve  the  waterway  to  the  West,  the  Inland  Lock 
Navigation  Company,  in  1795,  constructed  a  canal  about  two 
miles  long,  from  below  the  rapids  to  the  deep  water  above  the 
falls.  This  canal  was  cut  through  the  rock  on  the  north  bank 
of  the  river,  and  with  the  aid  of  five  locks  batcajix  were  raised 
42  feet  and  launched  into  the  smooth  water  above  the  falls. 
A  small  portion  is  still  to  be  seen  in  the  western  part  of  the 
city,  also  the  stonework  of  the  two  upper  guard-locks  or 
gates.  The  canal  seems  to  have  been  cut  through  solid 
rock,  was  about  ten  feet  wide,  and  ten  feet  deep  at  the  upper 
lock.  The  width  of  the  old  canal  indicates  the  maximum 
width  of  the  bateaux  used  by  the  early  navigators. 


Chapter  XX 
Canajoharie — The   Hills  of  Florida 

THE  Indian  name  for  Canajoharie  seems  to  have  been 
spelled  Can-a-jor-ha,  and  was  originally  applied  to  a 
singular  hole  in  the  creek  that  enters  the  Mohawk 
River  at  that  place.  The  Indian  interpretation  is 
said  to  be  "  the  pot  that  washes  itself,"  the  water  seemingly 
boiling  as  it  flows  from  this  singular  hole  in  the  bed  of  the 
creek.  The  name  was  also  applied  to  the  stream  itself  and  to 
lands  south  of  the  Mohawk  in  its  vicinity,  and  in  after  years  to 
the  village  that  grew  up  at  its  mouth  after  the  Revolution. 
Historians,  however,  have  of  late  years  confused  readers  by 
confounding  the  Indian  town  of  Canajorha  with  the  Canajo- 
harie of  the  present  day. 

All  of  the  south  side  of  the  Mohawk,  from  the  Nose  or  spur 
of  the  Mayfield  Mountains  which  crosses  the  river  near  Spra- 
kers,  to  the  highlands  at  Little  Falls,  was  known  as  the  land 
of  the  Can-a-jor-has,  and  when  the  Canajoharie  Castle  is 
spoken  of,  it  means  the  Indian  settlement  in  the  town  of 
Danube  in  Herkimer  County,  and  now  known  as  Indian 
Castle,  which  was  the  home  of  Brant  and  Hendrick  and  the 
place  where  Sir  William  Johnson  assisted  in  building  a  church 
which  is  called  by  writers,  "  the  church  at  Canajoharie." 

The  first  name  we  find  applied  to  the  present  village  of 
Canajoharie  is  Scramling,  from  a  tavern  kept  by  Henry  Scram- 
ling,  situated  on  the  river  "  opposite  the  Freys,"  as  an  early 
chronicler  records  it. 

376 


Canajoharie — The  Hills  of  Florida        377 

Smith  and  Wells  make  the  following  entry  in  a  journal: 
*'  13th  May,  1769 — At  Scramlin's  we  turned  off  from  the  river, 
pursuing  a  S.  W.  course  for  Cherry  Valley." — "  The  carriers 
tell  us  that  they  were  paid  30  shillings  a  load  for  carrying  from 
Scramlin's  to  Otsego  Lake." 

The  creek  itself  is  a  thing  of  picturesque  beauty,  with  its 
high  cliffs  and  a  cascade  where  the  water  falls  from  forty  to 
fifty  feet. 

Opposite  Canajoharie  is  Palatine  Bridge,  a  station  on  the 
New  York  Central  Railroad.  In  a  history  of  Montgomery 
County  we  find  the  following: 

The  earliest  settlement  in  this  town,  and  probably  the  first  west 
of  Schenectady  on  the  north  side  of  the  Mohawk,  was  made  by  Hein- 
rich  Frey,  a  native  of  Zurich,  Switzerland,  who,  in  1688,  left  that 
city  for  America,  bringing  with  him  an  open  letter  from  the  mayor 
addressed  "  To  whom  it  may  concern."  Upon  his  arrival  in  New 
York  in  1689,  he  received  from  Gov.  Dongan  a  "  location  ticket  " 
for  loo  acres  of  land  on  the  Schoharie  creek,  but  the  Mohawk  Val- 
ley having  more  attractions  for  him,  he  soon  removed  thither,  and 
settled  just  west  of  the  present  village  of  Palatine  Bridge,  where  he 
erected  a  log  cabin  on  a  knoll  near  a  fine  spring.  Here  he  laid 
claim  to  a  tract  of  300  acres  of  land,  his  only  title  to  it,  aside  from 
possession,  being,  probably,  obtained  from  the  Indians.  This  land 
was  subsequently  included  in  the  patent  issued  to  Van  Slyck,  from 
whom  Frey  procured  a  permanent  title.  The  old  homestead  has 
always  remained  in  possession  of  the  family  and  is  now  the  property 
of  S.  L.  Frey,  Esq.,  who  represents  the  sixth  generation.  The  log 
cabin  was  occupied  until  1739,  when  a  substantial  stone  dwelling 
was  erected. 

This  building  can  be  seen  a  few  rods  west  of  the  village. 
It  has  a  row  of  port-holes  on  all  sides,  and  during  the  French 
wars  was  stockaded  and  occupied  by  several  companies  of 
troops.  The  photograph  of  this  ancient  dwelling  is  repre- 
sented on  page  379.      A  picture   is  also  given   of  a  curious 


37^  The  Mohawk  Valley 

old  window  in  the  Ehle  house  (1752-1900}  at  Nelliston,  N.  Y. 
The  house  may  also  be  seen  from  the  car  windows  on  the 
right-hand  side  going  west  between  the  Frey  house  and  St. 
Johnsville. 

For  many  years  travellers  have  viewed  the  valley  of  the 
Mohawk  from  the  north  side  of  the  river,  passing  under  the 
shadow  of  hills  that  tower  above  them,  while  their  eyes  have 
become  so  familiar  with  the  southern  shore  that  they  cease  to 
be  impressed  by  its  beauty.  The  West  Shore  Railroad, 
therefore,  gives  to  the  traveller  the  valley  under  a  new  aspect 
and  opens  vistas  that  he  hardly  recognizes. 

One  morning  in  the  latter  part  of  May  I  boarded  the  West 
Shore  milk  train,  en  route  for  Indian  Castle.  A  thick  haze 
somewhat  obscured  the  sun,  and  the  air  was  still  and  warm. 
As  the  sun  climbed  toward  the  zenith  feathery  shadows  were 
fitfully  seen  as  we  sped  along  the  valley,  while  the  sun  itself, 
surrounded  by  a  hazy  halo  and  thin,  fleecy  clouds,  looked 
more  like  the  full  moon  of  a  summer  night  than  the  brilliant, 
blazing  orb  of  day.  The  hills  and  valleys  were  partly  ob- 
scured by  a  light  blue  vapor,  which  revealed  the  gray  of  the 
rocks  but  toned  the  bright  green  of  forests  and  fields  to  olive 
tints.  As  we  near  the  Nose,  or  rather  Noses,  just  east  of 
Sprakers,  the  river  makes  a  sharp  bend  from  north  to  south, 
which,  as  we  sped  along,  opened  a  charming  vista  of  the  Mo- 
hawk, and  permitted  us  to  see  a  long  distance  up  the  river  be- 
tween the  high  hills  of  the  Noses,  which  a  moment  before 
seemed  to  obstruct  our  passage. 

On  both  the  north  and  south  sides  of  the  river  the  hills 
rise  perpendicularly  to  a  great  height,  showing  a  great  mass  of 
rock  with  clinging  vines  and  shrubs  and  crowned  with  pine, 
cedar,  and  hemlock,  whose  dark  foliage  is  mingled  with  the 
lighter  green  of  oak  and  maple.  At  some  distance  from  the 
point  where  we  enter  the  pass,  the  northern  ridge  falls  away 


<$lll! 


■^oiHSI, 


1 

fHn 

^^^ 

^ 

fSr, 

Canajoharie — The  Hills  of  Florida        381 

into  a  wide  ravine,  or  short  valley,  running  to  the  north  back 
of  the  county  farm. 

Among  the  rocks  of  this  ravine  has  been  established  an 
industry  which,  though  it  is  said  to  be  a  monopoly,  we  do  not 
care  to  have  transferred  to  our  city.  I  can  pledge  you  my 
word  that  the  Board  of  Trade  will  have  nothing  to  do  with  it. 
In  that  ravine  lives  a  man  who  retails  oil  at  two  dollars  an 
ounce.  His  harvest  begins  in  the  warm  days  of  spring,  when 
the  snow  is  disappearing,  but  is  of  comparatively  short  dura- 
tion. At  that  season  he  dons  his  rubber  boots  and  incases 
his  legs  in  lengths  of  stove  pipe,  arms  himself  with  a  stout 
club  and  invades  the  haunts  of  the  rattlesnakes  that  infest  that 
locality.  You  can  judge  of  the  number  slain  by  the  fact  that 
during  the  year  1899  he  sold  one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars' 
worth  of  rattlesnake  oil  at  two  dollars  an  ounce. 

The  hill  on  the  south  side  of  the  river  is  sometimes  called 
the  "  Little  "  Nose,  but  to  one  that  gazes  at  its  rockv  eleva- 
tion of  740  feet,  from  its  base,  the  name  seems  to  be  misplaced. 
Near  its  top,  a  little  distance  to  the  south,  is  the  egg-shaped 
opening  of  "  Mitchell's  cave,"  a  cavern  very  interestingly  de- 
scribed by  Percy  N.  Van  Epps,  in  a  publication  called  The 
Museum.  The  entrance  is  made  by  a  perpendicular  drop,  by 
means  of  a  rope,  of  about  16  feet,  to  an  opening  11  by  30  feet 
and  13  feet  deep.  From  this  point,  by  incline  plane  and  per- 
pendicular descent,  Van  Epps,  Van  Home,  Hartley,  and  others 
penetrated  to  the  depth  of  280  feet  without  finding  any  very 
large  rooms  or  extensive  horizontal  galleries.  The  cave  or 
cavern  has  the  appearance  of  having  been  formed  by  a  huge 
cleft  in  the  mountain,  and  the  exploration  is  made  not  with- 
out danger,  and  with  considerable  discomfort. 

The  name  Anthony's  Nose  is  applied  to  similar  high  hills 
in  two  other  places  in  New  York  State,  one  on  Lake  George, 
near  "  Rogers's  Slide,"  and  the  other  in  the  highlands  on  the 


o 


82  The  Mohawk  Valley 


Hudson.  You  will  probably  recall  Washington  Irving's  story 
in  his  Knickerbocker  History  of  New  York,  of  the  incident 
which  caused  the  last-named  hill  to  be  called  "  Anthony's 
Nose." 

Peter  Stuyvesant  and  his  trumpeter,  Antony  Van  Corlear, 
are  sailing  up  the  Hudson  on  a  voyage  of  discovery.  Early 
one  morning,  while  their  sloop  is  passing  the  highlands, 
Van  Corlear  is  lounging  on  deck.  The  sun,  rising  over  a  high 
hill,  lights  up  the  large  red  nose  of  Antony.  Glancing  from 
his  nose,  the  ray  of  sunlight  strikes  the  water  and  kills  a  stur- 
geon. Whereupon  Governor  Stuyvesant  proclaims  that  the 
hill  shall  be  called  "  Anthony's  Nose." 

Passing  by  the  rocky  hills  and  extensive  flats  of  the  Mo- 
hawk, and  many  a  lone  fisherman,  and  glimpses  of  the  old 
stone  houses  known  as  the  Frey  and  Ehle  houses,  on  the  op- 
posite shore,  with  due  milk-train  speed  we  at  last  reached  Indian 
Castle.  We  missed  the  usual  crowd  at  the  station,  because  there 
are  not  enough  people  in  the  hamlet  to  make  a  crowd.  The 
object  of  our  journey  being  to  visit  the  former  home  of  the 
Indian  warrior,  Joseph  Brant,  and  a  church  built  by  Sir  Wil- 
liam Johnson  in  1763,  we  turned  our  steps  toward  the  only  spire 
that  was  visible.  It  being  near  our  usual  dinner  hour,  we  ac- 
costed a  lady,  as  we  crossed  the  bridge  that  spans  the  Con-o- 
wa-da-ga,  or  Castle,  Creek,  and  asked  if  there  was  a  hotel  or 
store  in  the  place  where  we  could  procure  some  food.  She 
kindly  informed  us  that  there  were  none,  but  volunteered  the 
information  that  there  was  a  canal  grocery  about  three-quar- 
ters of  a  mile  away  that  had  a  license  (?).  Further  inquiry 
elicited  the  information  that  we  could  procure  the  key  to  the 
church  of  Mr.  Willis  Green,  who  lives  in  a  large  white  farm- 
house, with  extensive  conservatories  adjoining,  situated  near 
the  church  edifice.  This  locality  is  interesting  because  it  was 
the  last  home  of  the  Canajorhees,  and  the  upper  castle  of  the 


Canajoharie — The  Hills  of  Florida        385 

Mohawks  during  Sir  William  Johnson's  residence  in  the 
valley. 

I  feel  somewhat  timid  in  writing  about  the  Canajorha 
Castle  after  S.  L.  Frey  of  Palatine  has  given  it  his  considera- 
tion for  so  many  years,  and  has  written  so  much  about  it.  But 
I  purpose  writing  from  my  standpoint  of  investigation,  trust- 
ing that  if  I  am  wrong  he  will  correct  me.  As  Indian  Castle 
is  situated  in  Herkimer  County,  I  also  feel  as  though  I  was 
encroaching  upon  territory  belonging  to  historians  of  the  ad- 
joining county,  and  may  differ  somewhat  from  their  conclusions. 

In  Miss  Walworth's  TckakivitJia  is  a  map  of  ancient  Indian 
villages,  drawn  by  General  John  S.  Clark,  of  Auburn,  who 
was  accompanied  by  Mr.  S.  L.  Frey  when  sites  of  the  villages 
were  located.  Although  all  other  villages  are  represented  as 
having  changed  their  location  frequently  between  1642  and 
1700,  the  Canajorhees  seem  (according  to  this  map)  to  have 
been  permanently  located  about  two  miles  north  of  Palatine 
Bridge,  and  that  they  were  never  located  at  the  village  now 
known  as  Canajoharie. 

We  will  have  to  accept  the  conclusions  of  Messrs.  Clark 
and  Frey,  as  I  know  of  no  better  authority  than  they  on  this 
subject.  The  same  uncertainty  about  the  Canajorhees  seems 
apparent  after  1700,  until  they  were  settled  at  Indian  Castle 
on  the  Con-o-wa-da-ga  Creek.  We  know  that  they  were  there 
in  1755,  when  Sir  William  Johnson  built  a  fort  for  them  and 
named  it  Fort  Hendrick,  and  that  a  block-house  was  there 
previous  to  that  date,  but  I  have  not  been  able  to  ascertain 
the  time  of  their  removal  to  that  locality.  I  have  in  my  pos- 
session, however,  a  copy  of  an  old  deed  which  may  throw  a 
little  light  on  the  subject.  It  is  a  deed  from  the  Indians  to 
Jan  Wemp  of  Fort  Hunter,  and  describes  the  large  island  still 
in  possession  of  his  descendants.      The   western  end  of-  this 

island  is  opposite  Fort  Hunter.     It  reads  as  follows: 

25 


386  The  Mohawk  Valley 

"  .  .  .  possession  and  demand  of  in  and  to  all  that 
great  island  lying  and  being  in  the  county  of  Albany,  in 
the  M aquas  river  most  opposite  to  the  Indian  castle  at  Cana- 
joJiary,  together  with  as  much  land  on  the  main  on  ye  south- 
west side  of  said  river  as  said  island  is  in  length, ' '  etc. ,  etc.  The 
above  deed  was  dated  1720.  My  attention  was  called  to  it  by 
the  late  R.  A.  Grider.  The  phrase  "most  opposite  to  the 
Indian  castle  at  Canajohary,"  would  seem  to  indicate  that  it 
was  located  either  to  the  east  or  to  the  west  of  the  great 
island  at  Fort  Hunter. 

East  of  the  island,  on  the  north  side  of  the  Mohawk  River, 
on  the  high  hill  between  Fort  Johnson  Creek  and  Dove  Creek, 
many  evidences  of  Indian  occupation  have  been  found,  and 
may  have  been  the  site  of  the  Canajohary  Castle  in  1720.  Sir 
William  bought  this  property  in  1739,  and  probably  between 
the  two  dates,  1720  and  1739,  the  Canajorhees  located  at  In- 
dian Castle.  In  another  deed  to  Jan  Wemp,  dated  1728,  for 
lands  in  the  same  locality,  occurs  this  sentence:  "  Know  that 
for  sundry  good  causes  and  lawful  considerations  in  moving, 
but  more  especially  for  the  love  and  affection  we  bear  to  our 
loving  friends,  Jan  Wemp  and  Cornells  Van  Slyck,"  etc.,  etc. 
This  would  seem  to  indicate  a  removal  of  the  Indians  to  some 
other  locality  and  may  have  been  the  time  that  the  Canajor- 
hees moved  from  the  north  to  the  south  side  of  the  river,  or  it 
may  refer  to  the  removal  of  an  Indian  village  from  the  lands 
purchased  by  Jan  Wemp  on  the  mainland.  Evidence  of  an 
Indian  village  is  still  seen  on  the  hills  about  1000  feet  south 
of  the  Wemple  residence. 

Indian  Castle  of  to-day  presents  few  evidences  of  former 
Indian  occupation  except  a  few  sunken  graves  in  a  cedar 
thicket  at  the  western  edge  of  the  precipitous  hill  on  which 
stands  the  old  church.  Mr.  Willis  Green,  whose  house  stands 
within  the  line  of  the  old  stockade,  pointed  out  a  well  still  in 


Canajoharie — The  Hills  of  Florida        389 

use,  which  was  said  to  have  been  in  the  centre  of  the  fortifi- 
cation, while  back  of  his  house  is  still  to  be  seen  the  outline  of 
the  foundation  of  the  house  of  Joseph  Brant  and  King  Hen- 
drick.  A  hill  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  creek  is  probably 
the  site  of  the  old  block-house  spoken  of  in  the  following  let- 
ter from  Sir  William  Johnson  to  Governor  DeLancy : 

Mount  Johnson,  June  6,  1755. 

Sir: — I  returned  last  night  from  the  Conhogohery  Castle,  having 
first  been  at  the  Mohock  Castle.     At  both  settlements  I  have  fixt  on 
Places  to  build  them  Forts.     At  Cohogohery  I  propose  it  on  the 
Flat   Land  out  of  Gun-Shot  from  the  Hill  where  the  Old  Block 
houses  now  stand,  out  of  which  upon  the  Point  of  the  said  Hill  I 
propose  to  erect  a  good  Block  House.     On  the  rear  of  the  intended 
Fort,  there  is  a  clear,  improved  Vale  run  of  more  than  half  a  mile, 
on  the  left  Flank  it  will  be  assisted  by  the  said  Block  house  on  the 
point  of  the  Hill,  a  fire  between  which  and  the  Fort  will  clear  the 
open  land   on   that  side;    the  land   is   all   clear  and   cultivated   in 
the   Front.     On  the  right  side  there  are  a  few  Bushes  and  small 
Wood  to  clear,  when  all  will  be  open  on  that  side  for  more  than  half 
a  mile.     One  of  the  Bastions  to  serve  for  a  church,  etc.,  etc. 
I  am 
Sir 
With  the  Utmost  Respect 
Your  Honours 
Most  Obedient  & 

Most  Humble  Serv't, 

Wm.  Johnson. 
Gov'r  Delancy. 

Procuring  the  key  of  the  old  church  from  its  hiding-place 
in  the  horseshed,  I  explored  the  old  edifice,  but  did  not  find 
much  of  interest,  as  the  interior  has  been  modernized,  except 
the  windows,  which  still  retain  their  small  panes  of  glass. 
The  entrance,  which  was  formerly  on  the  west  side,  has  been 
changed  to  the  north.  I  was  told  of  an  old  bell  in  the  steeple 
which  is  fractured  and  useless,  on  account  of  rough  usage  at 


390  The  Mohawk  Valley 

the  time  of  the  Indian  exodus  to  Canada  during  the  Revolu- 
tion. The  Canajorhees  attempted  to  take  the  bell  with  them, 
but  when  the  whites  became  aware  of  it  they  pursued  and 
overtook  the  canoes  on  the  Mohawk  River.  It  is  said  that  in 
order  to  save  the  bell  from  capture  it  was  thrown  into  the 
river.  It  was  afterward  recovered  by  the  whites  and  replaced 
in  the  belfry  from  which  it  had  been  taken,  but  in  a  damaged 
condition. 

About  two  miles  west  of  the  village,  still  in  a  good  state  of 
preservation,  is  the  old  brick  residence  of  General  Herkimer, 
erected  in  1764. 

The  first  bridge  across  the  Mohawk  at  Amsterdam  was 
erected  in  1821. 

This  bridge  was  to  consist  of  two  spans,  with  abutments 
on  each  side  of  the  river,  and  a  pier  in  the  centre.  It  is  quite 
evident  that  the  engineer  who  planned  its  construction  would 
never  have  been  engaged  to  erect  the  Brooklyn  Bridge,  as  a 
portion  of  the  Amsterdam  Bridge  fell  of  its  own  weight  before 
its  completion,  and  the  plan  was  changed  and  the  bridge  con- 
structed with  two  piers  instead  of  one.  The  foundation  of  the 
old  pier  in  the  centre  can  yet  be  seen  during  the  summer, 
when  the  water  is  clear.  This  bridge  was  carried  away  by  a 
flood  in  1839,  ^"<^  another  bridge  that  was  immediately 
erected  met  a  similar  fate  in  1842.  The  third  stood  firm  until 
1865,  when  the  northern  span  was  carried  away  during  the 
spring  flood  of  that  year. 

In  the  early  part  of  the  spring  of  1865  heavy  rains  had 
cleared  the  Mohawk  of  ice,  and  continuing  for  a  number  of 
days  filled  the  river  until  it  seemed  as  though  the  banks  could 
hold  no  more.  In  fact,  it  overflowed  into  the  Erie  Canal  and 
filled  some  of  the  levels  east  of  Auriesville. 

At  that  time  a  new  lattice  bridge  was  being  built  across  the 
river  at  Fonda,  the  heavy  lattice  timbers  being  in  place.     The 


Caiiajoharie — The  Hills  of  Florida        393 

banks  of  the  canal  above  having  been  washed  away,  two  large 
canal  boats  passed  into  the  river  and,  floating  down,  struck  and 
wrecked  the  uncompleted  structure. 

The  morning  this  occurred  was  bright  and  beautiful  with 
the  sunlight  of  early  spring,  and  many  people  were  on  the  Am- 
sterdam Bridge  and  the  banks  of  the  river,  watching  the 
unprecedented  flood,  which  reached  within  three  feet  of  the 
bridge,  a  covered  structure  of  heavy,  latticed  timbers,  that  had 
withstood  the  wear  and  tear  and  storms  of  years.  The  water 
surging  by  was  forced  in  huge  volumes  up  the  piers,  and  fell 
from  their  sides  in  muddy  brown  cascades,  and  seethed  and 
boiled  as  it  lashed  the  sides  of  the  blocks  of  stones,  as  though 
it  were  angry  that  its  course  should  be  checked  by  such  a 
seemingly  frail  impediment.  Inside  of  the  structure  on  beams 
and  lattice  was  the  dust  of  thirty  years'  accumulation.  About 
ten  o'clock  a  telegram  was  received  that  the  bridge  above  had 
been  wrecked,  and,  with  two  canal  boats,  was  floating  down 
the  river.  The  great  danger  to  the  Amsterdam  Bridge  was 
instantly  recognized,  and  the  merchants  locked  their  stores 
and  hastened  to  the  river  side  to  watch  for  the  first  appearance 
of  the  impending  danger. 

Soon,  in  the  distance,  could  be  seen  a  black  object,  which, 
as  it  drew  nearer,  was  recognized  as  a  large  canal  boat  with 
cabins  at  each  end  and  covered  deck  between,  and  about  a 
thousand  feet  behind,  a  large  section  of  the  wrecked  bridge 
with  its  new  timbers  glistening  in  the  sunlight.  On  came  the 
boat,  with  the  speed  of  a  race-horse,  sitting  high  in  the  furious 
current,  and  it  was  seen  at  once  that  it  could  not  pass  under 
the  bridge. 

When  it  was  about  five  hundred  feet  away  it  was  floating 
broadside  with  the  current,  but  as  it  drew  nearer  the  bow 
swung  around,  and,  amid  the  stillness  of  the  breathless  multi- 
tude, struck  the  north  span  of  the  bridge  about   thirty  feet 


394  The  Mohawk  Valley 

from  the  pier  nearly  head  on,  with  a  blow  that  made  the  old 
timbers  bend  like  a  bow.  The  recoil  seemed  to  force  the  boat 
back;  the  current  catching  the  stern  landed  it  on  the  pier 
in  its  centre,  and  was  immediately  forced  up  the  pier  by  the 
force  of  the  current,  until  the  whole  huge  boat  was  nearly  out 
of  the  water.  There  it  hung,  balanced  across  the  pier,  with 
every  joint  creaking,  for  about  twenty  seconds,  when  the  bow 
settled  to  the  north,  and  with  deliberate  majesty  plunged  its 
whole  length  into  the  stream  and  out  of  sight,  came  up  below 
the  bridge,  shaking  the  water  from  its  deck  like  a  huge  levia- 
than, and  passed  on  down  the  river.  The  shout  that  arose 
from  the  multitude  was  almost  immediately  checked  at  the 
sight  that  met  the  eye  as  it  again  turned  westward.  There,  a 
short  distance  up  the  river,  was  the  span  of  the  bridge,  float- 
ing slower,  but  with  resistless  force,  with  the  broken  ends  of 
the  lattice  sticking  out  in  front  like  the  prongs  of  a  grappling 
iron.  On,  on  it  came,  straight  for  the  injured  span,  which  it 
grappled  to  its  wounded  side,  and  amid  the  creaking  and 
groaning  of  timbers  torn  asunder  was  engulfed  by  the 
wrecked  span.  Without  any  seeming  diminution  of  speed, 
with  its  victim  close  locked  in  its  embrace,  it  floated  down  the 
river  and  was  stranded  on  the  flats  below.  The  wreck  was 
hardly  out  of  sight  before  the  second  span  of  the  Fonda 
Bridge  came  down  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  with  a  rock- 
ing motion  that  carried  it  nearly  out  of  sight,  and  as  it  dipped 
in  the  water  just  as  it  reached  the  bridge,  it  passed  under 
without  doing  any  damage  save  tearing  off  a  few  boards  as  it 
came  up  again  below. 

With  their  accustomed  energy  the  village  trustees  took 
measures  to  establish  communication  with  their  neighbors  on 
the  south  side,  and  in  due  time  an  iron  span  was  constructed 
which  did  good  service  until  1876,  when  another  disaster  oc- 
curred of  a  more  serious  nature. 


Canajoharie — The  Hills  of  Florida        397 

During  the  winter  of  1876,  from  causes  for  which  nature 
alone  was  responsible,  an  immense  ice-gorge  was  formed  in  the 
shallow  riff  near  the  Atlas  mill.  This  began  early  in  the 
winter,  and  by  spring  had  grown  to  such  formidable  propor- 
tions that  it  seemed  as  though  nothing  but  the  heat  of  the  sun 
would  ever  remove  it.  During  the  month  of  February,  how- 
ever, a  season  of  warm  rains  melted  the  snow  and  filled  the 
streams  to  their  utmost  capacity  and  culminated  on  the  even- 
ing of  February  15th  with  more  rain  and  a  strong  westerly 
wind. 

Soon  the  ice  below  the  bridge  began  to  heave  and  groan, 
with  ever  and  anon  a  report  like  a  pistol  shot,  giving  warning 
that  the  ice  was  breaking  up  under  great  pressure,  and  it  was 
at  once  feared  that  the  bridge  was  in  great  danger.  Persons 
hurrying  to  their  homes  across  the  bridge  through  the  dark- 
ness reported  that  the  planks  that  constituted  the  floor  of  the 
bridge  were  raised  in  front  and  behind  them  as  they  swiftly 
sped  from  the  impending  danger. 

In  those  days  we  had  no  electric  lights,  and  the  gloom 
along  the  river  bank  was  almost  impenetrable  to  persons 
standing  near  the  bridge. 

It  was  a  fearful  night.  The  roar  and  swish  of  the 
Chuctanunda  in  the  distance,  the  mournful  hum  overhead, 
as  the  wind  whistled  through  the  wires  and  the  iron 
bars  of  the  bridge,  the  dismal  rain-drops,  the  thick,  misty 
blackness  of  the  night,  the  cracking  of  the  ice,  and  the 
fearful  gorge  with  its  overshadowing  horrors  in  the  dis- 
tance, were  enough  to  make  a  person  shiver  with  nervous 
terror. 

About  ten  o'clock  at  night  the  belated  spectators  were 
aware  of  the  movement  of  the  ice,  and  at  once  tried  in  vain 
to  pierce  the  impenetrable  darkness  that  brooded  over  the 
gorge  in  the  distance. 


398  The  Mohawk  Valley 

Soon  an  unwonted  sound,  like  the  grinding,  crashing  and 
rending  of  an  irresistible  body  in  motion,  was  heard. 

Closer  came  the  sound,  and  peering  with  straining  eyes 
into  the  gloom,  we  saw  for  an  instant,  before  fleeing  to  a 
place  of  safety,  the  shadowy  whiteness  of  a  moving  wall 
towering  above  our  heads,  and  heard  the  sound  of  falling 
bricks  and  timbers  from  buildings  wrecked  along  the  bank. 
As  we  ran,  we  turned  and  saw  the  wall  approach  the  bridge, 
strike  it,  and  bear  it  along  in  front  of  it,  with  no  more  ap- 
parent effort  than  if  it  had  been  composed  of  cardboard,  and 
pass  on,  leaving  behind  the  dismantled  piers  and  the  flood 
of  water  that  was  already  overspreading  the  banks  of  the 
river,  and  the  total  v/reck  of  the  substantial  stone  and  brick 
building  of  Charles  Spalt,  near  the  bridge.  If  this  was  a  fear- 
ful night,  the  morning  brought  a  despondent  day  to  those 
who  had  suffered  from  the  flood,  from  wrecked  buildings,  and 
the  loss  of  the  life  of  a  child  as  the  parents  were  trying  to 
escape  from  their  threatened  dwelling. 

The  frame  dwellings  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Mohawk,  in 
the  rear  of  Charles  Spalt's  shop,  had  been  moved  from  their 
foundations  by  the  gorge,  and  were  immediately  surrounded 
by  water.  In  one  of  these  was  George  Laimbier,  an  elderly 
man,  confined  to  his  bed  with  illness.  He  was  removed  to  a 
place  of  safety  with  difficulty.  Mr.  Needham  occupied 
another  dwelling,  and  attempted  to  make  his  way  through 
the  water  with  his  three  children  clasped  in  his  arms.  One  of 
them  slipped  from  his  grasp  into  the  water,  and  in  the  dark- 
ness and  confusion  was  drowned. 

Three  other  children  were  discovered  by  their  cries  to  be 
clinging  to  a  bush  in  the  water.  It  is  remembered  that  John 
F.  Morris,  attracted  by  the  cries  of  distress,  dashed  into  the 
water  at  the  risk  of  his  life,  and  one  by  one  brought  them  in 
safety  to  dry  land. 


Canajoharie — The  Hills  of  Florida        399 

FLORIDA. 

The  town  of  Florida,  is  in  the  form  of  a  triangle,  with 
its  base,  so  to  speak,  on  the  Mohawk  River  and  its  apex 
at  the  junction  of  Schenectady  and  Schoharie  Counties,  a 
little  southwest  of  Miller's  Corners.  This  land  was  formerly 
part  of  the  grant  of  eighty-six  thousand  acres  to  Walter  Butler 
and  forty-two  others  in  1733,  and  afterward  the  fourteen  thou- 
sand acres  of  Sir  Peter  Warren's  estate,  and  the  grants  to 
Edward  and  Phillis  Harrison,  Anne  Wilmot,  Maynard  and 
Elizabeth  Guerin,  Henry  Crosby  and  William  Crosby,  Jr.,  the 
last-named  grants  extending  along  the  borders  of  Schenectady 
County,  from  Schoharie  Creek  to  the  Mohawk  River. 

At  that  date  (1735),  all  of  the  country  in  this  section  of 
the  colony  of  New  York  was  called  Albany  County,  and  the 
country  west  of  Schenectady  township  was  spoken  of  as  the 
Maquaase  country,  or  the  country  of  the  Mohawks. 

In  1788  the  country  north  of  the  Mohawk  River  was 
known  as  the  town  of  Caughnawaga,  and  south  of  the  river  as 
the  town  of  Mohawk. 

Florida  was  formed  from  the  town  or  district  of  Mohawk, 
March  12,  1793,  and  its  first  town  meeting  was  held  in  April, 
1794,  at  the  house  of  Ezra  Murray. 

The  triangular  section  of  land  spoken  of  was  named  Florida. 
It  is  not  recorded  who  gave  it  that  name,  or  why  that  beauti- 
ful Spanish  word  was  selected,  July  23,  1898,  is  the  date  of 
one  of  the  many  pleasant  drives  which  the  writer  has  enjoyed 
on  the  Florida  Hills.  Our  road  led  past  the  Serviss  & 
DeGraff  mill  in  Mudge  Hollow,  which  stands  on  the  site  of 
the  first  sawmill  erected  at  that  place,  and  owned  by  one 
Andrew  Frank,  About  the  beginning  of  the  century  there 
were  two  grist-mills  and  a  tannery  located  at  this  place.  The 
mills  were  owned  by  a  Rowland  and  Mudge  and  McDonald. 


400  The  Mohawk  Valley 

and  the  tannery  by  Bethuel  Dean,  the  grandfather  of  Luther 
L.  and  James  Dean,  and  the  other  children  of  John,  Daniel, 
and  Henry  Dean.  Bethuel  Dean's  name  is  found  in  the 
early  records  of  Amsterdam,  then  living  near  Cranesville. 
Later  he  bought  a  farm  on  Yankee  Hill,  which  passed  to  his 
son,  John,  and  was  occupied  by  him  at  the  time  of  his 
death. 

A  letter  from  Oliver  DeLancy  to  Sir  William  Johnson, 
October  26,  1765,  says:  "  I  have  directed  Mr.  John  R.  Bleeker 
to  survey  Sir  Peter's  (Warren)  Patents  at  '  Chuctanunda  '  and 
lay  them  out  in  lots  of  one  hundred  acres  each.  He  seems  to 
apprehend  some  interruption  from  the  Indians.  In  such  case 
I  beg  you  will  prevent  their  giving  any  trouble." 

It  would  seem  from  the  above  that  the  land  now  known  as 
Florida,  or  at  least  that  portion  of  it  near  the  mouth  of  the 
South  Chuctanunda  Creek,  was  designated  by  the  owners  of 
the  patent  as  Chuctanunda,  while  that  to  the  east  was  called 
Warrensburg,  or  Johnson's  Settlement,  and  that  Indian 
families  were  located  near  the  creek,  and  probably  cultivated 
the  flats  on  which  the  fifth  ward  of  Amsterdam  is  located. 

Turning  to  the  left  after  passing  the  site  of  the  old  mills, 
our  road  led  us  over  the  first  range  of  hills  on  the  south  bank 
of  the  Mohawk,  which  gave  us  a  glimpse  of  the  valley  to  the 
north  and  east.  Coming  to  the  old  red-brick  house  of  John 
Van  Derveer,  we  are  reminded  that  we  are  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  homes  of  the  earliest  settlers,  and  a  little  further  on  we 
pass  farms  that  bear  names  of  the  pioneers  of  Florida, —  Row- 
lands, Hubbs,  Herrick,  Thayer,  Luke,  Staley,  Billington,. 
Stewart,  Van  Slyke,  Schuyler,  Ferguson,  McKinney,  Ernest, 
Schuler,  McClumpha,  and  a  host  of  others, —  and  on  the  top  of 
a  high  hill,  midway  between  the  homes  of  Charles  Ferguson 
and  Fletcher  Ernest,  we  stop  our  weary  horse  to  gaze  on  the 
scene  before  us,  and  are  more  at  a  loss  than  ever  to  under- 


Canajoharie — The  Hills  of  Florida        401 

stand  why  this  beautiful  country  was  named  Florida.  It  is 
said  that  the  name  was  given  to  the  peninsula  by  the  Span- 
iards, in  allusion  to  the  aspect  of  the  country,  the  name 
signifying  florid  or  flowery.  It  is  also  said  that  Ponce  de 
Leon,  who  was  in  search  of  the  fountain  of  life,  touched  the 
mainland  rich  with  flowers  on  Easter  Sunday,  March  12,  15 12 
(Easter  was  called  by  the  Spaniards,  Pasqual  Flores — the  Feast 
of  Flowers),  and  christened  the  country  Florida. 

In  the  grand  view  before  me  I  can  see  no  flowers  nor  palm- 
trees,  no  live  oak  and  cypress  covered  with  moss  and  mistletoe, 
no  stately  magnolia  or  ambitious  mangrove  or  cocoanut.  The 
orange,  the  myrtle,  the  jessamine,  the  cork-tree  are  not  in 
sight.  In  place  of  plantations  of  wide-leaf  bananas,  we  see 
the  tall  stalks  of  corn  and  the  flowering  potato.  No  swamps 
and  stagnant  rivers,  with  lazy  alligators  and  gigantic  turtles 
basking  in  the  sun,  no  birds  of  brilliant  plumage  and  scream- 
ing, discordant  notes,  or  lazy,  ne'er-do-well  negro  boys  and 
olive  brown  maids  playing  in  the  sand.  No,  this  is  not  the 
Florida  of  Ponce  de  Leon,  Narvaez,  and  De  Soto,  but  it  has  a 
beauty  of  its  own  that  is  more  attractive  to  the  hardy  North- 
erner. As  I  gaze  from  the  vantage-point  of  the  high  ground 
south  of  Minaville,  there  is  in  view  to  the  west  the  ever- 
green slope  of  Bean  Hill,  the  highest  point  of  land  in 
Montgomery  County,  with  its  cultivated  sides  bright  with 
meadow  and  forest,  shielded  from  the  western  sun  by  its  own 
vast  height.  To  the  east  is  the  State  road,  opened  in  18 12, 
to  avoid  the  high  hill  on  which  we  stand,  and  to  make  it 
easier  to  transport  the  heavy  cannon  and  ordnance  stores  to 
the  forts  on  the  Western  frontier. 

In  front  of  us  and  all  around  us  are  fields  of  grain  and 
meadows  of  clover  and  timothy  that  have  already  bowed  their 
heads  to  the  reaper  and  mower,  leaving  great  patches  of  ivory- 
tinted  stubble,  and  making  a  portion  of  the  landscape  look 
36 


402  The  Mohawk  Valley 

like  a  section  of  a  huge  crazy  quilt.  Here  and  there  are  great 
fields,  dotted  with  innumerable  tiny  hillocks  of  darker  hue, 
each  little  hillock  disappearing  as  the  well-laden  hay  wagon 
passes  near  and  adds  to  its  load.  In  the  distance  these  tower- 
ing, rounded  loads  remind  one  of  huge  elephants,  or,  perhaps, 
a  mastodon  wandering  aimlessly  over  the  vast  fields.  Wheat, 
oats,  and  barley  are  still  nodding  their  heads,  waiting  for  the 
reaper,  but  the  sheaves  of  rye  that  dot  hill  and  plain  remind 
us  that  harvest  is  at  hand.  All  along  the  road  we  pass 
orchards  of  apple-trees  and  clusters  of  minor  fruits,  houses 
and  fences  in  good  repair,  and  no  deserted  homes. 

The  hill  on  which  we  rest  might  well  be  called  historic 
ground,  as  we  stand  in  the  centre  of  a  mile  square,  settled  by 
one  of  the  first  pioneers  of  the  town  of  Florida. 

Some  time  near  the  year  1765,  one  Deboise  bought  of 
Edward  and  Phillis  Harrison  six  hundred  and  forty  acres, 
which  was  part  of  two  thousand  acres  known  as  the  Harrison 
patent  of  1735. 

Dr.  John  Delamater  says:  "  Lawrence  Schuler  sailed  from 
Wurtumberg  for  New  York  in  1755  in  company  with  his 
father  and  two  brothers,  one  whose  name  was  George ;  the 
younger,  whose  name  is  not  remembered,  died  in  New  York. 
Lawrence  and  his  brother  George  removed  to  Catskill  where 
Lawrence  married  a  woman  by  the  name  of  Overbaug,  who 
had  five  children  by  a  previous  husband,  and  whose  maiden 
name  was  Sarah  Deboise  of  French  descent,  and  sister  of  the 
late  Col.  Benjamin  Deboise,  of  Schoharie  County,  N.  Y. "  It 
was  through  this  wife  that  he  probably  came  into  possession  of 
the  Deboise  mile  square,  and  by  whom  he  had  three  sons: 
Jacob,  born  at  Catskill  in  1765;  Solomon,  born  at  Catskill  in 
1768;  John,  born  in  1769,  probably  in  Florida. 

Lawrence  Schuler  was  born  in  Germany  in  1736,  and  died 
February  14,  181 3,  aged  seventy-seven  years.     A  brother  of 


Canajoharie — The  HilJs  of  Florida        403 

Lawrence  came  to  this  country  about  the  same  time  and 
settled  on  the  north  side  of  the  Mohawk.  I  have  not  been 
able  to  learn  his  name,  but,  as  a  record  on  a  tombstone  in  the 
family  plot  of  the  Schulers  reads,  "  Jacob  Schuler,  Died  1807, 
Aged  75  Years,"  the  supposition  is  that  he  was  an  older 
brother,  and  probably  the  ancestor  of  the  Schulers  who 
settled  near  Manny's  Church.  Lawrence  had  three  sons, 
namely,  John,  Solomon,  and  Jacob.  John  Schuler  had  five 
sons,  namely,  D.  Cady,  Remsen,  Daniel,  Cholot,  and  Jacob. 
Solomon  Schuler  had  four  sons,  William  Solomon,  Duane, 
John,  and  Jacob.  Up  to  this  time  I  have  only  been  able  to 
ascertain  the  genealogy  of  two  of  the  sons  of  Lawrence 
Schuler,  senior,  as  follows: 


Jacob 


Solomon 


John 


\Vm.  Sulomon 
Duane 
fohn 
Jacob 


D.  Cady 
Daniel 


'[  Kemsen 
I  Cholot 
t Jacob 


'Davis  W. 
James 
Darius 
-J  Theo.  Hale 
William 
Eliza 
Lydia 
Martha 

(  Freeman 
"/  Henry  V. 

■{  Darwin  A. 


j  William  S. 
(  Davis 


j  Davis 
I  Sanford 


It  is  said  that  when  the  sons  of  Lawrence  came  to  man's 
estate,  he  divided  his  mile  square  of  land,  reserving  two  farms 
for  himself,  giving  the  farm  lately  occupied  by  Henry  V. 
Schuler  to  his  eldest  son,  John,  and  the  farm  adjoining,  on 
the  road  to  Minaville,  to  his  son  Solomon  one  each  to  the 
east  to  his  sons  Lawrence  and  Jacob,  and  reserving  the 
balance,  being  two  parts  of  the  whole,  for  the  homestead 
farm.  The  old  homestead  formerly  stood  in  the  field  back  of 
the  present  farmhouse  of  Fletcher  Ernest,  and  the  homestead 


404  The  Mohawk  Valley 

farm  comprised  the  two  farms  now  owned  by  Charles  Fergu- 
son and  Fletcher  Ernest. 

Only  one  of  these  farms  remains  in  the  family,  and  that  is 
the  farm  given  to  John,  which  has  descended  as  follows: 
From  John  to  Daniel,  to  Henry  V.,  to  Darwin  A.,  the 
present  owner,  son  of  Cholot, 

Solomon  Schuler's  farm  has  been  transferred  as  follows: 
Solomon  Schuler  to  Rufus  Herrick,  Rufus  Herrick  to  Davis 
Herrick,  Davis  Herrick  to  Charles  W.  McClumpha,  Charles  W. 
McClumpha  to  George  McClumpha,  his  son,  the  present  owner. 

On  a  hill  we  stopped  to  rest.  In  front  of  us,  and  about 
midway  between  the  house  of  Charles  Ferguson  and  Fletcher 
Ernest,  and  directly  in  front  of  our  resting-place,  is  the  site  of 
the  first  church  in  Minaville,  and  one  of  the  first  in  the  town 
of  Florida.  It  stood  in  the  centre  of  the  churchyard,  which 
was  also  the  first  cemetery  in  that  section  of  the  country. 
Off  to  the  east  may  be  seen  the  square  tower  and  white 
building  known  as  the  Scotch  Church,  while  in  front  of  us, 
about  a  mile  away,  but  hidden  from  sight  by  a  woods,  is 
situated  the  successor  of  the  old  church  on  the  hill.  From 
Beers's  History  I  take  the  following: 

Lawrence  Schuler  was  a  man  distinguished  for  good  sense,  tem- 
pered by  a  spirit  of  piety  and  benevolence,  and  diffusing  an  influ- 
ence of  goodness  and  liberality  through  his  family  circle  as  well  as 
in  the  neighborhood.  The  first  Reformed  Dutch  church  in  the 
town  was  erected  on  his  lands,  as  was  also  the  neighborhood  school 
house.     He  contributed  towards  the  erection  and  support  of  both. 

To  this  church  the  Rev.  Thomas  Romeyn,  of  Caughnawaga,  was 
called  to  minister  in  1784,  and  he  served  acceptably  some  years. 
This  church  continued  in  use  until  1808,  when  another  was  erected 
at  the  "  Street,"  one  mile  west,  and  only  occasionally  was  service 
held  in  the  old  church  thereafter,  and  until  the  frame  was  sold  and 
removed  from  its  site.  The  burial  ground  around  it  had  become 
populous,  and  it  now  contains  many  ancient  headstones  with  quaint 
inscriptions. 


Canajoharie — The  Hills  of  Florida        405 

At  the  present  time  this  cemetery  seems  to  have  gone  the 
way  of  all  old  graveyards,  and  is  suffering  from  neglect  to  such 
an  extent  that  a  passer-by  would  hardly  know  that  the  simple 
wire  fence  that  surrounds  it  encloses  the  ashes  of  the  founders 
of  Florida.  The  dense  mass  of  rose  and  briar  bushes  and 
weeds  of  thrifty  growth  have  produced  a  thicket  around  and 
over  the  sunken  graves  almost  as  impenetrable  as  the  chapar- 
ral of  the  flowery  peninsular  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  In  fact, 
I  was  able  to  decipher  but  a  very  few  of  the  inscriptions  on 
the  tombstones.  It  seems  a  pity  that  this  old  graveyard, 
probably  the  oldest  in  Florida,  around  which  hover  so  many 
sad  and  tender  memories,  should  not  receive  enough  attention 
from  the  proper  authorities  to  render  these  old  tombstones 
legible.  The  wisdom  of  setting  aside  a  fund  for  the  perpetual 
care  of  cemeteries  is  apparent  when  we  reflect  on  the  condition 
of  this  old  graveyard. 

It    is    said    that   at   the   beginning   of   the    last    century 

Cranesville,  Amsterdam  (Veddersburg),   and    Minaville  were 

about  the  same  size,  with  odds  in  favor  of  Minaville.     Very 

early   in   the  settlement  of  the  last-named  place,   some  wag 

fastened  upon  it  the  name  of  Yankee  Street,  which  was  after- 

» 
ward  contracted  to  "  The  street,"  by  which  name  it  was  known 

for  many  years.  At  that  time  Port  Jackson  was  without  a 
name,  except  Chuctanunda,  and  contained  but  two  or  three 
houses,  while  below,  to  the  east,  was  Warrensburg,  where  con- 
siderable business  was  transacted.  In  the  latter  part  of  the 
eighteenth  century  Yankee  Street  was  the  centre  or  capital  of 
Florida,  where  the  pioneer  farmers  went  to  get  their  supplies. 
From  Beers's  History  we  make  the  following  extract : 

Minaville,  nearest  the  geographical  center  of  the  town,  received 
its  name  in  1818,  replacing  the  not  very  distinctive  title  "the 
street,"  or  its  less  elegant  form  "  Yankee  street,"  by  which  it  was 
long  known.     It  was  early  and  for  many  years  quite  a  center  of 


4o6  The  Mohawk  Valley 

country  trade.  It  is  prettily  situated  in  a  wide,  verdant  bowl  whose 
southern  rim  is  the  Shellstone  and  Bean  Hill  ranges,  and  its 
northern  horizon  a  lower  line  of  ridges,  forming  a  woody  fringe. 
Through  it  flows  the  winding  Chuctanunda.  The  quiet  air  of  thrift 
and  comfort  that  rests  upon  the  place  is  not  unattractive,  and  one 
could  find  here  a  pleasant  home  if  seeking  seclusion,  the  world  for- 
getting and  by  the  world  forgot. 

Two  churches,  stores,  a  hotel,  schoolhouse,  cheese  factory, 
and  several  shops  are  comprised  in  the  village. 

The  Reformed  church,  the  successor  of  the  "  old  church 
on  the  hill,"  was  built  in  1808,  and  the  Methodist  Church  in 
1835.  No  wonder  the  stores  were  well  patronized,  when  we 
read  the  names  of  the  farmers  who  traded  there,  some  as  early 
as  1785:  David  Cady,  Nathan  Stanton,  Ezra  Murray,  Law- 
rence Schuler,  Daniel  Schuler,  Philip  and  Peer  Frederick, 
William  and  Peter  Young,  George  and  Jacob  Staley,  John  Van 
Derveer,  Peter  and  Jacob  Houck,  Elisha  Cady,  George,  Peter, 
and  Christian  Serviss,  Rooleiffe  Covenhoven,  Asa  Waterman, 
John  Quackenboss,  Ephraim  Brockway,  Lewis  Phillip,  Philip 
Doty,  Cornelius  Phillip,  William  Phillip  and  Cornelius  Phillip, 
the  second,  and  a  host  of  others. 

But  why  was  the  place  called  Minaville  ?  We  are  told  that 
it  was  named  in  1818  by  George  Smith,  who  occupies  a 
prominent  place  in  the  social  and  political  annals  of  the  town, 
and  who  was  a  courteous  and  successful  merchant.  He  married 
two  daughters  of  Judge  David  Cady,  and  built  a  residence 
which,  at  the  time  of  its  erection,  was  regarded  as  the  finest  in 
the  county.  He  subsequently  purchased  and  improved  Fort 
Johnson,  and  dwelt  there  until  his  death. 

He  was  the  grandfather  of  George  Smith  Devendorf,  of 
Amsterdam,  and  Dr.  Charles  A,  Devendorf,  of  Detroit,  Mich. 

It  is  said  that  he  named  the  hamlet  after  General  Mina,  a 
Spaniard,     Why  ?     There  were  two  Spanish  generals  of  that 


Canajoharie — The  Hills  of  Florida        407 

name.  Gen.  Francis  Mina,  a  Spanish  guerilla,  harassed 
the  French  troops  under  Napoleon  in  Spain,  and  accom- 
panied by  his  nephew,  Xavier,  was  captured  by  the  French 
during  the  Peninsular  War,  and  detained  in  Vincennes 
four  years.  He  afterward  went  to  England  and  became  in- 
terested in  the  cause  of  the  Mexican  patriots  in  their  struggle 
for  independence.  After  receiving  some  aid  in  England,  he 
sailed  for  America  in  1816.  In  the  United  States  he  received 
sympathy  and  substantial  aid  and  about  two  hundred  Amer- 
ican volunteers.  At  Galveston  he  was  reinforced  by  one 
hundred  more  Americans,  and  in  April,  1817,  he  landed  in 
Mexico  with  five  hundred  men  and  marched  direct  to  the 
capital,  cutting  his  way  through  such  bodies  of  Spaniards  as 
he  met. 

He  was  successful  in  a  number  of  engagements,  but  was  at 
length  surprised  at  night,  captured,  and  put  to  death  in  front 
of  the  Fortress  of  Remedias,  October  27,  1817. 

This  was  the  man  for  whom  Minaville  was  named,  not  be- 
cause he  was  a  Spaniard,  but  because  he  was  a  brave  man  and 
the  leader  of  American  Volunteers  fighting  for  the  inde- 
pendence of  an  alien  nation,  and  then,  as  in  our  recent  war  in 
Cuba,  against  the  tyrannical  Spaniards. 

In  speaking  of  the  descendants  of  Lawrence  Schuler,  I  have 
only  been  able  to  follow  the  male  line  of  his  family.  I  have 
been  told  that  Dr.  John  Delamater,  uncle  of  Mrs.  Davis 
Schuler,  made  an  attempt  to  make  a  genealogical  record  of 
the  Schuler  family.  He  succeeded  very  well  with  the  male 
line,  but  the  record  of  the  female  line,  with  all  the  marriages 
and  intermarriages,  he  gave  up  as  a  hopeless  task,  and  he 
having  failed,  I  feel  that  I  am  excusable  for  not  undertaking  it. 

Dr.  John  Delamater  was  born  and  reared  in  the  town  of 
Florida,  and  became  a  physician  of  eminence.  For  many 
years  he  was  an  able  professor  in  his  calling,  at  Fairfield  and 


4o8  The  Mohawk  Valley 

at  Cleveland,  Ohio.  He  died  there,  a  "  beloved  physician," 
for  his  amiable  disposition,  gentle  manners,  and  goodness  of 
heart. 


On  the  highest  point  of  the  first  range  of  the  Florida  hills, 
which  the  French  invaders  in  1693  called  mountains,  is  a 
tract  of  land  formerly  part  of  the  Peter  Warren  grant,  which 
is  now  known  as  the  Van  Derveer  farm.  After  the  war  of 
Revolution,  between  1790  and  1791,  John  Van  Derveer,  a 
native  of  New  Jersey,  but  of  Holland  descent,  settled  on  this 
land,  then  in  its  pristine  ruggedness.  Imagine  if  you  can  the 
view  that  met  his  eye  and  perhaps  influenced  his  selection  of 
a  home  for  his  family  in  the  Mohawk  Valley  over  a  century 
ago.  Coming  as  he  did  from  the  sandy  flats  of  New  Jersey, 
the  sight  must  have  seemed  grand  and  beautiful.  Immedi- 
ately in  front  of  him  were  the  primitive  forests,  whose  tops  of 
various  shades  of  green  and  brown  rolled  in  undulating  waves 
as  they  conformed  to  the  receding  slopes  of  hills  that 
stretched  away  on  either  side  of  the  Mohawk  River. 

Westward,  hid  from  view  by  hills  and  forests,  lay  Fort 
Hunter,  whose  palisades  enclosed  the  ruined  chapel  of  Queen 
Anne;  nearer,  on  the  north  side,  stood  Fort  Johnson  and  Guy 
Park,  both  lately  vacated  by  their  fugitive  owners. 

A  line  of  gray  between  the  river  and  the  green  bank  above 
marked  the  Juchtanunda  of  the  Mohawk,  the  rock  'shelter 
along  the  shore  of  the  Indians.  ' 

Following  the  bank  of  the  river  a  little  farther  eastward, 
the  northern  Chuctanunda  pours  its  foaming,  turbulent  tide 
into  the  river  which,  in  the  distance,  washes  the  base  of  the 
cliff  of  pictured  rocks.  Still  gazing  toward  the  east  he  sees  in 
the  dim  distance  the  Kinaquarione  or  Towereune  of  the 
Indians. 


Canajoharie — The  Hills  of  Florida        409 

The  stream  itself  is  an  avenue  of  commerce,  and  the 
laden  bateaux  of  the  boatman  may  be  seen  gliding  along 
by  means  of  pole  and  paddle.  Along  the  north  bank  are 
trains  of  heavy  canvass-covered  wagons  making  tedious  haste, 
with  four,  six,  and  perhaps  ten  horses,  and,  perhaps,  a  well- 
filled  Concord  coach  and  files  of  Continental  soldiers. 

If  he  allows  his  gaze  to  span  the  valley,  his  eye  rests  on 
another  range  of  hills  of  equal  height  with  his  own,  and  per- 
haps even  then  he  covets  the  land  which  after  three  decades 
became  the  property  of  a  member  of  his  family. 

John  Van  Derveer  and  his  wife  Katherine  Conover  lived 
in  Florida  over  half  a  century,  and,  with  their  sons  and  daugh- 
ters, became  a  family  of  wealth  and  influence. 

By  marriage  the  family  may  be  traced  to  the  descendants 
of  nearly  all  the  oldest  and  most  prominent  families  of  the 
present  towns  of  Florida  and  Amsterdam. 

One  of  his  ancestors,  Cornelius  Janse  Van  Derveer  (Cor- 
nelius, son  of  John  from  the  ferry),  emigrated  in  the  ship  Otter 
in  1659  from  Alkmaer  in  North  Holland  to  New  Amsterdam 
(now  New  York).  He  settled  in  Flatbush,  Long  Island, 
where  he  was  magistrate  in  1678-80.  There  he  married 
Teyntje  (Catherine),  daughter  of  Yilles  (Giles)  de  Mandeville. 
Her  father  came  from  Gelderland  in  Holland  to  New  Amster- 
dam in  1659,  being  one  of  the  Huguenots  who  were  so 
numerous  among  the  early  immigrants  and  who  by  their 
knowledge  of  textile  industries  formed  so  valuable  an  addition 
to  the  early  settlements  in  this  country.  Cornelius  Van  Der- 
veer and  Teyntje  his  wife  had  numerous  children,  among 
them  Dominicus,  who  had  several  children,  one  of  them  being 
Tunis,  who  was  the  first  of  the  family  to  settle  in  New  Jersey 
and  was  the  grandfather  of  John,  spoken  of  above,  and  his 
brothers  Garrett  and  Hendrick,  all  of  whom  located  in  the 
Mohawk  Valley  about  1790. 


4IO  The  Mohawk  Valley 

The  New  Jersey  family  must  have  been  exceedingly 
wealthy  for  those  early  days  of  our  country,  as  it  is  said  that 
John  Van  Derveer,  the  subject  of  this  sketch,  brought  with 
him  to  his  Florida  farm  eighty  thousand  dollars  in  cash. 

The  land  was  purchased  of  one  John  Watts,  a  relative  of 
the  wife  of  Sir  John  Johnson. 

John  Van  Derveer  had  eight  children,  five  sons  and  three 
daughters.  Of  the  sons,  Garrett  was  born  in  1799,  and  in- 
herited the  homestead  farms  now  occupied  by  his  descendants. 
John,  at  middle  age,  moved  to  Schenectady,  where  he  died  a 
few  years  ago.  Cornelius  came  to  the  village  of  Amsterdam, 
and  later  in  life  was  killed  by  a  premature  blast  in  the  eastern 
part  of  the  village,  leaving  a  wife  and  three  children, — J. 
Watts  Van  Derveer,  at  one  time  clerk  of  the  county,  Emily, 
who  married  D.  P.  Corey,  and  Helena,  who  married  Harvey 
Kennedy  of  New  York. 

Jennie,  the  eldest  child,  married  Joseph  Stanton,  and  for 
her  second  husband,  John  Sherburne. 

Catharine  became  the  wife  of  Peter  I.  Enders. 

Of  the  daughters,  Sarah,  married  a  Serviss,  and  for  her 
second  husband,  James  Greenman. 

Henry  Van  Derveer  married  a  Miss  Conover.  He  died 
young,  and  his  wife  and  son  soon  followed  him. 

The  possession  of  so  large  a  sum  of  money  as  eighty 
thousand  dollars  made  it  very  easy  for  John  Van  Derveer, 
Sr.  to  acquire  land  in  his  vicinity,  and  in  1822  he  secured 
of  Nicholas  Vedder  a  portion  of  the  large  tract  of  land  known 
as  the  Tunis  I.  Van  Derveer  estate,  being  located  on  the  first 
range  of  hills  north  of  the  Mohawk  River,  opposite  to 
the  homestead  farm.  This  land  was  immediately  occupied 
by  his  son,  Tunis  I.  Van  Derveer,  who  continued  to  add  to  the 
first  purchase  as  opportunities  presented  themselves. 


Chapter  XXI 
Oriskany 

IN  the  month  of  August,  1777,  occurred  two  of  the  most 
important  battles  of  the  Revolution,  the  results  of 
which  were  finally  seen  in  the  surrender  at  Saratoga 
of  General  Burgoyne  to  General  Gates  and  the  vic- 
torious Americans,  when  the  campaign,  begun  with  the  bom- 
bastic proclamation  of  the  British  General,  who  signed  his 
name,  "  John  Burgoyne,  Esquire,  Lieutenant-General  of  His 
Majesty's  forces  in  America,  Colonel  of  the  Queen's  Regiment 
of  Light  Dragoons,  Governor  of  Fort  William  in  North  Britain, 
one  of  the  Commons  of  Great  Britain  in  Parliament,  and  com- 
manding an  army  and  fleet  on  an  expedition  from  Canada, 
etc.,  etc.,"  ended  in  the  complete  and  humiliating  defeat  of 
that  windy  gentleman.  "  I  have,"  says  the  proclamation, 
but  to  give  stretch  to  the  Indian  forces  under  my  direction, 
and  they  amount  to  thousands,  to  overtake  the  hardened 
enemies  of  Great  Britain  and  America.  I  consider  them  the 
same  where  ever  they  may  lurk."  The  battles  I  speak  of  are 
those  of  Bennington  and  Oriskany.  It  was  at  the  battle  of 
Bennington  that  he  received  the  first  check  to  his  victorious 
march  to  Albany  through  the  Champlain  Valley,  and  at 
Oriskany  and  Fort  Schuyler,  the  turning  back  of  the  attend- 
ant expedition  to  Albany  by  the  way  of  the  Mohawk  Valley. 
The  plan  of  the  Campaign  of  Burgoyne  was  arranged  in 
London  and  provided  for  a  force  of  four  thousand  British 
troops  and  three  thousand  German,  to  which  were  added  some 

411 


412  The  Mohawk  Valley 

Canadians  and  a  body  of  Indians.  An  auxiliary  force  under 
Colonel  St.  Leger  was  to  leave  Montreal  for  Oswego  simul- 
taneous with  Burgoyne's  expedition  through  the  Champlain 
Valley,  and  there  join  a  body  of  Tories  under  Sir  John^ 
Johnson  and  Indians  under  Brant,  who  were  to  clear  the 
Mohawk  Valley  and  join  Burgoyne  and  General  Howe  (who 
was  to  proceed  up  the  Hudson)  at  Albany. 

In  1758,  at  the  head  of  boat  navigation  on  the  Mohawk 
River,  where  the  village  of  Rome  now  stands,  was  erected 
a  fort  for  the  protection  of  the  settlers  against  the  French 
and  Indians  during  the  last  French  War,  This  was  named 
Fort  Stanwix;  although  strongly  built  it  was  found  to 
be  untenable  at  the  beginning  of  the  Revolution,  and  in 
1776  a  new  fort  was  built  and  named  Fort  Schuyler  in 
honor  of  General  Philip  Schuyler.  (This  name  seems  to 
have  been  a  favorite  one  for  fortifications.  In  1709  a  fort  was 
erected  on  the  Hudson  near  Schuylerville,  and  a  little  later  a 
rude  fort  was  built  on  the  present  site  of  Utica,  both  of  which 
were  named  for  Peter  Schuyler.  The  earlier  one  was  destroyed 
by  its  builders,  and  the  later,  decayed  through  neglect.) 
Previous  to  this,  a  rude  stockade  fort  stood  on  this  site  and  was 
called  Fort  Williams  from  its  commandant,  a  Captain  Williams. 
It  is  spoken  of  as  being  well  built,  having  four  pieces  of 
cannon  and  garrisoned  with  one  hundred  and  fifty  men.  It 
was  destroyed  by  General  Webb  in  1756  after  the  fall  of 
Oswego.  Four  miles  away  on  Wood  Creek  at  the  western 
end  of  the  carrying-place  between  said  creek  and  the  Mohawk 
River,  was  another  fort  named  Fort  Bull.  March  27,  1756,  this 
was  attacked  by  a  party  of  French  and  Indians  under  Monsieur 
de  Lery,  the  defenders  of  the  fort  were  massacred,  and  the 
fort  was  blown  up  and  burned.  It  is  said  that  this  fort  was 
rebuilt  about  two  miles  from  the  present  city  of  Rome  and  is 
probably  the  Fort  Bute  of  the  Tryon  map  of  1779.     The  siege 


THE    ORISKANY    MONUMENT 


413 


Oriskany  415 

of  Fort  Schuyler  and  the  attendant  battle  at  Oriskany  form 
a  theme  of  never-ending  interest  to  the  dwellers  of  the 
Mohawk  Valley,  many  of  whose  ancestors  were  active  partici- 
pants in  that  gruesome  engagement.  In  April,  1777,  Colonel 
Peter  Gansevoort,  of  the  New  York  line,  was  appointed  to 
the  command  of  Fort  Schuyler,  and  when  he  reached  the  post 
he  found  the  works  in  an  unfinished  state  and  "  not  only  in- 
defensible but  untenable."  On  the  29th  of  May,  Colonel 
Marinus  Willett  was  directed  to  join  the  garrison  at  Fort 
Schuyler  with  his  regiment,  and,  with  the  active  assistance  of 
that  officer,  Colonel  Gansevoort  proceeded  to  put  the  fort  into 
as  defensible  state  as  the  circumstances  would  permit  without 
knowing  the  character  or  strength  of  the  enemy  they  were 
destined  to  oppose.  The  garrison  consisted  of  950  men,  and 
although  they  had  a  plentiful  supply  of  ammunition  for  small 
arms,  they  had  only  about  four  hundred  rounds  for  the  can- 
non. In  June,  information  was  received  from  a  spy,  a 
friendly  Oneida  half-breed  sachem  named  Thomas  Spencer, 
that  a  body  of  troops  consisting  of  seven  hundred  Indians 
under  command  of  Joseph  Brant  and  four  hundred  regulars 
and  six  hundred  Tories  under  Sir  John  Johnson  and  Colonel 
John  Butler,  the  whole  force  under  command  of  Colonel  St. 
Leger,  were  to  rendezvous  at  Oswego  and  from  thence  pro- 
ceed to  the  Mohawk  Valley  with  Fort  Schuyler  as  their 
objective  point.  This  information  instead  of  arousing  the 
phlegmatic  Germans  of  the  upper  valley  to  prompt  and  effi- 
cient action,  seemed  to  paralyze  them  with  fear.  The  timid 
became  backward  in  preparing  for  the  field,  while  the  wavering 
became  Loyalists,  or  at  the  best  passive  Whigs.  To  counter- 
act this  effect  General  Herkimer  issued  a  stirring  proclamation 
informing  the  inhabitants  of  the  gathering  of  the  enemy's 
forces  at  Oswego  and  calling  upon  all  between  the  ages  of 
sixteen  and  sixty  to  hold  themselves  in  readiness  to  repair  to 


4i6  The  Mohawk  Valley 

the  field,  while  the  invalids  and  those  over  sixty  years  of  age 
were  directed  to  arm  themselves  for  the  defence  of  the  women 
and  children,  and  for  the  protection  of  their  homes.  The  dis- 
affected were  also  ordered  to  be  arrested  and  disarmed.  The 
appeal  was  not  without  its  effect,  and  the  militia  and  the 
people,  stimulated  by  the  near  approach  of  danger,  moved 
with  a  degree  of  alacrity  which  contrasted  strongly  with  their 
former  apathy. 

On  the  3d  of  August,  Colonel  St.  Leger  arrived  before  the 
fort  with  his  whole  force  of  blatant  Tories  and  howling  sav- 
ages, and  a  pompous  demand  was  sent  to  Colonel  Gansevoort 
which  dealt  liberally  in  threats  of  vengeance  to  those  who 
refused  to  recognize  the  King  and  submit  to  his  authority. 
No  notice  being  paid  the  demand,  hostilities  commenced  on 
the  morning  of  the  4th  of  August.  St.  Leger  at  this  juncture 
sent  a  despatch  to  General  Burgoyne  expressing  his  assurance 
that  Fort  Schuyler  would  be  in  his  possession  directly,  and 
the  hope  that  they  would  meet  as  victors  at  Albany. 

An  interesting  episode  is  connected  with  this  siege  which 
I  think  is  not  generally  known.  On  the  14th  of  June,  1777, 
Congress  ordained  that  the  flag  of  the  thirteen  United  States 
should  be  thirteen  stripes,  alternate  red  and  white,  and  that  the 
union  be  thirteen  white  stars  on  a  blue  field.  In  August, 
1777,  Fort  Schuyler  was  without  a  flag  when  the  enemy  ap- 
peared, but  their  pride  and  ingenuity  were  equal  to  the  occa- 
sion. The  white  stripes  were  made  from  strips  cut  from 
shirts,  the  red  from  bits  of  scarlet  cloth,  and  the  blue  ground 
for  the  stars,  from  a  cloak  belonging  to  Captain  Abraham 
Swartout,  of  Dutchess  County.  This  is  thought  to  have  been 
the  first  flag  of  the  regulation  stars  and  stripes  that  was  raised 
above  a  fort  in  the  United  States. 

The  arrival  of  St.  Leger  at  Fort  Schuyler  soon  became 
known  throughout  the  Mohawk  Valley,  and  General  Herki- 


Oriskany  417 

mer  summoned  the  inhabitants  in  accordance  with  his  pro- 
clamation. They  nobly  responded  ;  not  only  the  militia,  but 
the  gentlemen  of  the  county  and  members  of  the  Committee 
of  Safety  hastened  to  Fort  Dayton,  now  Herkimer,  and  on 
the  5th  day  of  August,  when  the  Indians  invested  Fort 
Schuyler  and  by  their  hideous  yells  attempted  to  intimidate 
the  garrison,  Herkimer  was  at  Whitestown,  eight  miles  from 
the  fort,  with  eight  hundred  undisciplined  but  brave  and 
enthusiastic  troops  eager  to  face  the  enemy,  having  crossed  to 
the  south  side  of  the  Mohawk  at  old  Fort  Schuyler  (Utica). 

While  the  party  remained  at  that  place  General  Herkimer 
sent  Adam  Helmer  and  two  trusty  men  to  apprise  Colonel 
Gansevoort  of  his  approach  and  concert  measures  of  co-opera- 
tion. Three  successive  discharges  of  cannon  were  to  announce 
the  arrival  of  the  couriers,  which  he  knew  could  be  plainly 
heard  at  the  encampment.  Having  experienced  considerable 
difficulty  in  approaching  the  fort,  Adam.  Helmer  did  not  suc- 
ceed in  entering  until  ten  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  6th. 
The  signal  guns  were  immediately  fired,  and,  as  the  message 
of  General  Herkimer  intimated  his  intention  to  force  a  pass- 
age to  the  fort,  a  sortie  was  immediately  arranged  for  the 
purpose  of  diverting  the  attention  of  the  enemy. 

On  the  4th,  when  Herkimer  and  his  troops  left  Fort  Day- 
ton, Thomas  Spencer,  the  faithful  Oneida,  was  with  him. 
Noticing  the  impetuosity  of  the  men  and  the  total  disregard 
to  all  order  of  marching,  without  reconnoitering  or  throwing 
out  flanking  parties,  he  insisted  upon  these  precautionary 
measures  being  adopted,  in  which  he  was  joined  by  General 
Herkimer  and  some  of  the  older  officers.  The  junior  officers 
ridiculed  the  idea  and  General  Herkimer,  contrary  to  his  own 
judgment,  did  not  enforce  the  order. 

On  the  morning  of  the  6th,  a  renewal  of  these  scenes  took 

place  in  Herkimer's  camp.     With  the  same  caution  which  the 

27 


4i8  The  Mohawk  Valley 

General  had  previously  manifested,  he  desired  to  remain 
where  he  was  until  some  evidence  was  received  that  a  move- 
ment from  the  fort  had  been  made.  The  new-born  zeal  of  his 
junior  officers  revolted  at  the  idea,  and  angry  words  ensued,  in 
which  the  brave  but  cautious  old  man  was  denounced  by 
Colonels  Cox  and  Paris  as  a  coward  and  a  Tory.  This  bitter 
taunt  sank  deep  into  his  heart,  but  he  answered  calmly,  "  I 
am  placed  over  you  as  a  father  and  guardian,  and  I  will  not 
lead  you  into  difficulties  from  which  I  may  not  be  able  to 
extricate  you,"  There  was  a  brief  interchange  of  further  hot 
words  between  the  General,  Colonel  Bellinger,  and  John  Frey 
on  one  side,  and  the  mutinous  colonels  and  men  on  the  other, 
while  the  old  man  stood  defiant,  with  chin  raised  and  dark 
blazing  eyes.  The  confusion  became  unbearable  and  the 
shouts  of  "  Lead  on!  Lead  on!"  from  the  crowd  more 
vehement.  Suddenly  Herkimer  sprang  upon  a  log,  too  much 
incensed  to  control  himself  and  cried,  "  If  you  will  have  it  so, 
the  blood  be  upon  your  heads."  Waving  his  sword,  he 
shouted  in  a  voice  all  the  eight  hundred  could  hear,  "  Vor- 
warts!"  Instantly,  with  exultant  cheers,  the  men  rushed  for 
their  arms,  officers  their  horses,  and  the  teamsters  the  baggage 
train,  everyone  eager  to  reach  the  enemy  without  regard  to 
their  order  of  going.  Through  the  efforts  of  the  General  the 
four  regiments  were  brought  into  a  semblance  of  order,  with 
Colonel  Visscher  and  the  Caughnawaga  company  in  the  rear 
as  guard  of  the  ammunition  and  supply  wagons,  and  so, 
marching  swiftly  and  without  scouts,  at  nine  in  the  morning 
they  started  forth. 

Information  of  the  approach  of  General  Herkimer  having 
reached  Colonel  St.  Leger  on  the  evening  of  the  5th,  and  the 
latter  preferring  to  receive  him  in  the  field  rather  than  in  his 
camp,  detached  eighty  men  of  Sir  John  Johnson's  Royal  Greens, 
under  Major  Watts,  Sir  John's  brother-in-law,  and  the  entire 


Oriskany  419 

body  of  Indians  under  Joseph  Brant,  the  whole  under  com- 
mand of  Sir  John  Johnson,  to  intercept  his  approach.  It  ap- 
pears that  the  influence  of  Brant  prevailed,  and  that  it  was 
determined  to  draw  the  Americans  into  an  ambuscade.  For 
this  purpose,  with  a  sagacity  which  does  even  that  remarkable 
man  great  credit,  a  position  was  selected  which  was  admirably 
adapted  for  his  purpose  about  two  miles  west  from  Oriskany 
and  six  from  Whitesboro.  At  this  place  were  two  short  ravines 
running  from  south  to  north  both  opening  to  the  north  and 
separated  by  a  level  plateau  of  perhaps  ten  acres  about  fifty 
feet  above  the  bottom  of  the  ravines.  This  plateau  gradually 
narrowed  to  a  rounded  point  as  the  ravines  opened  out  and 
gradually  merged  into  the  swampy  flats  that  stretch  north  to 
the  Mohawk  River  three-quarters  of  a  mile  away.  The 
westernmost  ravine  was  the  rendezvous  of  the  British  troops, 
who  were  stationed  along  its  upper  eastern  edge,  effectually 
concealed  by  its  fringe  of  low  trees  and  bushes.  The  Indians 
rapidly  took  their  positions  around  the  south,  north,  and 
eastern  edge  of  the  easterly  ravine,  nearly  enclosing  it  except 
where  the  rude  road  of  logs  (constructed  earlier  in  the  year  by 
Colonel  Gansevoort  for  easier  carriage  of  cannon  and  supplies 
for  Fort  Schuyler,  six  miles  away)  ran  down  and  over  the 
swampy  bottom  of  the  fatal  ravine.  All  around  were  trees 
and  low  bushes  and  the  attendant  rotting  logs  and  tree  trunks, 
while  tangled  masses  of  dead  branches  and  underbrush  bor- 
dered each  side  of  the  rough  road  that  stretched  out  east  and 
west  until  lost  in  the  gloom  of  the  forest,  while  the  swampy 
flats,  dimly  seen  through  the  mouth  of  the  ravine,  were 
covered  with  tall  swamp  grass  and  the  long,  flat  leaves  of  cat- 
tail and  calamus,  with  here  and  there  a  scrub  pine  or  willow, 
making  a  treacherous  concealment  for  the  naked  savages. 
Occasionally  a  group  of  pond  lilies  and  other  aquatic  flowers 
added  color  and  beauty  to  the  diversified  landscape. 


420  The  Mohawk  Valley 

Meanwhile  General  Herkimer  had  moved  on  from  the 
mouth  of  Oriskany  Creek  entirely  unconscious  of  the  ambus- 
cade two  miles  away.  Their  route  lay  along  the  firm  lowlands 
for  about  a  mile,  the  road  gradually  bearing  to  the  south  and 
up  the  low  forest-covered  hills  that  led  to  the  fatal  ravine. 
The  morning  was  dark,  sultry,  and  lowering,  and  the  mutter- 
ing of  distant  thunder  was  in  the  air,  unheeded  or  unnoticed 
by  the  troops  whose  minds  were  intent  upon  reaching  the  fort. 

The  Canajoharie  regiment,  with  General  Herkimer  and 
Colonels  Cox  and  Paris  in  the  van,  was  the  first  to  reach  the 
eastern  edge  of  the  slope  down  which  the  corduroy  road  ran 
to  the  marshy  bottom  of  the  ravine. 

The  general  and  the  colonels  spoken  of  above  seem  to 
have  been  at  the  head  of  the  troops  down  this  rough  road, 
followed  in  a  joyous  and  rollicking  manner  by  three  regiments 
and  the  baggage  train.  The  van  had  nearly  reached  the  top 
of  the  western  slope  and  the  balance  of  the  troops  were 
huddled  together  at  the  narrow  crossing,  and  the  baggage 
train  was  waiting  for  an  opportunity  to  cross.  Colonel  Viss- 
cher  with  the  Caughnawaga  company  was  yet  on  the  top  of 
the  hill  waiting  for  the  bridge  or  ford  to  become  cleared 
before  descending.  Those  on  the  other  side  were  looking 
back  to  see  the  wagon  making  its  way  down  the  hill.  Colonel 
Cox  was  giving  an  order  to  those  below  when  the  report  of  a 
rifle  was  heard  and  Colonel  Cox  fell  headlong  upon  the  neck 
of  his  horse,  which  turned  and  at  a  mad  gallop  dashed  down 
the  slope  and  into  the  startled  crowd  at  the  ford.  Instantly, 
as  though  the  rifle  shot  had  been  a  signal  for  action,  swarms 
of  red  devils  dashed  upon  the  Visscher  company,  firing  and 
yelling  as  if  in  hellish  delight,  separating  them  from  the 
troops  below,  and  fairly  overwhelming  them  with  superior 
numbers,  at  the  same  time  completing  the  cordon  that  was 
drawn  around  the    doomed  Americans  in  the  valley  below, 


NO.    I. ORISKANY  BATTLF.-I  IKI.n,    EAST  SIDK  OF  RAVINE. 

Herkimer's  troops  were  massed  at  the  Log  Road  through  the  swamp.     Swamp  in  the 

foreground. 


421 


Oriskany  423 

while  from  every  tree  and  bush  rang  out  the  report  of  rifle  and 
the  war-cry  of  the  Indians. 

Then  ensued  a  scene  of  direst  confusion,  as  the  troops  at 
the  crossing  realized  that  they  were  completely  surrounded  by 
hordes  of  naked,  painted,  savage  devils,  with  apparently  no 
avenue  of  escape.  At  the  first  discharge  many  had  been  killed 
while  others,  wounded,  had  fallen  into  the  slimy  marsh  either 
to  be  drowned  or  to  receive  the  death  stroke  by  hatchet  or 
knife  from  the  foe  who  became  bold  at  the  evidently  helpless 
situation  of  the  soldiers. 

To  return  a  moment  to  Colonel  Visscher  and  part  of  the 
Caughnawaga  company  who  had  become  separated  from  the 
main  body  of  troops.  Finding  themselves  assailed  on  three 
sides  the  company  rapidly  retreated,  firing  as  they  went,  be- 
hind tree  and  bush  in  true  backwoodsmen  fashion,  drawing 
the  Indians  after  them,  who  were  intent  upon  their  death  or 
capture  and  neglecting  for  the  time  being  their  duty  on  the 
hilltop  in  their  frenzied  pursuit. 

General  Herkimer,  although  taken  by  surprise,  seems  to 
have  risen  equal  to  the  occasion.  Urging  his  horse  down  the 
hill  slope,  with  energetic  efforts  he  succeeded  in  pulling  the 
troops  who  had  already  crossed  up  to  the  level  plateau  where 
they  were  met  by  the  fire  of  Sir  John  Johnson's  Rangers  in 
front,  along  the  top  of  the  second  ravine,  and  the  fire  of  the 
Indians  concealed  on  both  flanks.  Noticing  that  the  fire  from 
along  the  eastern  slope  of  the  ravine  was  thin  and  somewhat 
irregular,  he  ordered  Colonel  Bellinger  and  the  soldiers  who 
had  not  yet  crossed  the  causeway  to  retake  the  hill.  Dashing 
through  the  hail  of  lead  on  both  flanks  the  stalwart  Palatine 
Germans  stormed  the  hillside  firing  to  kill  as  they  went  and 
then  meeting  their  antagonists  with  the  swinging  blows  of 
clubbed  muskets.  Regaining  the  hilltop,  they  formed  them- 
selves into  circular  squads,    leaving  the  bottom  of  the  fatal 


424  The  Mohawk  Valley 

ravine  to  the  dead  and  dying,  and  the  occasional  prowling 
painted  savage  with  ready  knife  searching  for  scalps  and 
plunder. 

It  was  at  the  time  that  Herkimer  had  succeeded  in  getting 
the  regiment  in  some  sort  of  order  on  the  plateau  that  he 
received  the  bullet  through  his  leg  which  at  the  same  time 
killed  his  horse.  He  was  taken  up  and  carried  up  the  slope 
to  the  plateau  and  placed  upon  his  saddle  at  the  foot  of  a 
large  beech  tree,  where,  having  lighted  his  pipe  he  sat  and 
continued  to  order  the  battle  with  the  utmost  firmness  and 
composure  until  the  enemy  retreated.  For  three-quarters  of 
an  hour  the  contest  continued  with  fury  on  both  sides.  At 
that  time  the  enemy  began  to  concentrate  his  forces  and  by 
slow  degrees  to  close  upon  the  Americans  from  all  points  of 
the  circle.  Noticing  this  movement  the  Americans  on  the 
plateau  formed  themselves  into  circles  and  their  resistance 
from  that  moment  became  more  effective.  To  counteract  it, 
the  fire  of  the  Tories  was  discontinued  and  the  enemy  charged 
with  the  bayonet;  and  then  more  than  ever  before  the  contest 
became  a  death  struggle,  hand  to  hand  and  foot  to  foot. 
Never  did  brave  men  stand  a  charge  with  more  dauntless 
courage,  and  the  enemy  made  no  impression. 

At  this  moment  a  blinding  flash  followed  by  a  crashing 
peal  of  heaven's  artillery  burst  upon  the  ears  of  the  combat- 
ants. Attent  upon  the  battle,  the  approach  of  the  thunder 
storm  had  been  unnoticed  until  it  burst  upon  them  with  in- 
conceivable fury.  The  roaring  wind,  the  swaying  of  the  tree 
tops,  and  the  sudden  downpour  of  rain  arrested  the  work 
of  death  and  drove  both  Indians  and  whites  to  seek  shelter 
under  trees  and  bushes.  For  nearly  an  hour  rain  fell  in 
torrents;  but  even  the  vivid  lightning,  the  furious  wind,  the 
rolling  thunder,  and  the  crashing  of  falling  trees,  did  not  pre- 
vent the  Americans  from  making  preparations  to  renew  the 


Oriskany  425 

deadly  struggle.  The  wounded  bound  up  their  wounds,  every 
musket  was  carefully  loaded  and  protected  from  the  rain,  each 
soldier  refreshed  himself  with  water  and  food,  and  waited 
impatiently  for  the  cessation  of  the  storm. 

General  Herkimer  had  formed  the  Americans  farther  up 
the  plateau  towards  the  south  and  had  succeeded  in  with- 
drawing the  troops  under  Colonel  Bellinger  and  Captain  Jacob 
Gardinier  from  the  east  side  of  the  ravine.  Formed  into  a 
circle,  each  man  protected  by  tree  or  log,  they  were  ordered 
to  adopt  a  new  mode  of  bush-fighting  to  counteract  the  opera- 
tions of  the  Indians,  who,  as  soon  as  they  saw  a  gun  dis- 
charged from  behind  a  tree  rushed  upon  and  tomahawked  the 
marksman  before  he  had  time  to  reload.  To  prevent  this, 
General  Herkimer  ordered  two  men  to  take  each  tree,  one  to 
fire  at  a  time  and  the  other  to  reserve  his  fire  for  the  Indian 
who  might  seek  their  scalps. 

In  imagination  I  can  see  the  bluff,  rugged  old  man,  whose 
tawny  Saxon  hair  veils  the  silver-gray  locks  that  would  be  a 
fitting  crown  for  his  years  of  life.  His  angular  form  and 
hardened  muscles  indicate  laborious  toil  and  exposure,  while 
the  slow,  automatic  movements  of  his  limbs  are  those  acquired 
by  following  the  plough  or  picking  his  way  over  broken  farm- 
land. On  his  bronzed,  careworn  face  is  a  look  of  pain,  but  his 
firm,  eager  eyes  scan  every  movement  of  his  beleaguered 
troops  and  the  red-skinned  enemy.  His  commands  are  given 
sharp  and  short,  like  the  quick  blue  puffs  of  smoke  from  his 
short  black  clay  pipe. 

It  is  pleasant  to  note  that,  however  rebellious  his  impetu- 
ous men  appeared  on  the  march,  his  orders  are  now  obeyed 
with  the  utmost  confidence  in  the  judgment  and  loyalty  of 
their  much-abused  leader. 

His  buff-faced  blue  coat  and  vest,  are  disordered  and 
blood-stained,  and  his  wounded  leg  nearly  bare,  bound   with 


426  The  Mohawk  Valley 

a  red  silk  handkerchief,  while  his  neck  and  breast  are  uncovered 
to  the  hot,  sultry  air. 

The  storm  at  length  passed  over,  and  amidst  one  of  the 
most  intensely  hot  days  the  battle  was  renewed  with  increas- 
ing fury.  The  new  position  of  the  Americans,  and  the  new 
system  of  bush-fighting,  however,  soon  produced  their  legiti- 
mate results,  and  the  Indians  suffered  severely,  so  much  so, 
indeed,  that  they  began  to  show  signs  of  uneasiness,  and 
Major  Watts  moved  forward  a  second  detachment  of  Royal 
Greens,  which  had  been  sent  out  by  Colonel  St.  Leger,  to  sup- 
port them.  These  men  were  Tories,  many  or  nearly  all  of 
them  from  Tryon  County  and  former  neighbors  of  the  men 
they  were  marching  against,  and  as  they  advanced  so  near  as 
to  afford  mutual  recognition,  the  contest  became  if  possible 
more  terrible  than  before.  Mutual  revenge  and  hate  raged  in 
their  bosoms.  The  Americans  fired  upon  them  as  they  ad- 
vanced, and  then  springing  from  their  covers  attacked  them 
with  bayonets  and  clubbed  muskets,  or  in  some  cases  with 
knife  or  bare  hands,  throttling  and  stabbing  each  other,  and 
sometimes  dying  in  each  other's  embrace.  It  was  at  this 
time  that  the  signal  guns  were  heard  from  the  fort, — an  evi- 
dence to  the  Americans  of  the  sortie  asked  for  by  General 
Herkimer — and  anxious  to  close  the  engagement  Colonel 
Butler  executed  a  stratagem  that  nearly  accomplished  that 
object.  He  so  changed  the  dress  of  a  detachment  of  Royal 
Greens  that  they  resem.bled  Americans,  using  the  hats  of  the 
dead  patriots  for  the  purpose.  These  men  were  made  to  ap- 
proach from  the  direction  of  the  fort  and  were  at  first  mis- 
taken for  reinforcements  from  the  garrison.  Directly  in  their 
path  was  Captain  Jacob  Gardinier  and  some  of  his  Caughna- 
waga  men.  The  burly  captain,  his  only  weapons  his  knife 
and  short  spear,  was  fighting  with  a  group  of  Tories  and 
Indians,  while  around  him  lay  four  of  the  enemy  slain  by  his 


Oriskany  429 

hand.  His  experienced  eye  discovered  the  real  character  of 
the  approaching  masquerade  and  ordering  his  men  to  fire  upon 
them  and  rushing  upon  them  himself,  followed  by  some  of  his 
men,  upwards  of  thirty  of  the  Tories  were  slain  and  the 
remainder  fled  in  disorder  The  Indians  perceiving  with 
what  order  the  Americans  opposed  the  enemy,  tired  and  sulky 
after  six  hours  furious  fighting,  raised  the  retreating  cry  of 
"  Oonah '  Oonah ! "  and  fled  in  every  direction,  while  the 
Tories,  perceiving  that  their  allies  had  deserted  them,  also 
retreated,  leaving  the  Tryon  County  militia  and  volunteers 
masters  of  the  field. 

After  the  action  General  Herkimer  was  taken  to  his  own 
house,  which  is  still  standing,  about  three  miles  east  of  Little 
Falls  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Mohawk  River,  where  his  leg 
was  amputated  nine  days  after  the  battle.  It  is  said  to  have 
been  done  in  the  most  unskilful  manner,  the  leg  having  been 
cut  off  square,  without  allowing  flesh  enough  below  the  bone 
to  form  the  proper  flaps  to  cover  the  wound,  whereby  the  flow 
of  blood  was  with  dif^culty  stanched.  Colonel  Willet  called 
to  see  him  soon  after  the  operation  and  found  him  sitting  up 
in  his  bed,  as  cheerful  as  usual,  smoking  his  pipe.  Hemorrhage 
ensued  and  toward  evening  the  General  became  convinced 
that  his  end  was  near.  He  called  for  his  Bible  and  read  com- 
posedly in  the  presence  of  his  family  and  others  the  thirty- 
eighth  psalm,  applying  the  penitential  confessions  to  his  own 
case.  His  voice  gradually  grew  weaker,  the  book  slipped  from 
his  nerveless  fingers,  and  sinking  back  on  his  pillow  General 
Herkimer,  a  Christian  hero,  died. 

A  description  of  the  Mohawk  Valley  in  1757  is  found  in 
the  documentary  history  of  New  York. 

The  writer  starts  from  Chouegen  (Oswego)  and  follows  the 
Oswego  and  Oneida  rivers  to  Oneida  Lake  thence  through  the 
lake   to    Wood    Creek   which    he    ascends  to   Fort   Bull   and 


430  The  Mohawk  Valley 

thence  across  the  carrying-place  to  Fort  Williams  (Rome)  on 
the  Mohawk  River.  Sailing,  or  rather,  poling,  down  the  river 
he  reaches  Fort  Kouari  (Fort  Herkimer)  on  the  right  or  south 
bank  of  the  river.     This  fort  is  thus  described : 

It  is  a  large  three  story  stone  building  with  port  holes  at  each 
story  and  likewise  in  the  basement  for  cross  firing.  There  are  some 
small  pieces  above.  The  house  is  covered  with  plank  and  shingles. 
It  is  built  as  a  store  and  depot  for  Cheouegn  (Oswego).  It  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  ditch  at  a  distance  of  about  thirty  feet.  This  ditch  is 
six  feet  deep  and  seven  feet  wide.  The  crown  of  the  ditch  is 
planted  with  palisades  in  an  oblique  form,  behind  these  there  is  a 
parapet  of  earth  so  as  to  be  able  to  fire  over  the  palisades.  The 
four  angles  of  this  parapet  which  is  at  the  back  of  the  ditch,  form 
as  it  were  four  little  bastions  that  reciprocally  flank  each  other. 
On  the  west  side  is  a  house  apart  from  the  large  one.  It  backs 
against  the  parapet  of  the  palisades,  and  serves  as  a  barrack  and 
guard  house.  There  are  two  doors  to  the  large  building,  the  one 
on  the  north  is  a  small  swing  door.  The  large  door  of  the  house 
is  on  the  south  side.  Opposite  this  fort  is  a  small  cultivated  island 
which  can  be  reached  at  low  water  by  fording. 

From  Fort  Kouari  to  Fort  Canajoharie  (Indian  Castle)  is 
four  leagues.  The  inhabitants  of  this  country  are  Palatines  or 
Germans.  Fort  Canajoharie  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of 
the  Mohawk  River.  It  is  a  square  of  four  bastions  of  upright 
pickets  joined  with  lintels.  They  are  fifteen  feet  high,  about 
one  foot  square,  with  port  holes  inserted  from  distance  to  dis- 
tance, with  a  stage  all  round  to  fire  from.  The  fort  is  one 
hundred  paces  on  each  side.  It  is  not  surrounded  by  a  ditch. 
There  are  some  small  pieces  of  cannon  at  each  of  its  bastions 
and  a  house  at  each  curtain  to  serve  as  a  store  and  barrack. 
Five  or  six  families  of  Mohawk  Indians  reside  outside  the  fort. 
(This  fort  was  built  in  1756  by  Sir  William  Johnson.  Pre- 
vious to  that  time  there  was  a  block  house  situated  on  a  hill 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  creek.  Indian  Castle  was  the 
home  of  Joseph  Brant  and  King  Hendrick,  and  Molly  Brant 


Oriskany  431 


after  Sir  William  Johnson's  death  until  the  flight  of  the 
Mohawks  to  Canada.  It  is  said  that  Molly  Brant  furnished 
her  brother  with  valuable  information  in  regard  to  General 
Herkimer's  movements  previous  to  the  battle  of  Oriskany. 

The  distance  from  the  above  fort  to  Fort  Hunter  is  about 
twelve  leagues.  About  one  hundred  houses  at  a  greater  or 
less  distance  are  found  within  this  length  of  road.  There  are 
some  situated  about  half  a  league  in  the  interior.  The  in- 
habitants of  this  section  compose  a  militia  company  of  one 
hundred  men.  Fort  Hunter  is  situated  on  the  border  of  the 
Mohawk  River  and  is  of  the  same  form  as  that  of  Canajoharie, 
with  the  exception  that  it  is  twice  as  large.  There  is  a 
church  or  temple  in  the  middle  of  the  fort  (Queen  Anne's 
Chapel). 

From  Fort  Hunter  to  Chenectadi,  or  Corlear,  is  seven 
leagues,  and  twenty  or  thirty  houses  are  found  within  this 
distance.  The  inhabitants  of  this  section  are  Dutch.  They 
form  a  company  with  some  others  on  the  left  bank,  about  one 
hundred  strong. 

Chenectadi  or  Corlear  is  situated  on  the  bank  of  the  river 
and  is  a  village  of  about  three  hundred  houses. 

From  Chenectadi  to  Orange  (Albany)  is  estimated  to  be 
six  or  seven  leagues.  This  is  all  that  relates  to  the  right  or 
south  bank  of  the  Mohawk. 

Beginning  again  at  Fort  Williams,  Rome,  the  record 
describes  the  country  along  the  left  or  north  bank  of  the 
Mohawk:  Leaving  Fort  Williams,  the  village  of  the  Palatines 
is  estimated  to  be  twelve  leagues.  (All  the  country  between 
Little  Falls  and  Rome,  on  both  sides  of  the  Mohawk,  was 
known  as  the  German  Flats  and  was  the  home  of  most  of  the 
Palatines  that  moved  from  Schoharie  Valley  in  1722.  The 
Palatine  village  was  known  as  "  German  Flats,"  and  was 
situated  about  a  half-mile  above  Fort  Kouari  on  the  opposite 


432  The  Mohawk  Valley 

bank,  now  known  as  Herkimer.  During  the  Revolution  a  fort 
was  built  at  Herkimer  and  called  Fort  Dayton.) 

In  1757  the  Palatine  village,  which  consisted  of  thirty 
houses,  was  destroyed  and  burnt  by  a  detachment  of  about 
three  hundred  Indians  and  Frenchmen  under  M.  de  Bellestre. 
The  inhabitants  of  this  village  formed  a  company  of  one  hun- 
dred men  bearing  arms.  Total  population  about  three  hundred 
men,  women,  and  children,  one  hundred  and  two  of  whom 
were  made  prisoners,  and  the  remainder  fled  to  Fort  Kouari, 
except  a  few  who  were  killed  while  fording  the  river. 

From  Palatine  village  to  the  Little  Falls,  still  continuing 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Mohawk,  is  estimated  about  three 
leagues.  In  this  distance,  there  are  but  eight  houses,  which 
have  been  abandoned.  The  portage  at  Little  Falls  is  a  quar- 
ter of  a  league  and  is  passed  with  carts. 

From  the  portage  to  Colonel  Johnson's  mansion  is  twelve 
leagues.  In  the  whole  of  this  distance  the  soil  is  good. 
About  five  hundred  houses  are  erected  at  a  distance  one  from 
the  other.  The  greater  number  of  those  on  the  bank  of  the 
river  are  built  of  stone.  Those  at  a  greater  distance  from  the 
fiver  in  the  interior  are  about  half  a  league  off;  they  are 
the  new  settlements  and  are  built  of  wood. 

(Two  of  these  old  stone  buildings  are  still  to  be  seen  from 
New  York  Central  trains  north  of  the  track,  the  Ehle  house, 
east  of  Fort  Plain,  built  in  1752,  and  the  Frey  house,  west  of 
Palatine  Bridge,  built  in  1739.) 

There  is  not  a  fort  in  the  whole  distance  of  twelve  leagues. 
There  is  but  one  house,  built  of  stone,  that  is  somewhat  forti- 
fied and  surrounded  with  pickets  (the  Frey  house).  The 
inhabitants  are  Germans.  They  form  four  companies  of  one 
hundred  men  each. 

Colonel  Johnson's  mansion  is  situate  on  the  border  of  the 
left  bank  of  the  Mohawk  River;  it  is  three  stories  high  (two 


THE  OLD  PULPIT  IN  THE  CHURCH  AT  GERMAN  FLATS. 


433 


Oriskany  435 

stories  and  attic),  built  of  stone  with  port-holes  and  a  parapet, 
and  flanked  with  four  bastions  on  which  are  some  small  guns. 
In  the  same  yard  on  both  sides  of  the  mansion,  there  are  two 
small  houses;  that  on  the  right  of  the  entrance  is  a  store,  and 
that  on  the  left  is  designed  for  workmen,  negroes,  and  other 
domestics.  The  yard  gate  is  a  heavy  swing  gate  well  ironed ; 
it  is  on  the  Mohawk  River  side;  from  this  gate  to  the  river 
there  is  about  two  hundred  paces  of  level  ground.  (It  is  said 
that  the  buildings  were  enclosed  in  a  stockade  during  the 
French  war.)  A  small  rivulet  coming  from  the  north  empties 
itself  into  the  Mohawk  about  two  hundred  paces  below  the 
enclosure  of  the  yard.  (The  Kayaderos  Creek,  said  to 
have  given  the  name  to  the  famous  patent.)  On  this  stream 
there  is  a  mill  about  fifty  paces  distant  from  the  house,  below 
is  the  miller's  house,  and  on  the  other  side  of  the  creek  one 
hundred  paces  from  the  mill  is  a  barn  in  which  fodder  and 
cattle  are  kept.  One  hundred  and  fifty  paces  from  Colonel 
Johnson's  mansion  at  the  north  side,  on  the  left  (east)  bank 
of  the  little  creek,  is  a  little  hill  on  which  is  a  small  house  with 
port-holes  where  is  ordinarily  kept  a  guard  of  honor  of  some 
twenty  men,  which  serves  also  as  an  advance  post. 

From  Colonel  Johnson's  house  to  Chenectadi  is  counted  as 
seven  leagues.  The  road  is  good,  all  sorts  of  vehicles  pass 
over  it.  About  twenty  houses  are  found  from  point  to  point 
on  this  road. 

The  Mohawk  River  can  be  forded  during  summer  a  league 
and  a  quarter  west  of  Chenectadi.  Opposite  Chenectadi  the 
traverse  is  usually  by  a  ferry-boat  and  bateaux. 

Going  from  Chenectadi  to  the  mouth  of  the  Mohawk  River 
where  it  discharges  into  the  Orange  (Hudson),  there  is  a 
Great  Fall  (Cohoes),  which  prevents  the  passage  of  bateaux,  so 
that  everything  on  the  river  going  from  Chenectadi  to  Orange 
(Albany)  passes   over   the   highroad  that  leads  there  direct. 


436  The  Mohawk  Valley 

In  the  whole  country  of  the  river  Corlear  (Mohawk)  there  were 
nine  companies  of  militia  under  command  of  Colonel  Johnson; 
eight  only  remain,  that  of  the  village  of  the  Palatines  being  no  longer 
in  existence,  the  greater  portion  having  been  defeated  by  M.  de 
Bellestre's  detachment. 

Colonel  Johnson  assembles  these  companies  when  he  has  news 
of  any  expedition  which  may  concern  the  Mohawk  River. 

In  the  latter  part  of  April,  1757,  on  receiving  intelligence  by  the 
savages  that  there  was  a  strong  detachment  ascending  the  river  St. 
Lawrence  and  entering  Lake  Ontario,  he  assembled  these  companies 
and  went  to  the  village  of  the  Palatines  where  he  was  joined  by 
another  body  of  twelve  hundred  men  sent  him  by  the  commandant 
of  Orange;  this  formed  in  all  a  force  of  two  thousand  men.  He 
intrenched  himself  at  the  head  of  the  Palatine  village  where  he 
remained  in  camp  fifteen  days,  and  did  not  retire  until  he  received 
intelligence  that  the  French  detachment  seen  on  the  St.  Lawrence 
River,  had  passed  by  £nd  taken  the  route  to  Belle  Riviere  (Ohio). 

In  1900,  a  century  and  a  half  after  the  above  record  was 
made,  in  company  with  Prof.  J.  A.  Maney,  I  traversed  the 
same  section  of  the  Mohawk,  not  by  bateaux  and  rude  carts, 
but  by  railroad,  in  true  nineteenth-century  style.  The  objec- 
tive point  was  Rome,  in  search  of  data  in  relation  to  the 
battle  of  Oriskany  and  the  siege  of  Fort  Schuyler.  We 
did  not  succeed  in  finding  any  evidence  of  the  fort,  in  fact,  we 
had  some  difficulty  in  finding  any  one  that  had  ever  heard 
of  it.  We  were  finally,  however,  directed  to  its  site,  in 
the  centre  of  the  city  and  near  the  border  of  the  Mohawk 
River.  Nothing  remains  to  mark  the  spot  of  that  heroic  re- 
sistance of  a  handful  of  sturdy  pioneers  who  by  their  valor 
turned  back  to  Canada  the  hordes  of  savages  and  Tories 
under  St.  Leger,  Sir  John  Johnson,  Butler,  and  Joseph  Brant, 
and  thereby  assisted  materially  in  defeating  the  plans  of  Gen- 
eral Burgoyne,  and  thus  led  to  the  surrender  of  the  British 
troops  at  Saratoga. 

A  glance  at  the  map  of  New  York  State  will  show  that  the 


Oriskany  439 

Mohawk  River  rises  just  over  the  border  of  Lewis  County  in 
the  town  of  Lewis  and  under  the  shadow  of  Mohawk  Hill. 
Although  flowing  in  a  southerly  direction  until  it  reaches  the 
vicinity  of  Rome,  like  many  a  mountain  stream  with  its 
numerous  curves  it  seems  to  flow  in  the  direction  of  every 
point  of  the  compass.  West  of  Rome  is  a  small  stream  run- 
ning parallel  with  the  Mohawk  called  Wood  Creek,  distant 
from  the  said  river  about  two  miles.  The  slight  elevation  of 
land  between,  however,  is  sufficient  to  turn  the  waters  of 
Wood  Creek  and  Oneida  Lake  and  through  Oswego  River  to 
Lake  Ontario,  and  thence  to  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  The 
Mohawk  bending  to  the  east  finally  reaches  the  Atlantic 
Ocean  through  the  Hudson  River  and  New  York  Bay. 

There  were  two  routes  for  the  Indians  in  their  birchen 
canoes  to  the  Mohawk  Valley,  one  by  the  way  of  Lake 
Champlain  and  Lake  George,  and  the  other  up  the  St.  Law- 
rence and  around  the  east  coast  of  Lake  Ontario  to  Oswego 
River,  thence  up  the  river  and  Oneida  Lake  to  the  mouth  of  one 
of  its  small  tributaries,  Wood  Creek,  thence  up  Wood  Creek 
to  a  point  two  miles  from  the  present  site  of  the  city  of  Rome 
where  the  canoes  were  carried  across  the  divide  to  the 
Mohawk  River,  and  thence  down  to  the  Hudson. 

When  the  Dutch  established  themselves  in  the  lower  Mo- 
hawk Valley,  hunters  and  traders,  the  courreiir  de  bois  of  the 
Dutch,  used  the  Mohawk  River  and  the  Indian  canoe  to  pen- 
etrate to  the  home  of  the  Iroquois  in  quest  of  game  and  furs. 

As  the  valley  became  settled  by  venturesome  resident 
traders,  supplies  were  transported  to  them  in  canoes  or  fiat- 
boats  which  on  their  return  brought  peltries,  potash,  and  the 
produce  of  their  limited  acres. 

Niagara  or  Onjagara,  as  it  was  called  by  the  Iroquois,  early 
became  an  important  trading  post  with  the  farther  Indians 
both  to  the  English  and  French,  and  the  establishment  of  a 


440  The  Mohawk  Valley 

post  at  Irondequet,  and  the  building  of  a  fort  at  Chouegen 
(Oswego)  in  1725  called  for  improvements  in  the  mode  of 
navigating  the  Mohawk.  Flat-boats  called  bateaux  were 
constructed,  and  propelled  by  paddles,  poles,  and  sail.  But  it 
was  not  until  1792  that  the  Inland  Lock  and  Navigation  Com- 
pany made  any  decided  improvements  in  the  river  bed  and 
carrying-places.  At  that  time  the  channel  was  deepened, 
canals  dug  at  Little  Falls,  and  across  the  carry  between  Wood 
Creek  and  the  Mohawk  River.  I  have  often  thought  that 
this  work  was  probably  the  incentive  to  Governor  Clinton  to 
build  his  "  big  ditch  "  a  quarter  of  a  century  later. 

After  this  long  digression,  we  will  continue  our  journey 
from  Rome,  eastward. 

From  the  very  start  we  found  dif^culty  in  tracing  the 
channel  of  the  river  from  the  windows  of  the  car.  For 
forty-five  miles  the  river  runs  its  tortuous,  erratic  course, 
marked  by  its  borders  of  low  willows  and  occasional  majestic 
elms,  through  the  German  Flats,  or,  until  it  reaches  the 
vicinity  of  Herkimer.  We  were  impressed  with  the  uniform 
width  of  its  channel,  which  has  the  appearance  of  the  Erie 
Canal  before  it  was  enlarged.  In  fact  its  channel  through  the 
German  Flats  seems  to  retain  evidence  of  work  done  by  the 
Inland  Lock  and  Navigation  Company,  For  a  number  of 
miles  we  have  been  steaming  along  the  south  bank  of  the  river, 
but  a  short  distance  east  of  Utica  we  cross  to  the  north  side 
and  so  continue  on  to  our  journey's  end.  (This  is  probably 
the  place  where  Herkimer  crossed  the  Mohawk  with  his  troops 
en  route  for  Fort  Schuyler.) 

A  little  earlier  in  the  day  we  had  left  the  New  York 
Central  at  Oriskany,  en  route  to  the  battle-field  and  the  scene 
of  the  fatal  ambuscade.  A  hurried  departure  from  Rome 
obliged  us  to  leave  the  table  at  the  Stanwix  before  dinner  was 
served,    and    although    our    ruffled   tempers    were    somewhat 


Oriskany  443 

smoothed  by  the  hurried  eating  of  a  sandwich  hurriedly  made, 
we  still  felt  the  need  of  victuals  and  drink.  Although  this 
quiet  little  village  with  its  famous  battle-field  along  its  borders 
could  not  supply  us  with  all  that  we  desired,  we  however  suc- 
ceeded at  last  in  securing  a  vehicle  for  our  two  miles'  ride 
over  the  hills  to  the  fatal  ravine,  and,  with  the  sheriff  of 
Oneida  as  our  guide  and  factotum,  and  with  the  rattle  of 
wagon  spokes  that  kept  time  to  the  beat  of  the  horses'  hoofs, 
followed  nearly  the  same  route  as  Herkimer  and  his  impetu- 
ous soldiers.  The  weather  was  all  that  could  be  desired,  but 
the  landscape  view  was  not  very  inspiring  as  we  were  at 
least  a  mile  away  from  the  range  of  low  hills  that  mark  the 
north  boundary  of  the  valley  and  the  only  evidence  of  the 
Mohawk  River  was  a  line  of  low  bushes  about  three-quarters 
of  a  mile  away,  while  apparently  limitless  miles  of  flat  land 
seemed  to  stretch  away  east  and  west. 

But  it  was  the  ravine  that  was  the  object  of  our  pilgrim- 
age. As  we  neared  the  spot,  the  tall  granite  monument, 
eighty  feet  high,  erected  by  the  Oneida  County  Historical 
Society  in  1876,  met  our  sight  and  marked  the  spot  we  were 
in  search  of.  A  few  minutes  more  and  the  ravine,  the  adja- 
cent hills,  and  the  fatal  morass  were  before  us. 

At  present  the  ravine  is  spanned  by  a  causeway  over  which 
passes  the  main  road  from  Utica  to  Rome.  A  narrow  arch  of 
stone  under  the  causeway  forms  a  passage  for  the  small  creek 
that  produces  the  morass  and  swampy  flats  to  the  north.  A 
narrow  ditch  now  confines  the  stream  and  makes  comparatively 
dry  the  spot  at  the  bottom  of  the  ravine  where  the  corduroy 
road  formerly  crossed,  although  the  western  slope  half-way  to 
the  top,  still  gives  evidence  of  the  marshy  character  of  the  soil. 

Accompanying  this  sketch  are  photographs  of  this  historic 
spot,  which  I  trust  will  enable  the  reader  to  comprehend  the 
locality  of  the  battle-field.     View  No.  i  shows  the  eastern  hill 


/ 


444  The  Mohawk  Valley 

and  slope  to  the  rivulet  below,  which  is  seen  at  the  lower 
right-hand  corner.  On  each  side  of  the  rivulet  is  still  seen 
portions  of  the  old  log  road,  which  marks  the  spot  where  the 
slaughter  of  the  American  troops  was  the  greatest,  as  they 
were  massed  near  the  only  crossing  that  led  through  the  morass. 
See  also  view  No.  2.  At  the  time  of  the  attack  all  of 
the  troops  except  Colonel  Visscher's  Caughnawaga  regiment 
were  in  the  hollow  and  climbing  the  western  slope,  shown  in 
view  No.  3.  The  baggage  wagons  were  yet  toiling  down  the 
eastern  slope  and  Visscher's  men  were  massed  where  the  farm 
buildings  are  seen  at  the  top  of  the  hill.  Both  hills  were  covered 
with  tall  pines,  oaks,  and  maples  while  the  bottom  of  this  little 
valley  was  covered  with  low  trees,  bushes,  and  swamp  grass. 

At  the  present  time  these  hills  and  the  surrounding  country 
are  entirely  cleared  of  the  forest,  and  cultivated  land  is  seen 
in  every  direction.  Even  the  field  where  the  great  struggle 
and  subsequent  victory  took  place  is  now  occupied  by  a 
thrifty  potato  patch. 

On  the  eastern  plateau  is  the  Battle  Monument  and  in  the 
centre  of  the  photograph,  on  the  horizon  line  is  a  black  mark 
that  looks  like  a  crooked  ten-penny  nail.  This  is  a  picture 
of  the  writer,  marking  the  spot  where  formerly  stood  the  tree 
under  which  the  wounded  General  sat  directing  the  battle. 
No.  4  is  a  closer  view  of  the  monument,  and  one  of  the  group 
at  its  base  is  pointing  out  the  fatal  ravine  to  a  party  of  visitors 
who  were  born  and  brought  up  at  the  old  village  of  Whites- 
town,  six  miles  away,  but  were  ignorant  of  the  circumstances 
of  the  battle  or  the  points  of  interest  that  surrounded  us. 
This  is  not  at  all  singular,  but  is  only  another  evidence  of  the 
all-absorbing  spirit  of  the  twentieth  century, — the  living  for 
the  present  and  the  temporal  care  for  the  future,  and  the  will- 
ingness to  leave  the  past  to  aged  dreamers  whose  only 
pleasures,  alas,  may  be  the  dreams  of  earlier  days. 


INDEX 


Abeel,  John,  134 

Abenakas,  4,  182 

Abraham,  Indian,  311  ;  Speech  of,  312 

Academy,  Old,  2S5 

Achawi,  103,  107-111 

Adams,  Sheriff,  82 

Adams,  Dr.  William,  194 

Adirondacks,  14 

Adler,  Isaac,  287 

Adriochten,  22,  24,  26 

Adriuche.   24,  27,  33,  37,  100,  155,  156 

Adriutha,  24,  27,  354 

Adriutha  Falls,  355,  356,  358,  359 

Agassiz,  Prof.  Louis,  363 

Agnierrhonons,  5 

Agniers,  Agnierrhonons,  5,  14,  41,  193 

Akin,   133 

Akin,  Ethan,  137,  145 

Akin,  Theron,   145 

Albany,  2,  4,  19,  20,  24,  28,  37,  50.  58, 
82,  85-87,  99,  114,  122,  134,  159, 
172,  185,  193,  416 

Algonquins,  4,  5,  14,  41,  46,  47,  100, 
138,  275 

Alleforce,  2 

Allen,  lames,  283,  284,  2S7,  288 

Allen,  John  P.,  2S4 

Allet,  Walter,  175 

Amsterdam,  Holland,  20 

Amsterdam,  N.  Y.,  24,  28,  29,   54,  92, 
107,    113,    123,    128,    131,    150,    154, 
167,    175,    194,    26S,    275,    276,    279, 
280,  282-284,  305, 310, 321, 328-330, 
359..  390,  400,  405 
Anansira,  22 
Andagaron,  44 
Andastes,  4 

Andrews,  Rev.  William,  85,  86 
Anna]5olis,  3 
Anormee  Berge,  3 
Anthony's  Nose,  225,  378,  381 
Anticosta  Island,  12 
Aquaduct  at  Little  Falls,  374 
Arnold,   Gen.   Benedict,  221,  290,  325, 
327 


Arnold,  Elisha,  290 

Arnold,  William  II.,  337 

Ashton,  Rev.  R.,  94,  97 

AuriesviUe,   24,  34,  37,  40,  49,  304,  390 


B 


Babbington  Patent,  300 

Bachelor,  Zejjhaniah    194 

Bachelors,  "  Sale  of  Old,"  154 

Ballestre,  M.  de,  432 

Balston,  100 

Barclay,  Rev.  Henry,  113,  309 

Barclay,  Rev.  Thomas,  70,  85,  86 

Barre,  La  Fevre  de,  99 

Battle,  Champlain's,  17 

Battle  Monument,  442 

Bay  of  Quinte,  94,  97,  273 

Bayard,  Henry,  137,  138 

Beacraft,  Benj.,  175,  176,  179 

Bean  Hill,  401 

Beauchamp,  Rev.  W.  M.,  9,  11 

Beaver  Dam  Creek,  325 

Beers's  History  of  Montgomery  County, 

405  ' 

Bell,  Mrs.  James, 
Belle  Riviere,  436 
Bellinger,  Col.  Peter,  41S,  423,  425 
Beukendaal,  65,  66 
Biard,  Pierre,  3,  38 
Birch,  Alfred,  288 
Black  Horse  Tavern,  209,  254 
Blaine,  James  G.,  291 
Bleeker,  John  R.,  400 
Blood  Farm,  2S0 
Bloody  Pond,  261 
Bolton,  Lieut. -Colonel,  213 
Bovee,  Matthew,  290 
Boyd,  Lieut.,  226,  227 
Boulevard  Hotel,  122 
Bradt  House,  72,  73 
Bradt,  Nicholas,  284 
Brakencourt,  Baron  de,  loS 
Brant,  Capt.  Joseph,  94,  118,  175,  iSo, 

19S,    202,    220,    221,    227,    22S,    259, 

260,    273,    376,    3S2,    3S9,    412,    415, 

419,  430,  436 


445 


446 


Index 


Brant  Church,  3S8 

Brant,  Molly,  114,  iiS,   121,   122,    133, 

145,  202,  430,  431 
Brantford,  94,  97 
Bratt  (Bradt),  Abraham  N.,  54 
Breadalbane,  Earl  of,  232 
Brebeuf,  Jean  de,  3S-40 
Breton  fishermen,  i 
Breton  fort,  2 
Broadalbin    (Breadalbane),     232,    276, 

279 
Brockway,  Ephraim,  406 
Bronk,  Jonas,  20 
Bronson  Flats,  167,  175 
Bronson,  George  \V.  J.,  295 
Bronson,  Osias,  290,  294,  295 
Brower,  H.  T.  E.,  186 
Bruyas,  Jacques,  344 
Bull,  Fort,  412 

Burial-ground  at  Wemples,  306 
Burgoyne,   Gen.   John,  411,   412,   416, 

436 
Burke,  Joe,  153 
Burnett,  Governor,  212 
Burtonville,  2S0 
Bute,  Fort,  412 
Butler,  John,  1S5,  1S6,   1S9,   19S,  211- 

214,    219,    220,    227,    228,    262,  415, 

426,  436 
Butler  mansion,  181,  186,  iSS,  191,211 
Butler,  Maria,  219,  300 
Butler  Patent,  194 
Butler,  Thomas,  311 
Butler,    Lieut.    Walter,   Jr.,    1S6,    1S9, 

296,  300 
Butler,  Walter  N.,    122,  211-213.  218- 

222,  225,  226,  22S,  266,  26S,  300 
Butler,  Walter,  Sr.,  186,  189,  212,  218, 

219 
Butler's  Ford,  226 
Buttermilk  Falls,  355,  356 


Cady,  Daniel,  297,  406 

Cady,  Judge  David,  406 

Cady,  Elisha,  406 

Cahaniaga,  34,  193,  344 

Caldwell,  James,  137 

Camberfort,    Geraldus,    155,    156,    159, 

275 
Campbell,  Robert,  325 
Campbell,  Thomas,  272,  273 
Campbell,  William,  218,  221,  225 
Campbells  of  Argyle,  232 
Canada,  14,  20,  46 
Canagera,  23,  29,  37,  29S,  304,  310 
Canajoharie,   222,   225,   259,   266,    352, 

376,  386 


Canajoharie  Castle,  133,  159 

Canajoharie,  Fort,  430,  431 

Canajoharie  Regiment,  420 

Canajorha,  376,  382,  385 

Canajorhees,  3S2,  385,  390 

Canoaroda,  23,  28,  29 

Canowha,  28 

Carenay,  29,  30,  33 

Carriboga,  260 

Cartier,  Jacques,  i,  5,  11-14,  38,  232 

Caughnawaga,  133,  194,  276,  279,  2S2, 

2S3,    321,'  345.    346,   349.   353,    399, 

404,  41 S 
Caughnawaga  Church,  191,  345 
Caughnawaga  Company,  420,  423,  426 
Caughnawaga  Indians,  58,  345 
Cayudutta  Camp,  6,  9-II 
Cayudutta  Creek,  6,  9,  10 
Chalmers,  John,  28S 
Champlain,  Samuel,  2,  5,  11,  14,  38 
Chapel  Furniture,  87  ^ 

Chapin,  Geo.  W.,  6 
Chase,  Charles,  122 
Chase,  Harrison,  305 
Chase,  W.  U.,  164,  168 
Chenectadi,  431,  435 
Cherry  Valley  Massacre,  1S6,  211,  21S, 

221,    222,    225,    228,    231,    265,    300, 

377 
Chickatabutt,    197 
Chippewas,  40 

Chouegen  (Oswego),  429,  440 
Church,  St.  John's,  202 
Church  at  German  Flats, 
Clark,  Gardner,  326 
Clark,  John  M.,  334 
Clark,  Gen.  John  S.,  28-30,  385 
Clark,  "  Puffy,"  341,  342 
Clark,  William  G.,  326 
Claus,  Col.   Daniel,  117,  121-123,  134, 

137,  141.  3".  344 
Claus,  Graven    Noek,  54,  155,  156,  164 
Clinton,  Gen.  James,  185 
Clizbe,  Samuel,  289 
Coats,  Joseph,  337 
Cobb,  Rev.  Sanford  H.,  77 
Coeyman,  Andries,  82 
Cohoes,  49,  435 
Colden,  14 
Coles,  Lewis,  54 

Columbus,  Christopher,  13,  50,  87 
Conewawah,  266 
Conhogohery  Castle,  311 
Conklin,  Hon.  Alfred,  297 
Connell,  William,  338,  340,  342 
Conover,  Catherine,  409 
Converse,  Harriet  Maxwell,  1S2 
Conyne,  Peter,  219,  300 
Corey,  D.  P.,  410 


Index 


447 


Corlear,  21,  61,  70,  431 

Cornbury,  Lord,  156,  214 

Cornljy,  Gov.,  85 

Cornelius,  Broer,  156 

Cornplanters,  134 

Cortez,  Ferdinand,  i,  38 

Covenhoven,  Rooleiffe,  406 

Cox,  Col.  Ebenezer,  41S,  420 

Courcelle,   Gov.,  57,  58,  61,  360 

Cousin,  13 

Couture,  William,  41-43,  46 

Cowilligan  Creek,  28,  54 

Crane,  297 

Cranesville,  37,  113,  133,  156,  157,  159, 

164,  280,  281,  354,  400,  405 
Creek,  Cayudutta,  193,  198,  346,  350 
Creek,    Chuctanunda,    133,    164,     167, 

283,  353,  397,  400,  408 
Creek,  Con-o-wa-da-ga,  3S2,  3S5 
Creek.  Cowilligan,   28 
Creek,  Danascara,  186 
Creek,  Dove,  123,  141,  386 
Creek,  Eva's  Kill,  27,  155,  355 
Creek,  Fish,  46 
Creek.  Juchtanunda,  321 
Creek,  Kayaderos,    128,  133 
Creek,  Lewis,  27,  100,   155,  354,  355 
Creek,  Sandsea,  37 
Creek,  Schoharie,  29,  37,  82-84,  212 
Creek,  West  Canada,  122,  226 
Creek,  Wood,  372,  412,  439,  440 
Creek,  Zandige,  37 
Croghan,  Geo.,  311 
Crosby,  Henry,  399 
Crosby,  William,  399 
Crouse,  David,  342 
Cruikshank,  E.,  218,  219,  228 
Currytown,  222,  26S 
Cuyler,  Ann,  156 

Cuyler,  Hendrick,  24,  156,  164,  356 
Cuyler,  Jacob  C,  134 
Cuyler,  John  C,  134 


D 

Dalrymple,  Sir  John,  232 

Danube,  364,  376 

Davidson,  Dr.  Oliver,  137,  155 

Davies,  James,  194 

Davis,  William,  287 

Dawson,  Henry  B.,  226 

Dayton  Fort,  266,  432 

Dean,  Bethuel,  400 

Dean,  Daniel,  400 

Dean,  James,  400 

Dean,  jehiel,  334 

Dean,  John,  400 

Dean,  Luther  L.,  400 


Deboise,  Col.  Benjamin,  402 

Deboise,  Sarah,  402 

De  Graff,  Claus  Andries,  54 

De  Graff,  Emmanuel,  Capt.,  282,  284 

De  Graff,  Emmanuel  E.,  290 

De  GrafT,  Frederick,  283,  284 

De  Graff  House,  65-67,  69 

De  Graff,  Isaac,  283,  284 

De  Graff,  Jeremiah,  283,  284 

De  Graff,   [ohn,  2S4 

De  Graff,  John,  [r.,  284 

De  Graff,  Nicholas,  283 

De  Graff,  Nicholas  A.,  69 

De  Graffenreid,  Christopher,  78 

Delamater,  Dr.  John,  402,  407 

Delancy,  Gov.  James,  311,  389 

Delancy,  Oliver,  400 

De  Mantet,  61 

De  Moer,  Philip  Philipse,  54 

Dempster,  Rev.  Mr.,  91 

Denonville,  Marquis,  99 

Deseronto,  97 

De  Trieux,  Isaac,  54 

Devendorf,  Charles  A.,  406 

Devendorf,  Dewitt  A.,  88,  306 

Devendorf,  George  S.,  140,  406 

Devendorf,  Dr.  Henry,  315 

De  Wolfe,  Charles,  337 

Dingman,  Jane,  289 

Dongan,  Governor,  156 

Donnacona,  13 

Doty,  Philip,  406 

Douglass,  Mr.,  330 

Downs,  Timothy,  290 

Drumm  House,  237 

Dunning,  George,  325,  326 

Dutch  Boers,  57,  58,  77 

Du  Thet,  Father,  38 


Ehle  House,  382,  384,  432 

Ellison,  Rev.  Mr.,  91 

Enders,  Rev.  Jacob  Henry,  315 

Enders,  Peter  I.,  410 

Ernest,  Fletcher,  400,  403,  404 

Esther,  Queen,  214 


Falls,  South  Chuctanunda,  102 
Faulds,  James,  340 
Feejee  Islands,  293 
Ferguson,  Charles,  400,  404 
Filkins,  Almon,  335 
Fish  Creek,  232 
l''iske,  John,  3,  4 
Flack-Landt,  49 

Florida,  N.  Y.,  54,  118,  131,  163,  279, 
300,  376,  399,  400,  401,  404,  405.  407 


448 


Index 


Florida  Hills,  400,  40S 
Fonclaire,  Jean  Baptist  de,  2oq 
Fonda,  6,  37,   134,  186,  193,  197,  279, 

344.  345.  390 
Fonda  Dowe,  123 
Fondasbush,  209 
Fosmire,  Edward,  346 
Fosmire,  Prank,  340 
Frederic,  Harold    141,  220 
Frederick,  Peer,  406 
Frederick,  Philip,  406 
Fremin,  Father  Jacques,  344 
French,  Joseph,  336 
Frey,  Heinrich,  377 
Frey  House,  378,  380,  3S2,  432 
Frey,  S.  L.,  377,  3S5  _ 
Frontenac,  Gov.   Louis  de   Buade,   58, 

98-100,  107,  108,  112 
Frothingham,  Washington,  117,  345 
Fuller,  Samuel,  139 


Galway,  100,  232,  283,  321,  322,  324,  328 

Gandawaga,  33,  34,  48,  344,  345,  353 

Gansevoort,  Col.  Peter,  415-417,419 

Ganzevoort,  Harmon,  159 

Gardiner,  Charles,  9 

Gardinier,  Capt.  Jacob,  425.  426 

Garrigan,  Denis,  340 

Gaspe,  12 

Gastaldi  map,  3 

Gates,  Gen.  Horatio,  41 1 

German  Flats,  265,  266,  269,  2S1,  431, 

438;  window  at,  119,  364 
Gilbert,  Sir  Humphrey,  2 
Gi-on-gwah-tuh,  214 
Glacier  Action  at  Little  Falls,  363 
Glen,  Captain,  62 
Glen  House,  63 
Glen,  Col.  Jacob,  69 
Glen,  Jacob,  Jr.,  69 
Glencoe  Massacre,  232-239 
Glengarry,  Canada,  230 
Glenville,  100,  316 
Glen-Sanders  House,  126 
Gough,  John  B.,  171 
Goupil,  Rene,  38,  41-44 
Grais,  Chevalier  de,  loS-iio,  112 
Grand  River,  97,  273 
Grand  Scarp,  4 
Great  Falls,  Cohoes,  435 
Great  Fire,  65 
Green  Island,  49 
Green,  Willis,  382,  386 
Greene,  Elijah  P.,  339,  3  |o 
Greene,  Henry  E.,  3^9,  340 
Greene,  Mrs.  W.  K.,  2S7 


Greene,  William   K.,  Junior,  2S9,  329, 

33S,  340 
Greene,  William  K.,   Senior,  329,   333, 

338 
Greenman,  James,  410 
Cirider,  Rufus  A.,  386 
Griffis,  W.  S.,  118,  132-134 
Groot,  Jacob,  28 1 
Groot,  John,  284 
Groot,  Lewis,   27,    133,    156,    160,   281, 

297.  354 
Groot,  Lieut.  Peter,  2S2 
Groot,  Philip,  155,  156,  160,  280 
Groot,  Simon,  281 
Groot  Mill,  162 
Guerin,  Elizabeth,  399 
Guerin,  Maynard,  399 
Guy  Park,  117,  121,  123,  134,  136,  137, 

139,    141,    149,    185,    194,    197,    202, 

276,  408 


H 


Hagaman,  282,  321,  330 
Hagaman,  Joseph,  2S2,  284 
Hagaman,  Nicholas,  284 
Hager,  Captain,  175 
Haines,  Jacob,  175 
Haldiman,  Governor,  228,  268 
Half- Moon,  49 

Hamstraat,  Grietje  Takelse,  172 
Hanyost,  107,  108,  110-112 
Harper,  Lieut.,  176 
Harper,  Col.  John,  137,  225 
Harrison,  Edward,  399,  402 
Harrison,  Phillis,  399,  402 
Hartley,  Robt.  M.,  9,  3S1 
Hawkins,  Sir  John,  2 
Hawley,  Rev.  Gideon,  213 
Heermanse,  Naning,  276 
Helene,  De  Sainte,  61 
Helmer,  Adam,  417 
Hell  Hollow,  163 
Helling,  William,  289 
Hendrick,  Chief,  2ig,  376 
Hendrick,  Fort,  3S5 
Hendrick,  King,  122,  260,  261,  389,430 
Henry,  John  V.,  137,  293 
Henry,  Wilkes,  293 
Herkimer,  432,  440,  443 
Herkimer,  Fort,  266 
Herkimer,  Gen.  Nicholas,  220,  390,  392, 
415-41S,  420,  423,  424,  426,  428, 429, 

431 
Hibernian  F'urnace,  149 
Highlanilers,  Scotch,  230 
Hill,  Mrs.  J.  M.,  94,  97 
Hochelaga,  4,  5,  II-14,  38 
Hoffmans,  34,  37,  53,  65.  167,  181,  316 


Index 


449 


Holland,  Captain,  212 

Hoofe's  (Henrv)  Patent 

Horsford,  Prof.  E.  X.,  2 

Houck,  Jacob,  406 

Houck,  Peter,  406 

Howe,  General,  412 

Howgate,  John,  335,  342 

Hubbs,  Joiin,  163 

Hudson,  Boyd,  gi 

Hudson,  Henry,  2,  4,  49,  53,  275 

Hudson  River,  4,  49,  50,  Si,  100,  107, 
182 

Hunter,  Fort,  33,  34,  37,  38,  50,  70, 
84,  86,  91,  94,  97,  103,  113,  137,  167, 
185,  197,  205,  212,  213, 222,  268, 273, 
275,  299,  303,  310,  311,  314,  385, 
408,  431 

Hunter,  Gov.  Robert,  81,  82,  84,  299 

Huron-Iroquois,  14,  40-42,  47 

Huron,  Lake,  39 

Hyer,  Tom,  341 


I 


Iberville,  de,  61 

Indian  Castle,    159,  376,  378,  3S2,  385, 

3S6,  430 
Indian  Ford,  304 
Indian  Fortification,  11 
Inglis,  Rev.  Mr.,  86 
Ingram,  David,  2 
Inland  Lock  and  Navigation  Co.,  65, 

375,  440 
Irondequet,  440 
Iroquois,  11,  12,  14,  17,  19,  39,  42,  43, 

46-48,  50,  98,  99,  114,  133,  232,  275, 

345 


J 


Janson,  Jacob,  44 

Jeronimus,  21,   24 

Jesuit  Ri'laiions,  360 

Jesuits,  99 

Jogues,  Isaac,  20,  29,  33,  34,  38,  40-48, 

53,  197,   344 

Johnson,  "  brown  Lady,"  iiS,  121 

Johnson,  Caroline,  122 

Johnson,  Charlotte,  122 

Johnson,  Col.  Guy,  117,  121,  123,  134, 
139-141,  219,  265,  273 

Johnson,  Fort,  113,  114,  117,118,  121- 
123,  127-129,  131, 133, 134, 137, 138, 
141-143,  145,  150,  153,  154,  163,  164, 
185,  189,  194,  202,  212,  217,  276, 
280,  281,  300,  408,  419,  423 

Johnson  Hall,  117,  121,  139,  194,  197, 
198,  200,  202,  217,  222.   225 

Johnson,  Sir  John,  113,  117,  118,  134, 
29 


142,    146,    I  So,    198,    205,   206,    213, 
220,    222,    228,    262,    268,    273,    412, 

415.  436 

Johnson,  Mary,  114,  121,  123 

Johnson,  Mount,  113,  133,  141,  1S5,  31 1 

Johnson,  Nancy,  1 14,  121 

Johnson,  R.  Hall,  289 

Johnson,  Sir  William,  19,  46,  73,  86, 
87,  113,  114,  116-118,  121,  123,  127, 
128,  131-134,  140-142,  146,  160, 
162,  185,  189,  193,  194,  197,  200, 
202,  205,  206,  212,  217-219,  225,  228, 
230,  232,  240,  259,  260,  266,  272, 
276,  279,  280,  294,  310,  314,  376, 
382,  385,  389,  400,  430,  431 

Johnson,  Sir  William,  Hotel,   198 

Johnson's  Royal  Greens,  41S,  426 

Johnson's  Settlement  (Warrensbush), 
128,  400 

Johnstown,  6,  g,  ig,  113,  117,  121,  131, 
139,  186,  193,  194,  197,  202,  209, 
212,  222,  225,  231,  232,  240,  271, 
279 

Johnstown  court-house,  216 

Johnstown  jail,  208 

Joncaire,  Lieutenant  Sieur  de,  217 

Joncker,  Jan  Janse,  54 

Jones,  Samuel,  289 

Juchtanunda,  100,  104,  105,  107,  164, 
167,  iSi,  185 


Kane,  Charles,  297 
Kanyeageh,  104,  191,  197 
Kayaderos,  128,  146,  163 
Kayaderosseras,    114,    156,     194,     275, 
^280,  435 

Kellogg,  George,  32S 
Kellogg,  John,  325,  327 
Kellogg,  Lauren,  2S7 
Kellogg,  Lauren,  Sr.,  325,  327,  32S 
Kellogg,  Rev.  Mr.,  205 
Kellogg,  Supplina,  321,  322,  325-327 
Kennedy,  Harvey,  410 
Kennedy,  Henry,  137,  284 
Kinaquarione,  30,  53,  iSi,  1S2,  40S 
Kinderhook,  172 
Kingsborough  Patent,  193,  194 
Kingsland  Grant,  134,  194 
Kirkland,  Rev.  Samuel,  272 
Kleyn,  Johannes,  54 
Kline,  27-29,  33,  344,  356 
Kline,  Oliver  S.,  27 
Kline,  Stephen  H.,  337 
Kline,  William,  2S3,   2S4 
Kline,  William  J.,  309 
Kouri.  Fort,  430-432 
Krin,  Kryn,  the  great  Moliawk,  t^S,  61, 
345 


450 


Index 


Labatie,  Jean,  34,  44 

Lachine  Rapids,  345,   353 

Lacrock  (Lacrois),  29 

Lafayette,  Marquis  de,  22 r,   293 

Laimbier,  (leorge,  39S 

I^ake  Agassiz,  364 

Lake  Champlain,  14,  iS,  19,  37,  41,  42, 

46,  57,  100,  437 
Lake  Erie,  364 
Lake  Featherstonehaugh,  30 
.Lake  George,  37,  42,  46,  114,  194,  205, 

260,  300,  381,  439 
Lake  Huron,  39,  364 
Lake  Iroquois,  14 
Lake  Michigan,  364 
Lake  Oneida,  372,  429,  439 
Lake  Ontario,  108,  363,  364,   372,  436, 

439 
Lake  Otsego,  377 
Lake  Saint  Peter,  41,  42 
Lake  Saint  Sacrament,  46 
Lake  Saratoga,  37,  232 
Lake  Spencer,  364,  371 
Lake  Superior,  364 
Lalande,  47,  48 
Lalemant,  Charles,  38,  39 
Lamberville,  Father  de,  104,  107,    197, 

353 
La  Moyne,  61 
Lansingburg,  172 
La  Prairie,  344 
La  Saussaye,  3 
Lebanon,  Conn.,   260 
Le  Berger,  48 

Legend  of  Mrs.  Charles  Ross,  240-258 
Leisler,  Lieut. -Gov.  Jacob,   229,   299 
Lepper,  Fred,  283 
Lepper,  Jacoli,  123,  124 
Leroy,  Monsieur  de,  412 
Lescarbot,  3,  14 
Lilly  of  the  Mohawks,  346,  353 
Little  Falls,    266,    362-364,    366,   370, 

372,  374,  376,  431.  432,  440 
Little,  Major  John,  194 
Littlejohn,  Rt.  Rev.  A.  N.,  92 
Loft,  Mrs.  John,  273 
Lorrimer,  John,  335 
Lossing,   Benj.  J.,   121,  211,   260,  266 

367 
Lovers'  Leap,  367 
Loyalists,  229,  230 


M 


Maalwyck,  54 
Mabee,  Abraham,  69 
Mabie,  Jan,  house,  73,  75 


Mabie  Patent,  279 

Mabie,  Simon,  54 

Mahaqua  (Maquaas),  5,  21 

Mailor,  James,  341 

Mail'  liam,  341 

Ma'  .p,  3 

Maj         ,,  alter  M.,  280 

Mandeville,  Catherine,  409 

Maney,    Prof.   John   Arthur,   310,    346, 

43C> 
Manhattan,  46 
Manheim,  364 
Manny,  Gabriel,  284,  288 
Manny's  Corners,  284,  2S8 
Marcellus,  Abram,  141 
Mariaville  pond,  29,  30,  33,  360 
Marselis,  Ahasuarus,  284 
Mary's  (Saint),  Church,   177 
Massacre  of  Glencoe,  233-239 
Masse,  Ennemond,  38 
Maxwell,  George,  137 
Maytield,  279 
Medashet,  23 
Megapolensis,  45 
Menendes,  38 

Mercator's  Duisburg  map,  3 
Miles,  Daniel,  137,  284,  290 
Miller,  Cornelius,  287 
Miller,  James  A.,  328 
Miller's  Corners,  399 
Mina,  Gen.  Francis,  405 
Minaville,  304,  401,  403,  405,  406 
Minisink,  271,  273 
Mission  of  the  Martyrs,  47 
Mitchell,  Walter,  340 
Mitchell's  Cave,  381 
Moer,  Philip  Philipse  de,  159 
Mohawks,    5,  12,  14,  19-21,  24,  34,  40, 

44-47,   94,    100,    107,    109,    114,    127, 

12S,  159,  181,  1S2,  193,  212 
Mohawk  Castle,  34,  46,  31 1 
Mohawk  Flats,  155 
Mohawk  Hill,  439 
Mohawk  Valley,  1,4,  5,  19,  20,  34,  38, 

49,   50,   98,   100,  13S,    146,   185,    194, 

211,  222 
Mohicans,  4,  24,  30,  35,  iSi,  182,  197 
Montagnes  Indians,  3,  17 
Montespan,  Madame,  gS 
Montesson,  De,  61 
Montgomery,  117,  279 
Montmagny,  General  Chevalier  de,  46 
Montour,  Andrew,  217 
Montour,  Catherine,  214,  217,  218, 
Montour,  John,   218 
Montour,  Mr.,  217,  311 
Montour,  Rowland,  218 
Montpensier,  Mdlle.,   98 
Montreal,  4,  5,  11-14,  38,  46,  58,  99 


Index 


451 


Moore,  Rev.  Thoroughgood,  85 
Morris,  Abram  V.,  it)4,  168,    171,    172, 

175.  179,  iSo,  2S0 
Morris,  Commodore  Charle      '17 
Morris,  Charles  II.  C.  164, 
Morris,  Francis,  27,    156 
Morris,  Isaac,  171,   180 
Morris,  Mrs.  Isaac,  164,  172,  175 
Morris,  Isaac,  Jr.,  164,  180 
Morris,  James  Stewart,    iSo 
Morris,  John  F.,  164,   180,   39S 
Morris,  Lewis,  iSo 
Morris,  Lewis,  Jr.,  82 
Morris,  Margaret,  180 
Morris,  Tunis,  180 
Moss  Island,  362,  364 
McCleary,  William,  335,  342 
McCowatt,  David,  340 
McCowatt,  Walter  R.,  340 
MacDonald,  Captain,  231 
MacDonald,  John,  339,   340 
Mac  Donalds  of  Glencoe,  232 
McGorck,  James,  137,  297 
McGorck,  Sarah,  137 
MacGregors,  303 
McNally,  James,  341 


N 


Narvaes,  38 

Nave  (Neff),  Adam,  2S4 

Nelliston,  378 

Netherlands,  New,  21 

Nevins,  John,  341 

Newberne,  78 

Newman,  Charles,  354 

Niagara,  221,  222,  26S,  439 

Nicholson,  Colonel  Francis,  Si,  84 

Niskayuna,  49 

Norton,  Levi,  295 

Norumbega,  i,  2,  34 

Nsarcane,  49 


O 


Ogilvie,  Rev.  John,  86 

Oioghi,  24,  43 

Old  stone  kitchen  at  Wemples,  308 

Oneida,  N.  Y.,  21 

Oneidas,  21,  23,  79 

Onekagoncka,  23,  24,  28-30,  33,  356 

Oneougoure,  33,  47,  48 

Onistagrawa,  175 

Onjagara,  439 

Onondaga  Chapel,  84 

Onondaga  silver,  97 

Onondagas.  99,  loS,  344 

Oosterhoadt,  Joseph,  2S7 

Orange,  Fort,  20,  21,  23,  28,  29,  33,  34, 


45,  46,   53i   5S.  f'l,  62,  65,   85,  298, 
360,  431,  435 

Oriskany,  220,  231,  265,  274,  2S2,  411, 

415,  420,  431,  435,  440 
Oriskany  battle-field.  View  No.  i,  422 
Oriskany  battle-field.  View  No.  2,  427 
Oriskany  battle-tleld.  View  No.  3,  437 
Oriskany  monument,  414 
Ormonde,  Dukes  of,  220 
Oronhyatekha,  94 
Ortelius  map,  3 
Os-se-ru-e-non,   20,   29,   33,   34,  43,  45, 

46,  48,  53,  65 
Oswego,  412,  415,  426,  429 
Ottawas,  40 
Ouctanunda  Creek,  321 


Palatine  Bridge,  377,  3S5 

Palatines,    77,    82,    83,    231,    275,    364, 
431,  432,  435 

Paris,  Colonel  Isaac,  41 S,  420 

Parker,  Sergeant,  226,  227 

Parkman,  Francis,  12,  14,  34,  38,  39 

Pattersonville,  30,  299,  360 

Peck,  Tunis,  340 

Peek,  Chris.,  2S4 
I  Peek,  Jacobus,  54 
I    Penobscot  River,  3 

Pentegoet,  3 

Peobles  Island,  49 

Perkins,  William,  330 

Perth,  232,  276,  2S3 

Phillips,  Alexander,  280 

Phillips,  Cornelius,  406 

Phillips,  Hamilton,  280 

Phillips,  Lewis,  131,  406 

Phillips's  Lock,  2S0 

Phillips,  William,  194,  406 

Phillipse,  Philip,  160 

Pierce,  Richard,  2S9 

Pierron,  Father  Francis  de,  344 

Pierson,    Professor  Jonathan,    20,    24, 

.49,  74 
Pinson,  13 
Pizarro,  i 

Plain,  Fort,  266,  432 
Ponce  de  Leon,  38 
Port  Jackson,  92,  159,  405 
Port  Royal,  3 

Potter,  Rt.   Rev.  Bishop,  205 
Praying  Indians,  58,  344,  345 
Pulaski,  Count,  271 
Putnam,  Clara,  117,  iiS 


Q 

Quackenboss,  John,  46 
Quebec,  11,  12,  14,  38 


452 


Index 


Queen  Anne,  Si,  82,  S4 

Queen  Anne's  Chapel,  S4-S7,  91,  92, 
113,  185,  197,  202,  273,  299,  300, 
303,  309,  310,  314.  408,  431 

Queen  Anne's  communion   service,  94, 

96,  97 
Queen  Anne's  parsonage,  89,  137 
Queen's  Fort,  70,  73 
Quentin,  Father,  38 
Quiddar,  19 
Quinte,  Bay  of,  94,  97,  273 


R 


Raleigh,  Sir  Walter,  2 

Randall,  Charlotte,  122 

Randall,  Henry,  122 

Rattlesnakes,  3S2 

Reid,  Edward,  289 

Reid,  Mrs.  Edward,  232 

Reid,  Myron  W.,  9 

Raid,  William,  171,  289,  290 

Rensselaerswyck,  20,  41,  43,  45 

Reynolds,  Marcus  T.,  292,  293,  297 

Ribault,  Jean,  38 

Richelieu,  Fort,  48 

Richelieu  River,  41,  42,  46 

Richmond,  A.  G.,  9,  11,  259,  309 

Roberts,  Benj.,  54 

Roberval,  2 

Rocton,  342 

Rode,  the  Mohawk  chief,  164 

Roger's  Slide,  3S1 

Rome,  N.   Y.,  49,  372,  412,  431,  436, 

439,  440.  443 
Romeyn,  Rev.  Thomas,  404 
Roseboom,  Anthony,   295 
Roseboom,  Garret,  290,  295 
Ross,  Capt.  Charles,  240 
Ross,  Mrs.  Charles,  legend  of,  240-258 
Ross,  George,  2S8 
Ross,  Major,  222,  225,  226,  26S 
Rotterdam,  73,  280 
Royal  grant,  134 


Sacandaga  trail,  69 

Sager,  Frederick,  175 

Sammons,  Thos.,  133 

Sammonsville,  9 

Sand  Flat,  iSi,  349 

Sanford,  John,  330,  333,  334,  336 

Sanford,  Stephen,    2S3,   2S8,   2S9,   333, 

334,  33C'.  337.  339.  34° 
Saratoga,  231,  417,  436 
Saugerties,  77,  Si 
Schanatissa,  30 
Schenectady,  20,  21,  24,  37. '49.  5°.  53. 


58,  61,  65,  66,  69,  70,  73,"  82,  84,  98- 
100,  118,  133,  155,  156T  159,  160, 
163,    172,    175,    212,    275,    2S1,    299, 

345.  359.  410 
Schenectady  map,  152 
.Schenectady  Patent,  24,  172 
Schermerhorn,  Reyer,  54,  300 
Schoharie,  50,  77,  81,  82,  91,  175,  180, 

197,    212,    265,    279,    295,    304,    359, 

360,  431 
Schoo,  49 
Schorie,  82 
Schorowe,  50,  53 
Schuler  family,  403 
Schuler,  George,  2S3,  284 
Schuler,  Lawrence,  402,  404,  406,  407 
Schuyler,  Fort,  220,  262,  267,  274,  411, 

412.  414,  416,  417,  419,  436,  440 
Schuyler,  Han  Yost,  221 
Schuyler,  Jeremiah,  134 
Schuyler,    Peter,    19,   62,   81,   84,    107, 

274,  412 
Schuyler.  Philip,  1S5,  265,  274,  412 
Schuylerville,  412 
Scotch  Highlander,  230 
Scotia  Bridge,  395 
Scott,  Alexander,  288 
Scowton,  Derick,  232 
ScramHng,  376,  377 
Scramling,  Henry,  376 
Senatsycrosy,  23,  29 
Sennekens,  21,  23 
Serviss,  Christian,  406 
Serviss,  George,  406 
Serviss,  Peter,  406 
Seths,  Henry,  176,  179,  iSo 
S'Gaun-ho-ha,  50 
Shepard,  David,  2S9 
Sherburne,  John,  410 
Shuler,  William  S.,  297 
Shuttleworth,  Herbert,  338 
Shuttleworth,  James,   338 
Shuttleworth,  John,  338 
Shuttleworth,  Walter,  338 
Shuttleworth,  William,  338 
Sickarus,  23 
Simms,  Jeptha  R.,  13S,  139,  160,  172, 

175.  209 
Simmons,  Hiram,  340 
Simpson,  John,  337 
Six-bury,  Adam,  283 
Six  Nations,  117,  127 
Slaagboom,  20 
Smith,  Geo.,  137,  146 
Smith,  Elijah,  337 
Smith  &  Wells,  377 
Smith,  William  B.,  335 
Sohanidisse,  30 
Solis  map,  3 


Index 


453 


Soto,  Hernando  de,  38 

Spalt,  Charles,  398 

Spencer,  Thomas,  415,  417 

Sprakers,  378 

St.  Ann's  Church,  SS,  92,  313 

St.  Cieorge's  Church,  70 

St.  Ignatius  Loyola,  38 

St.  John's  Church,  202,  204,  205 

St.  Johnsville,  378 

St.    Leger,  Col.  Barry,  412,  415,  416, 

418,  426,  436 
St.  Lawrence  River,    i,    5,    11,    13,    14, 

38,  41,  46,  47,  104,  345,  363,  436 
St.  Mary's,  Charlton,  176 
St.  Patrick's  Lodge,  200 
St.  Sauveur,  3 
Stadacona,  11-13,  38 
Stairs,  Earl  of,  232 
Staley,  George,  406 
Staley,  Jacob,  406 
Stanton,  Joseph,  410 
Stanton,  Nathan,  406 
Stanwix,  Fort,  274,  412 
Steene,  Raby,  172 
Stevens,  Arent,  193,  31 1 
Stewart,  Duncan,  289 
Stewart,  James,  137-140 
Stone,  W.  L.,  132,  134,  217,  311 
Stoner,  Nicholas,  209,  210 
Stuart,  Rev.  John,  86,  97,  277 
Stuyvesant,  Gov.  Peter,  299,  3S2 
Sugden,  James  T.,  335 
Sullivan,   Gen,    John,    1S5,    217.    21S, 

222,  226,  266 
Sullivan,  Yankee,  34 
Sv\art,  Jasaias,   54 
Swart,  Judge,  179 
Swartout,  Capt.  Abraham,  416 
Sweet,  John,  127 
Sweet,  Spencer,  127 
Swits,  Isaac,  300 
Switzer  Hill,  i86,  211,  212,  219 
Sye-jo-den-a-wadde,  164 
Symonce,  Garret,  84,  219 


Talbot,  Rev.  Mr.,  85 

Tampico,  2 

Tamwarot,  23 

Taylor,  Rev.  John,  137,  321,  327 

Tekakwitha,  Kateri,  104,  197,  355 

Tekakwitha  Spring,  346,   348,  349,  353 

Thayendanegea,  260 

Thayer,  Ezra,  284 

Thomas,  Henry,  288,  289 

Thomas,  William,  289 

Three  Rivers,  41,  46 

Tice,  Gilbert,  194-209 


Tiononderoga,  50,    84,    103,    104,    107, 

185,275,  279,  303,  315 
Ti-o-non-to-guen,  43 
Tobacco  Nations,  40 
Toll,  Carl  Hanson,  54,  156 
Toll,  Daniel,  66 
Tomassen,  William,  23 
Tonnosatton,  23 
Towereune,  53,  181,  182,  408 
Tracy,  M.  de,  57,  58,  360 
Trenton  Falls,  loS 
Trianon,  Anne  de  la  Grange,  98 
Tribes  Hill,  iiS,  1S6,  20g,  212,  2S3 
Trinity  Church,  86,  92 
Troy,  49 

Tryon  County,  206,  228,  229,  279 
Tryon,  Gov.,  279 
Tryon  map,  1S6,  212 
Tullock,  290 
Tusten,  Colonel,   271 

U 

Union  Hall,  209 
Upham,  W'arren,  364 
Urquhart,  Rev.  John,  273 
Utica,  412,  417/443 

V 

Van  Alstyne  House,  278 

Van   Coppernol,  Chas.   Williamse,   54, 

159 
Van  Corlear,  Anthony,  382 
Van  Curler,  Arent,  19,  20,  21,   23,  28, 

29-  30,  33.  37,  44,  53,  65,  298,  304, 
^310,  359^ 
Van  Curler's  Journal,  19 
Van  den  Bergh,  Cornelius,  172 
Vanderdonk  map,  29,  30,  33,  360 
^'an  Derveer,  Catherine,  410 
Van  Derveer,  Cornelius  Janse,  409 
\'^an  Derveer,  Dominicus,  409 
Van  Derveer,  Emily,  410 
Van  Derveer,  Garret,  409 
Van  Derveer,  Helena,  410 
Van  Derveer,  Hendrick,  409 
Van  Derveer,  Henry,  410 
Van  Derveer,  Jane,  410 
Van  Derveer,  John,  400,  406,  408-410 
\'an  Derveer,  j.  Watts,  410 
Van  Derveer,  Sarah,  410 
\'an  Derveer,  Theodore  B.,  306,  309 
Van  I  )erveer,  Tunis,  409 
Van  Derveer,  Tunis  I.,  327,  410 
Vandreuil,  M.  de,  217 
Van  Epps,  Johannes,    156 
Van  Epps,  Percy  N..  381 
Van  Home,  C.  F.,  381 
\'an  Home,  lanics,  118 


454 


Index 


Van  Olinda,  Jacob,  159 

Van    Olinda,     Pieter,     54,     156,     159, 

160 
Van  Patten,  Arent,  S4,  299 
Van  Rensselaer,  General,  267 
Van  Rensselaer,  Killian,  20,  53 
Van  Schaicks  Island,  49 
Van  Schaicks,  John  J.,  137 
Van  Slyke,  Cornelius   Antonisse,  156 
Van  Slyke,  Hilletie,  156,   169 
Van  Slyke,  Jacques  Cornelius,  54,  156, 

172,  299,  3S6 
Van  Slyke  Lea,  156 
Van  Slyke,  Martin,  156 
Van  Vorst,  Dirck,  66,  69 
Vanwormer,  Peter,   2S2 
Vedder,  Albert  H.,  137,  2S4,  333 
Vedder  Grist  Mill,  1S5 
Vedder,  Harmon,  2S7 
Vedder,  Isaac,  283,  2S7 
Vedder,  Nicholas,  410 
Vedder,  Volkert,  2S7 
Veddersburg,  2S3,   2S4,  333,  405 
Verrazano,  2 

Viele,  Petier  Cornelius,  54 
Visscher,  Colonel  John,  41 S,  420,  423, 

.444 
Visscher's  map,  360 
Voorhees,  Elizabeth,  292-294 
Voorhees,  George  M.,  290 
Voorhees,  James,  315 
Voorhees,  Dr.  Samuel,  292-294 
Voorhees,  Stephen,  290,  293 
Vrooman,  Abram,  175,  179,   180 
Vrooman,  Adam,  62,  82,  163,  164,  172, 

179, iSo 
Vrooman,  Barant,  84,  172,  299 
Vrooman,  Lieut.  Ephraim,  175,  176 
Vrooman,  Mrs.  Ephraim,  176,  179 
Vrooman,  Harmanus,  175 
Vrooman.  Hendrick,  84,  299 
Vrooman,  Hendrick  Meese,  172,   iSo 
Vrooman,  Jacob,  172 
Vrooman,  Jan,  172 
Vrooman,  Jane,  172,  180 
Vrooman,  John,  180 
Vrooman,  Pieter,  54,  172,  175,  180 
Vrooman,  Simon,  179 
Vrooman,  Captain  Tunis,  175,  176 
Vrooman,  Wouter,  172 
Vyoge  (Oioghi),  2t,  24 

W 

\Vade,  Farrel,   21S 

Wade,  James,  337 

Wallin,  Samuel,  340 

Walworth,  Rev.  C.  A.,  maj),  346 


Walworth,  Ellen  H.,  385 

Ward,  Fountain,  340 

Ward,  Samuel,  340 

Warren,  Sir  Peter,  113,  128,    131,   132, 

162,  212,  279,  2S0,  399,  400 
Warrensbush,  1 13,  128,  132,    1S5,   222, 

265,  268,  400,  405 
Warrentown,  Ireland,  2S0 
Warwick,  Earl  of,  261 
Washington,  George,  117,  134 
Waterford,  49 
Waterman,  Asa,  406 
Watson,  Chas.,  175 
Watts,  Mary,  118 
Watts,  Mayor,  418,  426 
Watts,  John,  410 
Webb,  General,  412 
Weed,  Thurlow,  296 
Weisenburg,  Catherine,  113,    118,    121, 

122,  131,  134,  146,  160,   205 
Wells,  Edward,  225 
Wells,  Eleazer,  225 
Wells,  Mrs.  John  E.,  200 
Wemp  (Wemple),  Jan,  219,  385,  3S6 
Wemple,  Parent,  299 
Wemple,  Cornelius,  Mrs.,  303 
Wemple,  Emory,  303,  305 
Wemple,  Ephraim,  300,  303 
Wemple,  Gilbert,  303,  304 
Wemple,  Isaac,  300 
Wemple,  Jan,  84,  299,  303,  404 
Wemple,  Jan  Barentse,  29S,  299,  309 
Wemple,  John,  Jr.,  300 
Wemple,  .\Iyndert,  284,  299 
Wetdashet,  29,  37 
Wheelock,  Dr.,  260 
Whittier,  John  G.,  2 
Wilde,  Obediah,  141 
Willegen,  Vlachte,  156,  160 
Willet,   Col.    Marinus,    222,    225,    226, 

26S,  271,  415,  42S 
Williams,  Chas.,  279 
Williams.  Fort,  430,  431 
Willow  Flat,  156,  159,  160,  167 
Wilmot,  Anne,  399 
Wilson  and  Abeel  Patent,  12S,  134 
Wilson,  Ebenezer,  134 
Wilson,  Henry,  191 
Wilson,  James,  134 
Wilson,  Gen.  James  Grant,  21 
Wilson,  Miss  Margaret,  1S9,  191 
Wolf  Hollow,  315,  318 
Wood  Creek,  429,  439,  440 
Wood,  Mayor,  272 
Wormwood,  Lieut.,  262 
Wright,  William,  330 
Wynne,  Father  J.,  344 
Wyoming,  21 1,  213,  217,  218,  231,  265, 

273 


Index 


455 


Yankee  Hill,  400 
Yankee  Sullivan,  34 
Yankee  Street,  405 
Yantaputchaberg,  30 
Yaunney's  garden,  310 
Yost    Peter,   194 


Young,  Almarin,  137 
Young,  Almarin  T.,  142 
Young,  Peter,  194,  406 
Young,  William,  406 
Younglove  Homestead,  209 

Z 

Zeh,  Magdalena,  S2 


BOOKS   FOR  THE  COUNTRY 


AMONG   THE   MOTHS   AND    BUTTERFLIES 

By  Jui^iA   r.  Bai,i.ard.     Illustrated.     S  ,  ^1.50. 

"The  book,  which  is  handsomely  illustrated,  is  designed  for  young  readers,  relating 
some  of  the  most  curious  facts  of  natural  history  in  a  singularly  pleasant  and  instructive 
manner." — JV.  Y.  Tribune 

BIRD   STUDIES 

An  account  of  the  Land  Birds  of  Eastern  North  America.     By  WmiAM 

E.   D.  Scott.      With  166  illustrations   from   original   photographs.      Quarto, 

leather  back,  gilt  top,  in  a  box,  net,  $5.00. 

"  A  book  of  first  class  importance.  .  .  .  Mr.  Scott  has  been  a  field  naturalist  for  up- 
wards of  thirty  years,  and  few  persons  have  a  more  intimate  acquaintance  than  he  with  bird 
life.  His  work  will  take  high  rank  for  scientific  accuracy  and  we  trust  it  may  prove  success- 
ful."— London  Speaker. 


WILD    FLOWERS  OF   THE   NORTHEASTERN    STATES 

Drawn  and  carefully  described,  from  life,  without  undue  use  of  scientific 

nomenclature,  by  E1.1-EX  Mii,i.ER  and  Margaret  C.  Whiting.     With  308 

illustrations  the  size  of  life,  and  Frontispiece.     New  edition  in  smaller  form. 

8°,  ncl,  I3.00. 

"The  authors  of  this  excellent  work  offer  it,  not  in  competition  with  scientific  botanies, 
but  with  the  hope  that  by  their  drawings  and  descriptions  they  :nay  make  it  easy  to  become 
acquainted  with  the  wild  flowers  cf  the  northeastern  portion  oi  the  United  States.  Anybody 
who  can  read  English  can  use  the  work  and  make  his  identifications,  and,  in  the  case  of  some 
of  the  flowers,  the  drawings  alone  furnish  all  that  is  necessary.  .  .  .  The  descriptions  are 
as  good  of  their  kind  as  the  drawings  are  of  theirs." — N.  }'.  Times. 


THE   SHRUBS   OF   NORTHEASTERN    AMERICA 

By  Charles  S.  Newhali..     Fully  illustrated.     8°,  51.75. 

"  This  volume  is  beautifully  printed  on  beautiful  paper,  and  has  a  list  of  116  illustrations 
calculated  to  explain  the  text.  It  has  a  mine  of  precious  information,  such  as  is  seldom 
gathered  within  the  covers  of  such  a  volume.'' — Baltimore  Parmer. 

THE   VINES    OF   NORTHEASTERN  AMERICA 

By  Charles  vS.  Newhai.1..     Fully  illustrated.     8°,  ^1.75. 

"The  work  is  that  of  the  true  scientist,  artistically  presented  in  a  popular  form  to  an 
appreciative  class  of  readers." — The  Churchman. 

THE   TREES   OF    NORTHEASTERN    AMERICA 

By  Charles  S.  Newhall.  With  illustrations  made  from  tracings  of  the 
leaves  of  the  various  trees.     8°,  11.75. 

"We  believe  this  is  the  most  complete  and  handsome  volume  of  its  kind,  and  on  account 
of  its  completeness  and  the  readiness  with  which  it  imparts  information  that  everybody  needs 
and  few  possess,  it  is  invaluable."  —Binghamton  Republican. 

THE  LEAF  COLLECTOR'S  HANDBOOK  AND  HERBARIUM 

An  aid  in  the  preservation  and  in  the  classification  of  specimen  leaves  of 

the  trees  of  Northeastern  America.     By  Charles  S.  Newhall.     Illustrated. 

8°,  $2.00. 

"Theideaof  the  book  is  so  good  and  so  simple  as  to  recommend  itself  at  a  glance  to 
everj'body  who  cares  to  know  our  trees  or  to  make  for  any  purpose  a  collection  of  their  leaves  " 
—N.  Y.  Critic. 


Q.  P.  PUTNAM'S  SONS,  27  «&  29  West  23d  St.,  New  York 


BOOKS   FOR  THE   COUNTRY 

NATURE   STUDIES   IN    BERKSHIRE 

By  John  Coi^Eman  Adams.     With  i6  illustrations  iu  photogravure  from 

original  photographs  by  Arthur  Scott.     Photogravure  edition.     8°,  gilt  top, 

I4.50.     Popular  edition.     Illustrated.     $2.50. 

"  The  spirit  of  the  region  is  very  happily  caught  by  the  author,  who  is  fond  of  outdoors, 
and  a  sympathetic  chronicler  of  the  events  of  field  and  woodland.  .  .  .  The  pictures  in  the 
book  are  very  fine  indeed.  .  .  .  The  style  of  the  narrative  is  clear  and  unaffected,  and  the 
book  is  one  that  will  not  easily  be  relinquishea  when  once  taken  in  hand.  The  book  is 
attractive  and  sumptuous,  a  credit  to  the  printer's  art."  — Chicago  Evening  Post. 

LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 

Notes  and  Suggestions  on  Lawns  and  Lawn-Planting,  Laying  out  and  Ar- 
rangement of  Country  Places,  Large  and  Small  Parks,  Cemetery  Plots,  and 
Railway-Station  Lawns  ;  Deciduous  and  Evergreen  Trees  and  Shrubs,  The 
Hardy  Border,  Bedding  Plants,  Rock  work,  etc.  By  SamuEi,  Parsons,  Jr.,  Ex- 
Superintendent  of  Parks,  New  York  City.  With  nearly  200  illustrations. 
Large  8°,  I3.50. 

"  Mr.  Parsons  proves  himself  a  master  of  his  art  as  a  landscape  gardener,  and  this  superb 
book  should  be  studied  by  all  who  are  concerned  in  the  making  of  parks  in  other  cities," — 
J%iladelphia  Bulletin. 

LAWNS    AND   GARDENS 

How  to  Beautify  the  Home  Lot,  the  Pleasure  Ground,  and  Garden.  By 
N.  JoNSSON-RoSE,  of  the  Department  of  Public  Parks,  New  York  City.  With 
172  plans  and  illustrations.     Large  8°,  gilt  top,  fe.50. 

"Mr.  Jcinsson-Rose  has  prepared  a  treatise  which  will  prove  of  genuine  value  to  the  large 
and  increasing  number  of  those  who  take  a  personal  interest  in  their  home  grounds.  It  does 
not  aim  above  the  intelligence  or  jesthetic  sense  of  the  ordinary  American  citizen  who  has 
never  given  any  thought  to  planting  and  to  whom  some  of  the  profounder  principles  of  gar- 
den-art make  no  convincing  appeal."— ^arrf^^  and  Forest. 

ORNAMENTAL   SHRUBS 

For  Garden,  Lawn,  and  Park  Planting.  With  an  Account  of  the  Origin, 
Capabilities,  and  Adaptations  of  the  Numerous  Species  and  Varities,  Native  and 
Foreign,  and  Especially  of  the  New  and  Rare  Sorts,  Suited  to  Cultivation  in  the 
United  States.     By  Lucius  D.  Davis.     With  over  100  illustrations.     8°,  fo.So. 

"Mr.  Davis  writes  with  authority  upon  his  chosen  theme.  .  ,  .  The  book  is  full  of 
information  upon  the  subject  of  which  it  treats,  and  contains  many  suggestions  that  may 
prove  helpful."— iV.  Y.  Times. 

THE   WONDERS   OF   PLANT   LIFE 

By  Mrs.  S.  B.  HerRick.     Fully  illustrated.     16°,  |;i.5o. 

The  only  thing  aimed  at  is  to  give  the  more  important  types  in  a  popular 
way,  avoiding  technicalities  where  ordinary  language  could  be  substituted,  and, 
where  it  could  not,  giving  clear  explanations  of  the  terms. 

"  .\  dainty  volume  .  .  .  opens  up  a  whole  world  of  fascination  .  .  .  full  of  infor- 
mation . ' '  — Boston  A  dvertiser. 

OUR    INSECT    FRIENDS    AND    FOES 

How  to  Collect,  Preserve  and  Study  Then:.     By  Bei,i<E  S.  Cragin.      With 

over  250  illustrations.     8°,  |i.75. 

"  Although  primarily  intended  for  boys  and  girls,  it  can  hardly  fail  to  enlist  the  aid  of 
the  older  members  of  the  family  ;  and  for  the  amateur  collector  of  all  ages  who  has  all  the 
requisite  enthusiasm  but  lacks  a  practical  knowledge  of  the  art  of  preserving  specimens,  it 
should  receive  a  warm  welcome." — N.  Y.  Commercial  Advertiser. 


Q.  P.  PUTNAM'S  SONS,  27  &  29  West  23d  St.,  New  York 


Historic  Towns  of  the  Southern  States 

Edited  by  LyiMAN  P.  Powell.  W'ith  introduction  bv 
W.  P.  Trent.  With  about  175  illustrations.  Large 
8°,  gilt  top //,  /  >.3  00 

Contents  :  Baltimore,  By  St.  George  L.  Sioussat  ;  Annapolis 
and  Frederick,  Ijy  Sara  Andrew  Shafer  ;  Washington,  liy  F.  A. 
Vanderlip  ;  Richmond,  by  William  Wirt  Henry  ;  Williamsburor^ 
by  Lyon  G.  Tyler  ;  Wilmington,  N.  C,  by  J.  B.  Cheshire  ; 
Charlestown,  by  Yates  Snowden  ;  Savannah,  l)y  Pleasant  A. 
Stoval  ;  St.  Augustine,  by  G.  R.  Fairbanks  ;  Mobile,  by  Peter 
J.  Hamilton  ;  Montgomery,  by  George  Petrie  ;  New  Orleans, 
by  Grace  King  ;  Vicksburg,  by  H.  F.  Simrall  ;  Knoxville,  by 
Joshua  W.  Caldwell  ;  Nashville,  by  Gates  P.  Thruston  ;  Louis- 
ville, by  Lucien  V.  Rule  ;   Little  Rock,  by  George  B.  Rose. 

"  Thi-j  very  charming  volume  is  so  exquisitely  gotten  up,  the  scheme  is  so 
perfect,  the  seventeen  writers  have  done  their  work  with  such  historical  acc.iracy 
and  with  such  literary  skill,  the  illustrations  are  so  abundant  and  so  artistic,  that 
all  must  rejoice  that  Mr.  Poweli  ever  attempted  to  make  the  historical  pilgrim- 
ages."— Journal  of  EdticatJou. 


Historic  Towns  of  the  Western  States 

Edited  by  Lyman  P.  Powell.  With  introduction  by 
R.  G.  Thv/aites.  With  218  illustrations.  Large  8°, 
gilt  top.      (By  mail  $3.25)  .  .  .  «^/  $3  00 

Contents  :  Detroit,  by  Silas  Farmer  ;  Chicago,  by  Hon.  Lyman 
T.  Gage  ;  St.  Louis,  by  F.  M.  Crunden  ;  Monterey,  by  Harold 
Bake;  San  Francisco,  by  Edwin  .\Iarkham ;  Portland,  by  Rev. 
Thomas  L.  Cole  ;  Madison,  by  Prof.  R.  G.  Thwaites  ;  Kansas 
City,  by  Charles  S.  Gleed  ;  Cleveland,  I'y  President  Charles  F. 
Thwing;  Cincinnati,  by  Hon.  M.  E.  Ailes  ;  Marietta,  by  Muriel 
C.  Dyar  ;  Des  Moines,  by  Dr.  F.  \.  Herriot  ;  Indianapolis,  by 
Hon.  Perry  S.  Heath;  Denver,  by  J.  C.  Dana;  Omaha,  by  Dr. 
Victor  Rosewater  ;  Los  Angeles,  by  Florence  E.  W'inslow  ;  Salt 
Lake  City,  by  i'rof.  James  E.  Talmage  ;  Minneapolis  and  St. 
Paul,  by  Hon.  Charles  15.  Elliott  ;  Santa  Fe,  by  Dr.  F.  \V. 
Ilo'lge;  Vincennes,  by  W.  II.  Smith. 


a.  p.  PUTNAM'S  SONS,    New  York  and  London 


Amcrtcau  Bistoric  Toxins 


^VV^^V^iV        ^. 


Historic  Towns  of  New  England 

Edited  by  Lyman  P.   Powell.      With  introduction  by 

George  P.  Morris.    With  i6i  iUustrations.     Large 

8°,  gilt  top         .....  net  $3  00 

Contents  :    Portland,   by  Samuel  T.   Pickard  ;   Rutland,   by 

Edwin   D.    Mead  ;  Salem,  by   George   D.    Latimer  ;    Boston,    by 

Thomas  Wentworth  Higginson  ;   Cambridge,  by  Samuel  A.  Eliot ; 

Concord,  by  Frank  A.   Sanborn  ;   Plymouth,   by   Ellen  Watson  ; 

Cape    Cod   Towns,    by    Katharine    Lee    Bates  ;    Deerfield,   by 

George  Sheldon  ;  Newport,  by  Susan  Coolidge  ;  Providence,  by 

William     B.    Weeden  ;   Hartford,     by     Mary     K.    Talcott  ;    New 

Haven,  by  Frederick   Hull  Cogswell. 

"  These  monographs  have  permanent  literary  and  historical  value.  They 
are  from  the  pens  of  authors  who  are  saturated  with  their  themes,  and  do  not 
write  to  order,  but  con  amn-'.  The  beautiful  letterpress  adds  greatly  to  the 
attractiveness  of  the  book." — The  IVatckinan. 

"  The  authors  of  the  Boston  papers  have  succeeded  in  presenting  a  wonderfully 
interesting  account  in  which  none  of  the  more  important  events  have  been 
omitted.  .  .  .  the  quaint  Cape  Cod  towns  that  have  clung  tenaciously  to 
their  old-fashioned  ways  are  described  with  a  characteristic  vividness  by  Miss 
Bafes.  .  .  .  The  other  papers  are  presented  in  a  delightfully  attractive 
manner  that  will  serve  to  m  ike  more  deeply  cherished  the  memory  of  the  places 
described." — New  York  Thn:s. 


Historic  Towns  of  the  Middle  States 

Edited  by  Lyman  P.  Powell.      With   introduction  by 
Dr.  Albert  Shaw.     With  135  iUustrations.     Large 

8°,  gilt  top net  $3  00 

Contents  :  Albany,  by  W,  W.  Battershall  ;  Saratoga,  by 
Ellen  H.  Walworth  ;  Schenectady,  by  Judson  S.  I.andon  ;  New- 
burgh,  by  Adelaide  Skeel  ;  Tarrytown,  by  H.  W.  Mabie  ;  Brook- 
lyn, by  Harrington  Putnam  ;  New  York,  by  J.  B.  Gilder  ;  Buffalo, 
by  Rowland  B.  Mahany  ;  Pittsburgh,  by  S.  H.  Church  ;  Phila- 
delphia, by  Talcott  Williams;  Princeton,  by  W.  M.  Sloane ; 
Wilmington,  by  E.  X.  Vallandigham. 

"  Mr.  Powell's  contributors  hive  prepared  a  most  interesting  collection  of 
p-'p:^rs  on  important  landmari<s  of  the  Middle  States.  The  writers  enter  into  the 
history  of  their  respective  towns  with  much  elaborateness." — N.  )'.  Tribune. 


Q.  P.  PUTNAM'S  SONS,  New  York  and  London 


P^ 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 

Los  Angeles 
This  book  is  DUE  on  the  last  date  stamped  below. 


JUH231976. 
r\\  SEP  2  7 19T6 


URL   FFR     7  iqyq 


LD 

URL    J  =  -*    i  (    iJ/u 
INTERLIBRARY  LOANS 

OCT  (]G  1978 

DUE  WO  WEEKj-?lSGN)W?GEf^RfeL 

a.b.L;^.^wnv«,f  0  1978 


|PR  2d19ai 


I 


Form  L:»-Scrics  444 


/O 


^ 


3  1158  00031    5142 


F 
127 

M55R2 


,fgpi 


